
bluenose2
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Hello Les here. Heres my two cents worth. Sorry Canada doesn't have pennies any more. So one tooney. I used to watch a PBS show called the Furniture Guys. Great stuff and very comedic. They used to make their own wood dyes by soaking chains, and any other piece of metallic junk they could find in water and anything else they could come up with. Interesting as entertainment but a waste of time in my opinion. Go to any good paint store and they will have a great selection of water based stains. Just apply and finish. Controllable and predictable. No alchemy required.
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Model Shipways Bluenose, Sails or not
bluenose2 replied to Worldway's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hello Les here. I agree with the above. A schooner can support a set of sails. As a Canadian this is an iconic ship. I purchased the book Bluenose, by Brian and Phil Backman. It has several pictures of this ship under full sail and a full history. ISBN: 0-7710-1000-1. Highly recommended. Also if you rig her with sails maybe consider doing a base that makes her look under sail instead of the traditional vertical bases. Woodland Scenics has great suggestions bases upon railroad dioramas but has excellent water effects. Just saying. -
Hello Les here. I use a cleaning jar called silicoil. Just type it into google. It has an aluminum coil to drag your brush on to clean. Highly recommended. And for solvent based products such as minwax, use paint thinner or mineral spirits to clean. For lacquer based products, lacquer thinner. Soap and water will not clean solvent based products. Be aware that if you use water based products, do not use natural bristle brushes. They will flair out whilst drying. Best for all products is a polyester bristle brush. It can handle soap and water, paint thinner and lacquer thinner. Hopes this helps.
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Hello Roger, Les here. Solvent based contact is a good choice. Pre prime areas to be covered with a gloss coat of anything you like. That way the contact has a good bonding surface. Coat both sides with a thin covering of contact. Wait till dry to the touch then apply. Be aware however that grab will be instantaneous, with no way to reposition. When doing compound curves, pre form the piece before bonding otherwise you may get a crease when trying to laminate it. This applies to coverings that aren't backed with an adhesive.
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Hello mtdoramike. Good advice. I keep new builds packed away so I can't peek. After this build I will go back and finish the Snowberry, as it will complete my WWII collection. Wasn't tired of the basic build really, just the amount of photo etch I bought for it. That's going to get scaled back to preserve my sanity so I can Keep Calm And Carry On.
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Brass mast guilding
bluenose2 replied to bluenose2's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Hello Les here from the bustling metropolis of Beaumont Alberta. Thanks for the pics. What type of sail boat? -
Hello Les here. Am co building the HMS Endeavour. The Marquardt book shows copper sheathing to prevent chafing by the gaff on the masts. Would this have had a patina look or bright copper?
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Hello Les here. After reading the responses I will add my two cents worth. Replank the deck. RE: Frank Mastini, use a small nail or pin to make two identical indentations at the corners of each plank. Sand the deck with fine sandpaper; the sawdust will collect in the indentations. Finish with varnish. The sawdust will darken simulating nail heads. Re sand with fine sandpaper. This should help.
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Hello Dan G. Les here. I built this kit last year. I sanded all of the laser burn marks off of every thing. Then assembled kit. That way you don't get that black line all over. I just wiped a light coat of teak oil on the hull to blend in the wood planking etc. Make sure it dries dull with no shiny spots. If you don't the dust will show up. Also I went to a fabric store and bought some red and off white stripped material for the sail. Way better than trying to paint cloth. Man everything stunk of burnt campfire while sanding this stuff out.
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new 3M ultra flexible abrasive
bluenose2 replied to Bob Blarney's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hello Les here. I have used a brand called Flexigrit for years in my plastic modelling days. 3M makes excellent products for this purpose. I use them also. -
Hello Les here. Ok, I have a new one for you guys. I purchased the Amati electric plank bending tool. It supplies a jig for forming curves. Have tried it out on the long boat for the Endeavour. Works great. Have used the forward portion of the decking to make a template for the planking. If you cut a form with your bandsaw it could potentially work for some compound curves. So do I need to hide under my desk in shame on this one or did I get it right?
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Hello Les here. Thanks everyone one for the info. After building some WW II water craft it amazes me at how colourful theses ships were. The whole idea was to camouflage. I know this was a different era. I will probably build a hull with limited colour and paint out and oil items like cannons, binnacles and long boats for a colour break on deck to draw your eye to these items. Some cannon balls on deck will complete the picture. Once again thanx.
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