Chuck Seiler

Bandersnatch of nefs it is.  I'll alert Webster's and Oxford.

Superb job!!!!   Well done!!!! 

Superb job!!!!   Well done!!!! 

Superb job!!!!   Well done!!!! 

What did you prime with?
 
    My limited experience with painting models (I only paint sections, like the wale or a panel...and I don;t complete many models) is that I seal the wood only.  Then I use what I believe Chuck P. refers to as 'carriage process'.  I thin the acrylic (using artist acrylics) to just thicker than water.  Apply.  Let dry, Apply a second coat. Let dry.  Buff with a micro fiber cloth or very fine (600+) sand paper.  Apply/dry/buff at least 2 more, maybe 4 more coats, depending on color.  It takes time but the results are worth the effort.
 
    I understand that painting the wale is much different in scale than painting the whole hull...

Superb job!!!!   Well done!!!! 

Here are the anchormen pulling up the anchor - the one at the front is of course Ron Burgundy.
 
 
 

 
Making the Cinque Ports flag. This took more work and mucking around than pretty much any other aspect of the build. I first tried doing it with acrylic on paper - disastrous. After various other attempts, this is enamel on a piece of old cotton sheet. I need to work out a better method of making flags, but this will do for now. I found that I hadn't allowed enough room between the top of the shrouds and the cross at the top of the mast to add the other flag shown on the town seal, so I eventually decided the best thing to do was just leave it off. 
 
       
 
And . . . FINISHED!
 

 
 
 
Unfortunately there was something wrong with the light when I took the photo, so I'll be asking my wife (who's a good photographer) to do some better ones.
 
And here's the town seal for comparison.
 

 
Now I can get back to working on the Great Harry.
 
Steven

Hi
 
I am pleased to announce that after a long wait, the monograph of Mahonesa is now available at ANCRE.
This is a Spanish frigate from the late 18th century, built by the engineer Onorato de Bouyon, in the arseal of Mahón, on the island of Menorca, Baleares - Spain.
The monograph includes all the carpentry plans to be able to make a model of arsenal, a book of 170 pages with the history of the frigate, explanations for its construction, the comments of the plans and the disembodiment of all its rigging.
 
The purchase link at ANCRE:
https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/123-la-mahonesa-fregates-espagnoles-1789-9782382820131.html
Currently available in French, Italian and Spanish, 
Available in English from February 22, 2022
 

 
It was a long wait, but in the end it was published, I hope the work I have done with enthusiasm will be to your liking.
 
Adrián Sorolla
 
 
 
 

I wouldn't use sandpaper on paint at all.   Maybe rubbing compound or even toothpaste.  Learned that when painting a couple of cars.

What did you prime with?
 
    My limited experience with painting models (I only paint sections, like the wale or a panel...and I don;t complete many models) is that I seal the wood only.  Then I use what I believe Chuck P. refers to as 'carriage process'.  I thin the acrylic (using artist acrylics) to just thicker than water.  Apply.  Let dry, Apply a second coat. Let dry.  Buff with a micro fiber cloth or very fine (600+) sand paper.  Apply/dry/buff at least 2 more, maybe 4 more coats, depending on color.  It takes time but the results are worth the effort.
 
    I understand that painting the wale is much different in scale than painting the whole hull...

What did you prime with?
 
    My limited experience with painting models (I only paint sections, like the wale or a panel...and I don;t complete many models) is that I seal the wood only.  Then I use what I believe Chuck P. refers to as 'carriage process'.  I thin the acrylic (using artist acrylics) to just thicker than water.  Apply.  Let dry, Apply a second coat. Let dry.  Buff with a micro fiber cloth or very fine (600+) sand paper.  Apply/dry/buff at least 2 more, maybe 4 more coats, depending on color.  It takes time but the results are worth the effort.
 
    I understand that painting the wale is much different in scale than painting the whole hull...

Gotta be careful with your wording on a nautical website; for a second I thought you had a local dealer in Chinese sailing vessels.
 
Model looks fantastic. I've definitely considered the aquarium case idea before, seems reasonable. Can't wait to see the final version.
 
As for the rope fuzziness, when I submitted my Viking ship to the NRG contest, one of the judges at first criticized the fuzziness of my lines, then backtracked to wonder whether it was intentional and/or accurate for the rough hand-made ropes of the period. So that can always be your excuse, too!

Not sure. The junk shop in town was selling small aquariums a few months ago - maybe I'll get one of those to serve as a ready-made case. I've been thinking I'll put a back board in it with a reproduction of the original Winchelsea town seal to serve as a comparison with the model that's based on it.
 
