Hellmut1956

I am still alive and the focus and focus my activities on my workshop. Will write a report soon. This image shows The monitor setup that I have on my "office" desk in my workshop. The reason for this is the help of an old friend with whom I use to fly his real airplane, a Bonanza 35B, in California, Nevada, and Arizona. He did help me to get a brand new PC with an RTX 3080 graphics card and flight simulation peripherals from Logitech. So while I profit from this setup when I return to the electronics in my sailboat model it is also my virtual "cockpit" for flights in the Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020. Also, my workshop has a Creality Ender 5 Plus 3D printer for which I build a platform on wheels similar to what I did build for my circular table saw and milling table based on a Bosch GTS XC Professional and a Triton TRA001: For the circular table saw I build a system to have the altitude of the circular saw disk above the surface of the table. This way I can set the depth the saw cuta into a wooden plate by 1/100 mm presision. I am planing to make the same for the milling table for which you see the opening where the Triton TRA001 is placed. As the Triton TRA001 router is pretty heavy I have to build support that takes the weight of the router. The other related project in the aspiration system for my workshop and to which I have connected the table saw. As soon as I have my 3D printer in shape to be used I will have to print 3D a device that allows the aspiration system to also get the dust that the table saw generates above the saw table surface.

So much time has passed since my last publication. Since when my serious health problems started I have had 5 strokes, 1 full stroke, and 4 other light strokes called TIA, Transient Ischemic Attack, thanks to the tablets I use to make my blood be thinner. The most serious consequences came from a short break my heart took and that damaged parts of my brain. This was due to a side effect my medicine "beta blocker" used to lower my blood pressure. Since then I have had serious problems concentrating over a longer period of time. Here I got a pacemaker implanted and now I am approaching the point in time to get it replaced after about 10 years. But for about 2 years my medicine seems to be properly defined so that I had no need to go into the hospital. But studying the stuff of this thread sadly is beyond my current capabilities. But one thing I have learned is that keep working on my projects, and keep using the muscle between my two ears as my brain reorganizes itself and improves its abilities. So now I am working on my projects in my hobby of naval modelism. But then I had a problem with my fraise and as a consequence, I started to work on my workshop to fix that problem. But with my tendency to exaggerate the scope of my projects, I am working for a pretty long time on my workshop. I will present that work on another thread. Then I succeeded to crash my pc due to static electricity. After some time I had phone conversations and Whatsapp sessions with a good friend of mine with whom I used to fly on my frequent visits to the USA on his Bonanza. He is now also retired and lives in Hawaii. He proposed to use the Microsoft Flight Simulator and fly virtually together as we used to do flying together in a real plane. Sadly I had to tell him that I crashed my PC. So he decided to buy me a new PC so we could fly together. After that for now one year I have been working to get my office desk in the workshop to be a good cockpit for the MSFS2020: So the first image I have attached shows the Logitech peripherals and my 4 displays. As you can see the monitor setup is less than optimum. So I started to look for a monitor that would be my main display for MSFS2020. The Odyssey Neo G8 display is a curved 32" monitor with a 240Hz refresh rate and 1ms latency at 3840x2160 resolution. I got the chance to grab s special promotion and purchased it. So the main display for MSFS2020 would not be my bottleneck. Now the third image shows my cockpit with 3 monitors, each with 3840x2160 resolution and 2 being 28" and onw 32" . What is still missing are my 2 24" monitors rhat I will place above the 32" monitor. While my RTX3080 graphics board con only support 4 monitors I have connected this 3 monitors to it. My CPU, the i7 11700k and my motherboard has 4 Thunderbolt 4 interfaces those 2 24" monitors are taken care of by the CPU with its graphics functionality. That hopefully will happen this weekend. Possible was this thanks to me no being retired and receiving my pension. So with this my cockpit for the flight sim is done as far as the hardware is concerned. I have pending a huge number of projects I will present in that thread I referred to.

You are right. Not always what is technically of interest good for the nature. As to your statement about resin printers, I cannot judge it. The filament based printing is a technology for which I have invested by buying a printer and for the purposes I have as of now, it is ideal for me. Having written this, I still have a steep uphill battle to learn its use.

I have just received in a newsletter from ALL3DP where this link is contained: (2) PET bottle to 3d Print! : 3Dprinting (reddit.com) I have also chosen one video at YouTube that shows how to make a machine for this purpose: https://youtu.be/ueJXQ7appC0 I found this topic fascinating.

