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    Lenzburg, Switzerland
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  1. Nobody offers 0,1mm black thread, don't know why. However if you stick to the principle that standing rigging was tarred and running not, then the lanyards probably should be natural. Today's historical ships show them usually black but I'm not altogether sure about that. Mine nevertheless are died black. Another point - which might come a bit late: Having the deadeyes all exactly on the same level looks nice and tidy but for an efficiently working support of the mast it's more important that all the shrouds have the right and an equal tension. So I put this in first priority and if after retying about two times a height different remains but the tension on all the shrouds is about right I leave it like that, hoping that on en efficiently run prototype it was done the same way. I guess if there was time in harbour the skipper would have the deadeyes levelled out again but while sailing there would be a continuous adjusting of the tension but no time for adjusting the deadeyes as well. The tension also helps when tying the ratlines and when you have to attach blocks for running rigging to the shrouds. Keep up the fantastic work! Peter
  2. Hi Mort, Martin and Nils Thanks to the compliments and encouragement. Martin, this seems to be contradictory but by reducing superfluous details I hope in fact to get greater historical accuracy. And many thanks for all the 👍's. Peter
  3. There are 6 carronades mounted on the poop deck. Again the kits pedestals and carriages were highly detailed cast but of a strange design and unusable. Replacing them with Caldercraft parts would have been rather expensive and (according to RMC's log) difficult also because of the scale difference 1/64 versus 1/72. Therefore I tried to rework the kits parts similar to the gun carriages. First I glued the pedestal onto the chock. Then I filed flat what was possible and filled unnecessary details with superglue. The forward ringbolts on the carriage came off as well as the forward guide pin below the carriage. Now it is possible to put the carriage into a realistic run out position. All the remaining cast ringbolts were drilled out and two rings put into the ringbolts beside the barrel mount. They will guide the breech rope. The barrel had a ring for the breech rope glued onto the pommel. There was not enough space in front of the elevation thread (the pommel is too short) and I had to glue it of centre, overlapping the thread. Everything was painted and I think it looks acceptable. 3 stages of carronade reworking (that seaman only showed up after the work was done!)
  4. The quarterdeck rail was also completed. The rounded bit on the aftermost part is a piece of water soaked, bent, dried and adapted 5x1mm boxwood strip. There is also a length of 1x1mm strip on the outer hull in continuation of the upper, after end of the rounded rail. It's not mentioned anywhere in the instructions but visible on the overall plan. quarterdeck rail in place additional decorative strip on outer hull all painted
  5. The decision about how to paint the ship mainly lies with the skipper, especially if you pay the paint out of your own pocket. Some Admiralty instructions existed and certain details seem quite clear, such as the Nelson chequer in its time, but others aren't - even if contemporary paintings or models exist. The artist may have used some artistic freedom. So may you and as skipper of your Pickle you may paint as seems logical or as you like. Of course you still have to respect eventual Admiralty wishes or instructions. I whitewashed the inside of the companionway too to reflect some more light into the dark interiors and because sources mention whitewashing. Additionally the skipper will keep his crew clean and proper for their health and that also reduces dirtying of the paintwork. And I liked it better that way. Cheers Peter
  6. Hi Mark That's a very interesting build. I notice, that the kit is produced under Amati's licence with some changes. I'll be most interested to hear how the new guns look, the Amati gun carriages being a major weak point in their kit. I really like the Amati copper plates and hope you'll get an equally satisfying result with that tape. Question: Are the Bellerophon and Elephant variants also included? Enjoy your build! Peter
  7. The forecastle is now finished with the guns installed and that treacherous ladder way has provisionally got a protective rope rail. The skipper visited the build quite often but didn't actually do much work. As a reinforcement of the actual workforce (me) I hired two additional crew. The might look tiny in scale 1/72 but they are nimble and able to go into the most constricted places - especially if you look for them to burden them with actual work. finished forecastle that ladder way needs the rope rail poop deck The deck was marked for planking and glued in place. Waterways from 5 x 0,5mm strips are installed. They will be trimmed to maximal 3mm with after putting the inner bulwark planking in place and while fitting the planks into it. The lowest inner bulwark planks were painted before attaching them, the others added, everything painted red and roughly trimmed to the right height. poop deck with roughly trimmed bulwarks waterways in place, planking will start now
  8. Hi Mugje This is an excellent first build. I like the precision of your work, especially the painting. Just don't forget to paint the rudder hinges copper. Because of the electro-chemical reaction between copper and iron they were made in copper or bronze in those parts where the hull was coppered. Cheers Peter
  9. Hi Michael Thank you. I wish I had the patience to work all the details the way you do - but I'd like to finish Bellerophon before I turn ninety which means within the next 25 years. Your cross section is coming along nicely. I can't wait to see your next project: the entire Santisima Trinidad.😉 Hi Jason Thanks. The (mostly) great quality of the kit has much to do with the way the stern looks now. Hi Martin Oh yes, we are all mortals, aren't we. Also his uniform suffered a bit and looked threadbare. I asked able seaman Preserved Killick to mend it. Would you believe, he just took brush and paint for the task, the rogue? And thank you. I must confess I'm rather fond of the build myself, despite the flaws I built in. Cheers Peter
  10. The fore castle deck is now fully planked and galley chimney, hatches and ladder ways are in place. The shot garlands were quickly done - experience starts to make tasks easier. A strange detail is, that there is no rail to protect landlubbers (and others) against falling down the forward ladder way. But the skipper agrees with me, that a rail probably should be added. The fore castle rails were glued on and the aft ends of the upper rails made with a pre-bent piece of boxwood strip. The gun carriages are reworked and I'm afraid I have to start gun rigging again. The balcony is finished and the skipper can now take some fresh air in relative privacy during his visits to the build. The skipper fell down this ladder way during his inspection tour. Only his dignity was hurt because he had to be extracted with the help of tweezers. Now he is thinking about adding a rail with some leftover stanchions and rope. aft end of upper forecastle rail the skipper takes some air on his finished balcony (and tries to regain his dignity)
  11. Well Martin, it seems you definitely took another plunge - this time past the boundary separating 'normal' modellers from those practising the dark arts of scratch building. Wonderful work. Your Granado is going to be a unique piece of art. 👍 Cheers Peter
  12. What a superb presentation of a beautiful build! I especially like the base plate with the copy of the NMM plan worked into it.
  13. To complete the quarterdeck I installed rudder stand and binnacle. The rudder stand has a tiller rope and the binnacle got a chimney roughly made from wood and painted copper. The binnacle was tied to the deck. Planking of the fore castle was started. Waterways, made with 4mm strips, were installed first. I put the joints below the future gun positions. They will not be visible and are not detailed. The poop deck is prepared to be glued on. mast position marked with a dowel quarterdeck nearly finished not many details of the latest work will remain visible after installing the poop deck - however I must change the lower ends of the binnacle straps and fix them to eyebolts waterways installed and planking in progress
  14. ...or you could make your own, more realistic, stern fascia. Hey mugje, great work so far. I think that schooners and other small craft in Pickles time usually had a more elliptic stern, similar to what I tried with my Pickle. Have fun! Peter
  15. Hi Nils You are really building an exquisite model. One would like to rent her for a holyday cruse but on second thought it might be a bit cramped - it probably is even on the prototype. BTW some crew bunks on long haul aircraft aren't much more spacious but at least have some standing room. Cheers Peter

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