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Blue Ensign

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Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. very nice work Bob, and your planking in close-up looks excellent, great headshot photo's. B.E.
  2. Nice work Martin, I would have gone with the NMM plan Chimney as well for Fly. Incidentally the NMM plan for Pegasus shows the angled cowl arrangement, but it's nice to reflect these little differences between ships of the same class. I must admit I went for a simplified arrangement for the hances on the drift rails, I ruthlessly suppressed any 'puritanical' ideas. B.E.
  3. Lovin' the colours Mike. I seem to recall That I coppered my hull once I had finished the outer planking including the upper rails, but before I added the stern and Quarter lights. Didn't want to risk any damage to the glazed areas during the coppering particularly as I was using ca to fix the plates. B.E.
  4. The completion of your wonderful Morgan seems to have slipped below my radar John, what a fine project she has been, and such an inventive display. Congratulations, and very well done Cheers, B.E.
  5. Making good progress Doug, hull looks in excellent shape for the second planking. B.E.
  6. Thanks Dirk, it's a similar arrangement to Pegasus, but with serious impediments for working the guns. The tiller ropes effectively make the adjacent gun ports unusable, and there seems very little recoil room for those stern chasers. Must have had them on quite short breechings. Both you and Thomas have surely done Syren proud B.E.
  7. That looks so impressive Thomas. What was the tiller arrangement on Syren, there doesn't seem to be much room between the rudder head and wheel to allow for an external tiller rope system, were the ropes taken below decks for attachment? B.E.
  8. That's an excellent 'natural' red ochre equivalent for the inboard works Mike, nicely done. B.E.
  9. Beautiful detailing on those carriages Michael. B.E.
  10. Nice progress Bob, great idea for the moulding strip, I will remember that one. I couldn't risk drilling the scupper holes right thro' the hull either, I approached it from both sides, with a simulation for the inside holes. Are you going to face up the scupper holes with something to represent the lead flanges? B.E.
  11. Looking very impressive Frank, tricky work doing those jib sails, so easy to distort the stays . Like the look of your workshop, ready to go for your next project B.E.
  12. Cracking photos Michael, what a joy your build is B.E.
  13. Hi Timmo, Here's a link to a UK supplier. http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/12.html B.E.
  14. I think Martin makes a good point, I quite like the natural look of your deck and I would think long and hard before I committed to a colour change. Still I think your good judgement will make the right decision, it's always tricky to reach a conclusion from looking at photo samples on the computer. B.E.
  15. Great project Tony, those swivels and anchors look excellent. Interesting about your wife liking her, mine too likes my smaller models of a revenue cutter and Pickle and is more than happy to have them displayed. I sometimes think scale in the domestic setting has a lot to do with it. Well done on a fine model and very useful build log. B.E.
  16. Amazing the difference a coat of varnish makes, nice looking hull B.E.
  17. I envy the cleanness of your work on Granado Bob, she's going to be a fine model. Glad you have managed to retore Cheerful. ​B.E.
  18. A fine example of the ship modelling art, well done B.E.
  19. Hi Martin, I've had a look back at my early stages (on the other place) and very little of the bulkhead extension appeared above the deck base before planking. Here's a few photo's to better explain. It makes a big difference once the capping rail has been fitted. I wouldn't get too bothered over this, once you have put the inner planking on you can always add extra height by adding a solid strip on top tapering it down towards aft, before the capping rail is attached. Hope this helps - feel free to remove these pics from your log. Cheers, B.E.
  20. Not so much a question of doability as finished look I think. At smaller scales the line is a maximum of 0.1mm diameter and generally less. Even at 1:64 scale the topmast ratlines on the Amati sloop are only 0.1mm. Get the correct relationship between shroud and ratlines and then do a comparison test with clove hitch and overhand and choose which suits your eye. I went with clove hitch on my 1:64 scale model, but overhand using very fine wire on my 1:150 scale Heller French Seventy-four. Courses for horses. Personally unless a miniature model, I don't favour gluing lines across the shrouds. B.E.
  21. So impressive Nils, she reminds me of those great builders models of Ocean liners you find in our Maritime Museums. A wonderful project. B.E.
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