USS Essex 1799 Frigate by rlwhitt - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:76

[rlwhitt]

Welcome to my log for the Model Shipways MS2041 US Frigate Essex, Hull Model.  

 

I've had my eye on this kit since I started not very long ago in wood kits.   I liked the looks of it, and since I'd already known I wasn't going to be big on fully rigged models, the "Admiralty Style" had a lot of appeal to me.   This one and the Confederacy immediately went on my wish list.  Then I started looking for build logs and realized that there were a number of bad rumblings about the kit.  It seems that there was a snafu with MS getting the correct digital files used in the production of the kit in 2013, its first release.  The kit was re-released in 2015, but I think by then folks were wary.  The designer made a comment herein that they never did incorporate all his changes, though the kit definitely did undergo some changes in 2015, as can be seen in the manual.  So not sure what the exact story is.  A while back MS put all their kits on sale 47% off and I could not resist so went ahead and got it, so here we are.  How bad can it be right?  I'll do my best to work around anything I find.  I do know that one of the main issues with the initial build being the shape of some frames not matching the contemporary drawings or AOTS exactly, but there were a number of drawings with no way to reconcile them all.  If I'm getting the details a bit off I apologize.  I have a feeling some of these conversations were occurring offline.  My main concerns at my level of experience is that the thing is buildable for an intermediate builder and will create a pleasing model.  At this point if a frame shape is a bit off 100% of the historic accuracy, I'm not sweating it.  Hopefully by the end of this, if it builds OK it will encourage others, who like myself were a bit wary, to take the plunge.  

 

I don't really intend for this to be a very detailed log, mostly a milestones and exceptions kind of thing.  If I have trouble that ought to be known, I'll show that and what I come up with to work around it.

 

Thanks all for looking!

 

Edited January 6 by rlwhitt

[rlwhitt]

Bones

 

So I've gotten through the basic framing, sans stern framing.  A couple of observations.  First is that ALL the bulkheads fit quite loose on the keelson/former, even with the char still intact.  Some were "rattling loose".  So, much shimming was required.  As for the vertical fit I only had to adjust a couple by a very small amount to make the top even + bottom right at the rabbet, so that part was good.  

 

As you can see in the first picture, there is a rather big issue with a gap at the scarf joint.  Since this hull will be coppered on the bottom, this is no big deal.  Some scrap wood and filler does the repair deed.

 

 

The 2015 re-release included an optional "strong back" method to use a couple of thick strip "spines" along the keelson former and through some slots cut into most of the bulkheads.  Tricky alignment to get those spines in there, but mine went in pretty easy.  I also added some additional stiffeners near the outboard edges of the bulkheads, for more confident fairing.  This thing is strong, that's for sure!

 

The rest is just pictures of the framing so far, including mast blocks and some bow filler, with rough fairing done.

 

 

 

 

[rlwhitt]

Framing Complete

 

So I've finished the framing (stern and gun port) with very little drama.  One thing that needs to be pointed out is a discrepancy between the framing plan sheet and the instructions, for the stern framing.  Following the plan would put the stern windows at the wrong height.  The pictures in the instructions are correct, and I've patterned mine after that, as shown in the first photo.  Additionally, just to make sure, I got out the stern arch piece and dry fit that to verify that the window line is right. 

 

 

Next, the significant task of gun port framing, old school.  No laser cut sills and lintels here!  Just tons of little sticks.  Actually, I enjoy this step.  I know a lot of folks find it quite tedious.  I guess it is, but it's one of those things where you feel like you're actually building something, and I find it satisfying when done.  

 

On the framing plan the framing parts stated to be 3/16" were actually drawn a little too small, like 1/8" or so, but the text legends are correct.  And the instructions of measuring up 1/8" from top of bulkheads for the bottom of the sills seems to work out correctly for the 3/16" dimension and the measured height of one of the gun carriages.

 

So the framing is complete and rough sanded.  Next some finer sanding work and onto planking, where the real test (for me) will be.  

 

 

[rlwhitt]

Upper Planking

 

Hello all, it's been a little while.  Turns out planking at this scale takes a while  🙂

Thanks for the likes and views so far!

 

Outer bulwarks and stern are planked.  Many places I wish were better, but as this is my first "real" full ship with gun-ports, etc, I'm satisfied.  This is why we build more than one right? - so we learn to be better next time!

