le débutant

Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007
 
The next two photos are documenting another activity, this one much more long and difficult of the previous: the construction of the fiferail with its timber heads. I hope fiferail is the proper name. I've found it on "The 100-gun ship Victory", a book from John McKay, Conway Maritime Press.
 
I took about 3 hours to cut the timber heads and to sand them properly. In addition I had to use my Dremel tool to adapt the size of the square holes in the fiferail and in the underneath planksheer.
 
I consider the final result as very, very good. Then I have coated the fiferail and the timber heads with transparent paint. Next I will try to refine better the heads.
 
To complete the forecastle I need now to prepare 18 additional heads, 9 per each side and to fix them on the forecastle planksheer.
A very ..... boring job !
 

 

Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007
 
Then, as last activity done, I have started to paint the lower part of the hull. In the attached image the area below the blue line.
 
I the past the area was coated with danish oil that now is totally dry. In this area I don't foresee further activities, with the exception of the installation of the rudder.
So, in my mind, it was time to do something. I used then a transparent matt varnish with two main objectives:
1) fill as much as possible the invisible slits (I hope this is the right word)
2) protect the lower part of the hull from any possible accidental damage
 
Working on this activity I have done a quite strange experience. In practice I have applied the same paint, practically in the same moment, over two different types of wood, both coated previously with oil: 1) sapele and 2) walnut.
The result was that the day after the coat of varnish, I found it completely dry over the sapele wood and absolutely wet over the walnut !! It took four additional days to dry over the walnut !! I can't explain this fact. Has anyone tasted the same experience ?
 
Please note in the image the new stand. I had to build it when the keel clanper was no further usable on this model. It is very, very stable and, if needed, can be clamped to the workbench. Also the lateral wale reinforcements are clearly visible here.
 

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007
 
The starboard side of my Santìsima Trinidad is now completed. In addition to the wales, made with walnut, there are, in the topmost side of the hull, some veneer stripes of mahogany.
 

 

Yes 

Woww impressive,start from nothing i have a lot of respect for you.

Not been upto much victory wise due to still aiting for timber to arrive for the wales and garden and outbuilding maintenance- oh the joy of built up felt roofing!!! Have been working on the gun carriages between though.

matt white base coat applied.

Iron work picked out in black.

Coats of light oak stain/varnish applied- about two more coats to go. The wheels will be done with dark oak.
Keith

Yes 

You will have to paint the metal on the stern

FINISHED! I decided to add a stern lantern to finish it off. There are still a number of errors but I am fairly satisfied how it came out. I want to thank everyone for all the loos & likes during the build.The problem now is where to put it - it`s almost 4 ft long. An even bigger problem is deciding what to build next I will try to put a few more pics in the gallery.
 

 

 

 
 

 
/Mark

Congrats on the Santa Ana, I was torn between the AL Santa Ana and the AL Victory. I chose the Victory, but I sorely wanted to build the Santa Ana as well. But don't let first impressions fool you. The AL Victory at first glance looked to be a well cut kit as well. But once I got to building it, I have had to shim almost every bulkhead in order to get a fair run of the upper and lower hull. The kit will produce a nice model upon completion, but it requires a lot more work to do so then most other kits that I have purchased by Artesania Latina in the past. I hope you do a build log on her.

Check out You Tube, there is a build video on the Santa Ana
 
Joe

Tanks for the good word.

Congratulations on your purchase.In my opinion the Santa Ana is a beautiful ship and probably my favourite in Artesenia's collection.I did stumble on one build on the net that was mildly modified and was stunning.I regret I didn't save the address or I would have given you the link.From memory,very little was changed other than the gratings,but the colour scheme was changed to reflect Spanish ships of the period.All I can suggest is having a hunt on Google.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

i am so glad,today a made the jump,
i by this kit as the next build.
My creole queen is moving forward and i was looking for my next build for the last few month,
and now the kit is home with me.
 
I was unable to resist to open the box.
My first impression is,watt a kit,my last 3 kit were badly cut on the wood,this one the wood is 
very thick and just playing with the piece by pressure those one release from the wood.
 
I will take time to check all parts and see if everything are included.

Good work,i will continue to watch,the lesson for me is to find the mistake and be able to correct it.
 
You did good.

more

more

finished planking rear quarters and started the bulwarks.

here are a few more pics. Thank you for looking

Hi all. Recently, after finishing my miniature model of "Dorade" I started on my new model, a 1/192 scale model of the 54m long schooner "Ingomar". Built in 1903 and designed by Nathaniel Herreshoff, Ingomar was one of the fastest and most successful racing schooners of its day. Such is the beauty of this boat, that it has been recreated now by Graafships; the only problem being that the person funding the project, unfortunately ran out of money and only the hull has been built. The hull is currently for sale. Hopefully someone rich enough will buy the hull and complete the project; thereby creating a modern full size version of this beautiful ship. Any rich people out there?
 
Anyhow, back to my model! Given the small size of the hull (13 cms approx), I agonised about what sort of material the hull should be built from. Whatever I chose had to be structurally strong enough to be cut into small enough strips to simulate the frames, etc. Also, the fact that the full sized ship was steel framed, basically meant that I couldn't use wood. Much to my distaste, I reluctantly settled on plasticard to build the keel and hull! I've always shied away from plasticard, but this time, it was the only logical choice. I will paint the hull's frames and keel later to make it look like it authentic.
 
The hull will be built with as much of the internal accommodation as possible installed in the hull and visible through large cutaways of the hull and exposed deck beams.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos. More photos will follow as work progresses.

Yes 

You will have to paint the metal on the stern

I’m finished with all the preparation of the rigging and started to install the cannons on the upper deck.
..enjoy..
 

 
I still have 14 more to go, but so far I’m pleased with the result.
 

 

 

 

 

 
It is starting to look a bit more messy now ..