drtrap Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share #661 Posted November 24, 2014 Now I realize that it's important for the fore (anterior) shrouds to be served for protection against wear... Is this a basic rule for all the masts (including the mizzen mast)? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share #662 Posted November 26, 2014 (edited) This is true...this photo tells all the story. Only the anterior half pair of the foremast shrouds illustrated as served. Should I serve the same way the mainmast and mizzenmast shrouds? I'm searching my naval literature with no result till now... Edited November 26, 2014 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted November 26, 2014 Share #663 Posted November 26, 2014 Looks like every shroud is served to just above the futtock stave with the anterior shroud serving extending to below the stave. drtrap and mort stoll 2 Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share #664 Posted November 26, 2014 Looks like every shroud is served to just above the futtock stave with the anterior shroud serving extending to below the stave. That was my quetion Jim. Now, I believe I must serve the entire length of the anterior shroud.... I'm not sure what;s the rule for the anterior shroud of the mizzen mast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egkb Posted November 26, 2014 Share #665 Posted November 26, 2014 Not sure if this helps guys but it is my understanding that the Fore Most Shrouds are served over their full or almost full length to protect them from chafe as a result of rubbing by the Square Sail on that particular mast.. so probably not on the Mizzen Mast as (I think!!) there is usually no sail set there (I'm referring to the lower shrouds of course) Hope this may be of some help. Eamonn mort stoll, drtrap and Beef Wellington 3 Quote Current Build : HM Schooner Ballahoo In the Pipeline : HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is..🙄 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted November 26, 2014 Share #666 Posted November 26, 2014 Stergios - Yes, in reality they probably were served, I'm guessing like Eamonn, with the exception of the mizzen because there was no lower sail. However....you need to make a decision about how far you want to go with the serving. I didn't serve any of the shrouds that were .75mm diameter or smaller for two reasons, it gets to be a pain to serve properly on the smaller line, and the result (in my opinion) starts to look a little out scale as the line looks noticeably thicker (which it wouldn't at full scale) As always, the only clear thing is that there is no clear answer! drtrap and egkb 2 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share #667 Posted November 26, 2014 (edited) Thank you mates for your feedback. Jason, I don't want to go so far away with the serving. That's why I'll try to serve only the anterior shrouds of the foremast and mainmast which are 1mm in diameter. Cheers. Stergios Edited November 26, 2014 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted December 7, 2014 Author Share #668 Posted December 7, 2014 A lot of testing before the final approach to the mizen mast shrouds. Hypo gs cement glue is a more clear and clean adhesive util than cyano or pva, but a little touch up is needed to avoid some shinny spots from the cyano stabilizer of the hangman knots. mort stoll, egkb and jim_smits 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted December 7, 2014 Author Share #669 Posted December 7, 2014 The second jig was more stable and usefull, to me... egkb and msberkman 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted December 8, 2014 Share #670 Posted December 8, 2014 Looking great, very interesting jig idea. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share #671 Posted December 8, 2014 Looking great, very interesting jig idea. That's right, especially for those 3,5 deadeyes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitzilla Posted December 20, 2014 Share #672 Posted December 20, 2014 (edited) Quick question this kit. I noticed neither the instructions nor the plans mention anything about bearding or rabbet lines with this kit. Did you bother to cut and shape these lines, or was it not needed because this kit is coppered and will hide any imperfections where the strakes meet the keel? Edit: And to tack on another question, I was inventorying parts and was curious about the parrel ribs. It says they are cast parts, but it looks like the ones I received were brass photo-etch? Is that correct, the same sort of thing that came with your kit? It also says I should've got 30, but there's just a single fret with 12. Edited January 4, 2015 by Kevin M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share #673 Posted January 6, 2015 Quick question this kit. I noticed neither the instructions nor the plans mention anything about bearding or rabbet lines with this kit. Did you bother to cut and shape these lines, or was it not needed because this kit is coppered and will hide any imperfections where the strakes meet the keel? Edit: And to tack on another question, I was inventorying parts and was curious about the parrel ribs. It says they are cast parts, but it looks like the ones I received were brass photo-etch? Is that correct, the same sort of thing that came with your kit? It also says I should've got 30, but there's just a single fret with 12. Hi Kevin Instructions and plans are so poor in understanding all the steps. I cut and shaped those lines just to become more familiar with those procedures but I think that even with the coppered layer, bearding and rabbet lines were needed to demonstrate the right shape and curvarure of the hull and keel respectively. Thanks Dimitris71 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitzilla Posted January 7, 2015 Share #674 Posted January 7, 2015 Hi Kevin Instructions and plans are so poor in understanding all the