The last years I have focused on improving my workshop and that still keeps me busy. Let us see hov the future will go.

I am building a lot of stuff in my workshop. One challenge is to run a 3D printer in the same room I do operate a Bosch 10 XC table saw and an extension of it a milling table. Both are source for lot of dust. So I decided to build a dust collection system based on a cyclone, that stores de dust in a tonne and that keeps the bag of the vacuum cleaner nearly empty. Additionally I am building an air cleaner that collects particles down to 5 micron size. My workshop consists of 2 rooms so the air cleaner is doubling 2 radial fans with 2 sets of filters, one for each room.

I have used my cyclon based absorption system for the first time and it went well. The new ideas for improvements to my workshop are always flowing and I do try to keep pace in making those ideas real. A video at YouTube showed how to make a system to fight the pollution of the air in the workshop. The system has a filter system consisting of 2 filters set in series. The first one is there to catch the larger particles in the air, like visible dust particles and chips: The filter can be cleaned, regenerated and the filter material is cheap to buy for replacement as this filter will get clogged pretty fast. The second filter is using 2 pocket filters that will catch particles down to 1µm in size. An important aspect of the video was the use of radial ventilators. While they con move big volumes of air they can also deliver the pressure to have the air flow through the filters. Important to be able to use this kind of filter was to find a compromise between how small particles in the air could be catched by the filter and how expensive it is. This pocket filters can be regenerated and so be used multiple times and they are cheap in comparison to other pocket filter supplier products that cost easily 120 Euros for 6 pocket filters. This shows why it is so important the first filter keeps as much parts out of the pocket filters. Different from the radial ventilator the video uses I have decided to buy those 2 radial filters: Both radial ventilators I have purchased and that are due to be delivered on Monday have speed regulators and a small display showing its speed. From first feedbacks I have been getting from forum members in other forums I migged be shocked as I was when I did purchase a 120 litre barrel to mount the cyclon on it. I had no clue and was not aware of its size. The feedback talked about having purchased a 40 m^3 ventilator and how much air it was it moved. Well, having speed regulators coming with the ventilators I will be able to reduce the amount of air to an amount that fits. My reasoning was that purchasing the smallest radial ventilator with a speed control unit and purchasing a big one would make the whole range available to me. The big radial ventilator is planned to be used to free the air in my workshop from polluting particles that cover all the stuff in my workshop and to reduce the amount of particles that could seriously hurt my lungs. This decision was driven because a friend of my son got serious problems with his lungs due to dust. This system that will clean the air in my workshop from polluting particles does reduce the priority to build a cabin for my 3D printer Creality Ender 5 Plus. This is the 3D printer. I set it up by mounting it on the working surface of what I cal my old workbench. I did verify it by making the calibration of the plate and it did work perfectly. i am planning and in the process to build a cabinet on which it and the cabin I am planning to build around so that the old workbench surface is free again.

Slowly but steadily I am advancing with the work at my workshop. As building the furniture on which I will place my 3D printer involves drilling holes with a high level precision as to exactly where the holes drilled are gonna be and having had results by doing it by other methods failes to achieve good results I have decided to buy a drilling bench: i had seen a similar drill bench used in a video at the YouTube channel Ingos Tipps about building a bench that added functionality I decided to buy this drill. It uses 2 laser beams to show a cross exactly at the place were the drill would drill the hole. With this I will be finally able to drill the holes exactly where I want them to be. The video from which I took the picture shows in an extensive form the benefits of this bench. I will build it. The other tool I did purchase is this one: On my first use drilling the holes to take the wooden dowels to hold a wooden plate in its position the results were less than perfect. But I think I have learned to be able to use it better. The drawers im am going to build for this piece of furniture place a bunch of challenges to me. One is to drill the holes for the wooden dowels as precise as possible so they fit into the holes I will have drilled into the MDF plates. Here I believe starting by just drilling the holes for 4 dowels at the corners of the MDF plate, so that I can fix the plate into the right position and than drill the holes for the remaining dowels. But the challenge is that I need to fix the MDF plates for all drawers in their right position, as It gets more and more challenging the less vertical space is left. The other challenge is that the wooden dowels at the center vertical wooden plate need to be used for fixing the plates on both sides of the vertical plate. How do I get the plates on the right side to take the wooden dowels at the center board. Still an open question for me. And finally there is an experience I did gain when my old workbench had a huge drawer. The result was that in that drawer stuff ended up piling itself in there without order. Due to this experience the drawer will only be half as deep the length of the width of that furniture. Si I have the option left for the future to add drawers from the other side. Finally I want to present you with my personal extension to the lateral support that is used both for the router table side of the bench and for the circular table saw on the other side. I have been so pleased with the Bow Feather DUO, the green parts you can see on my last picture of the router table. I have purchased a second of this feathers and I have purchased an aluminum plate that is like the 2 halfs of the lateral support for the router bench, but 12x80 cm long. So I can fix the feathers there in the same way as you can see on the router table side. It looks like soon I will be able to operated my cyclone based dust and chips absorption system with my table saw. Its really just the beginning, but as my 3D printer becomes available on his new desk I will 3D print the missing adapters.

