JPZ66

M, Sadly, I have no pictures at the moment and all of my modeling projects, tools and supplies are packed away. I will see if I can find some older photos and post... Once I get moved and all set up in the new shop, I will definately revisit this topic with new photos for posting here. - Joe

Piet, What an amazing build and an even more amazing history that led you to this point. The model looks fantastic. Your father would be proud indeed ! Can't wait to see the completed model. Cheers, Joe

Oh...I should like to add that there are some low temp melting metals available (can actually melt on a stove top) for use in silicone molds, and there are also high temp resistant rtv silicones available ( I have often used these to protoytpe with ) for casting metal. -Joe

Re: how to mold for a resin casting.... First, a couple of questions....how big are the parts ? ( perhaps you can post photos of the item in question?) Next, if it is railing, would you be able to perhaps scratchbuild the item in brass ? I'm not sure that railing or any exposed delicate part is best suited for resin.... That being said, there are a few ways to go about reproducing a part in resin. For something small, it is quite possible to use an 'off the shelf' tube of 1 part RTV silicone, such as silicone caulking to create a very simple 1 part molld - if the part is small and not overly 3 dimensional. It can escalate quickly from here though ! If the part is larger or more complex, you may need a proper mold making silicone, such as Silicones Inc GI-650. A two-part silicone, and while possible to make decent molds without vacuum degassing, it is always best to degas the silicone after mixing, before pouring. I did see in the articles section here, a fairly simple tutorial about mold making.... At any rate, getting into something more detailed about setting up quality molds and casting processes is something beyond a simple reply here, and if you should desire a detailed overview of this, feel free to contact me via message. Some years ago, I had a shop and was producing kits and parts for a number of smaller companies. In addition to resin casting, I also did pewter production castings..... I hope to one day return to that at least on a part time basis. I might even consider a mold making service that would provide the end user with a quality working mold they can then use to make their own castings from..... I do think that a number of folks might benefit from a more detailed and comprehensive article about the process and at some point in the future I will write something up and submit it for review. Unfortunately all of my equipment and such is put away and will likely not be useable for many months yet, as I am preparing to move. -Joe

Vivian, I have just started from the beginning and read all through your log. Very very nice looking ship ! Well Done !! I have never built something from this period, but now seeing your wonderful looking model, I am rather interested ! I really love the finish you achieved as well. Another thing that I have really enjoyed with your log is the way you approach the project and the joy it brings you that you have so beautifully shared here. Thank you. -Joe

It really all depends on what the metal is.... I used to cast pewter parts, and it was maleable enough in smaller diameters that it could in fact be bent or straightened in many cases....stanchions, gun barrels, etc. As the thickness becomes greater, it becomes much more difficult. Heat, is not likely to help the cast metal part, and may possibly melt it ! Some casting metals have a low melt temp. It may also be possible, depending on just what the part is, to hammer it using a jewelers hammer and anvil. Sometimes you may want to use a piece of hardwood against the part, and strike that with the hammer. If you think the part may be a loss, you may as well try some experiments ! -Joe PS- often times, if the metal was cast at too high a temperature, it will become too brittle and there really isn't much you can do.

There are many ways to approach weathering...... Typically I will work all of the finish coats of a painted subject in something solvent based. This way I can go back over later with washes or highlighting in water based paints.... As for using the pastel chalks, which I love, they need something to grab, so a good coat of 'flat' airbrushed on, then use the ground pastel chalks. As has been noted, you can use the ground pastel chalk mixed into a medium...be it paint or thinned glue to create much heavier textures....this can be used for built up mud, rust, algae, etc..... You must be delicate when sealing these with the final spray of gloss or semi-gloss as it tends to 'mute' the effect somewhat.....experiment and you will soon develop a technique that you like. A local craft or art store usually has the large box selection with a broad range of colors for a reasonable price, and the chalk sticks will last a very long time if only used as weathering agents !