Blue Ensign

Perhaps I should take another sabbatical and wait to see what little pearls I can pick up from your build Glenn.😉
On balance, perhaps  I should just  get on with it, my kit sat for four years beneath the bench, plus another two the stocks.
 
Post 18
Cap rails and frames
The Cap rail now needs to be thinned down. Chuck indicates an initial 1/32” overhang on the outer side. I use a strip of 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip as a template.

4684
The trickiest part is around the bow in the area of the bolsters, here I used a scalpel blade to carefully pare away the excess overhang down to 0.8mm whilst retaining the uniformity of the rail.
 
For thinning the frames as they move upwards to the rail I initially use a scalpel, the cedar cuts smoothly and uniformly, and for this aspect the blade is quicker and cleaner than sanding alone.

4685
The support base holds the hull steady for use of the scalpel and sanding. Some of the frames are thinned with the hull side down, others with the hull upright. Fine cuts are used to remove the timber.
As the frames are reduced the cap rail width is reduced until the required  width of 5/32" (4mm) is achieved.

4690
The ports side frame fairing and cap rail reduction near completion. I have left the inner bow area slightly oversize until I reach the stage of fitting the knee at the bow.
 
The starboard side shows the extent of the timber to be removed.

4691
So far, so good, I’m enjoying getting back to working on Chuck’s little gem.
 
B.E.
15/05/2024

Perhaps I should take another sabbatical and wait to see what little pearls I can pick up from your build Glenn.😉
On balance, perhaps  I should just  get on with it, my kit sat for four years beneath the bench, plus another two the stocks.
 
Post 18
Cap rails and frames
The Cap rail now needs to be thinned down. Chuck indicates an initial 1/32” overhang on the outer side. I use a strip of 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip as a template.

4684
The trickiest part is around the bow in the area of the bolsters, here I used a scalpel blade to carefully pare away the excess overhang down to 0.8mm whilst retaining the uniformity of the rail.
 
For thinning the frames as they move upwards to the rail I initially use a scalpel, the cedar cuts smoothly and uniformly, and for this aspect the blade is quicker and cleaner than sanding alone.

4685
The support base holds the hull steady for use of the scalpel and sanding. Some of the frames are thinned with the hull side down, others with the hull upright. Fine cuts are used to remove the timber.
As the frames are reduced the cap rail width is reduced until the required  width of 5/32" (4mm) is achieved.

4690
The ports side frame fairing and cap rail reduction near completion. I have left the inner bow area slightly oversize until I reach the stage of fitting the knee at the bow.
 
The starboard side shows the extent of the timber to be removed.

4691
So far, so good, I’m enjoying getting back to working on Chuck’s little gem.
 
B.E.
15/05/2024

I like the muted tones, and a good decision to dispense with any bling.
I also very much liked your Diana which I can see in the background.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Perhaps I should take another sabbatical and wait to see what little pearls I can pick up from your build Glenn.😉
On balance, perhaps  I should just  get on with it, my kit sat for four years beneath the bench, plus another two the stocks.
 
Post 18
Cap rails and frames
The Cap rail now needs to be thinned down. Chuck indicates an initial 1/32” overhang on the outer side. I use a strip of 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip as a template.

4684
The trickiest part is around the bow in the area of the bolsters, here I used a scalpel blade to carefully pare away the excess overhang down to 0.8mm whilst retaining the uniformity of the rail.
 
For thinning the frames as they move upwards to the rail I initially use a scalpel, the cedar cuts smoothly and uniformly, and for this aspect the blade is quicker and cleaner than sanding alone.

4685
The support base holds the hull steady for use of the scalpel and sanding. Some of the frames are thinned with the hull side down, others with the hull upright. Fine cuts are used to remove the timber.
As the frames are reduced the cap rail width is reduced until the required  width of 5/32" (4mm) is achieved.

4690
The ports side frame fairing and cap rail reduction near completion. I have left the inner bow area slightly oversize until I reach the stage of fitting the knee at the bow.
 
The starboard side shows the extent of the timber to be removed.

4691
So far, so good, I’m enjoying getting back to working on Chuck’s little gem.
 
B.E.
15/05/2024

Perhaps I should take another sabbatical and wait to see what little pearls I can pick up from your build Glenn.😉
On balance, perhaps  I should just  get on with it, my kit sat for four years beneath the bench, plus another two the stocks.
 
