Tips and Tricks for Airbrushing

[P_Budzik]

Since you are thinking of pinning this topic, these links might be helpful.

 

With larger models like ships, I really recommend using a large airbrush or a miniature spray gun.  You will find that the better atomization will return a much smoother and finer surface finish, especially for primers.  These two videos help explain...

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_-v7-Wp6no

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6gI9ljJsdo

 

This will help to understand air pressure and setup...

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5BAqPQCpGg

 

This one helps explain what airbrushes work best for specific applications..

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2_YEoGunu0

 

I also have a webpage devoted to airbrushes with some additonal information...

http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Airbrushing/airbrushing_for_modelers.html

 

I hope these help,

Paul

[P_Budzik]

I put up this short video to help answer some of the email questions I've been getting...

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZDujJy5wdI

 

Paul

[mikeaidanh]

Excellent thread! I do hope this topic gets pinned as I am about to get involved in this black art!

 

Mike.

[thibaultron]

JUst watched a bunch of your videos, Paul. Thanks!

[Landlocked123]

Hi,

 

I'm lucky enough to have acquired a bunch of Floquil enamels, probably about 20 colors. I also have a couple of bottles of grey primer, a couple of retarder, and a pint of Floquil Universal Thinner.

 

In a previous life I was fairly accomplished at using Testors Enamels on plastic models, but I've not yet tried to airbrush Floquil on wood, so I have a few questions. I would really appreciate any pointers anybody can give me to avoid wasting what I have to learn how to use them.

 

First, the bottle recommends thinning paint 75/25 with thinner, with no mention of retarder. Other things I've seen said you need to use retarders to spray Floquil. I was thinking maybe 60 paint/20 thinner/20 retarder. Any thoughts?

 

Should I think about the same formula for primer?

 

Most of the painting I've done so far (by brush) has been on bass wood and I've ended up with a bad case of the "furrys". I've since bought some Aero-gloss Mid-west sanding sealer. I've been using it and after it dries I can sand/steelwool to a glassy surface. I've not yet tried to paint it, but it's the next step. Is there a better way to get a super smooth surface, will it be safe to spray enamel over the sealer (BTW it smells like airplane dope)?

 

I can probably experiment my way through all of this, but I think the Floquil materials are fairly precious, so I want to be careful with them.

 

Any advice/suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Best,

John

Edited May 7, 2015 by Landlocked123

[Canute]

John,

I'd definitely seal the wood first. I've used Scalecoat(a model RR paint brand), that stuff model airplane builders use (clear dope and talc) and stuff from local craft stores (Michael's, etc.). Lately, I've used the craft store stuff; more sealer for less bucks! Apply and then steel wool it smooth. Should knock down your "furrys".

 

Airbrush the Floquil: thin it to the consistency of skim milk. I think a 60% paint/40% thinner will do. Mix up a small batch and use the little cup to hold some of your mix.Test shoot it on some cardboard to see how it sprays. Do not pour the mix back into the original bottle! 

 

I haven't used retarder with solvent paints before so I've no clue.

 

I use rattle cans for my primer so I can't tell you the correct mix. I have cans of white, light gray and red oxide (excellent hull bottom and brick color for structures)

[Landlocked123]

Thanks Ken,

 

I do have one more question. If I am using sealer, do I still need to prime before painting? It seems like a bit of overkill. The other issue with the sealer is that if I apply it after I've assembled something it's hard to get into some of the corners to sand/steel wool. If I seal, sand, and then assemble, the only glue I've found which make a strong enough bond is epoxy.

 

I've yet to find a"win-win". Any suggestions are welcome.

 

Best,

John

[Canute]

John, I'd only prime if I was painting a yellow or red color. These are more translucent than the other shades we use. White or light gray primers under the yellow.

 

You may also want to get some sanding papers with adhesive backing. And get some wood popsicle sticks or coffee stirrers. Make yourself some small, narrow sanding sticks. Cut the stick ends to shapes you need.

[Salty Sea Dog]

Great thread JP! This has been really helpful. I'd like to see some of the techniques you have for the leathered and scribed spoons if you get a chance.

 

Paul - Really nice videos. I'm envious of your detail work! I have an old type H Pasche that I have used every now and then but never have been able to get really nice surfaces with. Your video on selecting airbrushes really points out why I should get an internal mix.

 

Some questions I have that I'm hoping you more experienced airbrushers can answer:

Are dual action airbrushes hard to get the hang of? JP has me thinking about an Iwata NEO which can be had pretty cheap at Hobby Lobby with one of their 40% off coupons. Does this airbrush atomize well enough to get glass smooth results and is it a good choice as an all around primary airbrush?

 

I had watched a bunch of YouTube videos about airbrushing inexpensive craft acrylics thinned with windshield washer fluid. I tried spraying flat white and the surface looked like felt. Lots of clogging and spitting. I switched to flat white Model Master thinned with their thinner and got better (not great) results. The airbrush was a booger to clean after using both these acrylics. Is lacquer thinner the answer? Enamel had easier clean up! Are flat acrylics just trickier to use??

 

Any insights would be much appreciated.

Edited May 24, 2015 by Salty Sea Dog

[thibaultron]

When you clean your airbrush, you should not need to disassemble the trigger mechanism. Clean out the cup (for gravity feed brushes) with a towel, rinse with cleaner and a brush to remove residue, run fresh cleaner through it. If you have to take anything apart, you may need to remove the needle and spray nozzle. Look up the Wargaming Consortium videos on YouTube.