Ray

Quarter deck planking
 
 
Next I have planked the quarter deck same method used as before and I joggled the planks as I did on the forecastle.
 
Planking started

 
Half way

 
Nearly done

 
Quarter deck planked

 

 

 

Quarter deck planking
 
 
Next I have planked the quarter deck same method used as before and I joggled the planks as I did on the forecastle.
 
Planking started

 
Half way

 
Nearly done

 
Quarter deck planked

 

 

 

Quarter deck planking
 
 
Next I have planked the quarter deck same method used as before and I joggled the planks as I did on the forecastle.
 
Planking started

 
Half way

 
Nearly done

 
Quarter deck planked

 

 

 

Quarter deck planking
 
 
Next I have planked the quarter deck same method used as before and I joggled the planks as I did on the forecastle.
 
Planking started

 
Half way

 
Nearly done

 
Quarter deck planked

 

 

 

The quarter deck open rails have now been completed, and also, the top rail across the top of the stern has also been added, and some more of the the side decoration strips have been added, just a bit of paint touching up is required.
 
Completed open quarter deck rails

 

 

 

 
Stern  rail
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

This stove is a work of art it deserves its own diorama.

Thanks Michael
 
There's plenty of opportunities to make furballs out of rigging a ship, I figure anything I can do to try to keep things in order has to pay off at some point.
 
Welcom aboard, Jack. The friezes are photo etched brass that came with the kit, the trick is trying to make them look painted on... judging by your comments, I guess I did alright... thank you..
 
Small update time. The weather today has turned...well... fall-ish.   Good day to stay indoors and poke at model ships... In that light, I went after the boomkins and their associated rigging. By and large, fairly straight forward, the biggest challenge is maintaining some semblance of symetry. The fore-tack blocks mark my first use of Chuck's excellent aftermarket blocks. I'll need to order a few more before I get finished rigging. Besides, you can never have enough extras laying about
 
Oh yeah... another GFP...
 
Andy

Great work Mobbsie good way of setting up the chains look forward to the pinnace updates.

Step Two--- a few kit improvements.
The masts and yards on this Langton kit are made of white metal, which, though holding detail well, is dangerously soft. As you can see, I replaced the top gallant masts with brass. This has two salutary effects-- It allows a lighter size with better taper, and  helps prevent the insanely easy accidental bending of the masts during handling and rigging, which distorts and weakens the white metal to the point of trash. Wood is as good or better, but since everything will be painted anyway, I used some brazing rod I had around. The first pic shows the original on the far left, and the "improved" fore mast and bowsprit on the right. The photo shows me some little bends already introduced in the tops which will have to be fixed. There is also a fair amount of detail to be added/ corrected, but these are the bones.
      As said before, nothing gives a miniature ship away in photos faster than heaviness at the top--- hopefully, I have begun to prevent this. Meanwhile, I have scraped and sanded the little bit of flash from the hull, and filed out the gunports.
       Next time, I will have primered the whole mess and we'll get into strategies for painting.
john

The quarter deck open rails have now been completed, and also, the top rail across the top of the stern has also been added, and some more of the the side decoration strips have been added, just a bit of paint touching up is required.
 
Completed open quarter deck rails

 

 

 

 
Stern  rail
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

The quarter deck open rails have now been completed, and also, the top rail across the top of the stern has also been added, and some more of the the side decoration strips have been added, just a bit of paint touching up is required.
 
Completed open quarter deck rails

 

 

 

 
Stern  rail
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

The quarter deck open rails have now been completed, and also, the top rail across the top of the stern has also been added, and some more of the the side decoration strips have been added, just a bit of paint touching up is required.
 
Completed open quarter deck rails

 

 

 

 
Stern  rail
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

The quarter deck open rails
 
 
I looked at the photos in my books and worked out a hight for the top rail, and then drew out a template, (see photo), which would give me good idea of what it would look like,  I also used the template to cut out the uprights. Firstly I made a trim to go at the top of the bulwark and under the bottom rail. The bottom and top rails were made from 5x2mm beech which bends really well even after a short soak the uprights were fitted into slots in the bottom rail which when they were all made were painted and glued on, the top rail was bent to shape, and all the upright positions marked, the rail was then drilled to just under the breaking through point,and then cynoed onto the uprights, one down one to do.
 