Post 18
Cap rails and frames
The Cap rail now needs to be thinned down. Chuck indicates an initial 1/32” overhang on the outer side. I use a strip of 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip as a template.

4684
The trickiest part is around the bow in the area of the bolsters, here I used a scalpel blade to carefully pare away the excess overhang down to 0.8mm whilst retaining the uniformity of the rail.
 
For thinning the frames as they move upwards to the rail I initially use a scalpel, the cedar cuts smoothly and uniformly, and for this aspect the blade is quicker and cleaner than sanding alone.

4685
The support base holds the hull steady for use of the scalpel and sanding. Some of the frames are thinned with the hull side down, others with the hull upright. Fine cuts are used to remove the timber.
As the frames are reduced the cap rail width is reduced until the required  width of 5/32" (4mm) is achieved.

4690
The ports side frame fairing and cap rail reduction near completion. I have left the inner bow area slightly oversize until I reach the stage of fitting the knee at the bow.
 
The starboard side shows the extent of the timber to be removed.

4691
So far, so good, I’m enjoying getting back to working on Chuck’s little gem.
 
B.E.
15/05/2024

Perhaps I should take another sabbatical and wait to see what little pearls I can pick up from your build Glenn.😉
On balance, perhaps  I should just  get on with it, my kit sat for four years beneath the bench, plus another two the stocks.
 
Post 18
Cap rails and frames
The Cap rail now needs to be thinned down. Chuck indicates an initial 1/32” overhang on the outer side. I use a strip of 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip as a template.

4684
The trickiest part is around the bow in the area of the bolsters, here I used a scalpel blade to carefully pare away the excess overhang down to 0.8mm whilst retaining the uniformity of the rail.
 
For thinning the frames as they move upwards to the rail I initially use a scalpel, the cedar cuts smoothly and uniformly, and for this aspect the blade is quicker and cleaner than sanding alone.

4685
The support base holds the hull steady for use of the scalpel and sanding. Some of the frames are thinned with the hull side down, others with the hull upright. Fine cuts are used to remove the timber.
As the frames are reduced the cap rail width is reduced until the required  width of 5/32" (4mm) is achieved.

4690
The ports side frame fairing and cap rail reduction near completion. I have left the inner bow area slightly oversize until I reach the stage of fitting the knee at the bow.
 
The starboard side shows the extent of the timber to be removed.

4691
So far, so good, I’m enjoying getting back to working on Chuck’s little gem.
 
B.E.
15/05/2024

Perhaps I should take another sabbatical and wait to see what little pearls I can pick up from your build Glenn.😉
On balance, perhaps  I should just  get on with it, my kit sat for four years beneath the bench, plus another two the stocks.
 
Post 18
Cap rails and frames
The Cap rail now needs to be thinned down. Chuck indicates an initial 1/32” overhang on the outer side. I use a strip of 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip as a template.

4684
The trickiest part is around the bow in the area of the bolsters, here I used a scalpel blade to carefully pare away the excess overhang down to 0.8mm whilst retaining the uniformity of the rail.
 
For thinning the frames as they move upwards to the rail I initially use a scalpel, the cedar cuts smoothly and uniformly, and for this aspect the blade is quicker and cleaner than sanding alone.

4685
The support base holds the hull steady for use of the scalpel and sanding. Some of the frames are thinned with the hull side down, others with the hull upright. Fine cuts are used to remove the timber.
As the frames are reduced the cap rail width is reduced until the required  width of 5/32" (4mm) is achieved.

4690
The ports side frame fairing and cap rail reduction near completion. I have left the inner bow area slightly oversize until I reach the stage of fitting the knee at the bow.
 
The starboard side shows the extent of the timber to be removed.

4691
So far, so good, I’m enjoying getting back to working on Chuck’s little gem.
 
B.E.
15/05/2024

You don't have to be 'good enough' to be a member of NRG Kevin, just pay the membership fee,  I'm a member  - case in point.🫤
B.E.
 

Perhaps I should take another sabbatical and wait to see what little pearls I can pick up from your build Glenn.😉
On balance, perhaps  I should just  get on with it, my kit sat for four years beneath the bench, plus another two the stocks.
 
Post 18
Cap rails and frames
The Cap rail now needs to be thinned down. Chuck indicates an initial 1/32” overhang on the outer side. I use a strip of 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip as a template.

