HMS Victory by Paul0367 - Constructo - Scale 1:94 - First wooden ship build

[mtdoramike]

hahahahahahaha, I have built a P-51 several years ago for a client.I flew it twice and then off she went to the new owner. It was electric R/C with brushless motor and lipos setup.

[Paul0367]

Back to ships, random picture from Canon port of munitions

[Paul0367]

Portside canons also cut, which completes the hull, just so much framing to do

Edited July 17, 2014 by Paul0367

[mtdoramike]

I love that shot through the cannon portal, really cool. You did a tremendous job planking the deck. I'll tell you, that hull planking wood supplied by Constructo is absolutely gorgous. Constructo is one of the top kit manufactors when it comes to supplying top not wood in their kits.

[Paul0367]

I was messing with the camera on my phone when taking the picture through the cannon cut.

I find the timber very good quality, ok Manzonia is a swine to bend also the Ayous is tough but I have no past experience in model ships to compare there quality. You on the other hand with your back catalogue

will know the kits well. Take a look at the image above of the plan view of the victory, you will notice the timber used at the very rear is not the light Ayous, therefore does not match the decorative pieces that drop down towards the cabin. (Ayous would not conform) and as I was painting her it wasnt a problem. ? can she stay natural

Edited July 18, 2014 by Paul0367

[Paul0367]

Upper Wales added to ports, awaiting sanding

Edited July 23, 2014 by Paul0367

[mtdoramike]

I actually don't see an issue with it, although the lighter wood is supposed to represent the yellow or ocre color and the manzanita is supposed to represent the dark colors of the ship. The way I look at it is, if a change, correction, addition or mistake is balanced on both sides equally then there's no problem. I call it artistic license. But, both sides of the ship need to be the same and equally balanced. So my answer would be yes, you could still leave her natural if you like.   

[mtdoramike]

I love the above pictue, it shows how even and exacteverything is, especially the gun ports.

[Kevin]

sorry I missed the start of you build, lovely work, lol I wish I could go back to that stage on my build, I will continue watching your work

[Paul0367]

Cheers guys it's nice to know I'm on the right track with this, slow stuff on the way. Frames

[Paul0367]

Think I've come cross model ship buildings worse job, framing canon ports. Only manage a few and get fed up

[Kevin]

Think I've come cross model ship buildings worse job, framing canon ports. Only manage a few and get fed up

lol wait until you have to do the gunport lids and lanyards, drove me bonkers, not only that i also spent hours and hours on the linings and repeated them twice before having the lids in the shut position, so you don't see them

Edited July 25, 2014 by Kevin

[shihawk]

Im a big fan of the natural look and from what i see you should have no problem avoiding paint . some thing to watch out for is ply parts although your s may not have as many as my Billings  ,problem is covering the ends ,even stained they don,t look right  ..Did you find a big variation in the color of the Manzonia , i bought a pack of 10 strips and have 3 or 4 different shades  BTW great planking job ,your now at a similiar stage to me ..Boyd

[mtdoramike]

I like the contrast in the shade of the wood, it gives it character.  

[Paul0367]

Yeh Manzonia the doesn't want to bend or comply timber, some brown some grey/brown. Look at my lower starboard Wale and it's two parts and there is a huge colour difference. I didn't mind as I was painting her until Mike changed my mind again but hey its now called a battle repair. Artistic licence some one once posted. Ply parts, this kit so far and looking ahead has no visible ply, intrigued Kevin, why did you close the gunport lids. Difficulty found on this contrasting timber is the Manzonia (pain) tries it's best to bleed into the light Ayous when sanding. Progress now has hit a crawl pace as the messy not really noticeable (to others) framing is being done, when I find I'm in the mood that is.

[mtdoramike]

I know what you mean about bending brittle wood. I broken my share of all kinds of modeling wood, trying to get that perfect bend. I eventually broke down and yep, bought a pair of plank crimping pliers (if someone reading this is a purist, look away). I'm not a purist and prefer to find the path of least resistance when possible. You would be surprised just how many people frown at the phrase "I can have that particular model built and finished for you within a year versus that happy look when you tell them 6-8 months. So sometimes you have to cut a corner or two. I usually soak the strips to be bent in water and lemon or lime juice or vinegar to help break down the fiber in the wood, after an hour or two the wood is ready to be crimped and molded. Now, if the crimped part will wind up showing on the finished product, I start with a larger thickness of wood and once crimped and dried, I sand out the crimp marks and bring the wood down to the proper thickness.  

