Chasseur

I'm liking the paper sails too....they are opaque enough..but still present a real sail like quality...
A few more for the day.....
 
Rob

And a few more.....I think she is going to be a good looker when complete....
 
Rob

I took some closeup to help get the perspective...

After the final rigging was added that would be harder to add later was done..I focused on making the fore main course.  Using my sail making technique and a couple of hours...I finished making the sail and now all was needed was to bend it to the yard.
It is being supported with extra elevation...so that when it is dry it will have some room to sag back down and be clewed up and rigged.
Bunt lines and reef points were added as well...

Spent some time finishing up the items I had mentioned earlier.
The clew lines and the lower yard lifts......added some rope coils too..

Thanks everyone for the informative and complementary input.
Well somebody said at some time in the log way back that I was like a dog with a bone.....😀  The saga continues.
I thought about the baseball stitching a lot in the last day, and gauntlets are always compelling so thanks for that Bob.
 
A new ring slightly smaller in Diameter.

 
After three times flattening and annealing
 

 
Folding and drilling tapped 2x56 to clamp it together. and a strip of quite thin leather from a salvaged bit of clothing. to check the length.
 

 
The strip was marked with 2mm increments and a small awl punched holes.
 

 
After reading and watching some demos on the web I was ready to start, the one caution was to use blunt needles so I dulled a couple of fine needles for the job.
 
First threading.

 
Last and tied off.

 
Mama ring, Papa ring, and Baby ring.

 
I used the hook off the second Traveler on the new one. The leather and threads have been waxed I stained the treads a little to tone them down.
 

 
Reinstalled
 

 

 

 
And here it is clear of the bowsprit shrouds.
 

 
I'm done with this puppy and will be movin' on.
 
Michael
 

It's interesting to see that the design and construction of the traveller ring has not changed in well over 200 years! 

Mike, Comes pretty close to the ceiling! It really is beautiful work. I can look at it for hours.
 
Kurt

Bob thanks for the compliment about the quality of my work I appreciate it a lot.
I'm afraid you lost me here bob. I am a visual type learner and a picture of what you are explaining would be really helpful.
 
 
In making my decision to do the leather the way I did was basically because all the examples that are clear on the net and the Commercial travelers for sale appear to be done this way. as these are from the net  sorry I don't know how to shorten the address without using the link in the header 
 
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjn_Yf57ITfAhU9CjQIHettDjEQMwhFKAowCg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.unlikelyboatbuilder.com%2F2015%2F06%2Foil-or-varnish.html&psig=AOvVaw0EGuwX9M6x0i_Yv6PWhW_u&ust=1543967409551916&ictx=3&uact=3

 
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjn_Yf57ITfAhU9CjQIHettDjEQMwh8KDQwNA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackwaterleather.co.uk%2Fre-leathering-a-bowsprit-traveller%2F&psig=AOvVaw0EGuwX9M6x0i_Yv6PWhW_u&ust=1543967409551916&ictx=3&uact=3
 

 
And in the second picture you posted  the ring is covered in leather the same way.
 
Again Bob I used examples that I have looked at on the net for my inspiration as in this example on Polly Agatha relaxing at Cowes
 

 
or in this example of Betty in Amsterdam

 
or in this example on Integrity built by Stirling recently.

and finally this well crafted example on  White Rose from ClassicBoats
 

 
I certainly agree that there is a possibility of chafing of the leather as it gets close to the end of the bowsprit perhaps I need to make the ring a little smaller as in the example above. what is interesting about this example is that the sheave is on the bow side of the cranse iron whilst in the other example it is ahead. I don't need to say much about the way the leather is stitched although the baseball stitch would possibly be more aesthetically pleasing.
 
Perhaps I shall try it on a smaller ring sometime.
 
Michael 
 
 
 

A truly beautiful job on this pilot cutter!  As others have noted, the metalwork is spectacular.
 
Just a few comments from an old "pilot cutter type" sailor which I hope may be helpful:
 
As you can see, there will be chafing between the leather of the jib traveler and the seizings on the whisker stay splices. Keeping it all as simple as possible and as free from chafe and chances for hang-ups and tangles is to be desired. This style of traveler poses the inherent problem of binding when running in and out the spar. As the traveler sheet pulls the ring, the ring will tend to "lay down" on the spar and bind
 
There are a number of ways to deal with the jib tack hook and the bail for the traveler "messenger lines" (or whatever one calls them,  ... "different ships, different long splices.")  Some are as basic as a "U" welded to the traveler ring. Classically, the sheet bail is shaped like a somewhat elongated "U" shackle with the ring running through the "eyes" of the "U" shackle. The ring also runs through the eye of the jib tack hook which is positioned between the two "eyes" of the "U" shackle with the ring running through all three "eyes." This permits the bail and the hook to rotate on the ring independent of each other.  Instead of a "U" shackle, a short bar or other forged fitting is often designed so that the ring runs through a center hole in the bar and "eyes" at the fore and aft ends of the bar are available to shackle or splice on the messenger lines running forward and aft of the ring connection. This is a preferable arrangement, IMHO, because it does not require the bail to reverse its lead, fore or aft, depending upon which way the ring is being pulled on the bowsprit which, with a bail, will run afoul of the jib tack hook one way or the other when the messenger line is pulled. 
 
