Pride of Baltimore II by Blue Pilot - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[Blue Pilot]

Thank Russ, Joe, and Brian for checking in and adding your encouragement.

 

 

I got a reprieve from work today so picked up where I had left off on the Port side.  I laid a row in the upper belt and I am getting a bit of a V in the middle where the planks don’t want to lay naturally.  My attempt to fix this was a horrid failure!  After a bit of thought I ripped it out and started over.  This time it came out better but still have a bit of a V near the middle at that but joint.  Not sure if you can see it in the picture.  I will have to work on that but I think I will leave it for the moment and bring up the lower belt some to try and bring things together in the middle.  Well not a lot of progress but one row done is one less to do.

Edited January 22, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[GuntherMT]

I see what you are talking about, and you can fix that by adding a plank that's wider in the middle.  Instead of just making the plank narrower at one end or the other, make if full width at the point where it will hit the 'bottom' of the V, and then angle it to the appropriate length at each end.  You just sand and work it until it fits snugly into the V, and if that makes the next planking strake narrower, because of filling the V, not a big deal.  You can also correct this way across multiple strakes if needed.

 

Because I'm horrible at explaining, I doodled on some pictures that hopefully will help you understand what I'm talking about.  I had this exact same thing on my ship, and hopefully you can see the 'v' in the planking here:

 

I corrected this across 2 strakes using the 'wider in the middle' planks as seen here on the finished hull:

 

I sort of tried to paint in the shape of the planks to make it clearer, while leaving the edges clear to see the actual planks.  Due to the curve of the hull, and angle of camera the 'top' edge of these planks doesn't look straight, but that edge is actually left completely untouched except for sanding it smooth, so you end up with a plank that actually has 5 edges, 2 on the bottom, 1 on the top, and of course the ends.

 

Hopefully this makes sense and helps.

[Bill Hime]

Great build log Mark. Your progressing right along. I have the POB in dry dock, log started but has been on hold for other priorities. I'm following along for sure

 

Sincere Regards,

 

Bill

[Blue Pilot]

Brian thanks for the photos and the tips.  Bill Thanks to you as well.  I have been following your build with interest. In fact I am following all the POB builds here.  It is an interesting model as there are a lot of ways you can go with it, all of them great.  After a great deal of thought I have decided to build my model to reflect the modern day Pride of Baltimore.  I got a chance to visit her in Baltimore last year and I will be attempting, as much as my meager skills allow to build her to reflect what I saw on that visit.  More specifically how she might have looked on her day of her ribbon cutting.  In the process I will be stealing… I mean liberating as many ideas from other more gifted POB builders like yourself along the way  

Edited January 29, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

I haven't posted in a while. Truth be told I haven't been spending time working on the Pride until recently. I am getting a bit done here and there and planking of the Port side is progressing.  Here is a picture of where I am at to date.

Edited June 11, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

Learning how to plank the hull of a ship model is one of the hardest things to learn to do right. I am constantly striving to come close to the work done by so many masters on this forum but always come up short. I keep trying to improve and learn new skills in any case. I decided to abandoned the dividers and make an attempt to just look and read the hull and how the planks should flow. I found laying a plank above the row I was working on help to do this. At this point I believe I had calculated I should have 5 more rows to finish. I was pleasantly surprised to see the top and lower belt starting to parallel each other and I was learning to see and fix problems toward achieving that goal.  However, there was trouble lurking ahead, or perhaps I should say astern.

Edited June 13, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

So many days I thought I will never finish this job, then all of a sudden Voila, One plank to go! 

Edited June 13, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

Finished! 

 

Lessons learned.  I had a lot of trouble on both sides getting my but joints to work out correctly.  Next time perhaps I will try using tic marks and marking things out completely in advance.  I also had my two bands become very narrow at the last bulkhead to the stern post.  I had to cut the planks very narrow here to make the rows work out.  I could not figure a way to make a drop plank or joggle plank of some sort to fix this.  This was made even more complicate by my but joints not working out correctly. 

