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ChrisLBren

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Everything posted by ChrisLBren

  1. ChrisLBren
    Keel section is complete (and shortened a wee bit on plan sheet 4 - its one of the only errors in the Mono)- thanks to the Taig for the rabbet, and a lot of hand sanding. Next up the wing transom and tricky stern parts.
  2. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Patrick ! And for all of the likes everyone.
  3. ChrisLBren
    Good Morning ! The construction site is now completed. It is composed of a Melamine board 48 by 16 by 3/4 thick I liquid nailed to 1/1/4 Red Oak Stair Balusters. It is dead level. The rest of the structure is 3/4 MDF and 1/4 MDF for the upper platform with the usual 1/4 threaded rods. I abandoned both the 3/4 inch birch plywood board screwed into the same oak balusters - it was not as level - and a 3/4 thick MDF board glued to 3/4 square battens. I will use the 3/4 MDF as a moveable platform for the plans. My Taig milled arrived this week as well. I chose the Taig as I was able to purchase a refurbished unit with the same warranty as new for a discount to list. It comes stock to run at 10000rpm to cut wood with the upgraded motor. I love its weight as 80lbs and the x travels a full 12 inches. Its an amazing tool built with the same craftsmanship as my Byrnes machines. Most of the Sherline accessories will fit it. While not necessary to build this ship (I do love collecting tools though!) - it will certainly make the complicated and large structures of the bow and stern at this scale hopefully easier to realize. Its first task will be to cut the rabbets into the keel parts.
  4. ChrisLBren
    Hey Group, I am currently building a 48 inch long by 16 inch wide build board for LGV. Both the 3/4 inch birch ply and 3/4 inch MDF are not dead flat. I am hoping that by screwing either board into 3 inch by 1 inch battens on the underside it will remain flat. Does one board over the other have an advantage as far as no future warpage ? Also it is my understanding that sinking screws into MDF may not be the best idea - I could be wrong here. Thanks
  5. ChrisLBren
    Wow very very nice Tobias !!!!
  6. ChrisLBren
    Thanks so much - this is exactly what Ive been looking for. Im going to order it now.
  7. ChrisLBren
    I have seen a few logs that have a tilting mount adapted for the MF70 and its vise. From my search on the web most tilting vises sold commercially are too high (3 and 1/2 inches is the lowest I have found) to work well with the MF70's range. So I am assuming most of these mounts are home made. I would want to purchase one and would be happy to pay for materials and labor for anyone who could build one of these of me. I am sure this item would be in demand by many other modelers on this site who own the MF70. Please feel free to PM or post. I do have a design already drawn up with specs. Thanks, Chris
  8. ChrisLBren
    Nice work Tobias !!!!
  9. ChrisLBren
    Thanks for the replies everyone - I believe I can make due with my existing mill to complete the keel parts on my LGV. I would like to have own one for the more complex assemblies of the bow and stern parts. A tilting table, vice, DRO and a mill that reaches 10000 rpm is necessary from the posts I have read so far. Any additional thoughts are appreciated. No problem about "highjacking" this thread re wood supply. I bought a flitch of Pear wood a few years back and had a local cabinet shop reduce it to useable boards in 3/8, 1/4 and 3/16. I then dimension to spec with both the Proxxon planer and Byrnes Thickness Sander. I have a nice supply, however, I did burn thru a lot of wood for the frames. I cant imagine how much waste would have resulted using the "Hahn" method.
  10. ChrisLBren
    After 2 months of consistent work - 63 frames are cut and assembled and ready for sanding/bevels. One partial stern frame remains to be assembled later. I need to tweak both the stern keel parts to make sure everything fits snug and re do bow parts part h and i. Then to cut the rabbet. Thanks for stopping by.
  11. ChrisLBren
