_SalD_

Small update.  The aft companion ways and skylights were assembled and installed along with the rudderhead housing and compass pedestal.  The companion ways are a little smaller than the laser etched guidelines in the deck used to position them so the lines do show a bit at the ends.  For future reference to myself, I like the simulated decking but I wish I hadn't showed the butt ends of the planking.  It came out too dark.

The bulwark rails were fitted and glued in place.  I chose to stain the railing.

Ship as of today.  I need a better background

I also would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
 

Coming along really nicely, Sal.

Small update.  The aft companion ways and skylights were assembled and installed along with the rudderhead housing and compass pedestal.  The companion ways are a little smaller than the laser etched guidelines in the deck used to position them so the lines do show a bit at the ends.  For future reference to myself, I like the simulated decking but I wish I hadn't showed the butt ends of the planking.  It came out too dark.

The bulwark rails were fitted and glued in place.  I chose to stain the railing.

Ship as of today.  I need a better background

I also would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
 

My next task was to install the eyebolts for the gun tackle into the bulwarks.  I wanted to make sure that I positioned them correctly so I decided to assemble the gun carriages first.  After assembling the carriages I decided that I might as well complete the assembly by adding the cannons.  I was a little dishearten by the size of the cannons, as I think most of the people working on this kit are, because they just look to big for the ship.  I did a little research, and I do mean little, and I found that the overall length of the 9" Dahlgren gun is 131" (10'-11") and the 4" Naval Parrott rifle is 102" (8'-6").  Tables below.


Using my trusty engineer's scale (please excuse it's rough shape) I scaled the cannons and found that at 1/8" to the foot, they are in fact very close to the actual dimensions.  This made me feel better using these cannons and not having to purchase new ones.
 
Dahlgren gun

Parrott rifle

Cannons cleaned up, and the cannons I received the barrels were not bored out so I drilled the ends of each one.

Completed gun carriages.  It's hard to see but I did add the elevating screw at the rear of each Dahlgren gun.

I also found a nice picture of the Marsilly carriage that I used for reference.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The bridges and the main mast bitts were the next task.  After reading bobandlucy's build and seeing how Bob had a problem with the two access ladders for the bridges being too short I decided to move the two platforms inboard a little so the ladders would reach.  I chose not to paint the platforms but left them natural.  I also scored them to simulate planks.

The main mass bitts were assembled, painted and glued in place.

Small update.  The aft companion ways and skylights were assembled and installed along with the rudderhead housing and compass pedestal.  The companion ways are a little smaller than the laser etched guidelines in the deck used to position them so the lines do show a bit at the ends.  For future reference to myself, I like the simulated decking but I wish I hadn't showed the butt ends of the planking.  It came out too dark.

The bulwark rails were fitted and glued in place.  I chose to stain the railing.

Ship as of today.  I need a better background

I also would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
 

Small update.  The aft companion ways and skylights were assembled and installed along with the rudderhead housing and compass pedestal.  The companion ways are a little smaller than the laser etched guidelines in the deck used to position them so the lines do show a bit at the ends.  For future reference to myself, I like the simulated decking but I wish I hadn't showed the butt ends of the planking.  It came out too dark.

The bulwark rails were fitted and glued in place.  I chose to stain the railing.

Ship as of today.  I need a better background

I also would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
 

Small update.  The aft companion ways and skylights were assembled and installed along with the rudderhead housing and compass pedestal.  The companion ways are a little smaller than the laser etched guidelines in the deck used to position them so the lines do show a bit at the ends.  For future reference to myself, I like the simulated decking but I wish I hadn't showed the butt ends of the planking.  It came out too dark.

The bulwark rails were fitted and glued in place.  I chose to stain the railing.

Ship as of today.  I need a better background

I also would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
 

Small update.  The aft companion ways and skylights were assembled and installed along with the rudderhead housing and compass pedestal.  The companion ways are a little smaller than the laser etched guidelines in the deck used to position them so the lines do show a bit at the ends.  For future reference to myself, I like the simulated decking but I wish I hadn't showed the butt ends of the planking.  It came out too dark.