Where the ring is not solid and is bolted together at the top, the bail and hook is arranged similarly to how it is done when on the ring alone. The "eyes" of the bail can be outside of the "tabs" or "ears" and the hook between the "tabs" or "ears," with the bolt running through the eyes of the bail, the tabs on the ring, and the hook eye. Alternately, if a bar is used instead of a bail, the bolt goes through the middle hole on the bar. Another common design which permits easy removal of the traveler ring, is to break the ring at both the top and bottom, with "tabs" or "ears" as you have them pictured above both at the top of the ring and at the bottom of the ring. At the top will be a bail and the hook and, if one wishes a second messenger line to complicate the rigging, a second messenger line can be attached at the bottom of the ring which can come in very handy to overcome any binding or hang-up when sliding the traveler ring in and out the bowsprit.   Double messenger lines will, of course, require another turning block below the cranse iron and the question of whether redundant messenger lines are worth the trouble will depend on the size of the vessel more than anything else.
 
Yet another version of the fitting is to use a "T"  or triangular-shaped metal plate with three holes. One hole half way between the corners of one side of the triangle, or at the intersection of the vertical and horizontal "legs" of the "T" has the ring or ring joining bolt run through it. The hook and the two ends of the messenger lines are attached to the other three holes at the extremities of the piece. This is the simplest solution of all.
 
In earlier times, the tack hook tip was "bent and balled" to permit mousing, which is required to keep the tack cringle from coming adrift of the hook. In later times. "pigtail" or "S" hooks of various designs which reduce the chance of the cringle shaking free, have been employed.
 
The rings are not properly leathered with the plain seam stitch shown. The leather's width was cut to the match the circumference of the ring, or be a tad shy of it, then wet down and sewn together with a "baseball" stitch, stretching the leather so that the edges met exactly and the leather shrunk tight. This was a stronger stitch and finishing the seam in this way prevented fouling. This would also resolve the chaffing issue with the whisker stay splice serving seen in the photo above. I expect that using a thinner piece of leather (it may be planed thinner on the inside face) stretched and shrunk in place will avoid "scrunching" as the leather goes around the curve.
 
While I'd defer to some more authoritative source than my own recollection, I've never seen a sheave in the end of a bowsprit in conjunction with a cranse iron. The sheave in the end of a bowsprit is common for small craft with reefing bowsprits which set headsails flying and do not carry whisker stays. In such, the line to which the headsail tack is attached runs through the sheave in the end of the bowsprit and down to a turning thumb cleat and back up to a cleat on the bow rail. This arrangement can be set up with, or without a bowsprit traveler. This is the standard arrangement in Irish hookers.
 

(Below) "Bent and balled" tack hook, un-moused, as tack is not attached. (Bowsprit reefed.)



(Below: Irish hooker showing "jib tack + bobstay" rigging run around thumb cleat on starboard cutwater and up to the bow bitt.

Lovely job on the brass, Michael. If you find it hard to get leather to take the shape you want it to, try moistening it (with e.g. a spunge and luke warm water), shape it around the form, and let it dry. It is what a lot of saddlers do for amongst others certain parts of a saddle, runners, and some loops

Outstanding Michael - I can’t think of anything further to say - simply, outstanding!

Thanks all for the fine comments.
I mentioned yesterday revisiting the hook.... well one thing led to another, I know that's what they all say.
 
First thing was to machine down some more 3/16 (.1875) to .140 this is reduced the ring from a scale 1 1/2" diameter to 1 1/8" diameter. then annealed it and bent up a new ring.
 

 
Next the ends were annealed again and flattened.
 

 
The flattened ends were then folded up with some round nosed pliers after another annealing.
 

 
The folded ends were cleaned up with a file.
 

 

 
Then a new leathering done using the same thin leather and some light thread. 
 

 
I was not happy with the results and so stripped off the leather and used a thicker leather.
 

 
This worked much better that I expected and laid much smoother around the ring.
 

