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Looking at various build logs, I see sometimes the black strake is black and sometimes it is not. What is the 'rule' on this? Is it according to ship/class or personal preference?

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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It wasnt always painted black....historically it was sometimes left natural...black or even another color.   I have seen images/paintings/models within classes of ships with a different look  and paint scheme.  I think it was up to the captain or admiral within reason.....depending on the time period.  This is certainly true in the early US....

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Thanks Chuck.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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I chose a Constructo model because I did not want to paint the beautiful wood work. Constructo gives you dark and light woods to achieve the contrasts. Let's face it, these models are a work of woodworking art as well as historic models.

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I agree. For the most part I don't paint much...mostly natural wood or stain. I would prefer to plank the wale and black strake in ebony. I have some that I will try out, but have found it hard to work with. Barring that, the wale will be painted. I have noted Chuck's (and others) method of multiple coats of thin acrylic paint and really like the result.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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Chuck,

 

I have used  thinned acrylics and I do like the results, but I prefer using several coats of India ink.  There are no brush marks, it penetrates well and  maintains a consistent  matte finish.

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Allan,

 

Thanks. I had forgotten about that. I used India Ink for the wale on my SULTANA. I think I diluted it slightly with alcohol to help penetrate.

 

On SULTANA, I had experimented with both black and variations of red. I tried several different methods (diluting vs not diluting, etc) that I forgot what I did. :-(

 

Since I will install the wale and black strake before I plank anything else, I can paint or ink without fear of it bleeding over. Also, since I will be experimenting with planking (real vs haphazard) I am thinking about trying the painting method of multiple coats of diluted acrylic. Decisions, decisions. Perhaps one method on one side and one on the other. Or one on the side and one one the transom. I better stop before the moderators move this to the PAINTING folder. ;-)

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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