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*Hans*

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  1. Hello Garry, welcome. I recently have bought the book The Age of Galley as I was eager to know which colors the ancient Greek used on their ships. Unfortunately not much information on that, so I used black and dark red. But it is quite an interesting book - describing (roughly) the period 1200 BC up to AD 1300 Because I am busy on starting my own range of modelkits of Dutch 17th century VOC ships I have stopped working on the trireme temporarely. But once in a while I will post here. Btw - please feel free to have a look on my scratch Batavia project (link hereunder)
  2. Haha never tried this, but I'm sure it will work. Only trouble might be to find a microwave which is wide enough (or deep) for the planks.... Oak was quite a new material for me to work with. Not the most easy, but manageable. Unfortunately, due to a related project for my Batavia I will not post very often here the coming period. But be sure - more posts will follow.
  3. Due to the fact that I'm busy making another model of almost the same ship as the Batavia, The Dordrecht - 1618 (this for a wooden modelkit to be released later this spring) It is a bit quiet on this topic. Hope you readers don't mind. And if there are any questions - please post them!
  4. I must say carving was quite a challenge for me as well - and I didn't come far because my son introduced greenstuff to me. So instead of carving I started claying, and this went very well in fact.
  5. To my humble thoughts to get a pulling strength of 13,5 tons, only twisting could be a proper method. I also thought of making the rope wet, so it will expand, mount it as tight as possible and then heat it up so it will shrink again - thus creating pull. Mind you - these are only pop-ups in my head. No written evidence.
  6. Nice build Marc! I know it's still a long way ahaead, but how are you going to make the ornaments?
  7. To be honest - in the Netherlands the 1 and 2 cent coins are already almost out of circulation. It's easier and cheaper for everyone to round amounts of money to a value of 5 cent - Every article in a shop can cost f.i. 1,69 euro and 24,99. This is then a total of 26,68, but you pay 26,70. Other way round also occurs. Your total is f.i 16,52 - you pay 16,50
  8. In Europe we have the Euro. The 1 cent, 2 cent and 5 cent coins are in diameter between 12 and 15 mm, and these 3 coins i used for the shields. I hammered them a bit convex, filed the edges thin and removed the euro-marks and value. Then tinned them and blackened them. Now I have to think of coloring them pale red and put some extra markings on it - like this:
  9. It's all going a bit slow at this moment - due to other projects and things I'm working on. However - I know you are all eager waiting for further steps. Busy on the bow, made some ornaments out of small coins. That's all I can show for now - sorry.
  10. Don, In this case I cannot help you because I did not follow the plans from the box. As it is a scrap-build for me I decided to put the wales slightly diffirent. Sorry!
  11. Don, Thank you! Blessings to you as well, and hope you have enjoyed your days with your son! I'm not leaving a part of the deck open - no. Will make it as a complete model. In fact I just finished the deck. Pictures will follow later.
  12. Thanks guys. December is a busy month - it has been a while since my last pictures. The structure on the ship is getting in shape more and more: And in the meantime cutted some wood for the oars: I figured out (being a mechanical engineer) that the structure of the original kit isn't made in the proper way - looking where the oars will come. To my opinion the whole structure will distort when speeding up the rowing (when the captain wants to waterski f.i.) The immense forces on the structure aren't brought to the hull when the diagonal beams are lacking. So I added them. View on the front with its closed nose: And the deck being placed:
  13. Update. Busy on the structure on the ship, all done in oak sticks of 4 x 4 mm - cut in length - with dowels and coppernail mounting. Not really boring, but not the most exciting job to do. Just some pictures: structure for the third row of seats Impressive view and
  14. Haha nice - already thought so! I'm very familiair with green stuff - even introduced it on a Dutch modelbuilders forum. I made my lion on the Batavia out of this stuff. Indeed not "noble", but often very usefull!
  15. Cristiano, Just had a quick scroll through your post to have a look at the pictures. You're doing a wonderfull job! How did you make the wolfs heads? Woodcarving or sculping them?
  16. Cristiano, Very nice pictures you have! And thank you for this information. I use oak for the ship - will try as much as possible visible from the wood, but I also like the pale red colors. I am working out a color sceme with dark brown-black, pale red and oak as wood. The images you gave me are a very nice and good help for this.
  17. Don, I think you have solved your "problem" yourself. On plan 1 it is shown how part 1G should be fitted to the keel - indeed forming a notch for the frame. If you start with part 1A then 1B etc. the 1G should be on the right place in the end.
  18. A material which could have been used was human hair. This was also used for the big catapults By making a long string of it and then lay it double and twist it (simply with a stick through it) man could reach a very high tension on the rope.
  19. Steven, Guess you're right - just did a search on the web and also found next quote: Homer (not Mr Simpson) speaks about the "black ships" in the Illiad; while Odysseus refers to the "crimson ships" in the Odyssey. The black could be pitch or tar or as Don says, which could be oiled wood. As red was one of the easier colors to produce during ancient time, versus purple which took about 60,000 rotting snails to produce one pound of dye. So it is possible to have black and red ships. You have to remember, the history police won't come knocking on your door because you chose colors that may not be historical accurate as this is a hobby
  20. So i guess this is not visible from the outside because it is under the lower deck (which lies on level of the second row of seats). I cannot mount it on the right spot anymore. I could think about mounting it just above the lower deck, so that it is visible, but that would be a bit incorrect though?
  21. Steven, there are a few things I am particularly interested in, maybe you know the answers (as I cannot look them up in my book yet): - did they use some sort of colors on these ships?. I am thinking of using some pale red and oker for details, but am not sure about this. - The hypozomata - at which height in the ship was this mounted? Was it visible from the outside?
  22. This afternoon I scored The Age of the Galley: Hardcover! Looking forward to it. Unfortunately it will be delivered to my sister who lives in the UK, so I won't get it until I see her on new year's eve.
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