4684
The trickiest part is around the bow in the area of the bolsters, here I used a scalpel blade to carefully pare away the excess overhang down to 0.8mm whilst retaining the uniformity of the rail.
 
For thinning the frames as they move upwards to the rail I initially use a scalpel, the cedar cuts smoothly and uniformly, and for this aspect the blade is quicker and cleaner than sanding alone.

4685
The support base holds the hull steady for use of the scalpel and sanding. Some of the frames are thinned with the hull side down, others with the hull upright. Fine cuts are used to remove the timber.
As the frames are reduced the cap rail width is reduced until the required  width of 5/32" (4mm) is achieved.

4690
The ports side frame fairing and cap rail reduction near completion. I have left the inner bow area slightly oversize until I reach the stage of fitting the knee at the bow.
 
The starboard side shows the extent of the timber to be removed.

4691
So far, so good, I’m enjoying getting back to working on Chuck’s little gem.
 
B.E.
15/05/2024

Post 17
The Journey resumes.
 
My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable.
 
Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit.

4646

4648
With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s  log and other excellent group builds is where I start.
 
B.E.
13/05/2024

Perhaps I should take another sabbatical and wait to see what little pearls I can pick up from your build Glenn.😉
On balance, perhaps  I should just  get on with it, my kit sat for four years beneath the bench, plus another two the stocks.
 
Post 18
Cap rails and frames
The Cap rail now needs to be thinned down. Chuck indicates an initial 1/32” overhang on the outer side. I use a strip of 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip as a template.

4684
The trickiest part is around the bow in the area of the bolsters, here I used a scalpel blade to carefully pare away the excess overhang down to 0.8mm whilst retaining the uniformity of the rail.
 
For thinning the frames as they move upwards to the rail I initially use a scalpel, the cedar cuts smoothly and uniformly, and for this aspect the blade is quicker and cleaner than sanding alone.

4685
The support base holds the hull steady for use of the scalpel and sanding. Some of the frames are thinned with the hull side down, others with the hull upright. Fine cuts are used to remove the timber.
As the frames are reduced the cap rail width is reduced until the required  width of 5/32" (4mm) is achieved.

4690
The ports side frame fairing and cap rail reduction near completion. I have left the inner bow area slightly oversize until I reach the stage of fitting the knee at the bow.
 
The starboard side shows the extent of the timber to be removed.

4691
So far, so good, I’m enjoying getting back to working on Chuck’s little gem.
 
B.E.
15/05/2024

Most likely my next build after Winchelsea, it’s just sitting in my cabinet waiting for me. 

Post 17
The Journey resumes.
 
My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable.
 
Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit.

4646

4648
With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s  log and other excellent group builds is where I start.
 
B.E.
13/05/2024

Post 17
The Journey resumes.
 
My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable.
 
Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit.

4646

4648
With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s  log and other excellent group builds is where I start.
 
B.E.
13/05/2024

Post 17
The Journey resumes.
 
My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable.
 
Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit.

4646

4648
With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s  log and other excellent group builds is where I start.
 
B.E.
13/05/2024

Post 16
With the rails in place the stem bolsters have to be shaped and fitted.
Chuck describes this step as challenging and provides six blanks from which two finished bolsters are required.
Hoping that’s enough, but if it isn’t, perhaps I need a different hobby.

0346
To give me a feel for shaping these bolsters I carved a Balsa block before moving onto the cedar.

0349

0350
To achieve the shape, I used a No11 scalpel blade, and finger sanders with a curved profile.

0351

0352
Once the bevels are cut the most difficult part is holding the bolster to impart the concave shape down to around  0.8mm thickness at the bottom edge.

0353

0354
Multiple trial fittings are required during the shaping process.

0362
The final finishing was done with the bolsters in place.

0372

0367
All went well with four blanks left. The recess for the bolster roller was cut using micro chisels.

0370

0373
I can’t help thinking that the boat looks better without those baulks of wood, necessary as they are to perform one of the  main operational functions.
 
Perhaps once the decorative rail and decoration is applied they won’t look so prominent.
 
 
B.E.
08/03/2023

Post 17
The Journey resumes.
 
My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable.
 
Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit.

4646

4648
With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s  log and other excellent group builds is where I start.
 
B.E.
13/05/2024

Post 17
The Journey resumes.
 
My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable.
 
Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit.

