1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by gjdale - FINISHED -Dumas - 1:8 Scale - RADIO

[BobG]

1 hour ago, gjdale said:

Go on, you know you want to........😈😈😈😉

Yes, I know I want to but I keep thinking about the look on my wife's face when yet another model shows up at the door!! 😳

[Moab]

Grant; I just cam across you build.....it’s absolutely beautiful!!...Moab

[gjdale]

Thanks very much Moab. 

[Johan Louw]

Hi guys,

Apologies for adding to a very old thread. I have only now bought this beautiful boat.

I have followed this thread and many others and am stuck now.

I have proudly built my 1949 Chris Craft and am at the fibreglass part.

 

All the comments refer to "remove the wax from the fibreglass resin, then wet sand"

1. How do you remove the wax from the resin after it has cured?

2. After wet sanding to 800grit....do you need to top with a clear lacquer varnish or is it ok to polish the fibreglassed body to a mirror finish (like said by Dumas instructions)

 

Thanks

Johan

[gjdale]

Johan,

 

This was my first foray into fibreglass. A detailed explanation of my experience and the process I followed starts on page 5 of this log. I also made references there to an excellent “how to” guide written by Pat Tritle over on the RC groups forum. The actual process you use may vary slightly depending on the type/brand of resin you are using. I used West Systems. To answer your specific questions:

 

1. I did not have to do any specific was removal process - I just sanded.

2. Yes, you will need a clear finish - many coats - over the resin if you want a highly polished finish. I used three coats of resin over the fibreglass and then four coats of spar marine varnish on top of that. I applied graphics after the first coat of clear and then sealed them in under the following three coats. I used a spar marine varnish as it has UV protection to stop it yellowing. You need many coats to allow the sanding/polishing process, which essentially is removing layers to get to a very even final finish. Is it tedious?  Yes. Is it worth the effort? Absolutely.

 

My advice is, take your time, be patient, and trust the process.

 

Oh, and make sure you do some test pieces first......

[Johan Louw]

Thank you Grant,

I have read your log and makes perfect sense. My previous build was the San Francisco II and many various rc aircraft. This is my first mahogany and fibreglass. I definately have a number of test pieces (just in case) and am doing all my work on these first.

I am having challenges with wet sanding but I am sure will master it soon. Maybe not letting it dry properly before continuing. 

I do appreciate your response and really admire all you expert modellers out there.

If you permit me, I will post a photo once complete.

[gjdale]

Thanks Johan,

 

I recommend you start your own build log. It doesn’t matter that you’re already well into the build. A build log is the best way of seeking advice from others and to show us your progress. You will find no judgement here, only helpful advice and encouragement. I look forward to following your progress when you do.

[Johan Louw]

Thank you Sir. I do appreciate it.

[Chill44]

I stumbled on to this site as I have been struggling and learning with this model that my wife bought me for an anniversary. I've been doing RC plane modeling and have built a couple of Baltimore Clippers over the years. I thought this Dumas model would be relatively easy but no, it's been a real challenge. I'm at the glassing stage. your comments about fiberglass cloth weight gave me a start, I'm using 4 plus oz. cloth. Anyway, I'm enjoying the trip. Thanks.

[ikester]

Old thread, but a fiberglassing trick i learned when building a full scale Lancair plane might apply:

 

On bench, lay down some clear plastic, maybe two mils or so thick (I forget).  Place dry fiberglass cloth on the plastic.  Pour on some epoxy resin, do not try to spread it.  Lay down another sheet of plastic over the epoxy, making  a plastic -> cloth -> epoxy -> plastic sandwich.  Use a roller to smooth out the sandwich and evenly distribute the epoxy over the fiberglass.  Roll with enough pressure to force excess epoxy out and away from the fiberglass to save weight.  The plastic sheeting should be larger than the cloth piece to catch the excess epoxy...6" or more along the entire perimeter or so.

 

Using a rotary cutter (looks like a pizza cutter), cut the sandwich a bit oversize to fit the part you want to cover.  Remove one of the plastic sheets and lay the fiberglass on the part to be covered.  Using a stippling brush (cheap disposable paintbrush with bristles cut down to about 1/4 inch or so), dab the cloth into the part to be covered.  When satisfied that everything is making contact with the part, slowly and carefully lift the plastic glass off the part.  You probably need to dab at the glass some more.  Let everything cure.

 

This method worked well for me, since it minimizes the fiberglass cloth distortion and leads to good adhesion with minimal epoxy remaining on the covered part.