HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft

[ModelBoatMaker]

The wheel in place, finally.

A question still in debate: the rope for the wheel... Should I use 0,1 or 0,25 line for the rigging?

And something for the front platform: is it a major fault to leave it's gap (for the bowsprit) rectangular than to shape it in a semicircular fashion, like you did ?

I used 0.25mm rope, I also recommend winding the rope round the wheel and sealing with watered pva before anything is fixed in position.

 

Cheers,

 

Pete

[drtrap]

I used 0.25mm rope, I also recommend winding the rope round the wheel and sealing with watered pva before anything is fixed in position.

 

Cheers,

 

Pete

Thanks Pete, I'm thinking to start from the tiller the rigging, going bilaterally to the eyelets/blocks and finishing at the wheel....

Edited September 23, 2013 by Stergios

[drtrap]

The whole procedure finally was so easy. I used the 0,25 line for the rigging.

Next step: the capping rails....

[drtrap]

Thinking of use carpenter;s glue to cover those 1 mm holes before the final painting instead of wood filler...

What;s your suggestion?

Thanks

[Beef Wellington]

Can only speak for my experience, but I'd stick with woodfiller, I use the fast drying stuff which is very easy to use.  Glue isn't really made to fill gaps in the way you need it to, so you'd probably still have indentations when its dry that need to be taken care of.

[drtrap]

Can only speak for my experience, but I'd stick with woodfiller, I use the fast drying stuff which is very easy to use.  Glue isn't really made to fill gaps in the way you need it to, so you'd probably still have indentations when its dry that need to be taken care of.

Thank you Jason.

Any recommendation on the type of fast drying stuff?

You know, local products are'nt the same and personal experience is highly required..!

[molasses]

An alternative to woodfiller is a thick paste of saw dust and wood glue, an old carpenter's trick for filling finishing nail holes.

[ModelBoatMaker]

Thinking of use carpenter;s glue to cover those 1 mm holes before the final painting instead of wood filler...

What;s your suggestion?

Thanks

Yes wood filler would allow you to blend it into the wood better and make the hole unnoticeable, why did you want to use glue as a filler?

 

Pete

[drtrap]

Yes wood filler would allow you to blend it into the wood better and make the hole unnoticeable, why did you want to use glue as a filler?

 

Pete

I was thinking about glue, only as a coverage of the holes, Pete...

[drtrap]

Two planks (1,5 mm each) help me to place and drill the capping rails in the middle border (between the inner and outer bulwarks...

I try to do my best despite the fact that the capping rails and bulwarks respectively are'nt cut in relative harmony...

Out of plan for another time...

Edited September 27, 2013 by Stergios

[drtrap]

Those shearing lateral forces of the bad-shaped capping rail especially at the stern is a huge headache for me.

I think that using beam or heat is a useless option to decrease the unwanted curvature at the rear edge....

I hope to finally have a nice result with those 1 mm wires....

Edited September 27, 2013 by Stergios

[drtrap]

Trying to place on the right (middle) point of the bulwark  the posterior edge of the capping rail. 

Its pre-shaped posterior arch and bending can't help me at all.

Thinking to leave it as it is, as a so-called lateral "offset", on that place.

Hope to not create additional troubles following next phases...

[Beef Wellington]

That looks typical Stergios, I wouldn't worry about it.  Once you get the channels in place it will not be noticeable.  I feel your pain on the capping rails, they are a tricky step to get right.

[jim_smits]

As Jason said, don't worry about the capping rail exact positioning. They were a pain to do and as long as they look sensible and are pinned to the bulwarks then all should be well.

[drtrap]

Thank you mates for encouraging!

Well, I'm about to fix the platforms and glue the capping rails in place. 

[drtrap]

Hi to everyone.

Capping rail (lateral and posterior) dry-fitting is in progress, I'm concerned with the shape of the aft capping rail, as it's a bit curve and not so suitable to the upper rim of the (more straight) stern fascia...

Did you re-shape it anyway or just left as it was and glued in place?

(I saw Jason has made his own aft capping rail, propably for the above mentioned reason..).

Thanks.

[drtrap]

Hello to everyone, I'm back again.

Jim, Pete,  I still wonder, did you use and glue in place the (somehow curved) standard posterior capping rail provided by the kit, or did you place another not so curved 2x2 wallnut plank?

I'm about to fix it, but because of its curved shapeI can't place it "equally spaced" on the stern fascia.

Thanks a lot

Edited October 11, 2013 by Stergios

[drtrap]

Lateral bulwark capping rails glued in place.

I've left unglued only the anterior and posterior thirds just to have the option to manipulate the edges later to obtain a equally spaced placement on the bulwark's rim and a better symmetrical adaption on the anterior and posterior platforms respectively.

[Beef Wellington]

Great progress, looking very good.  I love the colour of the wood in the second photo.