 

I think at this point in the build, many will put in the wales.  Oddly the written instructions in this kit never mention them.  They just magically appear in the pictures a bit further on, after the lower planking is in place.  I will assume from this context, and a lack of sufficient thicker stock, that the intention is to put on a second layer of the same planking for the wales.  Which is what I'll do - so next task will be to start that lower planking.  There is a decision of sorts to be made here, in my opinion.  As designed, the plan here is a very simplified planking where the middle section is done with straight(ish) planks, with all the butt joints on 2 frames, followed by the bow and stern sections.  Not sure how I feel about this, but most is under copper plating or a little bit is painted, so I understand why they went this way.  We'll see.

 

 

 

[rlwhitt]

Lower Planking and Wales

 

So I went ahead and followed the instructions for the simplified planking, first with garboard and a couple of lower planks.  These are supposed to be 3/16" for all 6 but there were only 5 provided, so I did the garboard with a 1/4".  Then the middle section, followed by the stern and bow sections.  I ended up with quite a crazy quilt of planks!   But since it'll all be under copper and paint below the wales, I'm not sweating it too much.  Here it's rough filled and sanded, I will do a finer sanding once the other side is done.  I did the wales with some  extra 1/4" strip instead of the 1/8" planking. 

 

 

 

[Der Alte Rentner]

Are you planning to paint over the hull?  

[allanyed]

Hi Rick,

Very neat work all around, kudos!

Do you know if other US ships were planked to create stops at the upper sills of the gun ports as you show or was this peculiar to the Essex?  I know RN ships typically did not create stops on top of the ports, just the sides and bottom, but I am unfamiliar with US ships.  

Thanks

Allan

[rlwhitt]

7 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

Are you planning to paint over the hull?  

Below waterline will be copper tape. Most of the rest of the hull will be black.  The line of main deck gun ports will not be black, but I’ve not yet totally decided what that line of planks will be.  I might try to leave it somewhat natural, maybe finish with shellac.  I did do the “tar” joints with that possibility in mind.  However there is some evidence that they were actually yellow, and I could go that way.

[rlwhitt]

4 hours ago, allanyed said:

Hi Rick,

Very neat work all around, kudos!

Do you know if other US ships were planked to create stops at the upper sills of the gun ports as you show or was this peculiar to the Essex?  I know RN ships typically did not create stops on top of the ports, just the sides and bottom, but I am unfamiliar with US ships.  

Thanks

Allan

Thanks Allen!  By stops you mean the little bit of red margin that is not planked?  My understanding is that this was not done on the top ports as they didn’t have lids, so I did not do them here.  I must confess you’re asking someone not yet very well researched, so my knowledge journey is just beginning!

[mtaylor]

Generally speaking, Rick, if the gunports didn't have lids or bucklers (I could be wrong on the bucklers), they didn't have the port stops

[allanyed]

On 6/25/2023 at 6:04 PM, rlwhitt said:

 My understanding is that this was not done on the top ports as they didn’t have lids, so I did not do them here.

I have seen both on contemporary models but not sure why they did that.  It has always been my understanding that there were no port lids where the ports were on open deck areas such as in the waste or on the QD and FC so there was no reason for having stops.

On 6/25/2023 at 6:04 PM, rlwhitt said:

By stops you mean the little bit of red margin that is not planked?

 I was indeed asking about the red lining areas which were actually edges of the frames and lower sill.    I realize there always seems to be exceptions but the sketch below is what I was asking about, hope it is more clear than words.  The first sketch is based on what I recently learned here at MSW and should be close to how these were done on the actual ships, and the second is closer to what can be done on a POB model.

Allan

 

 

Edited June 27, 2023 by allanyed

[rlwhitt]

External Planking Complete

 

A milestone!  The hardest part, in my opinion, completed planking.  This model only has one layer.  Everything will be black paint or copper below the wales.  But before that happens, I'll be moving inside for the bulwark planking and decking.  Much sanding left to do!