    Hi Group, I am considering making an investment here soon. Currently I use a Proxxon MF70 which is a great little machine - however I am now building in 1/36th plank on frame for the foreseeable future. I picked up an Emco Unimat 3 a couple years ago from a member of this site which I will set up as my lathe and want a bigger dedicated mill. It seems the models that are most mentioned here are Sherline series or the Proxxon FF230. I need the ability of a tilting table and or vise for either choice. Most swear by Sherline - would love thoughts as to model and accessories needed for my specific needs of larger scale/complicated assemblies. Sorry if my question here is redundant or been addressed. Black Friday is approaching - so I am curious if either would potentially go on sale based on past history. Thanks
  12. ChrisLBren
    Looking good Tobias ! After building frames/bolting them and keel parts for so many months on one of these builds - finally gluing the frames is commitment (and scary...)
  13. ChrisLBren
    I would love a PM of his email address too - thanks so much ! Chris
  14. ChrisLBren
    Incredible work at this scale - amazing !!!
  15. ChrisLBren
    Happy Labor Day group. Quick update - halfway there - 32 frames of 64 completed (each consisting of 12 parts). I am very happy I bought a flitch of Pear back in 2017 as the price has doubled and framing consumes quite a bit of wood at this scale.
  16. ChrisLBren
    Thanks for the tips everyone. As a matter of fact just finished reducing some pear 1mm for more frames (32 completed and counting). I used a combination of the Proxxon Planer and Brynes thickness sander for the final .5mm. Cutting the boards in half to 12 inch lengths helped as well as being conscious of the feed rate and applying constant pressure to the board on the feed table. It worked great - my sander has course paper on one side which I used to get the billet to almost final dimension and finished with the other fine side.
  17. ChrisLBren
    I have been folllowing your buiild logs on the ANCRE site for years. Welcome to MSW - your art is truly maginificient and inspiring.
  18. ChrisLBren
    Hi Group, I would appreciate some operational tips here. I am sure this is my fault not the tools - sometimes I am experiencing dips inthe 2 inch wide by 24 inch long plank I am dimensioning (probably from the drum of the sander). Usually they only about a 1/8 of an inch wide or so accross the plank so I cut around my parts around it which wastes wood. Is this a feed issue or am I trying to take off too much wood in one swipe ? I am reducing boards approx 6.75 mm thick to 5.6 mm final dimension. Thanks much, Chris
  19. ChrisLBren
    She's looking fantastic !!!!
  20. ChrisLBren
    Thanks guys ! It should be fun to trade ideas building our first Ancre/David A. POF builds
  21. ChrisLBren
    Thanks guys - having a blast with this one so far now that I have some momentum. As far as the clean workspace - its easier to clean as you go vs a big mess - if my kids would just take my advice....
  22. ChrisLBren
    Greetings Group, I restarted this build in earnest beginning of August and have completed 20 frames (roughly 1/3rd of the total frames). The frames have not been sanded or bias added, simply assembled (each frame is 12 parts and stacked) with some extra "fat along the bold line of the frame patterns. I carve out early a couple hours early 430 AM - 630AM before the kids go to school and my day starts - has been working really well so far !
  23. ChrisLBren
    Thanks everyone for the compliments !
  24. ChrisLBren
    Bismarck is completed. All of the electronics work (turrets rotate, elevate, and make firing noise), as well as props, lights and anchors. My kids think its the greatest ship ever - so its going in their room ! It was a fun build but a bit dissapointing considering its price - as you can see - massive fail plastic fail on the main mast while rigging. I used EZ line - not much tension and it buckled. This part should have been made out of metal vs plastic that bends. I am anxious to get back to working with wood on an Ancre build after this year long project. The best thing about this one is it got me out of the modeling doldrums - I am now carving out 2 hours a day early morning in the shop before I start my work day.
  25. ChrisLBren
    Hi Ted, Check out your main mast - its backward. I made the same mistake on my Agora Bismarck and caught in time before I start rigging this weekend. Nice looking model ! Chris

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