TBlack

Thank you to all for the comments, likes and for following along.
 
 Quick update.
 
 The main's channel shrouds are done. The little 3mm deadeyes (far left) are crazy small to lace and attach. I'm glad there are only two per mast.   
 
 Other than weaving the main's channel shroud ratlines and attaching the main yard with both lifts and braces, from the main mast aft all the rigging is done. 

 
 Thank you again to all of you for your thoughtfulness.
 
  Keith

More planking progress:-
 
As you can see below this is the 8th row (and final row) of parallel planks.

I decided to do a bit of measuring. Firstly I placed a pins, equi-spaced from the keel, about 1/6 of the length from bow and stern. Between these pins I stretched a taught line. I then used this line to place a series of additional pins.


I then measured the curved distance between the line and the 8th plank at 3 positions - front pin, maximum beam and rear pin. I then worked out the ratios of the measured distances.
 
At the front pin the length was half the length at maximum beam, so I concluded that the planks needed to be tapered to half width towards the bow.

At the rear pin the curved distance was circa 2/3 the measurement at maximum beam and hence I concluded that the planks needed to taper to 2/3 of their width at the stern.

Before continuing with taper planking I decided to reinforce the planks in the area of the engine room. The engine room interior walls appear to be steel (inner surface of hull plates). I therefore needed to hide the planks anyway. The interior side of the planks can just be seen in the next shot.


I cut strips of 1/32" ply to fit between the frames.


Having cut all the ply strips they were glued in place using PVA glue.

That's all for now friends.

I used to make the beds on our schooner years ago; skills honed in Navy training camp. I’d be happy to show you my technique when next I’m in the Old Country!

Keith, you’re doing great. Keep plowing ahead! Eye sight is an issue, but how about shaky hands?

Thank you, brother Tom. I got the shaky hand syndrome also, another reason to sally forth. It's a real challenge to reach into the midst of the center rigging with a tiny drop of CA to fix a shroud knot. I almost get dizzy watching the end of the needle. 

I used to make the beds on our schooner years ago; skills honed in Navy training camp. I’d be happy to show you my technique when next I’m in the Old Country!

Keith, you’re doing great. Keep plowing ahead! Eye sight is an issue, but how about shaky hands?

Tom - thanks for the offer but I fear the pupil is the problem:-
 
To relay the full conversation.
 
Wife - if you had someone who despite being instructed many times, still failed to do a task correctly, what would you do?
 
Me - I think I would impress upon them the reason for the task and the consequences of doing it wrong. Then I would show them how to do it again while emphasising the outcome for themselves if their performance continues to be inadequate.
 
Wife - Right I will show you how to make the bed one last time!
 

Keith, you’re doing great. Keep plowing ahead! Eye sight is an issue, but how about shaky hands?

I used to make the beds on our schooner years ago; skills honed in Navy training camp. I’d be happy to show you my technique when next I’m in the Old Country!

Keith, you’re doing great. Keep plowing ahead! Eye sight is an issue, but how about shaky hands?

I used to make the beds on our schooner years ago; skills honed in Navy training camp. I’d be happy to show you my technique when next I’m in the Old Country!

Good point, as I hadn't noticed the deadeye until it was pointed out and I looked again closely ('Just ordered new glasses because my prescription changed, but it will take 1 - 2 weeks to get them).  'Guess Keith and I share a couple traits, since on a Pennsylvania long rifle I made (and was showing to some new friends recently) - I kept pointing all the things I 'did wrong' (mostly small details).  A man with some expertise in antique firearms said to forget real or imagined 'faults' - he thought it was beautifully done ... as is Keith's U.S.S. Tennessee ! 

Thank you to all for the likes and for following along.
 
 Maggie update.....her progress has slowed these past two weeks due to an infection but hopefully once that clears she'll continue making strides in her recovery. Thank you again to each of you for your prayers and thoughts for her,
 
 I've been able to make some limited progress on the Tennessee's main shrouds. I look back with envy at those days when when I was able to devote eight hours plus at the worktable. I should have worked longer hours back then as now my eyesight for close work is diminishing. I've always been a bit of a perfectionist and so naturally my mindset when I first started working on the Tennessee was get it done as perfect as possible. Because the grains of sand drain ever faster my mindset now is, better quit messing about and get it done. It was never going to be perfect, I no longer have the luxury of tilting at windmills.     
 
 Notice the loupe among the tools used for running the shrouds. I had to start using the loupe to check my work on the deadeye lashings as on one pair I ran the line through the same hole twice. I didn't catch this till after the deadeyes were glued in place and the shroud line attached. Once upon a time I would have redone it, now, I let er fly. I don't think anyone will ever notice and I really can't tell and I know which pair it is. But it nags at me, so be it. 
 
I went back through the log and I couldn't find where I explained the how and why I lash the deadeye pairs off ship. The reason being the deadeyes are too small and there just isn't the room. 
 
 The main's channel shrouds requires the measurement from one deadeye top the the other deadeye top to be 0.70 inches, same size as a US penny. To keep the size constant I've superglued the rotating adjust balls of the third hand to keep the distance fixed. That way I don't have to use a ruler to check each pair though I do spot check to make sure the adjustment is still set correctly. 

