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    Lenzburg, Switzerland
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  1. First of all, I think the two messengers should be spliced end on and thus forming endless slings with a few turns around the windlass (to create enough friction), leading aft trough those blocks at the aft mortar bed and back onto itself. In operation the windlass moved the messengers continuously round and round while the anchor cable(s) were temporary bound to the messengers to be pulled by them. The aftmost attachment was always taken off, brought forward to fix the newly inboard brought part of the cable to the messenger again. The cable aft of the messenger was lead below to be stowed there. Taking photos of the finished model wasn't easy but I hope you find some useful information there. Cheers Peter
  2. The next problem was how to place the ornamental Pegasus between the bow cheeks - it was more than 1mm too high. After cutting away the laurels and bending the horses legs a bit it fit but looked very meagre. As an alternative I reworked the Vanguards respective element to fit, thinking with its serpent head it could represent the chimeras carcass with its snake tail. Then I took the snake Elephant's elephant was trampling and combined it, with the same idea in mind, with the slimmed Pegasus - this looked to be the best version. The carpenter in the meantime had repaired the grating, installed the latrines or seats of ease and fixed the two knight heads on both sides of the provisional bowsprit. Finally the skipper - always with the welfare of his crew in mind - wanted a rope rail installed above the head rail to prevent them falling overboard while being at ease. a reworked element from Vanguard the final version with a part of Elephant and Bellerophons Pegasus the skipper examines the finished bow and criticizes the inadequate protection rope rails added with some leftover stanchions
  3. Just checked my old plans sheet4: The mizzen yard is the crossjack yard, has a length of 190mm and is made from 4mm dowel. The centre part is 46mm in length and is 4mm round (should probably be octagonal). The two, 72mm long, outer parts taper from 4mm to 2mm. Cheers Peter
  4. While working on the port side I tried to give the upper rail a more elegant run up to the cathead. Unfortunately I succeeded and knew I had to redo the starboard upper rail. Before I put the port head rail in place I glued the head gratings in. I used walnut stain on them and added a 1x1 mm strip across the foremost part to cover the foremost bow rail frame entirely. Then the starboard rail came off again and - because Mr Murphy had time to pay a short visit - 3 bars of the grating with it. The new rail however looks much better now. The figurehead got another layer of paint and a short search in the web revealed that Greek soldiers had metal greaves as a shin protection. They were available in metal for the elite and anatomically formed and reached around to cover also the calves. In case of our hero they are not only metal but I offered also gilding which means I painted the entire lower legs golden. the port side upper rail looks more elegant with the head rail added, the bow is almost complete the gratings in place the new starboard rail looks definitely better the skipper ponders about how to repair that grating
  5. Hi Snowy A very clever idea and an equally successful sword transplantation - and the patient even is alive! He probably used a sword to cut off the head, while he used a spear (with a lump of lead on the tip) to kill the beast. I'll think about a spear in his hand while trying to find out what he actually holds. Stay cool! Peter
  6. Hi Martin Despite any shortcomings you may see, the new figure head is a great improvement. If you really are looking for a cooler region to live, could I perhaps propose this?: Hope this is cool enough. Ok, the lake isn't even fully frozen but it's still a few weeks to go until you reach the lowest temperatures. Every February there are horse races on the lake - no Pegasuses or seahorses allowed, so the lake must be frozen. (Over the holydays I was going to hike a bit in the snowy mountains but got a severe cold the first day and was reduced to stroll among the tourists at St Moritz.) A very happy new year to you (and everybody here)! Peter
  7. The hawse holes got additional bolsters to give more protection to the lower bow cheeks. Then I tried to attach the cathead. Some corrections were necessary to achieve the required angles forward and upward. Short pieces of leftover deck planks were glued onto the sides to help to create a yellow- black pattern. After painting the starboard cathead, it was glued on. However after installation it seemed much too long, protruding too far. I can only assume that the length is calculated to install it through the bulkhead. So I took it off again and shortened it by about 10 mm and redecorated and painted it. Now it looked more to scale and I could attach the support which had to be reworked first as well, to match the angles of the hull side and the cathead. Then pieces of the white metal profile were bent and put in place to finish the upper railing. Contrary to the instructions I continued the profile over the support and to the underside of the cathead. Several sources show a continuous decoration in this manner. The head rail was shortened a bit to fit behind the upper check rail, painted and glued on. The starboard side was now finished but awaits some rework to smoothen the various bumps. I painted the figurehead, puzzling over the instructions. Finally I decided to provide the hero with a golden helm instead of the bronze as instructed - he deserves it. Also the shin protection is golden, however I'm still unsure about their form and what parts to paint golden. The cast seems to indicate that also the calves were covered and that's strange. The breast was painted brown as instructed. Perhaps he had a light leather armour. The goat's head of the chimera is red, as seen on some illustrations. The still removable hero completes the impression of the starboard bow. a rather strong seaman holds the first variant of the unpainted cathead this looks disproportionate cathead 2.0 with support upper railing finished head rail added the successful hero holds the chimera's goat head - I still don't know, why he didn't take the lion head and what kind of strange weapon he holds in his right hand...