 

 

[rlwhitt]

Main Decking

 

Before I got any further along, I decided I didn't like the recommended method of adding the Knightheads.   They have you waiting until all the bulwark planking is done (inside and out), and cutting a square opening wide enough for the upper part of the knightheads and the bowsprit between them, and only as low as the bottom of the bowsprit.  That would make them very fragile I think.  So I went ahead and made them all the way down to the frames, and drilled a hole in the outer planking.  (It's rounder than it looks in this picture, oddly).  This is much more secure.  I also added some scrap strips to either side to receive the ends of the inner bulwark planking.

 

 

Then, in goes the false deck.  Like the instructions say, this is not a tight, aligned fit.  There will be significant gaps on the edges.  These will be covered with the margin planks (laser cut).  Obviously the important thing is to get it centered correctly.  Then drill the mast stub holes into the blocking we previously installed.   In my opinion, the masts as depicted in the plan are longer than they need to be, and I felt funny about drilling the holes that deep.  I will adjust as needed when I get there.

 

 

And here all the planking is done.  I've got a few rough spots and room for improvement next time, but all in all I'm happy with it.  Will need a bit more finish sanding before finishing, and that part has got me having a hard time deciding which way to go.  Thinking about shellac.  I've got amber, which might make a nice look, perhaps cut with clear to make it less pronounced.  Or some kind of stain wash.  Decisions.  Luckily I don't need to make that one today.  I'm going to continue on to do the inside bulwark planking while I ponder finishes.

 

 

[allanyed]

The finish on your hull planking looks very nicely done!   Regarding the wales at the bow in the pictures in post # 12 above, you may want to see a recent discussion on the tapering of the thickness of the wales.   https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34868-wales-diminishing-thickness-at-the-bow/    

Thanks for sharing your build!

Allan

[rlwhitt]

19 hours ago, allanyed said:

The finish on your hull planking looks very nicely done!   Regarding the wales at the bow in the pictures in post # 12 above, you may want to see a recent discussion on the tapering of the thickness of the wales.   https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34868-wales-diminishing-thickness-at-the-bow/    

Thanks for sharing your build!

Allan

 

Thanks for the reminder Allan.  I did see the thread and thought I'd do that, need to remember to do so before the outside paiting starts. 

[rlwhitt]

Bulwark Planking and Some Paintin'

 

Finished up the major planking duties with the inner bulwarks.  Feels good to have all the major planking effort done!   Also visible are the beam pocket strips for the top deck beams.   I would emphasize to spend some extra time on making sure these are situated right.  There is really not much leeway for error here.  The instructions point this out, but I would amplify it.

 

 

 

Started some painting.  The outside planks at the ports was a shellac mix, 1/3 each of clear, amber, and alcohol, 3 coats looks about right to me.

 

 

Put in the window frames.  They went in with a perfect fit - but only because I took my time at the framing step to get the dimensions right.

 

 

At this point in the planned sequence, they start into the coppering of the lower hull.  I'm dreading this just a little bit 

 

I have ordered a tool from Artesania Latina to hopefully make the process of marking the copper tape a lot faster and easier.  We will see how that goes.  It's coming from across the pond so it'll be a bit before I see it, so in the meantime I'm going to work on hatches and other low profile deck stuff while I wait...

 

[rlwhitt]

Stern and Quarter Galleries

 

First up, trim out the stern piece with some tiny strip stock, paint and decorate with the PE brass decorations, painted.  

 

 

Now for the Quarter Galleries.  As is common practice, at least with MS kits, these are provides as Britannia metal bits.  These are just sad.  They really don't fit together or with the hull.  Not sure how anyone manages to make these look good.  I don't think I can.

 

 

So I decided to scratch build the galleries.  I have the Confederacy kit from MS in my queue to do and Chuck's design builds up the galleries from parts supplied - a much superior design.  I'm going to shamelessly steal what makes sense from those instructions, modifying as I need to fit this model.  One of the main differences will be I don't need to make the windows clear because there's nothing to see back here on this kit - just a plank wall.  

 

Starting by making a "floor" piece.  This is sort of just eyeballed as to shape, taking the length from the plans.

 

 

Then added a slightly smaller piece of similar shape below it, attached to the bottom of the lower counter board.  These horizontal parts are 1/16" scrap stock.

