Mike Dowling

OK matey, I get the picture ! Your scheme is fine as long as you have room to get one deadeye through the lubbers hole!!! I think to be honest, having had another look at my Bounty, that I am going to go back to my original 'twist and glue' method. It may not be politically correct but it works for me and in the end, by the time you have secured the final end of the lanyards by wrapping round, no-one except the perfectionists out there would know the difference !!!
 
None the less I am very grateful for your efforts and I am quite sure it will be very useful to other members who are more PC than I.
 
You have become far more of an expert than I, even if you profess to being a beginner. I would remind all budding boat builders out there that paddle steamers and stage coaches do not have any significant rigging to worry about !!!
 
You are an absolute Gent Boyd for your assistance, I just have to accept that you are a better model ship builder than I.

Just finished reading your log, this is a great build, I also like natural wood colours so find this build of particular interest.

Don't despair, you have and do help a great deal. Many thanks about the book, I will have a look for that.

Don't despair, you have and do help a great deal. Many thanks about the book, I will have a look for that.

I forgot to drill the holes in my swivel gun posts too!  

Swivel Gun Stocks.
Well the shipyard pushed ahead and has completed the Port & Starboard Swivel Gun Stocks. Although in the haste, forgot to drill the holes in the top to mount the little cannon. Bad boy !
 
I'm happy they have come up ok.
 
Pat. thanks for that PVA glue tip. I used a 50/50(PVA/water) mix that disappeared quickly(absorbed), and dry quickly. I have not painted the cardboard.
 
Onto making the hinge sets for the aft cabin side shutters.
Then will glue the decal on.
 
Slow and steady...
 
Dave R

BTW - both Artesania and CP have it wrong for the Jeers. They go like through the Lubber Hole. Here are a series of pics of my Vulture showing the correct attachment :
 

 

 

 

 
However, feel free to do it CP's way - no-one said that Artesania have it right all time, there will be more discrepancies with authenticity .
 
  Danny

Al,
 
Very clean work on your part      

If all the pieces fit perfectly, you can work in sections... If you think it is appropriate and more easy place the full mast, no problem.
In my case, the pieces fit perfectly and do not need any type of glue, but you have to be precise..
Another thing to bear in mind and above all, is to have more space to work comfortably,do not place the Rails in the tops, do it to last to prevent damage.
 
Edit:(Tip) When you do the tops of the main mast and foremast, leave a square space for maneuver that held the yard. Because there is not enough space near the masts

You're doing a good job and this is the part that I like most.
 
It is better to take your time studying each part and its function, to not regret later..
Another thing that will make your work more easy is to put only the first part of the mast on the ship, this greatly facilitates the placement of the shrouds and other maneuvers.

Mike
 
I,m always glad to help in any way as others have helped me even without knowing it . I thank you for your interest as i know i don,t always explain my methods well ,mainly cause they don,t always work !!!!  I left the top of my mast clear so i can slip the finished  shrouds on and off easily, it would certainly be more difficult to tie the deadeyes with the shrouds fixed   .I think thats where we differ .
The book i took the diagram from is the Period ship Handbook by Keith Julier ,I bought it because it has an accessment on the CC Victory kit and a step by step guide to building it . To be honest it was not much use to me as the Billings kit is very different . A book i would recomend is Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini , deals with most aspects of model building rather than individual kits.  

OK matey, I get the picture ! Your scheme is fine as long as you have room to get one deadeye through the lubbers hole!!! I think to be honest, having had another look at my Bounty, that I am going to go back to my original 'twist and glue' method. It may not be politically correct but it works for me and in the end, by the time you have secured the final end of the lanyards by wrapping round, no-one except the perfectionists out there would know the difference !!!
 
None the less I am very grateful for your efforts and I am quite sure it will be very useful to other members who are more PC than I.
 
You have become far more of an expert than I, even if you profess to being a beginner. I would remind all budding boat builders out there that paddle steamers and stage coaches do not have any significant rigging to worry about !!!
 
You are an absolute Gent Boyd for your assistance, I just have to accept that you are a better model ship builder than I.

PS. What is the book you are using for reference ? The diagrams look good !

OK matey, I get the picture ! Your scheme is fine as long as you have room to get one deadeye through the lubbers hole!!! I think to be honest, having had another look at my Bounty, that I am going to go back to my original 'twist and glue' method. It may not be politically correct but it works for me and in the end, by the time you have secured the final end of the lanyards by wrapping round, no-one except the perfectionists out there would know the difference !!!
 
None the less I am very grateful for your efforts and I am quite sure it will be very useful to other members who are more PC than I.
 