 

I forgot to comment on your previous post, you are correct that I made the stern capping rail because the curvature wasn't quite right.  It was as much for practice as anything, and I could have used the pre-cut piece and it would probably have looked OK.  It easy to judge the curve by putting some card overhanging the stern and draw the profile with a pencil, that gives you the template to make your own or compare to the supplied piece and see if its close enough for you.

[drtrap]

Great progress, looking very good.  I love the colour of the wood in the second photo.

 

I forgot to comment on your previous post, you are correct that I made the stern capping rail because the curvature wasn't quite right.  It was as much for practice as anything, and I could have used the pre-cut piece and it would probably have looked OK.  It easy to judge the curve by putting some card overhanging the stern and draw the profile with a pencil, that gives you the template to make your own or compare to the supplied piece and see if its close enough for you.

 

Thank you Jason, finally I did my own (custom-made) posterior capping rail.

Edited October 13, 2013 by Stergios

[drtrap]

Building like a turtle....

The slots of the capping rails (that unfortynatelly I've permanently glued) are undersized comparing to the timberheads.

Should I use my dremel for a bit of enlargement?

Edited October 22, 2013 by Stergios

[Beef Wellington]

Hi Stergios, don't think you need to do anything drastic at all. They are a tight fit. I'd suggest just sanding down the timberhead pieces slightly, and then pushing them into place with a small amount of force (wiggling back and forth). The wood is pretty soft and I found it does respond to this well. The other benefit, you'll have a nice solid fit.

[jim_smits]

Hi Stergios, don't think you need to do anything drastic at all. They are a tight fit. I'd suggest just sanding down the timberhead pieces slightly, and then pushing them into place with a small amount of force (wiggling back and forth). The wood is pretty soft and I found it does respond to this well. The other benefit, you'll have a nice solid fit.

This!

[drtrap]

Hi Stergios, don't think you need to do anything drastic at all. They are a tight fit. I'd suggest just sanding down the timberhead pieces slightly, and then pushing them into place with a small amount of force (wiggling back and forth). The wood is pretty soft and I found it does respond to this well. The other benefit, you'll have a nice solid fit.

Thank you again, Jason!

By the way, from your experience what;s the best next step you advise me to follow: placing the pinrails etc or placing, fixing and rigging the cannons & carronades? 

Cheers!

[Beef Wellington]

You definitely want to do the pinrails on the bulkheads before doing the cannons. Leaving the ones in the center off the deck until cannons are complete is fine as you ill have more room and are less likely to accidentally knock and break something.

[mort stoll]

Hi Guys,

 

Just a comment. Why don't you make up the pin rails first and mark where they belong on the bulworks but do not glue them in place. Next rig your cannons and then glue the pin rails in place. The extra rigging room will come in handy.

 

Mort

[drtrap]

Hi Guys,

 

Just a comment. Why don't you make up the pin rails first and mark where they belong on the bulworks but do not glue them in place. Next rig your cannons and then glue the pin rails in place. The extra rigging room will come in handy.

 

Mort

Hi Mort, this was my point of concern.

I think that Jason (so many steps ahead) knows better... 

[Beef Wellington]

My personal opinion only - didn't find that the bulwark pinrails interfered at all in the cannon rigging, but do what you think you' be comfortable with.    I'd definitely suggest fixing the bulwark cleats (part 165) before the cannons and this may also play into where you position the pinrails.  This is one of those sneaky items that the instructions don't call out and you need to look at plan '3 of 7' to find them.  Confusingly there are 6 bulwark cleats identified (for lines 55, 5, 50) but only 4 supplied.  If you look at plan '4 of 7', you can see that line 5 does not in fact need to terminate at a bulwark cleat I ommitted that one, installing the bulwark cleats at locations indicated for lines 55 & 50 on plan '3 of 7'.  This is less than clear, and fingers crossed it is correct...hope I haven't caused more confusion.

Edited October 23, 2013 by Beef Wellington

[drtrap]

My personal opinion only - didn't find that the bulwark pinrails interfered at all in the cannon rigging, but do what you think you' be comfortable with.    I'd definitely suggest fixing the bulwark cleats (part 165) before the cannons and this may also play into where you position the pinrails.  This is one of those sneaky items that the instructions don't call out and you need to look at plan '3 of 7' to find them.  Confusingly there are 6 bulwark cleats identified (for lines 55, 5, 50) but only 4 supplied.  If you look at plan '4 of 7', you can see that line 5 does not in fact need to terminate at a bulwark cleat I ommitted that one, installing the bulwark cleats at locations indicated for lines 55 & 50 on plan '3 of 7'.  This is less than clear, and fingers crossed it is correct...hope I haven't caused more confusion.

I can't locate parts No 165 (4 pieces, casting) on my "3 of 7" plan...

Could you please upload any relative photo for understanding better?

Thanks

[drtrap]

I think there is a mismatch between my kit's sheets as far as parts No 50 & 55 are concerned....