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ChrisLBren

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Everything posted by ChrisLBren

  1. Not at all Mark ! Druxey I did do a bit of pre fairing on both bow and stern but there's still an enormous time consuming job ahead of me. With this hulls extreme tumblehome it makes things even more tricky. I really want to try to use my gooseneck scraper to do a lot of the heavy lifting here - I dont have a ton of experience with this tool but the finish looks better than sanding and with less dust.
  2. Thanks J - I build almost exclusively in pear. On this one there will be some boxwood trim and carvings and black hornbeam for wales etc
  3. The crossbeams are removed to access the interior for framing. Lots of sandpaper and elbow grease ahead of me... I did make a correction to the fashion pieces at the stern, they are now aligned properly.
  4. Thanks for the likes gentlemen ! And appreciate your comments Chuck and Druxey - as you both know from past posts this has been a goal of mine for quite some time to build scratch build a fully framed model. There's still a ton of work ahead of me including next up - fairing the hull, interior first - which is always a "pleasure"
  5. Update after 8 months of work - all frames are installed and the stern is coming together !
  6. Thanks Druxey ! I have paused the installation of frames at 49 and turn my attention to the wing transom and transom frames. I need room to work with these tricky components.
  7. Thanks guys - this one truly is a labor of love as I have been enamored of this frigate and her lines for quite awhile. This is also my first fully framed build that has progressed this far. As far as frame construction I simply cut the patterns, glue them onto a pear blank in this case 4.65mm thick and cut out the parts with a margin of 1mm with the exception of the joint line which is right on it using my disc sander. I place one of the patterns on a glass sheet and glue the first layer of parts at the joints and follow it by the laminating the second layer on top paying close attention that the joint lines are perfect and aligned. Then another plate of glass is placed on top for 24 hours while it dries. The finished frame is then cleaned up with an oscillating sander. As I continue to install frames I am getting a reject here or there so I will take photos next time I have to remake one.
  8. Installation continues thru frame 32 notice the frames reverse at frame 30.
  9. I cant believe how good you have made that kit look. Its a seriously impressive model - congrats !!!!
  10. Frames 2-6 installed - roughly faired - no low spots so far !
  11. Once the hull is ready for planking, I will sand the rabbet to widen and gently flow into the hawse timbers. Make sense ?
  12. Thanks Brad - believe me there's flaws but nice to hear it looks perfect. Glad to be moving on finally
  13. Corrections made - after more times than I can count to get this assembly aligned and built to my satisfaction - I am ready to move on at last
  14. Thanks Brad and Greg. I will still use my electric file - just on parts off the model... I already disassembled the keel and hawse timbers and have built a new frame 1 - which I believe was the issue. As you mentioned Greg, this time it will be much faster as I built these assemblies before. Look forward to seeing you latest update Brad !
  15. Thanks D - its not even about appearance here but alignment. Frame one sets up the rest of the frames. I think Frame 1 is the culprit as I built the hawse timbers many times with the same alignment issues. While I appreciate your suggestion Ben to move on to somewhere else I want to get this done by applying the lessons I have learned. As boring as it can be to do the same assembly yet again, as least it will take half the time.
  16. I still cant get these hawse timbers right after multiple attempts and working on the same assembly for two months. I made sure to get frame one aligned properly and after installing the hawse timbers (which I can never get to mirror eachother perfectly) it thru off the first frame. And after fairing the interior of the frame my electric file slipped. I probably have no other choice but starting again for the umpteenth time on this frame and hawse timbers. Maybe some of it can be salvaged. So frustrating.
  17. Wow - amazing work. Look forward to following along Tuvok !
  18. Looks great Chuck - congrats on the new space. I might want to pick up some of those LED lights - can you share the link ? Thanks Chris
  19. Thanks Brad - I may try nickel wire to see if I like that appearance better than brass and then make a decision. Greg, I just used a standard blade that I use for the most part that the late Jim Byrnes included when he serviced my saw a few years back - same one I use for ripping planks and most of my cuts. Honestly its seems a lot scarier of an operation after all that milling than it is. The biggest tip is to make sure to accurately line up the cut - you cut too narrow and the milled parts are fragile and useless - you go to thick its really hard to reduce it to a thinner/proper thickness.
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