 
Starboard side. Try as hard as I might, I can't seem to get em perfect aligned. Oh well, more shadows in the wind.  

 
 Port side. The second pair in from the left is the pair where I ran the line through the same hole twice, top deadeye, top hole. I've always intended for the model to be viewed from the starboard side so it was pretty easy 'let it fly' rationalization.
 
 Nine more pair of deadeyes and shroud lines and I can set about with ratline weaving.
 
 Again, thank you to all.  

For scuppers: My method (waterway in place) is, first accurate mark-out both inboard and out. Drill with a very small diameter bit from both sides. Hopefully the holes will meet - at least partially. Then progressively enlarge using larger diameter bits and needle files, making minor corrections as you go until you reach the diameter of the scupper.
 
I've not drilled hawseholes in years. I file the half-holes in the hawse pieced before assembly. Again, I make them slightly under final size, then file them out once planking is complete.

There are several holes in the top, which are marked in the picture below.  On the curved rim are eleven holes for the crow’s feet:  two between each slat and one through it.  There are three rectangular openings on each side rim for the futtock plates.  The four marks on the aft rim are for the railing stanchions.  Finally, there are four openings on either side of the center opening for the buntline and leechline blocks. 

Futtock plates are the metal straps that surround the lower topmast deadeyes.  The topmast shrouds are two-thirds the size of the lower mast shouds.  The deadeyes are 3” thick and 6” in diameter.  The futtock plate is one-third the thickness of the deadeye and three times its diameter long.  At 1:48 scale, that would be .02” x 0.375”.  They were made from 22 gauge wire.
 
The sequence of construction can be seen in the photo.  First, heat-soften the metal and wrap a piece around the deadeye.  Remove the deadeye and solder the ends of the two legs together.  Reinsert the deadeye to confirm the location of the throat and mark it with a Sharpie.  Determine the correct length for the plate by measuring 0.375” down from the throat and mark this measurement as well.  Remove the deadeye and  solder the legs together closer to the throat.  File the legs flat and cut the legs to the correct length.  Round off the end and drill a hole for a hook to insert into.  Pickle the plate and insert the deadeye.  Hammer or squeeze the legs of the futtock plate together for a snug fit and blacken. 

The holes in the top were enlarged and the plates were temporarily inserted.

Before the futtock shrouds can be installed, eight blocks must be stropped and installed on the undersurface of the top.  All my blocks are made of boxwood.  Blocks are not commercially available for all sizes.  For example, the quarter and truss pendant blocks should be 6.5 mm but the closest available block is only 5mm.  A good reason to learn how to make your own blocks!  The kit comes complete with all of the necessary blocks except the jeer blocks, which the modeler will learn how to make. 
 
Determining the dimensions of blocks is not difficult; all you need to know is the size of the line that passes through it.  The width of the sheave opening is 116% the diameter of the line.  For simplicity, call that  “1”.  The relative dimensions are as seen in the drawing below.  The only difference between a single and a double or triple block is/are the spacers between the sheaves The size of the strop grooves on the sides of the block varied; the relative size of the strop decreased as the size of the block  increased.
  
 
There are four leech line and four bunt line double blocks mounted under the top.  The bunt line blocks are closer to the center opening and the leech line blocks are closer to the rim.  The difference in the size of the blocks is small, so the kit will use the same size blocks for both.  They are secured to the top with a strop and peg.  To make the strop, I took a piece of 1” rope and untwisted both ends.  I cut across each untwisted end diagonally to decrease the thickness of the splice, wrapped the two ends together and glued the splice.  A simple knot was placed over the splice.  The block was inserted into the strop and secured with a throat seizing, hiding the splice.
 
The openings in the top were enlarged with a #11 blade, working from both sides of the top.  A thread was passed through the strop loop and both ends of the thread were inserted through the under surface of the top, pulling the strop through the top.  Wood pegs were used to hold the strops in place.  The futtock plates were inserted through the openings in the rim.

Seeing the results of your work, Chuck, one would not think that there are any modeling tasks that could possibly terrify you.

I’m impressed with your ability to draw those green lines so accurately.
Tom

I’m impressed with your ability to draw those green lines so accurately.
Tom

I’m impressed with your ability to draw those green lines so accurately.
Tom

I’m impressed with your ability to draw those green lines so accurately.
Tom

I’m impressed with your ability to draw those green lines so accurately.
Tom

I’m impressed with your ability to draw those green lines so accurately.
Tom

Hello,
the wheels are mostly ready. The paint would't dry, so it took a lot longer then normal. I don't know why 🤔

and that is what you will see when the mast is installed. When there also the binnacle stand in front of the mast, you will see nearly nothing of the wheels 

So, here they are in there full beauty 

But there is also a last problem. The rope to the tiller. In the drawing for the 1745 establishment they draw there something what I interpret as coamings with a lid. Most models have there nothing, or just two wholes in the deck, where the rope disappeared. 
I would at least build it so, but not so large and with two slits for the rope. But not with these sliding foots. I think, that they where a later innovation. But may be, someone of you know there more. 
  
 

Much better. On the Vanguard website you can see a picture of them.
Tom