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Blue Ensign

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Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. Catching up after my modelling hiatus Michael, and what a feast for the eyes. Wonderful progress and such clean work, the platform, a really tricky thing to get right, you've nailed. Looking back a while, something I'm not a fan of is dummy gun ports, but the ones on your Vasa look excellent, the best I've seen I think. Great stuff. B.E.
  2. I can't think of any more superlatives to describe the artistry of your work Augie, what fine detail you have added, and what a wonderful model. B.E.
  3. Hi Jonathan, just caught up on your build, Rattlesnake is looking splendid, and some nifty work with silver soldering. Regarding the stays being pulled out of alignment by the Crowsfeet, I find it best not to seize off the stays too early in the build, I leave a length of excess lanyard and tweak it as the extra hamper goes on the stay. With the Forestay other things can also impact on it, spritsail braces, bowlines, etc; in a similar vein I also leave tying off the shroud lanyards to a fairly late stage in the build. B.E.
  4. Even the old colour looked different depending on the light conditions, sometimes quite considerably so; on a bright day it looked much paler and the same went for the deck colour. I can't really imagine that artists were confused by light conditions, after all light is their stock-in-trade, and representing light, and shadow, a main component of their art. I'll be interested to see the new font style, wonder if it's similar to the one I used on my Victory model B.E.
  5. Your attention to detail Mark, and your willingness to re-visit work you have already put much time and effort into is what will make your build a great one. Just love the look of her. B.E.
  6. Nice progress Frank, your weathering techniques always make for an interesting model, enjoyed my catch-up of your build B.E.
  7. Pocock certainly was a contemporary artist and an experienced seaman whose depictions were much valued in naval circles for the accuracy of his work. The painting in the previous post is an imaginary compilation of ships in which Nelson served, and some of the tonal differences can be accounted for by shadow/light. By all accounts Pocock was an expert at mixing and achieving tones, albeit he was a self taught painter. I don't have an issue with differing shades of yellow, there are many contemporary written sources indicating use of colours from pale primrose yellow to darker ochres. At least now I have an excuse (if one were needed) to revisit Victory see the effect. I can also take in the newly opened Monitor M33 which lies adjacent to Victory. B.E.
  8. I've still got that nagging doubt in my mind, if the new colour is correct why do so many contemporary paintings show warships of the era with pale yellow sides. Given that they are already daubing the hull with the new shade, I wonder if the colour theme will extend to the lower masts. I have less of an issue with the baby blue, because pastel colours were a feature of the Georgian /Regency era, and it's a short step from duck egg green to baby blue. If the findings are truly correct in this as in many things Nelson was way ahead of his time. British warships were painted a fetching shade of 'Mountbatten' pink camouflage in the Med campaign of WW11. B.E.
  9. Here's the link http://www.itv.com/news/meridian/search/?q=hms+vICTORY Looks like they added a splash of red ochre rather than yellow ochre to the white ground. Don't think I'll be re-visiting my Victory model tho' B.E.
  10. Enjoyed catching up on your build Jason, you're making excellent progress on a complex build, the hull is starting to look very nice. B.E.
  11. Just love your set of boats Ray, what beauties, and what a grand job on Diana, great work B.E.
  12. Can it really be over twelve months since I last caught up with your build Nigel, but it never disappoints to see the ingenuity displayed in your updates. Such wonderful model making and all deriving from one of my favourite Counties, the full package I would say B.E.
  13. Neat work Martin, but I'm getting a bit confused (not difficult these days) with your forwards and afts and block configurations The double block was forward of gp4 (to take the Fore sheet) and the single block was aft of gp2 (to take the Main Tack) ie the single block is forward on the ship but aft of the port, and the double block is aft on the ship but forward of the port. What you seem to have configured is a single sheaved block for the Fore sheets, and a single hole for the Main Tack. Have a look in Vol 11 page 125, and you will see the configurations, the double block has the two sheaves set one above the other. This was my own attempt at the blocks in progress, but having made the separate block for the double, I came the conclusion that faking it with scribed outlines looked no different, so I went with that for the singles. The other consideration I found was that once the topsides were painted and the decoration added I could hardly see the bally things anyway. Cheers, B.E.
  14. Looking good Martin, as you say the Quickworks, (fancy name for the inner planking) runs over the linings, and the Spirketting runs up and covers the stops on the inner side. I drew the line at lining the sweep ports, at only 3.3mm square, it was beyond my tolerance level. Have or are you going to do anything about the foremost Bridle port which should be a little narrower than the gunports? As an oversight I didn't and with the outer planking completed it was too late. B.E.
  15. Hi Lukas, I only rigged the side tackles on the very small Foc'sle and Quarterdeck guns. The only option for me other than driving myself mad was to fake the tackles. I used very small square section styrene rod (for the blocks) and very small gauge wire. (for the tackles) The wire was threaded thro' the styrene and ca'd at the right distance apart. The wire was then used to form both the tackle lines and the hooks either end to attach to the gun and bulwark. At the scale involved it worked for me. B.E.
  16. Great work on the cutter Ray, and the overall look of your Diana is so impressive, just love the look of her. Cheers, B.E.
  17. Just catching up Martin, your planking looks to be coming along fine to me; if you have any slight gaps or hollows some boxwood dust mixed with a spot of white glue should go a long way to hide any imperfections. Cheers, B.E.
  18. Your deck planking looks excellent Peter, and those Amati copper plates are a great improvement over the kit supplied ones. I too pondered over the diminutive size of the carronades but they are true to scale, a little over two feet in length at full size. Nice progress you're making with your Pickle. B.E.
  19. Cheers John, praise indeed from an ace modeller such as yourself Hi Steve, I can't recall the make of the sealant, but I got it from a local DiY store, this sort of stuff is feely available in the UK and I would imagine also in Australia. It is described as Non silicon general sealant, the sort you use a gun to apply. It comes out white but dries clear. A lot more user friendly than the silicon based versions. If you have a DiY store, have a look in the decorating section. Cheers, B.E.
  20. Belated thanks for looking in Omar and for your appreciation and to you Steven, I'm pleased you like the sails. Regards, B.E.
  21. I did taper my planks both fore and aft below the wale and I made quite a long shallow taper, the exact proportions of which now elude me but 1/64 inch seems an incredibly small adjustment Martin from the overall width of your planks. I can't correlate directly as I think we used different plank widths, my standard boxwood planks were 4.5mm wide and I fitted 10 between the wale and the stern post along the counter bottom. Pity you've got to remove your four strakes, but as we all know once our eye has detected something we're not happy with, we can't let it rest. Look forward to seeing the revised arrangement. B.E.
  22. Hi Matti, I can't believe I haven't looked in on your build since Page 92 and missed the completion party. Still I've now remedied that and have enjoyed reading the closing stages of your wonderful build. I've always loved the lower mast/standing rigging only configuration of display ever since I saw a wonderful drawing by Landström in his book The ship. If you have it, it is drawing 380 on page 169, of a French 56 gunner. Many congratulations Matti, a job well done. Regards, B.E.
  23. Oh that heart sinking moment when something you have been working on for ages pings off into the ether never to be seen again - except when you have re made the part, when it suddenly re-appears. As someone who can only gaze with amazement on your metal working dexterity Ian, I think I would go for the soft option of having the cover on one with the workings displayed on the other, but then as someone who can only dream of producing such a great little item, I would wouldn't I B.E.
  24. You've done the right thing John in re-doing those seizings, lucky it is the smallest set of shrouds you were working on. There can't be many of us who have not had to take a step or two backwards at times during our builds. B.E.
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