 

To other new model shipwrights who may be reading this, planking the hull seems like such an overwhelming task.  Just focus on one or two rows at a time.  Little by little it all comes togather.  Problems will happen that’s a given.  Just accept that and deal with it as best you can, remember it’s not like we are building the Space Shuttle here.  I am constantly learning new things and improving my skills. I want to thank everyone who has helped me get to this point in the build.  Time to celebrate with nice glass of bourbon.  A toast to the Pride of Baltimore II and to all of you!

 

 

Edited June 13, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

This is a bit off topic but I just have to share!

 

I just sent off an email signing up to attend Admiralty Models November Echo Class workshop in Atlanta. I have had the long term goal of getting into scratch building. However, being a novice I have tried to pick my projects as much on what each has to teach me as looks. I don't think skill wise I am ready to take the plunge to building a plank on frame model from scratch, but this is an opportunity I couldn't pass up to learn first hand with some of the worlds finest craftsmen and take on a project that I could realistically finish. I look forward to meeting some of you there.

Edited June 14, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

I am trying a new wood putty, Elmers Probond wood filler. While it drys I thought I would update my log. As previously mentioned by jcoby the plank sheer is not long enough at the stern. In truth the bow area does not properly follow the curve of the hull either. I previously fixed this portion when I installed the laser cut plank shear pieces by cutting out approximately 1.5 inches and fashioning new pieces to fill in the bow. Here is a picture it is not the best but at the top you should be able to see the joint I made and how new pieces were fashioned.

Edited June 16, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

The second problem with the Plank sheer is it is to short aft, approximately 1/4" .  The second photo shows this and you can also see a piece of the starboard piece has broken off as well.  There are eight knees that mate with the hull and the stern here. The two outboard fit in this slot in the plank sheer.  As is this will leave a gap.  This is the problem jcoby mentioned previously.  Here are two photos showing what I am talking about.  

Edited June 16, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

There is probably an easier way to fix this but I will try and illustrate how I fixed the problem.  I started by trimming off the ends to the proper length with the knee in place.  I then used the laser cut portion as a template to draw a new piece.  I did this on the same sheet that held the original plank sheers.  I then used a straight edge and x-acto knife to trim what would be the two prongs.  These I then carefully glued in place.  I then carefully used the x-acto knife and a jewelers file to widen the slot as needed for the stern knees to fit in place.  Then I sanded the top and sides to match the rest of the plank sheer.

Edited June 16, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

Finally here are a few shots after the repair, sorry the photos are not  great.  I hope this helps at least document the problem for other POB II builders

Edited June 16, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

Now that that is done I have a lot of tough decisions to make on how to go about doing the deck and bulkheads. I plan to stain my deck. Can anyone tell me if paining over stained wood is a problem?  I am trying to decide what I need to painting before or after construction of upper deck area, the plank sheer, bulkheads, and supports will all be painted.  I am also still on the fence whether it is best to build the cabin comings first or after laying the decking.  I also plan to add a few details jcoby did not.  There is separate planks under the windless,fife rail (larger then deck planks) and a small round hatch in the bow I want to add.  They will hardly be noticeable in the end but I am trying to come up with a plan on how to do all this.  In addition, as I want to make her as she is in real life, I will be adding the props and drive shafts to the hull.  I have not seen anyone add this feature so I will be running solo.  My first thought is silver solder metal bands and support tubes for the prop shafts.  I will need to order tools for that from some ware as I have no experience with this kind of soldering. Which is a great reason to go that route .  I also thought plastic, or wood could be used.  The prop shafts will be brass rod and the props are cast parts that came with the kit.  Any additional thoughts are welcome.     

[capnharv2]

Good job Mark!

 

It's interesting that my POB (bought in the 1990's had the same problem with the Planksheer. Several other builders have also noted that problem. Is this something that ME never bothered to fix?

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

[Blue Pilot]

I beleave it is. It's been well documented to be a problem. As far as I know it has not been fixed, though to be fair my kit was bought several years ago.

