Moonbug

Getting ready for the T'Gallant rigging takes a couple preemptive steps.  As the FFM points out - getting the upper jeer tyes done before mounting the T'gallant masts is quite a bit easier than waiting until later. Even though these area simpler bit of rigging than the lower versions, I still found the quite tricky as I am running out of room on the upper mast heads.  Were I to do it again - I would allow for more room on the upper heads above the cross trees and tressle trees than the measurements suggest. The blocks for both fore and main are listed as 14" or 5.5mm.  
 

 
While I probably could have waited a bit longer to mount the jib boom, I decided to do it now so I can start to wrap up the standing rigging.  Mounting the boom requires wrapping the crupper - a 2" line - I used .25mm with six wraps and secured very similar to the gammoning. While Lees has this wrapping forward of the saddle, I stuck with the FFM which shows it aft. 
 

 
Before any rigging can be added to the end of the jib boom, I first need to sort out the jib boom traveller. This is a specific piece of iron work that has a ring that holds the jib outhaul and the running end of the jib stay. It also has a hook  that holds the tack of the jib. Both of these are attached to a larger ring that runs along the jib boom.  I shaped all these with two different gauges of wire and silver solder.
 

 
Finally, the entire piece is blackened and run over the end of the jib boom.
 

 

Getting ready for the T'Gallant rigging takes a couple preemptive steps.  As the FFM points out - getting the upper jeer tyes done before mounting the T'gallant masts is quite a bit easier than waiting until later. Even though these area simpler bit of rigging than the lower versions, I still found the quite tricky as I am running out of room on the upper mast heads.  Were I to do it again - I would allow for more room on the upper heads above the cross trees and tressle trees than the measurements suggest. The blocks for both fore and main are listed as 14" or 5.5mm.  
 

 
While I probably could have waited a bit longer to mount the jib boom, I decided to do it now so I can start to wrap up the standing rigging.  Mounting the boom requires wrapping the crupper - a 2" line - I used .25mm with six wraps and secured very similar to the gammoning. While Lees has this wrapping forward of the saddle, I stuck with the FFM which shows it aft. 
 

 
Before any rigging can be added to the end of the jib boom, I first need to sort out the jib boom traveller. This is a specific piece of iron work that has a ring that holds the jib outhaul and the running end of the jib stay. It also has a hook  that holds the tack of the jib. Both of these are attached to a larger ring that runs along the jib boom.  I shaped all these with two different gauges of wire and silver solder.
 

 
Finally, the entire piece is blackened and run over the end of the jib boom.
 

 

Getting ready for the T'Gallant rigging takes a couple preemptive steps.  As the FFM points out - getting the upper jeer tyes done before mounting the T'gallant masts is quite a bit easier than waiting until later. Even though these area simpler bit of rigging than the lower versions, I still found the quite tricky as I am running out of room on the upper mast heads.  Were I to do it again - I would allow for more room on the upper heads above the cross trees and tressle trees than the measurements suggest. The blocks for both fore and main are listed as 14" or 5.5mm.  
 

 
While I probably could have waited a bit longer to mount the jib boom, I decided to do it now so I can start to wrap up the standing rigging.  Mounting the boom requires wrapping the crupper - a 2" line - I used .25mm with six wraps and secured very similar to the gammoning. While Lees has this wrapping forward of the saddle, I stuck with the FFM which shows it aft. 
 

 
Before any rigging can be added to the end of the jib boom, I first need to sort out the jib boom traveller. This is a specific piece of iron work that has a ring that holds the jib outhaul and the running end of the jib stay. It also has a hook  that holds the tack of the jib. Both of these are attached to a larger ring that runs along the jib boom.  I shaped all these with two different gauges of wire and silver solder.
 

 
Finally, the entire piece is blackened and run over the end of the jib boom.
 

 

Several hours of work, and very few photos can only mean one thing - ratlines.  Finished up the rest of them. No mystery here - same as the lowers, with a piece of 5mm graph paper serving as a template and spacing them out then filling in the gaps. Ratlines are tied off with half hitches, then diluted glue on all the knots. I give it a good overnight drying before I go through and clip off all the ends with a scalpel. 
 

 
I also added the upper shroud cleats. 
 
 
 
 
 

Several hours of work, and very few photos can only mean one thing - ratlines.  Finished up the rest of them. No mystery here - same as the lowers, with a piece of 5mm graph paper serving as a template and spacing them out then filling in the gaps. Ratlines are tied off with half hitches, then diluted glue on all the knots. I give it a good overnight drying before I go through and clip off all the ends with a scalpel. 
 

 
I also added the upper shroud cleats. 
 
 
 
 
 

Several hours of work, and very few photos can only mean one thing - ratlines.  Finished up the rest of them. No mystery here - same as the lowers, with a piece of 5mm graph paper serving as a template and spacing them out then filling in the gaps. Ratlines are tied off with half hitches, then diluted glue on all the knots. I give it a good overnight drying before I go through and clip off all the ends with a scalpel. 
 

 
I also added the upper shroud cleats. 
 
 
 
 
 

Several hours of work, and very few photos can only mean one thing - ratlines.  Finished up the rest of them. No mystery here - same as the lowers, with a piece of 5mm graph paper serving as a template and spacing them out then filling in the gaps. Ratlines are tied off with half hitches, then diluted glue on all the knots. I give it a good overnight drying before I go through and clip off all the ends with a scalpel. 
 

 
I also added the upper shroud cleats. 
 
 
 
 
 

Several hours of work, and very few photos can only mean one thing - ratlines.  Finished up the rest of them. No mystery here - same as the lowers, with a piece of 5mm graph paper serving as a template and spacing them out then filling in the gaps. Ratlines are tied off with half hitches, then diluted glue on all the knots. I give it a good overnight drying before I go through and clip off all the ends with a scalpel. 
 

 
I also added the upper shroud cleats. 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks so much Bob - appreciate the support.  I’m confident your Peg is going to be great; you’ve definitely got the skills to make it so. 

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

Several hours of work, and very few photos can only mean one thing - ratlines.  Finished up the rest of them. No mystery here - same as the lowers, with a piece of 5mm graph paper serving as a template and spacing them out then filling in the gaps. Ratlines are tied off with half hitches, then diluted glue on all the knots. I give it a good overnight drying before I go through and clip off all the ends with a scalpel. 
 

 
I also added the upper shroud cleats. 
 
 
 
 
 

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

Thanks so much Bob - appreciate the support.  I’m confident your Peg is going to be great; you’ve definitely got the skills to make it so. 

Your work is always so impressive Bug, I certainly hope that my Pegasus will be similar, wishful thinking on my part lol
 But thank you for posting,  great information on this build that will help when I restart the Pegasus  again.
Amazing work.    
Bob M.

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

As I illustrated above - Added the additional stays to the upper main and fore masts.  It definitely adds to the complexity and bulk on the mastheads, but still looks good to me.  And more importantly, I've utilized those extraneous deadeyes. 
 
 
 
 
 
   I guess we can just rest assured that this would be the most stable 14-gun sloop in the Navy! 
 

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

Nice work!

Really, really nicely done.