Rail profile drawn out

 
trim added under bottom rail


 
bottom rail

 
bottom rail and uprights

 
Top rail ready to fit

 
Top rail fitted

The quarter deck open rails have now been completed, and also, the top rail across the top of the stern has also been added, and some more of the the side decoration strips have been added, just a bit of paint touching up is required.
 
Completed open quarter deck rails

 

 

 

 
Stern  rail
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

The quarter deck open rails
 
 
I looked at the photos in my books and worked out a hight for the top rail, and then drew out a template, (see photo), which would give me good idea of what it would look like,  I also used the template to cut out the uprights. Firstly I made a trim to go at the top of the bulwark and under the bottom rail. The bottom and top rails were made from 5x2mm beech which bends really well even after a short soak the uprights were fitted into slots in the bottom rail which when they were all made were painted and glued on, the top rail was bent to shape, and all the upright positions marked, the rail was then drilled to just under the breaking through point,and then cynoed onto the uprights, one down one to do.
 
Rail profile drawn out

 
trim added under bottom rail


 
bottom rail

 
bottom rail and uprights

 
Top rail ready to fit

 
Top rail fitted

The quarter deck open rails have now been completed, and also, the top rail across the top of the stern has also been added, and some more of the the side decoration strips have been added, just a bit of paint touching up is required.
 
Completed open quarter deck rails

 

 

 

 
Stern  rail
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

The quarter deck open rails have now been completed, and also, the top rail across the top of the stern has also been added, and some more of the the side decoration strips have been added, just a bit of paint touching up is required.
 
Completed open quarter deck rails

 

 

 

 
Stern  rail
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

The quarter deck open rails have now been completed, and also, the top rail across the top of the stern has also been added, and some more of the the side decoration strips have been added, just a bit of paint touching up is required.
 
Completed open quarter deck rails

 

 

 

 
Stern  rail
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

The quarter deck open rails have now been completed, and also, the top rail across the top of the stern has also been added, and some more of the the side decoration strips have been added, just a bit of paint touching up is required.
 
Completed open quarter deck rails

 

 

 

 
Stern  rail
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

The quarter deck open rails
 
 
I looked at the photos in my books and worked out a hight for the top rail, and then drew out a template, (see photo), which would give me good idea of what it would look like,  I also used the template to cut out the uprights. Firstly I made a trim to go at the top of the bulwark and under the bottom rail. The bottom and top rails were made from 5x2mm beech which bends really well even after a short soak the uprights were fitted into slots in the bottom rail which when they were all made were painted and glued on, the top rail was bent to shape, and all the upright positions marked, the rail was then drilled to just under the breaking through point,and then cynoed onto the uprights, one down one to do.
 
Rail profile drawn out

 
trim added under bottom rail


 
bottom rail

 
bottom rail and uprights

 
Top rail ready to fit

 
Top rail fitted

The quarter deck open rails
 
 
I looked at the photos in my books and worked out a hight for the top rail, and then drew out a template, (see photo), which would give me good idea of what it would look like,  I also used the template to cut out the uprights. Firstly I made a trim to go at the top of the bulwark and under the bottom rail. The bottom and top rails were made from 5x2mm beech which bends really well even after a short soak the uprights were fitted into slots in the bottom rail which when they were all made were painted and glued on, the top rail was bent to shape, and all the upright positions marked, the rail was then drilled to just under the breaking through point,and then cynoed onto the uprights, one down one to do.
 
Rail profile drawn out

 
trim added under bottom rail


 
bottom rail

 
bottom rail and uprights

 
Top rail ready to fit

 
Top rail fitted

The quarter deck
 
 
The forecastle deck now completed I now turned my attention to the quarterdeck ,this is were I change from the kit version, to the as built  in 1794 Diana with the open rails, and only 9 pounders. Firstly I cut out and fitted the waterways, I then discovered the gun ports were all wrong, the  bottom of the ports were to low as was the hight of the bulwark when a cannon was offered up to the port, Please note this problem only applies to the 1794 version not the kit version.
 
