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flyer

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lenzburg, Switzerland
  • Interests
    Flying, travelling, reading, free tobacco abuse...

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  1. Hi Tom Fix the finished yard horizontally, soak the footropes with diluted PVAC glue, hang clips in regular distances onto the footrope to create a natural hang and let dry. I could include a picture when building the next yard. Cheers Peter
  2. 32 foot barge Alternating between building one mast and one boat was a good idea. That way I generally look forward to building the next mast or boat and enjoy the change. And building that many boats actually is fun. It's fascinating how one can form all those different small hulls with relative simple means. One of the problems of those boats - the floor set too high - was overcome this time by reworking the bulkheads to set the floor lower and then thinning the floor itself. For floor planks I used again 0.5mm planks cut to a width of 2mm. On the third try the inner
  3. Hi Pete Welcome to MSW. Pickle is a wonderful subject. The prototype is not really well documented, so you have a certain liberty how to finish the model. Bruce's suggestion is a good one. Don't forget to start a build log. That way you will get a lot of help and motivation to carry you on. Have fun! Cheers Peter
  4. Hi Michael Thank you, but it's just the ingenuity of the kit. The yard end cap with its two arms is one etched part. You just bend the arms at 90°. The end ring (which should be broader, but is an usable approximation) is a second part together with its arm. There you bend the arm and stick its end into the hole in the middle of the end plate of the first part - after deepening that hole carefully into the Yard. The two iron bands are strips of cartridge paper glued on. Then paint all black and voilà. The inner ring is similarly constructed, also of two parts.
  5. Making the three yards was time consuming. The main yard is huge - it's as long as the lower main mast. According to Lees, the prototype yards are made of one piece of wood, if possible. If no suitable wood was available, e.g. the yard was just too large, then it was made of two parts, joined in the middle. That joint was strengthened with battens. Obviously for the original ship it would have been difficult to find such a single piece of wood to make a main yard. So I simulated a yard made of two parts with battens strengthening the centre. But I put on eight battens contra
  6. Hi Martin What trigonometry is for one, is a Language for another. Although I love the French, I never mastered their language. It consists only of irregularities! On the other hand trigonometry seems quite straightforward once you found somewhere a right angle. So whenever I have a problem, I start to look for right angles - but never found one in French. Good luck with your new shipyard! Cheers Peter
  7. Forming the octagonal centre section of a yard Nearly all yards have an octagonal centre section. Especially where no battens are used to strengthen the center section (according to Lees' Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War all yards which were made of just one single piece of wood) I wanted to make the largest possible octagon out of the given round dowel. To find how, I used some half forgotten trigonometry: Starting with filing the first plane which would form the first face of the octagon I had to find out how much to reduce the dowels diame
  8. Hi Michael Have just found your newest masterpiece being built. I love it. She's already looking great and definitely bearing your trademark. Those dummy carriages are again a tremendous improvement. Cheers Peter
  9. Hi Bob Fantastic work and excellent looking rope work on your Granado! Checking on my Granado I think that most of the ropes belayed to the breast rail do need some extra length to be properly usable e.g. braces when yards are braced up. These ends I did somehow coil around the rope itself which may not be correct but was what I could think of at the time. the lower part of that picture shows the breast rail Cheers Peter
  10. Hi NotsoObviousNewby You're doing really tremendous work on your build. Regarding your questions I would say: - Option B - The feature with a beam across the deck linking the catheads is something I find only on ships of the line where that beam also forms part of the forward bulwark of the fore deck. I'm not quite sure if its main use is strengthening the catheads or just stabilizing the forward end of the deck or both. That beam - painted red - is shown by the skipper on my Bellerophon. It is level with the catheads.
  11. Main Mast It was built similar to the mizzen with the same small changes to topmast- and topgallant mast-feet. I've got the impression that the width of one mast top and the foot of the next upper mast should be the same, in order to fit both cleanly between the trestletrees. So again I had to double up the mast feet. The upper crosstrees are rather delicate parts and I successfully broke a couple of ends off before strengthening them with some epoxy glue. Perhaps it would be better to provide them as photo etched metal parts. Also installing the
  12. Great progress despite all that plagues. I like your supports for the foot ropes. Ehm.. I hate to be the bearer of unfortunate news but there should be at least one more after the locusts - depending on if you are looking for Armageddon(1) or just want to leave Egypt(4). Let's hope it's not a plague of woodworms. Take care Peter
  13. Hi Martin Yes, I do hope to cover all sorts of mistakes with rigging and sails - and hope to make no new ones there... And you are of course right with the x. The c doesn't make any sense in any language including mathematics. Despite the boatyard being still under construction I hope you feel already a bit at home at your new location. It's probably easier to relocate far away but still in the US than moving the same distance over here - I would have to start living in Casablanca or Moscow to travel as many miles as you and this would be a completely diffe
  14. 18 foot cutter One special feature - and probable inaccuracy - which was disturbing me with the launch made even more problems with this small cutter: The false floor is too high above the keel. With the 1mm thick floorboards the launch's floor is quite high up. With the cutter that problem is severely aggravated. To gain some space below the thwarts they were placed as high up as possible. I also used 0,5 mm thick deck planks, cut to a width of 2mm to plank the floor which gained me another half mm (I was really desperately looking for some space). Even so the cutter looks someh
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