[jcoby]

Glad to see you working on the PoB II again!

 

I'm up on the fence about the props. The castings that come with the model aren't that great (like all the other metal castings). Seems like a lot of work for something that's likely to fall off later but it's true to the original. They're something I'd planned on adding nearly last–right before permanently mounting it to the stand/blocks.

[Blue Pilot]

Good to hear from you! I have been studying the photos in your log, my photos of the ship, the Practicum, and the plans. I plan to move away from Bob Hunts Practicum in some of the deck and bulkhead work for the next phase. some details in your build are more accurate to the plans and the real ship. Playing with some stain samples at the moment. Interestingly the part of my test strips I did not sand seem to take the stain better then the sanded side. I tried a stain called red oak for a possible substitute for the mahogany. Still a bit to dark I think. I will post a picture when I can.

Edited June 18, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[jcoby]

Maybe look into using chemical coloring? There are various chemicals that react with the tannins in the wood to give a naturally aged color. The PoB II has been in the sun for 27 years now, so the mahogany has been affected by the sun more than anything else.

 

I don't know what would react with basswood. I've heard about baking soda, iron+vinegar (black!), concentrated dark tea, lye, potassium dichromate being used.

 

Dyes are also another option if you want to try and nail the color. They seep into the wood itself instead of just into the grain.

 

The PoB II as it stands today is actually pretty uneven when it comes to the rails. The more I handle it without any top coat the more it seems to match natural wear. Lighter along the edges and darker in the middle. A bit of 400 will lighten it even more.

 

I guess it really depends on whether you are going for "as built" or "as-is today." Fresh cut mahogany is pretty light in color. Just a little bit of orange to it.

[Blue Pilot]

Transom Question:

I hope someone can answer this for me. I have been looking at the plans and have a question about how the transom piece and knees all come together at the stern. Looking at the practicum the transom piece fits on top of the planking. I am not sure if that is correct or if the knees the transom connects to should be flush with the aft edge of the planking (aft Plank sheer Piece)?  The transom is made of 1/32 sheet and/or strips so it is very thin. There is also some trim pieces that go on the transom as well, lower, middle. And outboard edges.

So I am thinking the Knees need to be adjusted inboard from the most aft edge 1/32" to adjust for the transom, or do I leave them flush with the aft edge then add the lower trim on the bottom edge? This is probably clear as mud! I can’t really tell which is right from the plans.

[jcoby]

I think I made the knees flush with what you have now (flush with the planks). The transom then goes on, fancy/fashion pieces, and a trim piece under the transom. I think there is also another trim piece that goes through the transom but I was going to apply it last.

 

I can take a picture when I get home if it will help any. I think I had to redo portions of the transom area three different times due to the plans not being very clear and my lack of experience. I gave up on trying to make it perfect and had to apply some filler. It all gets painted black so no big loss.

[Blue Pilot]

One piece not included in the laser cut plank shear is the aft piece. However, it is in the plans. In Bobs Practicum he does not include this piece and simply runs the deck planking in solid runs across the deck. In keeping with my goal of trying to build the ship as true to life as my skills allow I made this piece. In addition, I will be planking the deck based on previous guidance from jcoby in his build log. Thanks again for that. I started by marking a 3/16 line across the shape of the stern. I then used part of the scrap from the plank sheer (so inboard curve was already made for me). Then I just trimmed up the aft edge. Photo is before aft edge was trimed.

Edited June 18, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

Here is the area we are discussing on the actual ship.

Edited June 18, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

After reading jcoby's last post I decided to play around a bit and see what the transom might look like installed with the knees aft edge flush with the end of the stern. I cut a piece out of the 1/32 sheet included in the kit approximately the size of the transom. After a little trimming of the slots the outboard knees sit in and a bit of sanding here and there this is what I came up with. The piece I made in the last post is not glued in place. It does push out the transom into very gentle curve, which the plans seem to indicate is normal as opposed to perfectly perpendicular to the stern. Of course I am no expert at reading plans. There will be a trim piece installed across where the deck and transom join All in all I think it will do, but welcome more thoughts.

