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Be sure to add plenty drawers, big ones for drawings, shallow ones for tools. If space isn't an issue make more that you think you'll need and you'll probably end up with just enough
 




 
And check the thread with all the members's workshops, you catch some ideas there too.
 
Remco

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Next step is fitting the jibboom and associated head rigging. Key points include:
 
>>> Deadeye assemblies prepared with silver soldered rings
>>> Deadeye assemblies fitted to bow
>>> Jibboom / dolphin striker outfitted with eyebands
>>> Jibboom / dolphan striker fitted and head rigging installed
>>> Martingale stays and backstays fabricated from 27 links/in brass chain
>>> Balance of head rigging installation consists of tieing off the fore stays that pass down through the bowsprit bees and jibboom sheeves (following foremast installation)
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thanks for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Next step is complete metal outfit, paint, and rigging setup of spars. Key points include:
 
>>> Metal outfit, bands, sheeve holes, etc. per Rigging Setup Lists
>>> Paint per Paint Schedule
>>> Rigging blocks, rigging lines, and fittings per Rigging Set Up Lists
 
Peter Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Additional mast assembly and outfit fittings. A list of special "Newsboy" rigging fittings typical of the mid 1800's is listed below:
 
Spar Setup
 
(1) Royal yard parrel assembly (special fabrication)
(1) Topgallant yard parrel assembly (special fabrication)
(1) Upper topsail yard parrel assembly (special fabrication)
(2) Upper topsail yard studding boom quarter iron (special fabrication)
(2) Upper topsail yard studding boom iron (special fabrication)
(2) Lower yard studding boom quarter iron (special fabrication)
(2) Lower yard studding boom iron (special fabrication)
(1) Lower topsail yard clevis assembly (Britannia casting)
(1) Lower topsail yard truss assembly (Britannia castings)
(1) Lower yard truss assembly (Britannia castings)
(1) Boom sheet assembly (special fabrication)
 
Mast Setup
 
(1) Main mast crane (special fabrication)
(1) Fore mast cap clevis assembly (special assembly)
(1) Fore mast clevis assembly (special fabrication)
(1) Iron stay assembly (lower topsail yard stay) (special fabrication)
 
This post completes mast fabrication and the fitting of mast ironwork. When construction resumes, mast sections will be assembled and outfitted with blocks and rigging lines per Rigging Setup Lists.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Next step is assembly of mast sections and fitting mast ironwork. Key points include:
 
>>> Cross trees & fore top fitted
>>> Upper masts dry fitted and caps installed
>>> Mast / cap ironwork, bands, and clevis bands fitted
>>> Special fittings fabricated (silver soldered) from brass strip, tube, and channel sections
>>> Mast hoops fabricated from .020" x 1/16" basswood wrapped around larger dowel, cut to length, and glued
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Small update. May 23 2014.
 
Transom work in progress.
It took me a long time to finally decide how to do this area.
The plans show the 4 per side wood curved supports to be equally separated, but there was no way you could fit the metallic gunport frames and have the same distance between each 4 at each side.
So I glued the supports after measuring that the metallic gunports were even. I then carved them down flush with the supports and lastly proceeded to plank.
 
This is not finished yet, just lightly sanded.
 
View of deck

 
First steps in transom. .

 
Rudder and rear gunport frames glued and shaped.You will see a bit of wood had to be added to make the height of the columns equal

 

 
Planking

 
Remember this is not finished yet

 
This is where I tested different finishes and treatments to help me decide what I'm going to do with the decks.

 
Thanks for watching

Hi everyone,
 
 A long time since the last update. I started planking the lower counter, and after a few strakes were glued in, I decided it wasn't good  enough and ripped them off. Then I took a trip to Taos to rethink....
 
After a new start, I got the lower counter planked. I found two useful tools shown here. The first is the curved shooting board I built a few years ago, which worked well for holding the planks for shaving the convex and concave edges. I used a Silversmith riffler (thanks, Ed, for the lead on this) for the concave edge, starting with a #0 and finishing with a #1. For final fitting, I slipped a piece of graphite paper between the two surfaces, and filed where the graphite showed a high point. I used my block plane for the convex surface, finishing up with a long #1 flat file to fair the curve.
 
The second tool I picked up a few years ago at a jewelry tool supply store. It is a jeweler's miter, which clamps a piece between two jaws at right angle or any other angle chosen. A file is then used to reduce the piece sticking out to flush with the front surface. It keeps a perfectly straight edge, square to the wide surface. I used this to clean up the ends of the planks, for a good tight fit with the next plank.
 
I did not highlight the joints of these planks, because I intend to paint the lower counter with the stage curtain and cherubs shown on the second model of the Bellona. I thought that emphasized joints here would interfere with the painting...
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
To get started again, I will post again the photos I took of the original Bellona model at Chatham last year, with permission from the National Maritime Museum. This model is contemporary with the original design of 1760. The Bellona was rebuilt in the 1780s with some significant changes in port locations, refitted rail on the poop, etc. I prefer the look of the original, and so these photos of the original model are my roadmap through the project.
 
