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flyer

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lenzburg, Switzerland
  • Interests
    Flying, travelling, reading, free tobacco abuse...

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  1. Congratulations B.E. Also the presentation with that group of blackened figures - showing quality but not drawing away attention from the main object - is another stroke of genius. Cheers Peter
  2. Well, judging by my own experience, you will not have to search for those lost kg - unfortunately they'll usually find you again. 😉 Although I feel a certain unwillingness to repeat the exercise at least it provided you with a very interesting project... Cheers Peter
  3. Hi Nils Great to hear from you. Again you showed your creativity already in choosing your new project. I'm looking forward to a very interesting build. BTW what is fast hiking - perhaps something similar to Nordic walking? Cheers Peter
  4. Hi Karl If you enter HMS Pickle by flyer into the search window on this page, you should find my build log. The paints are Caldercraft Admiralty Paints dull black and yellow ochre with about 20% matt white. The deck is not weathered. It's just the color of the wood I got with the kit. Cheers Peter
  5. Hi Karl No, I had to make them myself. You find more about how in the build log: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9589-hms-pickle-by-flyer-caldercraft-scale-164-my-interpretation/#entry283647 Feel free to ask, if you have any more questions. Cheers Peter
  6. Again compliments for a superb build. Regarding you two last kits: After building Granado a few years ago I'm now fiddling with Bellerophon/Vanguard. If you compare the prices 300 EUR versus 620 and the amount of material and plans included I think they are in the same price range. However either you were unlucky with the wood in your Granado kit or the quality has a bit deteriorated over the last few years. But the fact that Caldercraft practically has stopped to work on new kits and concentrates on selling what they have worries me a bit. This could well be a sign of making all the money you can while not investing in new projects and therefore of a downward trend. But I still hope for a future for Caldercraft, for prosperity with high quality and eventually perhaps even the launch of the Surprise kit.
  7. Hi B.E. A truly wonderful little gem. (Completed with rigging and even sails in the same outstanding quality - I wonder how that would look... Room to place it? Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!) Cheers Peter
  8. Well I do - I'm using my slide gauge all the time. On the other hand the eyesight fortunately develops such that it compensates more and more for inaccuracies.
  9. Thank you very much. It seems that the sheave block should run parallel to the planks and only the sheave itself is angled. That mistake I will have to live with. While trying to work out the correct size of the fore sheet and its sheave block I stumbled about a point in Lees. He writes (page 185) that the lower stays are half the diameter of the appropriate lower mast!? However, if I take half the mast diameter as the circumference of the stay I get a stay with a diameter of a bit more than 1,6mm. Do you think it's meant this way? The kit uses 2mm rope for the fore stay and according Lees this would mean a 0,8mm rope for the sheet and 0,9mm sheave thickness according your figures. So by sheer luck my try for a sheave block seems to have about the right dimensions with a 1mm slit for the sheave and length of 5mm for the sheave hole. By the way - don't you use metric in Canada as well? Cheers Peter
  10. Most kind, thank you. But what really could drive me nuts is how to belay the main sheet (through the second from aft of all these sheaves, I know, but how, oh how?) Anyway, I will tackle that problem after more important issues, such as installing the skippers flushing toilet! By the way, there is a part in the kit which resembles that 5th sheave block (minus the sheave) and which I believe is used for the main bowline.
  11. Hi Alan Thanks very much for the help. I'll have to do 3 more pairs then. Sometimes I wonder if it makes sense to concentrate on such details on a moderately built build witch many imperfections, some from the kit manufacturer and most from myself. But if you are aware of something you could at least try to improve I guess you have to do it or else you would always just look at that specific detail, sticking out like a sore thumb. Cheers Peter