  8. Admiralty, water based yellow ochre with 15% white. I use the same paint trying to cover my built in flaws - not always successfully, alas. 😳 😊
  9. Hi Martin Nice to hear from you and thanks for the compliments. Those rails are a white metal profiles, very soft, like tin-solder. And the same is used on the lower transom and side galleries. Cheers Peter
  10. Bow Others mentioned this to be the hardest part of the whole hull (in a way it has to be - it must withstand the whole force of the sea). Building it, even with that wonderful kit's parts, is certainly no easy thing. It is a 3-dimensional puzzle and depending on how accurate you built so far, all the parts need more or less adjustment to each other and the hull. I followed mainly the instruction manual but changed some details and sometimes the order of putting on part by part if I wanted to wait with delicate details. I started with the bow rail frames but setting the outermost a bit deeper to match the curvature of the upper head rails. After a dry run with the gratings I decided to put them aside, only using them as guidance. A groove was scratched lengthwise into the upper check rails to give a more realistic appearance. After painting them they were glued just below the frames. Now the cast railings were manipulated into the required forms, matching the plans, and glued into their slots. The walnut strips which cover the lower sides of the bow rail frames also got a groove, carved with the Dremel, and filled with blue paint. I had to scratch away a bit of the cast rails where they protruded out of the frames. The upper bow cheeks were added after carving grooves into the front edges. The hawse hole patterns were painted yellow instead of black as per kit instructions, adjusted and put in place. Then the lower bow cheeks - also grooved - were glued on. The cheeks are running in parallel with the wales and not the yellow / black colour dividing lines. In between those works I had to lower the seat for the figurehead on the bow in order to fit the hero's helmet below the bowsprit. After about half of the parts are in place the bow starts to look right. I wish I could offer better carved grooves but the general idea to overwork those flat surfaces seems right. dry run with gratings 'in the raw' bow rail frames and upper check rail cast railings added upper bow cheeks and hawse hole patterns in place lower bow cheeks added a trial run with the partly painted Bellerophon
  11. You could find out the actual scale of your full size plan by comparing it (e.g. overall length) with your actual build in 1/72. kit x 72 = y plan 1 should be your plan scale. y Now you can take any measurement out of your plan, multiply it by y and divide it trough 72 and find the actual value for your kit. Enjoy! Peter
  12. Right after posting the last pictures I started to clean up the taffrail a bit, took out the most offending support - and before I knew know - the whole taffrail was taken apart. Time for version 2.0: New, shorter supports with 3,5 instead of 5mm height were cut and adjusted to the curvature of the transom edge. Then I glued them with epoxy adhesive because there is quite some stress on them while fixing the rail. The rail itself was sanded thinner, smaller and smoother. Then I carefully drilled small holes through rail and supports into the taffrail for the nails. Even with pre-drilling the nails might split the supports. Now the rail was epoxy glued and nailed onto the supports, all cleaned and painted and voilà - rail mk2.0 looks much more shipshape than the first try. new rail the skipper is quite happy with the new rail, however that deck is a disgrace to the ship and must be cleaned the skipper definitely likes the new look
  13. Hi Christian No, it wasn't in the box, it was a leftover piece from my Pickle transom. There I bought it from Cornwall Model Boats. However, browsing through their page, I found that I must have told a lie because they don't have boxwood strips. Most probably it is beech which bends easily as well. Hi Martin It is probably beech, 1x5mm, and I soaked it for 1hour in warm water. The picture shows only the first bending operation. I soaked it then a second time and clamped it again - this time with proper clamps - onto the transom. That was the step where I did some damage to the decoration in the lower counter. But it could be repaired and I think it was worth it. Of course it would be much easier to prepare the rail before attaching the transom but this would need some thinking in advance... Hi Mark The plans may be a bit misleading because the side rail is flush only with the highest point of the transom but not with its edges. That seems to be correct and in accordance with my plans and also the Bellona model. However this creates that gap which irritated me. I would really recommend my solution - but better pre-bend the taffrail before attaching the transom. Perhaps a well soaked lime strip would work but I think it would be better to get some beech. As I increased the convexity on my transom it actually is a 3dimensional bend which would need some arranging of the transom in its final form while using it as a mould. Thanks to all for the positive feedback and the likes - and by the way the rail is off again and I'm presently reworking it into version 2.0 with shorter supports (3,5 instead of 5 mm) which hopefully should stay vertical this time. Cheers Peter
  14. That illogical gap in the rail over the transom looks as strange as a missing front tooth. The well known Bellona model and even the Mamoli model do have a taffrail in this position. On various other models, contemporary and new, you find one as well. Therefore I tried to include such a taffrail. First I soaked a 5x1 mm strip of boxwood in warm water and clamped it onto the upper edge of the transom (not without damaging a few details in the process) and let it dry. Boxwood takes such a form quite well and holds it. Then I put some supports in place and glued and nailed the taffrail onto them. The rail ends are deliberately set onto the same height as the side bulwark tops, not the side rails. After some reworking, sanding and painting and doing the necessary repairs I had a rough rail. Basically the whole idea worked , but judging by the pictures (which again seem more impartial than the naked eye) the supports aren't vertical, the rail seems a bit too fat, needs some smoothening and maybe still sits to high above the transom. I'll think about reworking it. In the meantime the rest of the carronades were rigged and the foredeck completed with belfry and rail. forming the boxwood rough rail... ...placed on the supports reworked and painted taffrail in place and quarter deck armed fore deck finished
  15. Hi Mark Nice progress. Had the same problem with the different thickness of gun port patterns and planks. However it disappeared rather quickly while sanding and filling (and sanding and filling and sanding) after the first planking. Initially I got a rather rough and uneven shape of the hull and while working on it to get smooth lines by visual judgement the difference just disappeared. In any case you will not have to sand the whole lower hull - only the transition area from planks to pattern. Cheers Peter

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