So far I have thought the use of 3D printers for naval modelling is an uncharted landscape. This thread has convinced me I was wrong. Simply amazing what has been shown in this thread. I am about to start to go into 3D printing and I have purchased a 3D printer, the Creality Ender 5 Plus. I was convinced that having a 3D printer is of benefit by seeing in YouTube videos how a circular table saw could be calibrated by using 3D printed parts to fix inaccuracies of the elements of the table. Additionally I saw what a good friend of mine did for me by printing parts I need to implement a cyclone based dust and chips absorption system for my workshop. But I o confess, 3D printing and the related DIY CNC milling machines have become a hobby for me by their own merits. Right now I am improving my workshop to integrated a circular table saw and as an expansion of it a router table. Only when that projects are advanced enough I will be able to make a cabinet on which to place my 3D printer and to make to mutually contained cabins in which I can isolate the contaminated air from my other machines and the high humiity level in my workshop. I do repeat the statement now for my workshop. Improving it has become a hobby by its own merits.

Here ist the plate I did purchase from the company Sauter. They deliver wooden boards to be inserted into the Bosch table saw GTS 10XC. The version that I did purchase is the most expensive one because I did want it to show the same color as the table saw shows on its desk. The grey frame you can see placed within the opening of the board is made of aluminum and it is there so that the aluminium plate that will cover this opening can be made 100% aligned with the desk surface. This alignment and calibration word is key to enable me to get perfect results when using either the saw or the router. here you see my table saw with the board inserted into the desk of the table saw by extending the surface of the saw to the right. Another detail I want to highlight is the element of the table saw that is with a white board replacing the aluminum red colored board with which the saw was delivered. This table element is rigid and mounted on the structure of the saw without it ever changing its alignment. This element is the reference to which all other elements of the table are aligned with. The wooden board that has been inserted into the surface of the saw is aligned together with the right most element when fixing the screws of the right most element. So as you see the table on this foto it is perfectly aligned to the right of the longitudinal support of the saw. Here the link to the page where this aluminum plate could be purchased with more details of it. The version I have purchased is the one prepared to be placed in the opening of the wooden board and it has the perforations so that a TRITON TRA001 coul be mounted to it. Here you can see the aluminum plate inserted and calibrated into the desk of my table saw. This is my router TRIOTON TRA001. Here you see my router hanging from the blue aluminum plate. Not because the pressure the supports that prevent the side with the router table functionality bend down my desk surface due also because the router is pretts heavy, I did build it this way because I did like it. This picture shows with an acrylic plate how the router is mounted to the plate, which in my machine is this blue colored aluminum plate. The silver colort insert is to adapt the diameter of the opening for the milling head that will be used. You canalso see the handle, which inserted in one of the holes of the blue aluminum plate.. Turning it you can set the heigth of the milling head above the router table. I plan to use the same kind of digital display so that I can read the heigth of the milling head above the table surface. But I did further improve my equipment. I did purchase an upgrade for the longitudinal support of the table saw. This upgrade consists of 2 aluminum profiles that can be moved closer or more distant from each other to make the opening between the as narrow as possible for the milling head that will be used. In this picture you can see a silver colored box that is between the original longitudinal support of the table saw and the aluminum profiles of the extension for the router table. To this, at the back of the machine from this perspective, you can connect a flexible tube from the dust and chip suctioning system. Also the milling process of the router generates a lot of dust and chips. Having an opening exactly behind the opening for the milling head of the router dust and chips can be absorbed where it is generated. But this also shows you that connecting this combined circular table saw and the router table requires the suctioning system to have at least 3 ends connected to the machine. Working with the circular table saw or with the router has taken the fingers of many operators when they were not concentrated enough on what they were doing. Even my families requires me to spend as much effort as possible to prevent me from getting hurt. Again, the videos on YouTube are an excellent source for information. Even more by studying all the material about safety when operating this machines I even learned to understand for what was the acrylic transparent part mounted across the 2 aluminum plates. This element has a surface that will be placed so close to the object being milled, that if the operators fingers slip, they will nit slip and get in touch with the milling head. The other issue I did learn was related to the width to which the 2 plates are away from each other. As the work piece has to always be moved from the right to the left, if the opening is too wide the milling head can draw the work piece into the opening, as the milling head always moves counter clock wise. Here the Link to this feather board from Bow I did purchase from Dictum. As you can see in this foto of the router table side of my machine I have mounted the feather shown on the pevious picture to the lateral support upgrade for the table router. The feather on the right pressures the work piece to the support and the feather mounted on the left presses it onto the table surface. By the way the feather on the left I did install in the wrong direction. So while the feathers keep the work piece presed into the trayectory desired it also has a safety aspect. Work pieces can kick back and hurt the operator. Having the 2 feathers mounted on the right side they also make it impossible for the work piece to kick back and also that the work piece is drawn into the opening of the support by the milling head. I did like this so much that I did purchase an aluminum plate like the ones used in the extension of the lateral support on the router side, but 80cm long to upgrade my lateral support on the table saw side so that there also the feathers could add to my security. This 2 grips do help additionally to keep my hands away from the blade of the table saw and the milling head of the router table The tool shown on the second picture explains itself. The one on the first picture is of use when you want to cut with the blade of your table saw a board on its narrow side, same applies to the router table. A victim board is used to move a board on his narrow side and keep it perpendicular to the direction that is being worked on. Having learned so much about calibrating and aligning parts of the table saw by watching the videos on the Youtube Channel of Nachdenksport and having purchased quite a few of the products that he develop and demonstrated in his videos on one side and having a very good friend of mine print me 3D printed parts for my dust and chips collection system for my workshop, I was finally convinced that 3D printing would be very usefull for me. Not just while working on improving my workshop, but also for my sailboat model, the Carina. Thanks to the "Black Friday promotions" I could purchase the Creality Ender 5 Plus 3D printer for 50% of the price I have seen it recently offered. 3D printing is a science of his own right and I will present to you my printer, the cabinet I am building for it and write a couple of things related to the 3D printing. A challengue for placing my 3D printer in my workshop is the air polution due to dust and chips resulting from using other equipment in my workshop. My wife has place a strict veto onme to expand my workshop into other rooms in our house.

