sygreen
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Everything posted by sygreen
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would like to follow along
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Well, I definitely have to follow this build. Have not started my Woody Joe kit, the Hacchoro, yet but this will give me incentive. As always, your attention to detail in both model building and writing a build log is highly commendable
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- Japanese boat
- Wasen
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Planking was very difficult for me. Are you on the first layer? Dropped some planks but also gradually narrowed to the planks by approx half, starting where the planks began to overlap at both the bow and stern. Ended up by using lots of filler (probably too much) on the first planking. Second planking was a bit easier. Used the same technique but because it was thinner, it was easier to curve. I'll post it on your site as well. Show me pictures
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Planking was very difficult for me. Are you on the first layer? Dropped some planks but also gradually narrowed to the planks by approx half, starting where the planks began to overlap at both the bow and stern. Ended up by using lots of filler (probably too much) on the first planking. Second planking was a bit easier. Used the same technique but because it was thinner, it was easier to curve. I'll post it on your site as well. Show me pictures
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The problem you have is the the hole on the deck for the 2 elevated bulkheads is mal-aligned . I guess it is too late to widen the opening as it is all glued. Did you use CA glue or PVA? PVA is water based and can be loosened. I would check the web site for solutions to ungluing the deck. Remember that the entire deck is now mal-aligned and ungluing is the best solution. If it will destroy the deck by ungluing, all you can do is widen the opening. The rudder follows the line of the keel so the entire deck will then not be symmetrical Maybe someone else has a better solution for this t
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You will also have to clip the walnut strips flush to the deck edge, of course. I used a Dremel and sanded it down . Was a lot easier You are doing great, just keep it up
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I would read ahead as you will have to curve the bulkheads towards the bow. I used the shape of the deck as a general guide to get the curve correct. This allowed me to get the bulkhead flush with the deck It seemed to work for me.
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yes, that is what happened to me. You have to sand or file it down so it is flush with the deck
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looks good
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Hi harbm, Welcome back. I made a mistake at this point in my build. I ran the plank right on top of the 1x6 plank from the stern to the deck house. There , of course, was a space between the top of the quarterdeck and that piece of planking. I then placed another piece of planking to fill that space and ended up with a double step-up . See my pictures.. To fix it , I had to apply another plank to fill space. Somehow that first plank has to run from the edge of the quarterdeck to top of the lath #27. I do not think it is possible. Check out my fix. I found that at this point the instruction manual left out quite a few steps and I was on my own. Maybe Casey will have an answer.
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Hi Duarte, I am presently building the Scotland and can offer help. Although this is also my first build, I have learned a lot along the way. The wood strip is one of the square walnut strips. It fits the depth of the false keel . The bulwarks need to be flush with the top of the false keel. I had to file down the slots deeper to make them fit. If they are too tight to fit you may have to file the sides of the slots. But be careful as they must not be loose. They should be snug. Keep asking questions , post some pictures as you go along so we may see your work and maybe see things that you may miss. Also, check out all the build logs on this site as they will give you great suggestions that you may run into.
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I have multiple areas of excess CA glue stains on the walnut hull and the wales. Do I care about sanding them out completely or will the painting hide them anyway? Also , what is the best way to clean the wales as they will be only stained?
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I am starting to paint the transom . Probably an idiot question but do I seal the paint on the metal piece with polyurethane? Although I will be using flat or satin finish for the entire hull, will it look nice if I added glossy just to the metallic gold pieces??
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I did have trouble with the stern. I noticed above that you only covered the stern with a layer of walnut. You did not use the first layer? Why? I ended up being able to do that last walnut strip only after I had laid both layer of planking. I think the end result was the same but hard to be sure from the pictures
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Very clean job, skyboat. I ended up with splintering probably because I was not as careful as you are. The splintering though did not matter as once you place the bulwarks and rails , it covers them all up. I used the walnut strip as well and it will make for a better fit for the transom. Keep it up Planking, first layer next?
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Here is my finished hull, prior to painting Got the rudder shaped and attached The rails were predrilled prior the glueing A few small mistakes but any comments welcomed
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Hi Casey, Checked out your yellow and it is much closer to what I like. I'll go to Michaels and check it out
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Interested in building this model as well. Think I will pull up a seat and watch if you don't mind
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- syren
- model shipways
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Trying to figure out the correct drill size for the holes needed on the rail. Any ideas? Also, the yellow given by model expo for the hull is no where close to the picture on the box. Not bright enough. Any ideas on what the correct yellow is called?
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As a newbie to ship modeling I have some questions that I need some help with. Do I use primer prior to painting a wooden model? What are the advantages or are there none? I hear using varnish as a finish on most of the threads. My hardware store tells me that varnish is not used anymore and polyurethane replaced it. What are the advantages of using varnish instead of polyurethane? Why is a "satin" finish preferable compared to "glossy"? I really need some advice to give my models a professional look
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Thanks Casey for your comments. I doubt I could do this without your ideas I have shaped the rail and will drill it as you suggest prior to gluing it on. I have looked at the rudder metal fasteners and they seem too long esp the top one. What did you do? Also, the metal fasteners have extra pieces of metal. They are flimsy , so how do you remove excess metal? I think I will start a thread on varnish and polyurethane
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Paint stores tell me that varnish is hardly ever used anymore. Polyurethane is used instead. What is the difference? Why am I constantly reading about varnish
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As I get ready to paint the hull, do I use primer first and then the color. Or, is the color itself enough to cover it. How many coats does it usually take? I have seen modelers on this site water down the paint and apply many more coats. What is the advantage of that??
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Yes, the rudder is built and came out nice. Pictures to follow. I made the ridges exactly the size of the plans but they are a bit on the bigger size
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