[Paul0367]

Am I looking at hull using Manzonia, if so that's a lot of tight curves and a lot of pain. I'm playimg with the same timber but no bends.

[mtdoramike]

Yep, they are calling it manzonia, looks more like walnut to me. But to get walnut to bend like that would really be a pain.

[mtdoramike]

I see you have started lining your gun ports. I'm dreading that part hahahahahaha, I did a couple lower gun ports just to get a feel for it and can see right off that it's going to be a chore, especially since there is sooooo many.

[Paul0367]

Yeah Mike, thanks, really need reminding about the quantity involved. ha, ha, 104 ports so that 416 individual pieces to cut/size and glue. 416, oh 416,416,416. Ahhh less now, I've done a few.

[Paul0367]

All my horizontal frames are complete, vertical next, well on the canons they are ive got the rear quarters to start

[Paul0367]

Some verticala are now going in but this is a huge undertaking with very little reward. Those whom see it think I've stopped working on it despite the silly hours spent on this framing the

Edited August 5, 2014 by Paul0367

[Paul0367]

Finally finished canon port hole framing, I have also done a dry instal of the canons and some of the backplates didnt line up, despite being prefabricated. I had to make sections small enough to fit the canon holes, pre drill them and instal, this works but really should be unnecessary. you can see them in the images. Anyone building this kit i would recommend adding to the depth of the cannon mount board before planking as its a pain to sort through a port hole

[Paul0367]

I have moved on to the captains quarters now detail and frames going in, the picture shows my additional frames part installed in the windows, this takes so much time and is so fiddily but I hope it's seen as a better addition by fellow modellers. I also put in a blue window and framed it as the kit intended. I personally felt this was a let down by Constructo and a bit of a cop out. I'm

[mtdoramike]

Latina uses clear yellow plastic for the cabin windows. I personally like the blue better now that I see it on yours. I do like the added frame work and your windows are looking great.  

[Paul0367]

I've finished the portside windows and due to fingers adding grease to the hull I've varnished her today so all works stopped whilst she dries awaiting a re sand and further coats. Mike do you prefer blue to yellow or blue overall, ie blue under framed in wood as as opposed to black. I went black as that's all I see on the real girl sat in Portsmouth

[tinyellie]

That hull looks amazing.  What type of varnish are you using?

 

You're really doing a fantastic job!!

[Paul0367]

Thank you, hey welcome back, we were almost at the same stage of the build last time I heard from you. I have used International yacht varnish from B and Q, I'm not sure wether the next coat should be satin rather than super shiny gloss, Jury is out. I have now decided to make my own spindles for the cabin decoration and ditch the copper ( short Length) ones also, it will take a while to make them all but I'm not in a race. Oh just incase your wondering I'm keeping her wood colour, shows all the effort more than paint. I may build another in the future and paint her.

[tinyellie]

Hey

I pretty much haven't touched her since then but I'm getting back into it now.  But with only a few hours a week to spend on her it's going to take an awfully long time to finish.  But then I bought it to be a long term hobby so I don't mind.

 

Your woodwork is looking stunning so will look awesome unpainted.  I've always wanted to paint mine and my wood skill isn't as good as yours so I'm expecting quite a bit of filling when I get to the hull planking stage. But you never know, I might surprise myself :-)

[Paul0367]

You should be fine with the planking, really. there is more fear spread about the job than actually it is. The only problem about it is that its our first ever so we don't have any idea what can be acceptable prior to sanding. My tip for you is just shave some off the contact area of the plank especially on the curved sections to prevent a gap, the planks are thick, good for sanding back, hell to bend... and lots of cursing to come, before planking I would add 5mm to all the canon back plates because look back over my pictures and you will see some are not inline enough... If you go by the plans you will hit ribs, I hit my first, this if a pain and takes a while to cut out but ok below deck just more work but please, please, please plan your top deck where the ribs are seen from behind, these have to be right and not touched / cut even if it means cheating and moving them a little. I have made a few spindles which I am replacing the brass etchings with. see pic, I plan on making a stupid amount to replace all the brass.