A lot of time has passed since the last time I did update my thread about my workshop. Health problems are slowing down my progress, saving money to be able to buy what I was tempted to buy and finally waiting for promotions like "Black Friday" added to it. Listening to videos in YouTube, reading material related to topics I found to be interesting for me in those YouTube Videos and finally reflecting about those potential purchases and their integration into my workshop. So the first piece of equipment I chose to buy after comparing possible alternatives was a circular Table saw. I decided to go for the Bosch Professional GTS 10 XC: The key criteria that make me decide to buy this circular table saw were: 1. The precision of the longitudinal support. Many of those tend to result in having a different distance to the circular blade. The one of this machine corrects its position thanks to the way the fix on the back side of the support works. It get the support to be parallel to the blade. 2. In a German YouTube Channel called "Nachdenksport" the person running it intensively studies aspects of how to optimize the aligning of the table elements. He offers numerous stuff 3D printed that make possible perfect behavior and alignment. 3. The table of this circular table saw can be expanded to include a router table. Numerous expansion options get me as a result a piece of equipment that combines a table saw and a router table. Equally relevant becomes the issue of absorbing the dust and chips originating in the use of this equipment I am designing a system for my workshop, where the dust and chips from ideally any machine I use in my workshop dust and chips will be collected. This graphic shows the principle of such a system using a cyclone to separate dust and chips from the airflow that is being collected from any machine that will benefit from such a system. The polluted air with dust and chips flies into the cyclone horizontally and will spiral in the cyclone. The polluted content of the airflow will fall down in the cyclone and drop into the barrel. The air, now much cleaner will be collected vertically from the vacuum cleaner. The benefit is that a very little amount of the dust will be collected by the air filter and the dust that gets into the bag filter is going to be minimal. This the filters in the vacuum cleaner will remain empty and the suction capability of the vacuum filter will not be reduced. You might guess the shock I had when the barrel I did purchased arrived. Knowing from reading in forums and seeing videos in Youtube, the barrel can implode due to the reduced air pressure within the barrel used. To prevent this from happening to me I ordered a metal barrel and I did chose one that had 210 liters of capacity. Well, assuming I do live for another 2 decades that barrel will never be filled! This is the industrial vacuum cleaner I did purchase. Here the box with my circular table saw finally did arrive. I used the "Black Friday" promotions and got the saw for 50% of the price it was offered at Amazon a month ago. When with a lot of effort I was able to put the box on the surface of what I call my old workbench and this was what I saw first opening it. Here my circular table saw placed as desired on the old workbench. As you can see in this foto the desk surface consists od a good number of elements which all have to be aligned properly. The hole in the surface is were the red piece of aluminum shown on the last foto is placed and the blade will be visible there. I also did purchase a second blade for my saw. Studying videos on Youtube I started to learn about how to use such a saw, what are the sources of danger in such a saw and how to eliminate this risks as much as possible. But I also did learn about what it means when the saw does its job along the direction of the wood fiber or across. That the distance between the teeth of a blade has to take into account the length of the chips that happen while the blade does its job. So the number of teeth of the blade that came with the saw was 24 while the second I did purchase had 64 teeth. The first blade is good when the chips are long and the one with more teeth when cutting across or when the material being sawn did not generated long chips. The groove you can see on the blade with the many teeth is to eliminate or reduce the vibration while cutting. In a video on Youtube I took this image. It shows the desk of the table saw to be expanded and achieving this way to get a router table functionality added to my circular table saw. But I also got a view of how a wooden cabinet on wheels could look like that also included supports to prevent the table on the side of the router could bend itself down due to the weigth of the router. I decided to make it, or at least similar. Here my cabinet while in construction. You can see the big openning on the top left of this cabinet. While the circular table saw cuts a lot of chips and dust is not collected by the dust and chips suction port of the saw, but drops to the bottom inside the table saw. . In this foto you can see my circular table saw from below. The grid that you can see is how the table saw allows chips and dust to drop out of the body of the saw. Here the same view, but now without the grid. The shape of its opening is the shape of the opening you see on the wooden top side of the cabinet. Additionally you can see the black box on the left side of the opening, this is the motor and the aluminum case to its right is where the blade is, On a Youtube video on the channel "Nachdenksport", sadly only in German, a digital sensor is added to be able to display how much the blade will show above the surface of the table saw. Here you see my circular table saw mounted on the cabinet in construction so that its opening at the bottom matches the opening in the cabinet.

