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Everything posted by bluenose2

  1. Hello Les here. I though I could get ahead of the game by CAing some of the parts of my DJ Parkins etch set. I am now assembling the parts and realise that CA does not stand up to the soldering process, it boils out when heated. My concern is I am now working on the bandstand for the main gun on my 1/72 Snowberry. My question. Is there a way to disolve the CA so I could solder then assemble the parts?
  2. Hello Les here. After further consideration I would like to suggest a new category. This site requires a WHIMIS folder for those using highly toxic chemicals such as sulphuric acid and other high VOC compounds that people are using. At present there appears to be no guidelines on this site for users. As a former safety officer with a fire department it would be in everyones best interest to have good information about the chemicals they use and the side effects there in. Please contact me on this issue.
  3. Hello Andy. Les here. Excellent work. I am aiming for a topic that is just like the other topics you see when you browse. You and others would build a data base for users to reference when they need information on the adhesives, woods, paints etc. that we use. Add ons to be expected. As this site is American based, litigation issues need to be kept in mind for the administrators. I can't help but think that this is an issue who's time has come.
  4. Les back here. I have asked about this topic several times before. I see several dedicated topics on this site. All the "likes" are great but I am asking those who run this site to suggest how we could set up a new topic based on this issue.
  5. Hello Altduck, Les here. This is exactly the topic. Good one.
  6. Hi Richard. Sounds good.
  7. Thnx Ken. Les back. How would one go about setting up a separate topic, or would this just be a data base under a topic such as tools and equipment etc. I believe this should be a stand alone topic and not one buried into another topic.
  8. Hello Les here. I am now appealing to the moderator gurus. How would one set up this site? I believe it is important. What say you?
  9. Hello wefalck. Les back. My intention was never to impune your credentials. My goal here is to have a topic that members can go to so they can see the ramifications of the products they use. The reason I got upset with your post was that as I young guy fresh out of high school I worked at a fertilizer plant. I was burnt on my back with sulfuric or sulphuric acid. Once again I respect your credentials.
  10. Hello Antony, Les here. I fully agree. One of the secrets is how toxic wood can be when you cut or sand it. I had an employee of mine cut a bunch of lengths of mahogany on a table saw for a project we were doing. Without my knowledge he did this without adequate respiratory protection. He suffered for this. Also the health issues associated with using MDF and particle board without adequate protection may lead to long term issues.
  11. Hello wefalk Les here. I want "YOU" and everyone else who has looked at this thread to IMMEDATELY google Sulfuric or the alternative spelling Sulphuric acid. Go to the wikipedia web site on this. " NO ONE" , I repeat "NO ONE" should ever drink this substance as it is the main component in your car battery. If splashed in your eyes it can cause blindness, severe burns to skin and respiratory damage to name a few. This is the main reason I would like to see a dedicated topic to things we use and their interactions. Our health is extremely important and this should not be a space for unqualified recommendations for handling such items.
  12. Hello Les back. As discussed most of the solvents, adhesives and paints we use do not have a list of what they contain. If you are a commercial company you can request the WHMIS data for products you use so it can be included in your spill cart. My intention here is to see a data base in "ONE" topic site, no hunting required. So you if you are using lacquer thinner you can look at the handling, storage and disposal data. This is important if you are going to use a compound such as sulphuric acid for example. You need to have available, the required safety equipment in case of a spill or worse yet if you splash some on yourself. Long term exposure effects to many chemicals can be very harmful. This could also have recommendations for correct venting, for enclosed the spaces we tend to work in. This would be a topic that could be updated regularly as companies release new adhesives and paints etc.
  13. Hello Les here. When building ship models or other models, I build some major components separately as a finished piece so I can add this component to the kit. You could go ahead and finish things such as masts, spars and other ship board items separately. Pre finish the hull and decking etc so you don't have to go back and try to finish around added fixtures. Touch up later to cover boo boos. So finish the hull then add finished components later if possible. Hope this helps.