The bulwark rails were fitted and glued in place.  I chose to stain the railing.

Ship as of today.  I need a better background

I also would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
 

Small update.  The aft companion ways and skylights were assembled and installed along with the rudderhead housing and compass pedestal.  The companion ways are a little smaller than the laser etched guidelines in the deck used to position them so the lines do show a bit at the ends.  For future reference to myself, I like the simulated decking but I wish I hadn't showed the butt ends of the planking.  It came out too dark.

The bulwark rails were fitted and glued in place.  I chose to stain the railing.

Ship as of today.  I need a better background

I also would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
 

Small update.  The aft companion ways and skylights were assembled and installed along with the rudderhead housing and compass pedestal.  The companion ways are a little smaller than the laser etched guidelines in the deck used to position them so the lines do show a bit at the ends.  For future reference to myself, I like the simulated decking but I wish I hadn't showed the butt ends of the planking.  It came out too dark.

The bulwark rails were fitted and glued in place.  I chose to stain the railing.

Ship as of today.  I need a better background

I also would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
 

Bulwark Planking and Some Paintin'
 
Finished up the major planking duties with the inner bulwarks.  Feels good to have all the major planking effort done!   Also visible are the beam pocket strips for the top deck beams.   I would emphasize to spend some extra time on making sure these are situated right.  There is really not much leeway for error here.  The instructions point this out, but I would amplify it.
 

 

 
Started some painting.  The outside planks at the ports was a shellac mix, 1/3 each of clear, amber, and alcohol, 3 coats looks about right to me.
 

 
Put in the window frames.  They went in with a perfect fit - but only because I took my time at the framing step to get the dimensions right.
 

 
At this point in the planned sequence, they start into the coppering of the lower hull.  I'm dreading this just a little bit 
 
I have ordered a tool from Artesania Latina to hopefully make the process of marking the copper tape a lot faster and easier.  We will see how that goes.  It's coming from across the pond so it'll be a bit before I see it, so in the meantime I'm going to work on hatches and other low profile deck stuff while I wait...
 

My next task was to install the eyebolts for the gun tackle into the bulwarks.  I wanted to make sure that I positioned them correctly so I decided to assemble the gun carriages first.  After assembling the carriages I decided that I might as well complete the assembly by adding the cannons.  I was a little dishearten by the size of the cannons, as I think most of the people working on this kit are, because they just look to big for the ship.  I did a little research, and I do mean little, and I found that the overall length of the 9" Dahlgren gun is 131" (10'-11") and the 4" Naval Parrott rifle is 102" (8'-6").  Tables below.


Using my trusty engineer's scale (please excuse it's rough shape) I scaled the cannons and found that at 1/8" to the foot, they are in fact very close to the actual dimensions.  This made me feel better using these cannons and not having to purchase new ones.
 
Dahlgren gun

Parrott rifle

Cannons cleaned up, and the cannons I received the barrels were not bored out so I drilled the ends of each one.

Completed gun carriages.  It's hard to see but I did add the elevating screw at the rear of each Dahlgren gun.

I also found a nice picture of the Marsilly carriage that I used for reference.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

My next task was to install the eyebolts for the gun tackle into the bulwarks.  I wanted to make sure that I positioned them correctly so I decided to assemble the gun carriages first.  After assembling the carriages I decided that I might as well complete the assembly by adding the cannons.  I was a little dishearten by the size of the cannons, as I think most of the people working on this kit are, because they just look to big for the ship.  I did a little research, and I do mean little, and I found that the overall length of the 9" Dahlgren gun is 131" (10'-11") and the 4" Naval Parrott rifle is 102" (8'-6").  Tables below.


Using my trusty engineer's scale (please excuse it's rough shape) I scaled the cannons and found that at 1/8" to the foot, they are in fact very close to the actual dimensions.  This made me feel better using these cannons and not having to purchase new ones.
 
Dahlgren gun

Parrott rifle

Cannons cleaned up, and the cannons I received the barrels were not bored out so I drilled the ends of each one.

Completed gun carriages.  It's hard to see but I did add the elevating screw at the rear of each Dahlgren gun.