Steven

Well done!  Your work is always an inspiration.
 
How do you plan to display it?

Well done!  Your work is always an inspiration.
 
How do you plan to display it?

Well done!  Your work is always an inspiration.
 
How do you plan to display it?

Who knew there was a second half to the season.

Who knew there was a second half to the season.

Who knew there was a second half to the season.

And the final crewman carved. He's one of the two raising the anchor.
 
      
 

 
And painted:
 
        
 

 
I did a bit more shading this time. I think it's turned out pretty well. I'm not brave enough to go the whole hog with the shading like Old Collingwood (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24995-battle-of-waterloo-attack-on-la-haye-sainte-farm/page/53/ - (nothing like a bit of cross-promotion) - but unlike him I have to carve each figure from scratch before I paint it, so if I stuff up I've wasted all that extra work. Still, I'm getting braver. . .
 
 
I'd already tied the sail to the yard with robands, but they were too scruffy and there was too much shiny glue on them. And I then I saw Backer's example (see link below) to show how it could be done. Plus a little research into contemporary pictures convinced me that the robands should have been twice as far apart anyway.
 
So I took them all off again and re-did them, shamelessly copying Backer's technique https://modelshipworld.com/topic/14188-pelican-later-renamed-as-golden-hind-by-backer-scale-145-galleon-late-16th-century/page/22/#comments
 
First, sewing on the bolt-rope. Not as good a job as Backer does, but a lot better than I'm usually able to do.
 

 

 
You may have noticed that the bolt-rope is only at the top of the sail, and that in fact it's pretty scruffy below there. That's because it's going to be furled, so any further fine work would simply be wasted because it won't be seen.
 
Adding the robands:
 

 
Gluing the free ends down with CA so they appear to be hanging due to gravity,
 

 

 
and trimming them to length.
 

 
I furled the sail and put the gaskets on. Not happy - too bulky, even though I'd intentionally made the sail shorter to avoid that problem.
 

 
Still, it's really not possible to obtain, let alone work with, fabric 1/75th the thickness of real sailcloth.
 
So I removed the gaskets, cut some more off the bottom of the sail
 

 
and did it again.
 

 
 
Better.
 
Steven

Living in Canada I've gotten used to using both systems. I built my ropewalks and do home repairs using imperial. All of the kits I've been building are in metric. Come to think of it all of my calipers and rulers have both on them, it's kind of like knowing two languages. Metric is very easy to use though. 
 
@Dave_E I'd say just use the one you are used too. 

Good question. Real wooden masts and spars are first cut to a square cross-section, then octagonal, then sixteen sided before being rounded off. Some sections are left square so that other things (such as mast caps) attached to them can't skew around.

Years ago I knew a guy who made modern US Navy ship models.  He was quite prolific.  He used Testors Dove Grey spray paint.  I don't know if that is around any more, but it is worth a look. 
 
Testors/Model Master makes a haze grey semi gloss acrylic, in a jar (hand paint).  I believe I saw in another post you make sci-fi related models.  You probably know how to get a good finish using a brush.  If not, there are some good articles/posts here that can help.  Since it is semi gloss, I would recommend perhaps a matt finish (DullCote) overlay.   

Years ago I knew a guy who made modern US Navy ship models.  He was quite prolific.  He used Testors Dove Grey spray paint.  I don't know if that is around any more, but it is worth a look. 
 
Testors/Model Master makes a haze grey semi gloss acrylic, in a jar (hand paint).  I believe I saw in another post you make sci-fi related models.  You probably know how to get a good finish using a brush.  If not, there are some good articles/posts here that can help.  Since it is semi gloss, I would recommend perhaps a matt finish (DullCote) overlay.   

Good morning! 
 
I am in need of help. I'm building a USS Forrest Sherman (DD-933) model that I'm converting to a Vietnam-era USS Jonas Ingram (DD-938). The problem I have is that I can't find the haze gray used in Vietnam as a stand-alone color. I was wondering if any of you all knew where I could find it. I should also note that, being colorblind, I am limited in the amount of mixing I am able to do with any degree of accuracy. Does anyone know where I can a very close equivalent color, or one that can be made by only mixing two colors together? This will be for airbrushing, and I'm not really used to lacquer or enamel (though I can learn if needed). I tend to use Tamiya, Vallejo, and Mission Models paints, but I'm not locked into any one brand. 
 
Thanks!