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Everything posted by Blue Ensign
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She looks beautiful Ray,(as does your Lady Nelson) great colour toning. Impressive even with only the lower masts and standing rigging in place, which is a look I find quite appealing on models. Cheers, B.E.
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Boat looks excellent Bob, she sits just right on the skids, a fine addition to your beautiful build. B.E.
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and thank you Jack for taking the time to post your appreciation Pleased you enjoyed it and I hope you found it of some use. Regards, B.E.
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The online version of Steel's work is one of the most useful reference works available to us ship modellers. but.... a large printed version can be obtained from DN Goodchild in the USA. Here's the link http://dngoodchild.com/divide_for_square_rig.htm When I found this I couldn't resist buying the hard copy it is a beautifully produced book, although I still regularly use the online reference. B.E.
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Beautiful work Timmo, your Granado is a class build, I just love it. B.E.
- 366 replies
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Love those deck shots on the previous page Peter Wishing you much enjoyment of your retirement, I've been retired ten years now, and not regretted one singe moment of it. Regards, B.E.
- 431 replies
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- pegasus
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She looks magnificent mobbsie, an excellent result, and I do hope you find somewhere to display and enjoy her. Finding room for these beasts particularly when cased is a perennial problem, my Pegasus build has stalled at present mainly because I can't decide where to put her once I start masting. Best wishes for your new project. B.E.
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- agamemnon
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Were ship figureheads routinely removed?
Blue Ensign replied to robnbill's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Not something I've heard of either, but I am surprised that removals took place at sea except under extreme circumstances. Sailors were /are? a superstitious lot and from the earliest times viewed the figurehead as a symbol of the soul of a ship, a guardian providing comfort and security against the vagaries of the sea. I would imagine that certainly in the 18th century and earlier removal of the figurehead would be considered very bad luck for the ship and viewed with dismay by the crew members. B.E. -
Take heart Martin, you're taking the right approach and rough as the first planking may appear to your eye at the moment, it did with mine, a little sanding and maybe a little light filling, will work wonders and the second planking is easier. Of course it's been a fair old time since I did mine, so things have faded somewhat into a rosy glow You're getting a nice even run of planks each side so should end up with a spiler somewhere beneath the lower curve of the hull, which is the best place for it. That tricky business of getting the planks to stick at the bow; the rabbet should help a lot but I recall I used CA for the first couple of bulkheads and into the rabbet assisted by spring clamps and/or bulldog clips pushed on the stem hard against the plank end. You could also try fixing the required curve in them using the damp plank/high heat Hairdryer technique which would reduce the tendency to spring back. It is also a good idea to cut a second rabbet down the stem to take the top planking if only down to the coppering line if indeed you intend to copper her. Wishing Bounce a quick recovery Commiserations from William who has had two ops this year and he 'bounced' back very quickly. Cheers, B.E.
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- fly
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Mike, for the type of soldering most useful on our project I can highly recommend silver soldering. You can see the equipment I use and examples of my initial projects on page 55 of my Pegasus log. As a complete novice to the art I found it fairly easy to achieve reasonable results quite quickly. Cheers, B.E.
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Hi Mike, all looking good. I gave some thought about the Jeer bitts but went with the cross piece on the forward side which as you say is a tight fit behind the pump casings. On the rigging plan in Volume 1V of the ffm it is shown on the fore side, even tho' within the body of the book it is indicated on the aft side. From a practical point of view on the Pegasus kit the fore side is better as on the aft side the jeer belay would foul the QD breast beam, and with the kit set up the cross piece would over hang the hatch ledge which is immediately behind it, well on my Pegasus it would. Once all the fittings are in place it is very difficult to see much detail of the cross piece so its location from a visual point of view has little relevance. A potential problem are the Main Jeer tackle falls. They should of course belay at the jeer bitts which support the Quarterdeck and sit right behind the pump cisterns which impede access thro' the bitt sheaves for the jeer falls. (I added sheaves to the bitt uprights) In an attempt to pre-empt future problems I passed two loops of cotton thro’ the jeer bitt sheaves, and I hope to attach the falls to these and pull them thro’ at the appropriate time. even so getting a decent belay will prove difficult, and until the jeers are rigged I don't know for certain whether the falls will have a fair run. The kit plans appear to show the jeers belayed at the Topsail sheet Bitts, a simplification which gets around the tricky problem of jeer belay. Cheers, B.E.
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Either way they'll still look marvellous B.E.
- 2,191 replies
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- confederacy
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Just enjoyed a catch-up on your log Augie, love those deck shots a few pages back. I see you're adding breeching rings to your guns, is there a historical basis for this in relation to Confederacy or is it a case of Captains fancy. I ask because somewhere in the back of my mind I recall that the Breeching ring was a feature of the Blomefield pattern gun introduced around 1790, which I think post-dates Confederacy. Of course our American cousins, or rebels as we might have described them back then, may have already introduced the Breeching ring to their ordnance without telling us B.E.
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Nice to catch up with your progress John, just love the effect you've achieved with the look of her, she looks a true working whaler. Well done B.E.
- 2,250 replies
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- model shipways
- Charles W Morgan
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Thanks Mike, there is ledging on the ladder top side but it's quite narrow and the ladder top is notched to fit over it, it doesn't create any problems. I had the same indecision about ladder orientation, but having spent an inordinate amount of fruitless searching thro' my not inconsiderate library of books on the subject, I decided there was no specific Georgian specification and I opted for the ladder top on the Starboard side as with the Quarterdeck Ladderway. On multi-deck ships such as Victory the 'tween deck companionway ladders run both Port and Starboard and indeed fore and aft, so I doubt there is a hard and fast rule. Cheers, B.E.
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