 

 

Next I need to make a "wall" between the 2 pieces.  I could have made this lower section by laminating some thicker pieces, as I ended up doing with the upper part coming up later.  But I decided to try using some 1/32" stock to make a planking sort of deal.  I used the traced frog tape method to make a spiled piece to fit.  It is basically made tight enough to be a press fit in here - I did not try to make any framing behind it.  

 

 

I did however make a frame for the curved window wall, which is a bit of 1/32" sheet with the grain vertical for easy bending.  

 

 

This followed by another thin skin, this one cut out for the laser cut window frames

 

 

Moving on to the drops.  Used some suitably sized scrap to try to make an approximation of the shape of the bottom of the provided lower part.  This one has an eagle molded in, which I'll have to forego.  Oh well...

 

 

And here I've glued them to the floor and begun filling and shaping.  Need lots of wood filler here.

 

 

Moving to the upper part.  For these I laminated a thick and a thin piece, then carved and sanded down to a pleasing shape.

 

 

For the tops, the plans show this one has a little roof like thing with "shingles".  I decided I wanted to show these.  Luckily I happen to have a nice Japanese screw punch (it's a bookbinding tool) from my card modelling days.  It makes nice little circles (or holes, depending on what you need).  Cut in half and glued on makes a nice shingle effect.  

 

 

Fast forward a little after some finishing and painting.  There are some PE brass decorations that will go on a couple of places, but I'm going to hold off on that until near the end.  I'm pleased with the way these came out, and MUCH happier than I'd been trying to make those metal parts work.

 

 

[ccoyle]

Outstanding -- a great improvement over the kit parts!

[milosmail]

Very Nice, to make an understatement!

[mugje]

Your work so far looks really good! Very clean, I like it  

[rlwhitt]

Miscellaneous Upper Bits

 

Thanks so much for all the likes and comments!  

 

I could easily call this section  "stuff I'm doing to avoid coppering", but officially I'll say getting as much done now that will be OK to turn upside down.

 

Starting with some of the low, non fragile deck bits.  Mast surrounds, grates, capstan bases:

 

 

Adding cap rails, trim, and the little scroll trim bits at the hances.  Plus upper bulwark black painting.  Holding off on painting the tops of the fore and midships cap rails as they will have stanchions and upper rails attached.

 

 

 

 

.  

[rlwhitt]

Copper Plating

 

I seriously considered painting the lower hull with Model Masters Oxidizing Copper Paint.  This stuff has actual copper flake in it and is supposed to patina naturally over time.  Or you can buy an accelerator to make green or blue patina immediately.  I bought a bottle of the paint and painted some samples.  I considered getting the accelerator, but by then I'd decided I didn't think I'd like the way it looked and that I would bite the bullet and go with the copper plating tape in the kit.  

 

I also experimented with this tool.  It's from Artesania Latina.  It comes in kit form, you have to put it together.   It looks promising because it combines fine edge divots, coarser mid plate ones in an alternating pattern, and seam markers.   Theory is you just roll this thing down the tape and make all your marks in one quick pass.  Much Time Saved!   It works, but my main issue with it is that it's VERY hard to keep it going in a straight line keeping things properly aligned.  Really no good way to run it in a guide or straightedge to guide it, that I could come up with at least.  Plus it's got so many sharp points hitting the copper all at once it wants to pull the tape away from the backing and wrap around the wheels.  Maybe this has promise, and someone will figure a better way to use it.  But I'm putting it in a drawer for now and going back to a bit more old school, but tedious method.  

 

 

I made a simple card stock and tape jig, that I can use to produce 9 tiles at a time. Using the straight edge to guide a fine pounce wheel (sewing tool, Excel brand) for one edge and one side of each tile.  Only marking one side and end because the tiles will be overlap jointed.  I made a little wood jig to poke the mid-plate lines.  That part is a bit tedious, but it's fast.  Could probably be made quicker by making a multi-pin stamp, but I've tried making one and can never seem to get all the pins straight and the same length.   Once all the divots are poked, just take a knife and cut each joint, careful to cut just the copper and not the backing.  This gives a really easy to use strip of plates that peel off easily.

 

 

And so it begins.  About 100 plates laid - only about 900 more to go 

 

Edited August 18, 2023 by rlwhitt

[rlwhitt]

Coppering Complete!