  12. back to the upper deck... While working on the quarterdeck gun ports I realized that several details on the upper deck were missing. I forgot not only the cleats but also the sheave blocks for the sheets. The problem is that the respective information is not found in the manual, which is just covering most basic building steps, but hides scattered over all the plan sheets. Fortunately the missing cleats were all in the waist area and could be added rather easily. Then I tried to fabricate the quite prominent sheave blocks for the fore sheets. First version was a simple hole in the hull - naah, too simple. The second version was to cut a slit into the hull and insert a small disk cut from a 3mm dowel - still looked wrong. Finally I worked a slit into a piece of leftover boxwood, inserted a disk, stained it walnut, cut and filed a rectangular 3x5mm slit into the ships side and inserted the fake sheave block - acceptable. I think it's a pity that there is no step by step instruction booklet as in Caldercraft kits but on the other hand I'm supposed to be a moderately experienced kit builder by now and should have learned to check the depth of the water before plunging in head first... On the other hand again successfully correcting needless stupid mistakes gives a strange satisfaction, perhaps greater than what you feel doing it right from the beginning and not knowing how tricky the whole thing could be... So I will get on with the build and continue to make stupid mistakes. botched sheave block try tinkering a sheave block final solution
  13. Hi B.E. Great precision and great details! The more it must be annoying if something as important as a whole gun doesn't fit properly. Couldn't you close the chase ports with something like 'plug in lids'? I'm pretty sure that such things were used to keep the sea on the right side of the bulwark when no permanent port lids were installed. Then you could place those two guns behind their regular ports and reserve the use of the chase ports for times when desperate measures are required. Perhaps Chuck or somebody else has an idea how those plug-in-lids were looking. Cheers Peter
  14. Quarterdeck and forecastle This deck was fixed in place with the waist beams glued in after fixing the deck to avoid conflicts with the exact latitudinal placing. Another of the very few mistakes in the kit construction became now obvious. Beam 12a lies across an opening in the quarter deck where a stairway down to the upper deck must be placed. Beam 13a already had to be left off as it conflicts with the mizzen mast. Checking RMC's marvellous Vanguard it seems that he had the same problem and hat to cut out the centre part of the beam 12a - which I will do as well. The cabin bulkhead details were painted and fixed and the bulkhead put in place. Again nail heads served as door knobs. I don't know if door handles would be the proper prototype solution but the shiny knobs look tidy. The deck within the cabin got its planks, the side walls were planked as well and the gun ports framed. The inside of the cabin was again white- or better light grey-washed and 4 of the 12 pounder guns were prepared (I just filed the front sides of the carriages flat and painted them, similar to the hidden guns on the gun deck) and put provisionally in place. In between I started the detail work on the side galleries and put the windows in. To glaze them I used some left over 0,2 mm cellophane which is easier to handle than the stiffer one in the kit. After painting the frames - here I used acrylic paint - they were cut out and the sides cleaned. Then a piece of cellophane was cut out along the edges of the window frame. Now the 'glass' was glued onto the frame with a little white glue. After putting on a small amount of CA glue with a toothpick into the window openings of the side galleries, I installed the glazed windows flush with the gallery surface. No haze occurred on the windows by this use of CA and I like its holding powers when I accidentally touch them. Planking of the quarter deck was started by installing a waterway using 0,6 x 4mm Tanganyika wood strips. The 1mm inner bulkhead planks will reduce its with to 3mm. The ends of the planks cutting into the waterway are gradually reduced to about 30% of their width, the exact form then pencilled onto the waterway and the excess waterway material carefully cut out with a knife. With a reasonable steady hand it works fine. cabin with provisionally placed guns the captain inspects the finished cabin bulkhead - the debated beam 12a is clearly visible cutting out the 'glass' removing excess white glue with a toothpick finished glazed windows glued in with CA
  15. The balcony has been planked upper deck All the guns and furniture are now installed on the upper deck. After some browsing through MSW, web and several books about how to install the galley stove I finally decided to set it directly onto the deck because the most important thing would have been strengthening the beams below it, it seems unclear if those 'modern' stoves really were still installed on a brick base and it will hardly be visible after closing the forecastle and quarter deck anyhow. To check the openings for the bowsprit I had to provisionally fabricate itself. A small plane and the use of sandpaper and an electric drill as lathe reduced the 12mm dowel to 11mm and some work with nail files formed the seat for the cap and the bees. Installing the beams for the quarterdeck presented some problems because during careless handling of the build several stubs on the MDF bulkheads which should serve as seats for the beams were broken off. Fortunately fixing them with some splints and epoxy glue went well and the scars will be invisible below the quarter or forecastle deck. details of beakhead bulkhead added, provisional bowsprit in place deck details the stove sits directly on the planks and Bellerophon has got some teeth

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