It will take me a while to summarize my own build starting with my re-drafted drawings at 3/16" scale, but I am committed to the task!
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 
 

...

...

...

Thanks Max,  it demands a lot of work ...
Here are some more pics of the hull...

...and a few more pictures to " feel " the curves of the stern and bow ...

...

...

a bit more...

... and a bit more...

Hello everyone ... here's reconstruction, it is progressing slowly ... Here are a few photos of setting the first coat of strips :

This is going to be a great new project for the kit producer... model is 1221mm over all, 1:63... She was 52m long on the deck...

Hello all...
 
here is a little update. I have planked the bulkhead of the cabin and I made the doors and windows. This was the first time for me to work with wood on such difficult and small parts. I have now much more respect of all of you who do such work with extreme accuracy.
 
It was right to move the planking of the cabin and the work on the doors to this point. I am sure when you go along with the plan you will drive crazy with this work. After the Planks are in place and much more stuff is already fixed on the deck there is so less space to work proper. So I only can recommend - to such of you who are not experts - to read the plans exactly before starting to build. You will find ways to get along with the model in much more calm and satisfying ways. I stained the Planks of the cabin with oak and think it has a nice Color now. Now I can continue with the first planking.
 
Cheerio
 
Max
 

Thank you dgbot! I have a little question though... What do you mean below the water line the copper will be the color of a penny? Because it is not in contact with oxigen it won't oxidize? And that the copper above the water line will oxidize because it is in contact with oxigen? I thought that the whole copper hull would look somewhat oxidized?
 
I made some big progress today finishing up all the guns and I have my first broadside: 15 32pounders ready to fire I can't tell you how long I've waited to see this! It looks awesome!
 
Enjoy!
 
 

Now the hem with the boltrope inside was glued.
To lessen the bulk of the furled sails the rope was only included where visible: along the top edge and the two lower corners.
 
The holes for the robands were made with a large pin and finally the whole glue fixed with a hot iron.
According to the manufacturers information this should make the glued parts washable but in fact it’s only marginally water-resistant. Furling the sail would be easier when the fabric is damp but I have to be careful when applying water in order not to dissolve the hem.
 
 

Boltrope parts for the top edge and the lower corners were prepared
 
 

Top edge being glued...
 
 

...and finished
 
 

To form the head cringle the top boltrope is pushed back into the side hem through a hole
 
 

Preparing one side
 
 

Gluing it
 
 

Pushing holes for the robands (2 per cloth)
 
 

The sail maker is closely checking the finished sail

All...
 
A bit of miscellaneous progress.
 
I've added the channels and I think I've got them on very firmly. I took the liberty of reinforcing them with a small strip of .040 x .040 Evergreen underneath to increase the surface area when glueing to the hull.

 
I've also reinforced the pin rails by drilling thru the bulwark and inserting small steel pins. They were snipped to size, covered with some blobs of filler, and sanded smooth.

 
I did some spot primer in key locations to help determine areas in need of improvement then gave the two half hulls a complete coat. Still a bit of touch ups and tuning needed, but I'm getting closer to the painting phase.
 

 
Additionally, I decided to change course on the berth deck ventilation scuttles and gun deck scuppers. Originally I did not like the large openings for the scuppers and elected to cover them up and treat them as the ventilation scuttles. It gnawed at me enough that it wasn't a correct representation that I finally went ahead and popped off the previous work to expose the scupper holes and built new ventilation doors lower down in a more proper location. I even depicted one of the doors swung open to add some dimension:
 

 

 
A note to add regarding the ship's boats... I got pinged on another forum by a terrific modeler who is also building the Revell Connie using some of the Bluejacket parts. He was wondering if I was using the BJ resin whaleboats. I did purchase a couple of the whaleboats along with the resin pinnace. I was a little disappointed that they came with pre-molded floor boards - I would've preferred to add my own interior details:
 

 
Mine came in good condition - I know sometimes resin parts can be full of air pockets and blemishes, but these can be easily improved. My original pinnace came very warped and I wasn't able to correct the shape under warm water. The folks at Bluejacket cheerfully sent me a replacement.
 
Unfortunately, it looks as though I can't use these on my build. Apparently the whaleboats did not appear on Constitution until AFTER the Guerriere fight. Receipts and invoices indicate that Commodore Bainbridge first purchased whaleboats from local New England sources to replace some of the boats lost or damaged in the Guerriere battle. They've been associated with the ship ever since. The USS Constitution museum Log Lines blog had a nice article about this: http://usscm.blogspot.com/2012/09/whaleboats-for-constitution.html
 
I think that catches me up on my current progress.
 
Thanks for looking in...
Evan

Jase,
got a bit tied up job hunting and going on holiday. However as you can see I am progressing with the planking, which I must admit, seems to be taking for ever.

This was my second attempt at a wooden build and I have to say I don't hate it.  On to the third.