You have become far more of an expert than I, even if you profess to being a beginner. I would remind all budding boat builders out there that paddle steamers and stage coaches do not have any significant rigging to worry about !!!
 
You are an absolute Gent Boyd for your assistance, I just have to accept that you are a better model ship builder than I.

You're not the only one confused by the detail of these mast structures and finding no help in A.L.'s instructions.  Reading plans is very hard for me but I'm gradually getting better at it.   If you hold off a bit on adding those confusing details I will try to update my log specifically on that topic.  I'm going to take some pictures (my modelling is better than my photography) and hopefully they serve to show what I believe is each piece and where it goes.  Watch for this update in the next couple days.

Excellent demonstration my friend and very much what I had finally come up with. Now, this is fine for the 'free end' on the desk as it were but, how on earth do you manage that with the other end which is dangling from the mast ?

You are doing an incredible job with a bad kit. Making a silk purse out of a pigs ear.  Most Vics I have seen have been painted you are doing a fine job going natural keep having fun.
David B

Maybe I am just being a 'plank' about all this but, while we are here, what do you do with the ends of the lanyards ? I know the final end raps round the shroud but what about the other end ?
I am sure I am not the only one with problems about these beasties !

Excellent demonstration my friend and very much what I had finally come up with. Now, this is fine for the 'free end' on the desk as it were but, how on earth do you manage that with the other end which is dangling from the mast ?

GG,
 
As you continue on; be sure to check the alignment of anything (e.g. masts, bilge pipes, etc) that runs through the center of the ship from the main deck.
 
Now that you're getting ready to install the middle deck cross beams.  While you can easily access it, be sure to put notches for the bilge pipes in crossbeam 49 (frame 34). The notches will align with holes in the middle and main decks. I believe crossbeam 160 (main deck level) needs notches as well. 
 
FYI - I used the middle and main decks for testing alignment on a regular basis.  You might want to consider building your middle decks sooner than later.
 
One other heads up just in case you didn't notice, all but one of the main deck cross beams are precut with a curvature for water run off (unlike the lower level beams you must cut yourself). 
 
See the notches in cross beam 49 (I actually notched it before gluing it in)

Many thanks for all that Boyd. My remaining question is, how do you manage to keep the loop of thread around the top deadeye when you are doing the seizing? It may also be of interest to others that both the boat builds I have done/am doing have chain fastenings below the bottom dead eye rather than solid ones but the principal is the same.

Hello GG. Looking good.
For gluing bare wood to bare wood, nothing beats wood glue.  
Titebond, Elmer's and Gorilla have excellent wood glues.
As for the nails, it is up to you. The easiest way in my opinion, to simulate nails, is just punch a tiny hole on the wood. When you sand using a very fine grade of sandpaper, the dust fills the holes, and when you apply the varnish, they usually come darker. 
 
Hope this helps.

I rebuilt my deck with plywood from Michaels . Watt is the best glue for planking the cabins wall and do you put some nails like the photos in manuel?

This post was prompted by a request to further explain my rigging of deadeyes and i must admit when i looked back over my log my previous post on that stage where slightly confusing with my many wandering ideas . As i am at the rigging stage at present it seemed a good idea to explain more full my method and hope it may be usefull to others who like myself have not mastered soldering . Excuse the many pics but i find it the best way to explain .
 

 
this is .5 mm coated brass wire ,any finer may not hold it,s shape , any stronger is too hard to bend . once you have the correct length they are simple to mass produce .
 

 

 
the 2 ends are pushed past each other which leaves a double thickness at the bottom of the hook 
 


this then fits snugly into the slot in the channels 
 

I then drilled and put a very fine pin in to hold the deadeye in place and take the pressure of the chainplates 
 

the cap on the channels then covers everything 
 



the first link of the chainplates is then hooked in and the end closed in , No solder was used at this stage either as the pin inserted earlier will take the pressure of the chain , I hope .
 

The top deadeye was measured for length using the simple tool and then siezed in place 
I didn,t worry about leaving a small space at the top of the deadeye as it turned out usefull when finishing tieing the lanyards . 2 further seizings finished the process 
 


The 2 on the left have been trimed and are hopefully finished .When tieing off the lanyards i brought the line through the space between the deadeye end the first seizing on the shrouds , this kept it in line and ment the final tieing is on the back of the deadeye . Hope that makes sence ? I,m pleased to say that the solderless stroups held up under the strain of tightening the shrouds so i think i can safely say they work !!!!     Any further expanation needed i will gladly provide ?
 
last 2 pics show the mainstays from the missen mast ,i have been warned they are better fitted now than when the shrouds are on the mainmast .

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I gave up and bought a scroll saw that made the job easier.
David B