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TBlack

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About TBlack

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    Maynard, MA

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  1. These "T's" were altered many times over their lifespan, so the model will represent a particular time period in its life. The box that you are calling an armored conning station was the captain's sea cabin on our ship (1123) with the conning station above that. I was going to add, "nice work so far", but we've seen the finished product and the delighted recipient. Tom
  2. My Navy service was aboard LST 1123, a slightly later version of your model, but still of the 542 class. Naturally I’ll be following along. Tom
  3. OK, OK, this thread has caught my imagination, not to mention that it’s another Keith Black original. I’m in! Tom
  4. Hank, you might ask Dave Lester how he did it on his model. Tom
  5. Surface sonar? I thought sonar was underwater. Perhaps my ignorance, I’m amphibs. Tom
  6. Jack, As everyone else on this forum by now knows, mom loved Keith best, he being the baby of the family. And all you have to do is look at our respective build logs to see Keith’s marvelous accomplishments
  7. Jack, My brother, Keith, is the hippie. And the better modeler. I'm a little more buttoned down, being the older. But I'm also a Navy vet (engineering & navigation). Petty officer? love to know which dept. Tom Black
  8. Phil, Your memory of who did what with what, plus where various equipment was attached and their model numbers is quite remarkable. You must have been an excellent junior officer. I imagine that your DD214 is festooned with compliments. Tom
  9. If the vessel had been altered post launch, frammed, I guess, would that show up?
  10. Those plans you have must be very detailed, if they tell you how wide the grout is and the precise shade of paint.
  11. Main top stays in place. Couple of observations here: Making a mouse is an art beyond me. others have tried and they come out a little large. I decided to save time and just use the beads included in the kit: I was correct that the main top stay can be assembled off the model and installed. No problem there. Can't be done with the preventer stay as it has to pass down through the fore top and won't fit if the fiddle block is on the end of the stay. Found that out the hard way. Anyway, they are both ultimately secured to hooks and eyes at the foot of the foremast. Try and find them in this forest!
  12. As to the main topmast stay and preventer, I'm going to try something different. The plan calls for a double block at the end of the stay where in goes to the deck. My muse (Delf), has substituted that fixture with a fiddle block. I don't know why, but I have about 15 fiddle blocks that I got from Chris way back when, so I don't remember why I bought them. Un any event I thought i would follow Delf's example and use a fiddle block there at the end as well. Also, I think I can assemble the main top stay off the boat and then attach. Maybe a little easier? Main top stay goes first because it runs through a block attached to the foremast below the hounds whereas the preventer stay goes through a block attached above at the doubling. Notice the block with the hook in the upper left. Its lanyard needs rigging through the fiddle block and then the whole assembly can be mounted on the ship.
  13. I'm sure Chris will be able to fill in the blanks. If not, let me know by PM. This can be remedied. Tblack
  14. Steve, I love your attempt to save money, but I find that if you go to a shop in CA that deals in trophies, you will find that they can engrave a wonderful plaque for your model for not too much money. Tom
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