I also found a nice picture of the Marsilly carriage that I used for reference.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

My next task was to install the eyebolts for the gun tackle into the bulwarks.  I wanted to make sure that I positioned them correctly so I decided to assemble the gun carriages first.  After assembling the carriages I decided that I might as well complete the assembly by adding the cannons.  I was a little dishearten by the size of the cannons, as I think most of the people working on this kit are, because they just look to big for the ship.  I did a little research, and I do mean little, and I found that the overall length of the 9" Dahlgren gun is 131" (10'-11") and the 4" Naval Parrott rifle is 102" (8'-6").  Tables below.


Using my trusty engineer's scale (please excuse it's rough shape) I scaled the cannons and found that at 1/8" to the foot, they are in fact very close to the actual dimensions.  This made me feel better using these cannons and not having to purchase new ones.
 
Dahlgren gun

Parrott rifle

Cannons cleaned up, and the cannons I received the barrels were not bored out so I drilled the ends of each one.

Completed gun carriages.  It's hard to see but I did add the elevating screw at the rear of each Dahlgren gun.

I also found a nice picture of the Marsilly carriage that I used for reference.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The bridges and the main mast bitts were the next task.  After reading bobandlucy's build and seeing how Bob had a problem with the two access ladders for the bridges being too short I decided to move the two platforms inboard a little so the ladders would reach.  I chose not to paint the platforms but left them natural.  I also scored them to simulate planks.

The main mass bitts were assembled, painted and glued in place.

My next task was to install the eyebolts for the gun tackle into the bulwarks.  I wanted to make sure that I positioned them correctly so I decided to assemble the gun carriages first.  After assembling the carriages I decided that I might as well complete the assembly by adding the cannons.  I was a little dishearten by the size of the cannons, as I think most of the people working on this kit are, because they just look to big for the ship.  I did a little research, and I do mean little, and I found that the overall length of the 9" Dahlgren gun is 131" (10'-11") and the 4" Naval Parrott rifle is 102" (8'-6").  Tables below.


Using my trusty engineer's scale (please excuse it's rough shape) I scaled the cannons and found that at 1/8" to the foot, they are in fact very close to the actual dimensions.  This made me feel better using these cannons and not having to purchase new ones.
 
Dahlgren gun

Parrott rifle

Cannons cleaned up, and the cannons I received the barrels were not bored out so I drilled the ends of each one.

Completed gun carriages.  It's hard to see but I did add the elevating screw at the rear of each Dahlgren gun.

I also found a nice picture of the Marsilly carriage that I used for reference.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Well again, a few weeks have passed since my last post.  During that time I have worked on the masts and rigging.  In my last post I mentioned that the material for the masts are cut from the basswood sheets and then sanded round.  I kind of cheated.  I fashioned the lower portion of each mast from dowelling purchased from the local hardware store and then, using a drill motor and sandpaper, I tapered the dowels so they pretty much matched the dimensions on the plans.  The other sections of the masts were fashioned from the provided material.   Turning tapered square pieces into tapered round pieces actually was easier than I thought.  First, I built a jig to hold the square pieces on edge.  The edge was then flattened by sanding and then the piece was rotated 90 degrees.  Four rotations and you have a tapered octagon stick.  Next I sanded lightly while rolling the octagon stick on my work table.  Soon you have a tapered round stick you can use for a mast section.  You do have to be careful when rolling and sanding because it is easy to end up with an elliptical stick (I know).  Since all the mast pieces were made from light woods; I opted for painting.  A coat of primer; light sanding and then a few color coats completed the masts.  I then epoxied the lower sections of each mast into their appropriate locations on the deck.
 
Next comes rigging.  The first step is constructing the chains and dead eyes.  The chains are photo ech brass.  I purchased some blackening agent and soaked the pieces for about 15 minutes.  I then epoxied the deadeyes into the "slot" on the chains.   I followed the instructions to affix the chains to the hull.  I did, however, have to touchup the chains with black paint as much of the blacken surface rubbed off.  Next came the shrouds.  Again I followed the instructions.  I did build a jig from music wire which I used to maintain the same spacing between each dead eye in the chain and the dead eye in the shroud.  Look at the side view of the model provided in the plans when working on this task.  Most of the shrouds are secured around the top of the lower section of the mast; but a few are secured around higher sections.  I didn't discover this until I had mislocated a few and had to undue my handywork.
 