  14. Hello Les here. This looks like a very good unit. Beats my Delta for sure. At $469.00 dollars good value. This unit looks well built and should last a lifetime. If your not resawing large slabs of wood this unit will work out well. But best to ring them up and talk person to person mate. Here what they have to say.
  15. Hello Les here. I am starting the prep for my Mamoli 1/64 H.M.S Beagle. I have the Marquardt book on this type. As this ship requires a lot of modification, has anyone out there built this ship to the Marquardt spec? Any help would be great.
  16. Hello Les here. I use pledge for clear coating aircraft canopies after buffing out. You can airbrush it as a sealant or for a gloss coat before applying decals. What were you thinking of using for?
  17. Hello everyone. Thanks. Les here. I have never done a scale lengthening of wooden ship model before. Sorry for my ignorance here. On this kit ,where would I start to get this right?
  18. Hello Les here. As a cabinet maker, I spray my own finishes. I thought man I can save big money and buy a quart of latex paint for 12 bucks where a tiny bottle of Testors or Humbrol is 4 bucks. Didn't work out so well with my airbrush. However it has to do with how finely the pigments are ground. Trying to airbrush with Benjamin Moore paints won't work, nice if you use a Binks automotive sprayer to spray cars and furniture. Trust me on this issue. Hand brushing works out well but you may have to thin it out a little to get an acceptable base coat. Top coats the same procedure. Overall I still prefer an oil base top coat as it has a longer flash over time so you can go back and smooth out brush strokes. Latex based paints have come a very long way and the VOC loads are lower. Great if you don't work in a ventilated area. Practice is most important. A poor quality paint finish can ruin your best efforts. You don't want any model to look like it was painted with a broom.
  19. Hello Les here. Here's my short primmer on paint. Sand out wood till smooth. If you have a compressor blow off sanding dust and wipe down with a damp lint free cloth. Blow off again. Over bare wood I use Humbrol or Testors flat oils. Oil soaks into wood and seals better than latex. Spray or brush on in a light coat. After 12 hours sand lightly and repeat if necessary. Now your good to go. Use oil or latex for your top coats. A smooth base will give you a good start on the top coat. I have seen many finishes ruined by a lack of proper pre prep.
  20. Hello Les here. Bare wood to bare wood is always the best. CA is always a good choice for quick bonding. But be aware that as it soaks into the wood any bleed out is difficult to sand out. It won't take stain or clear coat as well as bare wood, as the surface is now sealed. PVA can be cleaned up with water. I use a cotton ear swab soaked in water to clean up squeeze out. Use less than you would think. Glueing pre finished surfaces will not hold as well as the adhesive does not have the capability to soak into the surface.
  21. Hello Les, back here on this issue. When a file is dull it is dull. Why waste time with acid etching or what ever process? Go to a hardware store and purchase new. Not expensive. Unless you paid $400.00 dollars on that file, as a carpenter once again here's what I do. Recycle that thing. The health issues associated with acids and anything else is not worth it. As I did purchase a very good set of riffler files and other wood files. They will carry you a long way. All files wear out PERIOD. If when you have to clean, soak in lacquer thinner and scrub with a brass brush. This doesn't compromise the sharpness of the file. Hope this helps.
  22. Hello Les here. I feel your pain. I have built the BB 605 St. Roch and the BB 720 Oseberg. The St. Roch required extensive research to get it right. The instructions were hard to follow. I also agree that some of the parts were not the best quality. I purchased after market to upgrade. Laser cut wooden parts can be a pain to work with. Sanding out small parts to get rid of burn marks so they can be clear coated adds to the overall work load. In the end both kits worked out well, but this company needs to do a better job with the plans so a builder isn't left guessing. Overall I would not recommend their kits to a beginner.
  23. Hello Les here. My advice is to go to a store and purchase a new one. They are inexpensive. No need for acids etc. A wire brush to clean during usage, then recycle. Simple.
  24. Hello Brett, Les back. When a model of this scale is built, gaps in planking would be extremely small. A hull could be sanded smooth. If for what ever reason you decide to stain the hull consult the records for this ship to see where it went and was decommissioned, so you can get it right. Look at the box art and decide what you want to do. Where do you want to go with this ship?