steps. I cut and shaped those lines just to become more familiar with those procedures but I think that even with the coppered layer, bearding and rabbet lines were needed to demonstrate the right shape and curvarure of the hull and keel respectively. Thanks Thanks for the info. I'd done some more research in the meantime, and this was the conclusion that I came to as well. I think I'll head out to the hardware store this weekend and pick up a little butt chisel to help with shaving the bearding line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted January 7, 2015 Share #675 Posted January 7, 2015 Kevin - I used a simple exacto blade to do the rabbet which worked just fine and pretty easily into plywood. I found on my 'Jason' build that the plywood does not hold the shape anywhere near as well as using solid wood so that is probably a factor as well. I think unless you are doing a single planked admiralty model you'll do just fine doing something simple. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share #676 Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) A lot of testing before the final approach to the mizen mast shrouds. Hypo gs cement glue is a more clear and clean adhesive util than cyano or pva, but a little touch up is needed to avoid some shinny spots from the cyano stabilizer of the hangman knots. Hi mates, even I'm late wish to all of you a Happy and Healthy New Year!! I think that I'm out of scale with these testing laynards, so I'd like to ask you what size of rope do u use for the laynards as the best indicated ratio for the deadeyes and shrouds? Thanks in advance. Stergios Edited January 21, 2015 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted January 21, 2015 Share #677 Posted January 21, 2015 Hi mates, even I'm late wish to all of you a Happy and Healthy New Year!! I think that I'm out of scale with these testing laynards, so I'd like to ask you what size of rope do u use for the laynards as the best indicated ratio for the deadeyes and shrouds? Thanks in advance. Stergios I think I used 0.5mm thread for the deadeye lanyards. Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuntherMT Posted January 21, 2015 Share #678 Posted January 21, 2015 I think that I'm out of scale with these testing laynards, so I'd like to ask you what size of rope do u use for the laynards as the best indicated ratio for the deadeyes and shrouds? Thanks in advance. Stergios Stergios, On the Carmen I looked at all the pictures of actual ships (real or reproductions) I could find with Google image search, and then used the highly scientific method of "the size that looked good to me" based on the relationship of the shroud size vs. lanyards based on all the photo's I'd looked at. At the end of the day, nobody is going to be measuring your line, so if it looks good, it is good! drtrap 1 Quote Brian Mystery project coming soon! Current build - Medway Longboat Complete - Armed Virginia Sloop Complete - Carmen (First Build) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share #679 Posted January 21, 2015 Jim, Brian thank you folks. I think that I need 0,25 line for the laynards... Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted January 21, 2015 Share #680 Posted January 21, 2015 I suspect I started with 0.25mm but found the knot at the end would pass through the deadeye still.... Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted January 21, 2015 Share #681 Posted January 21, 2015 The plans say 0.5mm so thats what I used :-) mort stoll 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted January 21, 2015 Share #682 Posted January 21, 2015 This ^^^^^^^ Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share #683 Posted January 21, 2015 Hi Jason! Thank you again guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share #684 Posted January 25, 2015 Hi everybody. Have you had any experience trying to apply wax to the ropes? The micro wax layer that rests on the rope creates a undesirable appearance, especially to black lines/ropes... Thanks. Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitzilla Posted January 25, 2015 Share #685 Posted January 25, 2015 I've heard that after you wax the lines, running a heat source over them will help the wax melt and settle into the fibers, reducing or eliminating its appearance. drtrap 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share #686 Posted January 25, 2015 Thanks Kevin! I'll try it and let you know the results. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share #687 Posted January 26, 2015 Hi mates, now it's time to learn the blocks, hearts and collars rigging but searching my literature and surfing across the internet I can;t find any tutorial for the basic consecutive steps for the serving.... Any help or reference please? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share #688 Posted January 26, 2015 ..there must be a set of rules for the serving of such tiny structures, and (above all) of strictly specific (in mm) lengths... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share #689 Posted January 29, 2015 Hi Snake mates! A question in brief: for the mizzen lower-mast 0,75 shrouds, how many loops have i to create at the top (around the dowel)? Six (that is to say a loop for each single shroud) or four (for a double and a single shroud of each side)? Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_smits Posted January 29, 2015 Share #690 Posted January 29, 2015 Hi Snake mates! A question in brief: for the mizzen lower-mast 0,75 shrouds, how many loops have i to create at the top (around the dowel)? Six (that is to say a loop for each single shroud) or four (for a double and a single shroud of each side)? Thank you! Whenever possible I have done a double loop. In this case I did a double and single for each side. drtrap and Beef Wellington 2 Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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