With the shrouds in place I am now working the the rigging.  The best way to describe my efforts is  I AM LOST.  I find the written directions difficult to follow so I am using the side view on the plans and the photos on the box to get thru this task.  I am sure I have rigging running to places that rigging is not supposed to go and I am sure that I am not using the correct attachments; but, it looks pretty authentic to some who knows little about sailing ships.  I have a lot to learn about how to rig a model.
 
Here are a few more images of the build.

Main Decking
 
Before I got any further along, I decided I didn't like the recommended method of adding the Knightheads.   They have you waiting until all the bulwark planking is done (inside and out), and cutting a square opening wide enough for the upper part of the knightheads and the bowsprit between them, and only as low as the bottom of the bowsprit.  That would make them very fragile I think.  So I went ahead and made them all the way down to the frames, and drilled a hole in the outer planking.  (It's rounder than it looks in this picture, oddly).  This is much more secure.  I also added some scrap strips to either side to receive the ends of the inner bulwark planking.
 

 
Then, in goes the false deck.  Like the instructions say, this is not a tight, aligned fit.  There will be significant gaps on the edges.  These will be covered with the margin planks (laser cut).  Obviously the important thing is to get it centered correctly.  Then drill the mast stub holes into the blocking we previously installed.   In my opinion, the masts as depicted in the plan are longer than they need to be, and I felt funny about drilling the holes that deep.  I will adjust as needed when I get there.
 

 
And here all the planking is done.  I've got a few rough spots and room for improvement next time, but all in all I'm happy with it.  Will need a bit more finish sanding before finishing, and that part has got me having a hard time deciding which way to go.  Thinking about shellac.  I've got amber, which might make a nice look, perhaps cut with clear to make it less pronounced.  Or some kind of stain wash.  Decisions.  Luckily I don't need to make that one today.  I'm going to continue on to do the inside bulwark planking while I ponder finishes.
 

 

Many thanks for you`re compliment John....
I just came from the copy shop and placed an order for the shipnames and homeport (aft rounding and forecastle sides). The lady said it would be best to print in white on black self adhesive foil. See what comes out when finished...
The pics are showing the cutting of the 30 x 50 mm plating pannels with the paper table-guillotine, while the siliconed paper protection foil is still on. The gluefilm is acetat and it sticks like hell. A tool is actually required to remove the plating again
Nils

 

 
 
 

Update
 
getting along with the plating job. My worries have calmed down, looks like there will still be enough foil on the roll
 
Nils

 

the waterline is marked again

here, to be seen for Andy, the bottom is nearly flat

The bridges and the main mast bitts were the next task.  After reading bobandlucy's build and seeing how Bob had a problem with the two access ladders for the bridges being too short I decided to move the two platforms inboard a little so the ladders would reach.  I chose not to paint the platforms but left them natural.  I also scored them to simulate planks.

The main mass bitts were assembled, painted and glued in place.

Update
I`m working on the anchor gear, today I made one of the two workable mini chain stoppers, the anchor tubes at the forcastle, and the anchor fairleads
 
Nils

for documentation (all decks) where the frames and supporting structure are situated I attched a scale before mounting the closed decks

the anchors are from cast metal, one can see where I plugged off  hole in the skin made by an error

the anchor fairleads are from brass-coated steel
 
 

forecastle deck outlet of the anchorchain tubes

the raw forecastle deck is on

one of the two chain-stoppers

Everything is looking good.  Great build.

The bridges and the main mast bitts were the next task.  After reading bobandlucy's build and seeing how Bob had a problem with the two access ladders for the bridges being too short I decided to move the two platforms inboard a little so the ladders would reach.  I chose not to paint the platforms but left them natural.  I also scored them to simulate planks.

The main mass bitts were assembled, painted and glued in place.