My solution was to remove firstly the outer hull planks, glue together two planks and plank the inner bulwark covering the old ports,then extend up the middle planking row and fill in the old ports,and lastly re-plank the outer hull,and when both side had been done I cut out the gun ports using a cannon to get the correct heights,I would highly recommend anyone building Diana to this spec build the bulwarks above the deck and do not cut out the gun ports until you reach this point. The ports were cut 1mm oversize to allow them to be lined. next I painted the outer hull and inner bulwark, the open rail is the next job.
 
Quarter deck waterway

 
Removing old planking

 
New planking

 
Fitting inside plank

 
Rebuilding bulwark

 
rebuilt bulwark


 
Re-cutting gun ports

 
New bulwarks completed



 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Futtock staves.... here's what I've come up with:
 
I started off with some 0.020" Brass wire, because the 1mm kit supplied wither is too thick to be used if you're going to serve them, as they should be. Even the 0.020" wire looks a little thick (by my "calibrated eye"), but it will do. Serving is easy in this case, just tie off the end and start wrapping. When I had enough wire wrapped, I dipped the whole thing in acrylic matte medium, and let it dry. I did this a couple of times more. This won't secure the thread to the wire, but it will secure it to itself, and will hold long enough, that when the time comes to cut the stave to length, there's enough time to get a drop of glue on the end without having the whole thing come unwound. Having flush cutting nippers helps, and is pretty much a necessity. I don't recommend regular wire cutters becuase in order to restore the flat end, you'd need to pass a file over it, and that's just too risky.
 
After all that it's simply a matter of scuring the staves to the shrouds. I just used a simple clove hitch on an angle across the stave and shroud, I would also alternate the angle: / or \, to keep the thing from twisting too much. Tie off three or four to start (spaced a couple shrouds apart). That will be enough to hold the thing in position. Let the glue securing the knots dry, cut the leftover ends and tie a few more. Continue until finished. Finally I did a final trim to length, and after the glue dried, added a small dab of black paint on the end of the wire.
 
 
Mobbsie, unfortunately my rest time at home is going to be very limited, I will have to go back to work next week. Just one of those things, I'm affraid. The good news is, I'm hoping to stay until December so I'll get Christmas at home, and hopefully my holiday will extend to next spring fitout. Fingers crossed.
 
Andy
 

The quarter deck open rails
 
 
I looked at the photos in my books and worked out a hight for the top rail, and then drew out a template, (see photo), which would give me good idea of what it would look like,  I also used the template to cut out the uprights. Firstly I made a trim to go at the top of the bulwark and under the bottom rail. The bottom and top rails were made from 5x2mm beech which bends really well even after a short soak the uprights were fitted into slots in the bottom rail which when they were all made were painted and glued on, the top rail was bent to shape, and all the upright positions marked, the rail was then drilled to just under the breaking through point,and then cynoed onto the uprights, one down one to do.
 
Rail profile drawn out

 
trim added under bottom rail


 
bottom rail

 
bottom rail and uprights

 
Top rail ready to fit

 
Top rail fitted

The quarter deck open rails
 
 
I looked at the photos in my books and worked out a hight for the top rail, and then drew out a template, (see photo), which would give me good idea of what it would look like,  I also used the template to cut out the uprights. Firstly I made a trim to go at the top of the bulwark and under the bottom rail. The bottom and top rails were made from 5x2mm beech which bends really well even after a short soak the uprights were fitted into slots in the bottom rail which when they were all made were painted and glued on, the top rail was bent to shape, and all the upright positions marked, the rail was then drilled to just under the breaking through point,and then cynoed onto the uprights, one down one to do.
 
Rail profile drawn out

 
trim added under bottom rail


 
bottom rail

 
bottom rail and uprights

 
Top rail ready to fit

 
Top rail fitted