 

I was dreading this, but I've got to say it wasn't too bad.  Just didn't try any marathon sessions to get too burned out at one sitting.  Finished up being about 1200-1300 tiles.  Whew!  Couple of coats of shellac to seal some edges and corners to help keep them from peeling.  Now it's on to guns and other deck paraphernalia.

 

 

[mugje]

That looks real good! Nice and clean!

[rlwhitt]

Guns and Other Bit(t)s

 

It's been a little slow going of late.  I have gotten to the guns and I find this part quite tedious, especially cleaning the britannia barrels.  I know there are options to buy better ones, but I didn't feel like spending the $$ on this one.  Maybe in future builds like the Confederacy.  I've made one prototype and all the rest (25) of the main deck carriages.  Still to finish the remaining barrels and breech ropes.  I will not be fully rigging the guns.   And to reduce the boredom have been alternating other parts.  I think it's safe to say there will be no 100-gun ships of the line in my future 

 

Shown is the one sample gun temporarily placed, retracted.  I've simplified a bit by just using a larger eyebolt instead of a small eyebolt and ring on the bulwarks and carriages.  Not exactly scale accuracy, but better for my sanity.  As for the holes in the bulwarks, I made a little jig with a wooden plug to fit in the gun port glued to a bit of heavy card stock with holes in the right places.  Then I put a small drill bit into the end of a dowel and reached through the opposing gun port to drill the holes.  This made quite short (and accurate) work of the job.

 

 

 

For a break, went ahead and made the 2 sets of bitts and installed them:

 

 

And also went ahead and did the non-fragile bits of the headworks.  A few of the supplied parts here I will call "fantasy parts", as only in a wild fantasy will they fit as described.  Had to roll some of my own here.  

 

[rlwhitt]

Gun Deck Complete

 

Big milestone.  Guns and main deck bits all in.  Now on to upper deck beams.  Sort of feels a bit like more of a downhill trek from here!

 

 

[mugje]

Looking great!

[rlwhitt]

Spar Deck

 

It's been a while since last post.  Came down with a bit of a case of "lazy blogger syndrome".  So to catch up, I've done the upper deck beams, bitts, and hatches, planking all the areas that will be planked.  Need some touch ups on several areas of the upper deck but will get those when I return for the deck furniture and guns.  Started on the outside hull details.

 

 

 

 

[schooner]

First of all let me say that you are doing a GREAT job on this build, very clean and sharp!

 

I've had my eye on this kit for a while because I don't have the room for a rigged ship of that size. I've done a fair number of wood kits but I was wondering if you used anything other than hand tools in your build? The only power tool I have is a Dremel that I use for sanding (I might buy a small disc or belt sander to help with the frames).

 

Thanks and keep up the great work!

[rlwhitt]

On 11/30/2023 at 1:47 PM, schooner said:

First of all let me say that you are doing a GREAT job on this build, very clean and sharp!

 

I've had my eye on this kit for a while because I don't have the room for a rigged ship of that size. I've done a fair number of wood kits but I was wondering if you used anything other than hand tools in your build? The only power tool I have is a Dremel that I use for sanding (I might buy a small disc or belt sander to help with the frames).

 

Thanks and keep up the great work!

 

Hi Tim.  

 

So sorry I'm so late responding.  For some reason I didn't see the reply come in.  Thanks for the kind words!   As for the size of this ship kit finished, it's a hull-only, with just 4" high mast stubs (optional), so display size for me is just going to be a bookcase  shelf.  I'm in the same "boat" so to speak, I won't have a bunch of room for fully rigged ship display.  Also I'm not a fan of doing rigging, so the hull only "Admiralty Style" is going to be my main focus (I am planning to fully rig the Mayflower next, but it's a pretty small model even so).

 

I indeed am only using the simplest hand tools.  I too have a dremel, and a Proxxon detail sander, but that's it for power tools.  I've considered a disk sander but until/unless I get into some (semi)scratch building, I think it'd be overkill for me.  I do plan to get a little manual tool called a "Sand-It" for making good square and mitered ends.  Mostly I'm making do with simple stuff that I carried over from my Card Modelling past.  And I plan to keep it that way as I don't have a ton of working space and I sort of like the feel of keeping it old school.   As long as I'm doing kits (for the foreseeable future) I think that's going to be enough to keep me happy.

Edited December 19, 2023 by rlwhitt