Really, the responses I received from al of you are the most valuable for me. Thx once again.

I want to share with you my results in looking for a solution to my question. Apparently none of the standard documents include a definition about how the kind if bit and its size is defined. But I found a website in German language where there are displayed in tables the relationship between the kind of bit and the diameter of the screw with the size of bits associated. Here some first data: Torx: Cross recess screws: So far I have not yet verified in practice the information in this 2 tables, but of course I will do it as a prepare the labels for the glasses. Phillips bits also exist as PH00 and PH000 but the website states that there is no data about those sizes.

Thx for your responses! My question was exclusively about a place where the information can be found, if it exists, from the image of a screw head to identify the size of the bit for it. To identify the kind of bit I have proven in my first contribution to this thread how PH and PZ can be identified. To the very valid question if this is not over-engineering, I am rebuilding and organizing my workshop and screws, washers and other pars will all be stored in glasses and labeled as shown in the picture above. This pictures dhows one of my 3 workbenches in my workshop and on its surface the glasses and bulk parts I am sorting and labeling. I do not do this work for living but for fun. I do not have a photo yet about a drawer organized to have all kind of bits well identifiable. But as an example I want to show you one of the drawers and how I have organized things in it: For me there is a beauty in having stuff organized as the ones on this 2 pictures. The other important reason is to see at a glance what options I have on a kind of parts and to see if anyone of those have not be put back to where they belong. Or see how I keep improving stuff, in this case my power supply panel on my electronics workbench. The first picture shows what I call panel 2nd. Generation, On the right side you can see that I have bridged the cables that connect to my panel and where I want to place electronic fuses I am to build using Mosfets. The second picture shows my 3rd. Generation panel with work on it in progress. The reason for the mayor update was that I found this little displays that will show voltages and the amount of current flow and that require a completely different wiring. Also here, the reason for this was the fun of doing it and the later joy of having it available. So I find it interesting that so far apparently nearly anybody has dealt with the issue of identifying the bit size from analyzing a specific screw. The best so far is the link to a table where bit size is put in relationship with screw diameter.