 
The holes needed to be drilled because I was so caught up with getting the leather work done, that I forgot to drill them first.
 

 
Next a retaining bolt and a couple of nuts from some 1/8" hex stock and threaded 1x72.
 

 
and a hook
 

 
I needed to modify the end of the bowsprit to add a sheave to pull the traveler back and forth. Also added a brass strengthening ring once the sheave was fitted.
 

 
Threaded up the traveler line and tied it to the traveler.
 

 
Lastly pulled the traveler out to the end of the bowsprit.
 

 
A long day but I am pleased with the outcome. So now the jib stay is operational.
 

 
Tomorrow I need to clean up the shop which looks like a hurricane went through.
 
Michael
 

Hi Michael,
yes I would like to try and find some time for another visit. Right now tied up with work and professional studies in the evening. I have 2 weeks off at Christmas to catch up with family, work on HMS Wivern ship in bottle and eventually get back to the Preussen SIB. I’ll PM you closer to the 25th.
 
As always outstanding work and nice fix to the dead bar and consultants. There was never a doubt in my mind that you wouldn’t resolve the problem.
Jeff

Just caught up to this. Hope you and Judy are well. Now that the beast is it of your Man Cave it looks like you  ‘all of a sudden’ have tons of space. Thanks again for the tour of your shop, the shim stock, and I look forward to the completion of the cutter. As always top notch workmanship!
Jeff

Just caught up to this. Hope you and Judy are well. Now that the beast is it of your Man Cave it looks like you  ‘all of a sudden’ have tons of space. Thanks again for the tour of your shop, the shim stock, and I look forward to the completion of the cutter. As always top notch workmanship!
Jeff

Thanks Pat
 
Not a lot to show for today, I am thinking of some steel cables for the topmast shrouds so did some experimenting with some Beadalon wire and made 4 new shackles. from some .060 copper wire.
 
I soldered up a small fixture for drilling the .056 holes through the shackles
 

 

 
The pins were turned from some inexpensive 3/16 brass rod from Home Depot. I am impressed at the free machining quality of this brass, which allowed for me to cut the diameter in one pass, this ensured that the work was supported all the way by the 3/16 section as it was being reduced. I backed out the cutter and cut a shoulder that was .030" larger in diameter, then parted off the pins for drilling the #78 retaining ring hole. 
 
I filed a small flat with a #8 cut file as a land for the drill. which I supported pretty close to the cutting edge.
 

 

 

 
That's it for today.
 
Michael
 
 

Tim I have spent countless hours pouring over just about every detail of "Integrity" it is a beautifully conceived yacht. and to answer you question about the model I will probably give it away eventually.
 
Thanks Druxey, I really did not want to go through the motions of making a fourth topmast.
 
Kees thanks for you kind words
 
Ab thanks for your words and yes the details are for me, the most fun and challenging part. It again reminds me of Remco's byline that I'm paraphrasing if one treats every part as a model in its own right one will get there eventually.
 
Steve yes this will be a great experience hopefully a lot of fun too.
 
Thanks Dowmer I was just too tired to remember last light.
 
I also forgot to add the pictures of the new pin rail that is almost complete. it is made from fir and i was able to get one more pin in by just squeezing them a 1/2 inch closer together. Scale that is of course.
 

 

 

 
I will put a small brass cap on the tops of the uprights and round off the center part of the extensions that come through the rail.
 
Michael

Thanks for all the likes and fine comments
More work on the topmast today. first i needed to make the small strop for the shrouds at the top. the first part was to make a ring by unwinding some rope making a length of about 8 1/2 inches long then recoiling itself into a ring.

 
Once the ring was formed then the thimbles were placed on some new arms for the third hand. and then some "whipping" can't think of the proper term at this time of the night.

 
Then the top of the topmast was ready for the "harness"
 

 
notice the line just below the harness, the result of the error of cutting the slot for the top sheave at 90 degrees to where it should have been cut. I slipped the topmast through the headstock of the Myford after several wraps of masking tape to protect the wood, and cut a rebate about 1/8th inch wide down to 5/32 diameter then cut off the top with the jewelers saw. then bored a shallow hole the same diameter. coated both parts with a thin film of ACC once that had set I pushed the parts together with the sheave fore and aft then gave another shot of ACC to fix it in place.
 

 
The shackles are different the small one is new today and the longer one from the bin of shackles.
 

 
Once the shrouds were connected, I hoisted the mast again, and laid them over the ends of the spreader to get the position of the lower tackle.
 

 
Tomorrow I shall finish the ends or the spreader.
 