Edited June 18, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[jcoby]

A bit late but here you go.

 

Looks like I extended the last plank of the return to form that detail. Knees are even with the planksheer. I had to redo this section several times so it's much rougher than the rest of the model and the filler needs to be touched up some more and planking lines scribed. I don't want to make it too smooth; I want the planking to show through the paint.

 

I installed the knees and then fit individual pieces cut from the hull planking stock to fill in the aft planksheer. They don't have any actual curve to them but you cannot tell.

[jcoby]

I just noticed in your pictures of the actual PoB II that the side fancy piece and transom top arch trim are both much smaller than called out on the kit plans (and how I built them). I'm not sure I'm going to change it though. I've spent hours on those pieces and they aren't easily changed. The transom area is easily the most frustrating part of the build so far.

[Blue Pilot]

Thanks for the photos. I wouldnt change a thing on your build, I think it looks great. If mine looks as good as that in the end I will be thrilled! The transom always seems to be a problem area to build even on what appears to be a fairly simple transom. I will take a close look at the plans and that trim piece when I get home. I was hoping the width would help to hide whare my plankshear is to thin.

Edited June 19, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

I have been searching the web and my own photos at great length, as well as studying the kits plans and practicum to develop up a plan on how I want things to look when she is done. First, to everyone building the Pride I have concluded our own eagle eyed shipwright, jcoby has spotted an error in the kits plans above. The fashion piece or trim on the side profile of the transom is a narrower strip of board on the real ship then the plans describe. You can compare the photos above to jcoby's pictures where his model does reflect how the kits plans are drawn. It's a small point, and only a keen and knowing eye would ever notice it. In fact, I would not have caught it if he had not brought it to my attention. However, it's a point others may or may not want to address in their models. The choice is yours.

Edited June 22, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[Blue Pilot]

Last year I took a trip into Baltimore to specifically see and photograph the Pride of Baltimore II. I spent a pleasant couple hours taking photos and chatting with some of the crew. One of the things I found most striking was the color of the deck and of the wood on the deck furniture. the standard reference in so many build logs on MSW is a ships deck should be light colored to simulate the practice of holly stoning the deck as was common practice on Navel vessels of the 18th century. Whereas the Pride's deck is dark and streaked with gold, reds, and oranges, brown, and blacks, as a result of time and age. In addition, much of the mahogany trim has faded and in many spots almost honey colored. As I scoured the internet you can see where the deck does change in color with time.

 

I have been corresponding at length with Jason of Crown Timberyard. I can't praise his level of customer service enough. I have not yet ordered a thing but he has been very gracious of his time and we have been bouncing ideas back and forth. With his help we have come up with a few ideas but if two heads are better then one many are even better! So I thought I would bring our discussion to the group here. I want my model to replicate the ship as she was when I saw her. To give you an idea of what I want here is a link to a flicker stream with lots of great photos I pulled of the Internet, not at home to use my photos at the moment also doing this on iPad. So what we have came up with, ok Jason came up with the idea of using padauk for the deck and cabin roofs. Rubbed with mineral oil to darken on the deck and cabin tops and possible Padauk sealed with poly for a lighter look for the Mahoney on the roof trim, roof hatches, Top Rail, helm, or Castillo Box Wood to simulated the weathered mahogany on the real ship. Open to your thoughts. I will post some of my own pictures perhaps later. If I can pull this off I think it could be stunningly beautiful, if not then then I guess it will leave you just sunned

Edited June 22, 2015 by Blue Pilot

[jcoby]

It seems like every picture of the PoB II on Flickr is HDR. The ropes glow, flags are blown out, darks are black, mids are light, and lights are neon. Either that or the PoB II is really crazy looking in person. IMO, the only picture in that stream that isn't HDR is the one of the stern.

 

I had to give up on Flickr for finding color-accurate pictures of the PoB II.