4646

4648
With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s  log and other excellent group builds is where I start.
 
B.E.
13/05/2024

The anchors look great Daniel. 👍
I'm pretty picky about fittings but white metal anchors were one of those items I was  fairly relaxed about. There were sufficient after-market versions to suit all sizes - from kedge to Best bower, if a full set was required.
 
B.E.

Post 17
The Journey resumes.
 
My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable.
 
Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit.

4646

4648
With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s  log and other excellent group builds is where I start.
 
B.E.
13/05/2024

Post 17
The Journey resumes.
 
My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable.
 
Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit.

4646

4648
With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s  log and other excellent group builds is where I start.
 
B.E.
13/05/2024

Post 17
The Journey resumes.
 
My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable.
 
Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit.

4646

4648
With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s  log and other excellent group builds is where I start.
 
B.E.
13/05/2024

Post One Hundred and Seventy-five
18’ cutter – completion.
Lifting rings and a mast step are added to the basic kit along with the incredibly tiny thwart knees. Amazing how Chris manages to produce identifiable laser cut pieces this small.

4602
I have gone with a double banked six oared rowing arrangement, mainly because with single banking I would have to cut an oarlock in the wash strake above the sternsheets, and there’s insufficient depth.

4625
I’m not a fan of the kit rudders supplied with this range of boats, comprising a thin central core sandwiched between two brass etch facings complete with straps.
 
I prefer to make rudders using slightly thicker wood with a vertical grain. For the 18’ cutter I used 1mm Boxwood.

For hanging I use the ‘quick release’ method as used on such boats, as seen here on one of the Victory’s cutters. 
With this arrangement the pintle is attached to the sternpost with an extra-long pin which allows for easier rudder hanging once the boat is in the water.

4590
Rudders are fairly simple to replicate, as is the hanging, provided sufficiently tiny eyelets can be obtained.

4605
To match the other boats on the skids I have painted the bottom with Vallejo ivory, but otherwise left the remainder of the hull and inboard works bright.

4610
The oars provide the colour element linking to the general inboard works of ‘Indy’

4612
I think this small cutter looks ok on the skids, obscuring little of the gun deck, so I’ll leave it onboard.
 
It has taken around 8 days to build this smallest of the supplied boats. From around 10” she looks fine to my eye, especially given the scale, but the macro is somewhat less forgiving.🫤
 
B.E.
10/05/2024

Post One Hundred and Seventy-four
18’ cutter – fitting out.

4571
A shot of the gratings and footwalings which are laser cut. A much better option than the brass etch version.👍
These take a little fettling to get them to sit fully down involving bevelling the underside of the parts, and shaving down the frames as required.
 
The kit sternsheets are combined with the aftermost thwart.
This is an arrangement I don’t like primarily because the grain of the thwart tends to run the wrong way and the set-up  makes it more difficult to  fit the vagaries of  individual hull constructions.

4577
I find it easier to cut away the thwart and make a replacement from spare fret. I have also filled in the open stern area to create an additional bench seat.

4570
At the bow I thought the area looked a little unfinished with  the remnants of the mdf construction block on view.
 
The kit plan (sheet eight) does show a small fore deck in this position but I can’t locate such a part with the 18’ cutter fittings.

4582
This benefits from facing up using spare fret, and the addition of a breasthook above it.
 
One other puzzlement with the 18’ cutter is the height the thwarts and sternsheets relative to the wash strakes.

4579
They are positioned as per the kit and instructions, but have very little freeboard. It is not a case of fitting them too high as the scale figures show a correct height between thwarts and footwaling.

4580
There is only 2mm between thwart top and wash strake top. This equates to 5” at scale.
Working up from the 1:48 scale drawings of an 18’ cutter in The Frigate Diana AotS book the difference should be around 11”
 

The new Vanguard resin cutter, what a beauty that looks, shows a much greater depth between the seating and wash strakes which looks more appropriate.

4583
Even so, visually the wooden version is a pretty little thing, and for most casual viewers this disparity won’t even register.

4588
I am fairly happy with the ‘clinker’ look but it does need a good clean-up.
 
 
B.E.
08/05/2024
 
 

Post 17
The Journey resumes.
 
My Medway Longboat has been quietly maturing on the stocks for the past year whilst I have been building Indefatigable.
 
Time to get back on the job, eh Gromit.

4646

4648
With a year away from the build I need to re-acquaint myself with the current stage before I begin, and a re-read of Chuck’s  log and other excellent group builds is where I start.
 
B.E.
13/05/2024