Michael
 

Thanks for all the kind remarks.
I made a short video of the topmast being hoisted. I spent a long time getting the topmast to hoist up properly which also included making a couple of sheaves that are attached to the mast. The following sequence should be self explanatory.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Michael

Thanks for all the visits and likes they are appreciated.
Mark, Steve answered your question for me. The one thing I do have to do to finish the topmast shape, is to make the transition from the square section to the round section much more abrupt, at the moment it is too long and the rope binds there only needs to be a short section where the rope lays in a groove to prevent the square section from binding. 
 
Needing some more blocks and working at different ways to produce a block that will be easy to make and economical in terms of time and materials. It is fun to explore new styles and ways of doing things. back in 2013 I made some blocks this way. using some 1/8" x .025" strip if my memory serves me correctly. The wood was maple and the sheave about 3/8ths diameter.
 

 
I had been looking at the pictures in this catalogue under these blocks.
 

 
and at the time I had not sorted out how to achieve the metal rounded top on them. Fast forward to this week, and having looked at all sorts of wonderful work of rigging parts by Ed Tosti, who uses copper for many of his fittings. I woke up with the idea that maybe I could use copper for this rounded top instead of brass. So I took some heavy copper wire approx 1/16th diameter and annealed it, then flattened each end. this looked promising.
 

 
I cut a few more lengths and flattened the ends leaving approx 1/2" in the middle that was still round This time I flattened the ends in a single squash but needed to anneal it a few times to get it thin enough .020" the next picture shows the sequence to make these new blocks this time the wood is South American boxwood or Castello I cut some strips that were 5/8" wide by 3/32" thick then I stripped off a 1/8" strip from it. the wide section had a 1/8th x .025" trough cut down the center. they are just visible on the left side.
Beginning on the right side 
1) wood blanks cut from the strips, sheave cut from 3/8 brass rod bored out to .054", and flattened copper.
2) the wood has been glued together with Tightbond III glue, the copper as been folded by hand around a 3/32" steel rod.
3) the copper was pinched in the vice with a slab of 3/32" brass filler between the flattened ends and the 3/32" steel rod as the guide for depth.
4) the copper was slipped into the slots in the assembled block, and then drilled through with a .046" bit this hole was then opened up gradually with the tapered reamer which was held in a small three jaw chuck to save my fingers from getting blistered from twisting the small knurled handle of the reamer.
5) after the hole was drilled the copper was pulled out again and the elipse template was used to draw the shape of the block, which was then cut out with the jewelers saw.
6 is the final block after using a holder to sand and shape the individual blocks.
 

 
This is the small holder made from the same stock thickness as the layers of the block.
 

 
And finally three of the blocks they are not identical and I am OK with that as I make more they will become more consistent.
 

 
Michael 
 
 
 

glad I'm not having to get paid for this, I would be working for nothing. I have spent almost two days mucking about with making strops and thimbles for a block or two to hoist the topmast I will need to do a bunch more work on the main mast to fit sheaves and fittings for attaching blocks. I will also need to do some more shaping so that the rope doesn't bind when going through the bolster fitting.

 

 

 

 

 

 
The thimbe in the rope was spiced some time ago so I did not have to do it. the rope and shackles are temporary so that i can sort out the shape and where to lay the fall.
 
Michael

I worked on the topmast today and that led to reading up on the topmast shrouds and so a cross tree was made out of some fine grained Pine.
 
the first picture shows the new spreaders for the topmast shrouds.
 

 
When I machined the hole for the bottom sheave to set up the hoisting rig I did not get the hole right, it was too long ans off centre so I cut a new stick and decided to cut in the sheave slot before shaping it. screw up #2 I made the slot the same length.
 

 
I embarked on stick #3 this one from some really nice clear spruce I got the bottom sheave done correctly and then started to shape the topmast.
 

 
Using the drafting template for roundness once i got close to the diameter I needed, I began the task of final fitting in order to reach I rolled over the other bench as a platform to stand on.
 

 
This made the fitting easier.
 

 
The topmast has to rise up high enough for the sheave to clear the bolster and leave enough room for the fid. There were a lot of fitting trials befor the sheave cleared. and I seemed to have a problem nearing the finish, then it occurred to me that I was hitting the ceiling because I had left the topmast a little longer. One i removed about 1/2 inch from the top I was able to hoist the mast high enough.
 

 
Feels a bit precarious working up so high.
 

 

 
and an overall shot of the days work.
 

 
That's all for now
 
Michael

I began with 3 per side to establish even stability..then I finished off each side.

Thanks Popeye..very much.  I've been quite busy making (For my wife), a double(corner) mantle for the living room fire place with recessed lighting to illuminate the brick....so that has kept me away.  I hope to begin the shrouds very soon.
 
Rob