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    Lenzburg, Switzerland
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    Flying, travelling, reading, free tobacco abuse...

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  1. Hi Martin Yes, I do hope to cover all sorts of mistakes with rigging and sails - and hope to make no new ones there... And you are of course right with the x. The c doesn't make any sense in any language including mathematics. Despite the boatyard being still under construction I hope you feel already a bit at home at your new location. It's probably easier to relocate far away but still in the US than moving the same distance over here - I would have to start living in Casablanca or Moscow to travel as many miles as you and this would be a completely different world. Cheers Peter
  2. 18 foot cutter One special feature - and probable inaccuracy - which was disturbing me with the launch made even more problems with this small cutter: The false floor is too high above the keel. With the 1mm thick floorboards the launch's floor is quite high up. With the cutter that problem is severely aggravated. To gain some space below the thwarts they were placed as high up as possible. I also used 0,5 mm thick deck planks, cut to a width of 2mm to plank the floor which gained me another half mm (I was really desperately looking for some space). Even so the cutter looks somehow flattened. By filling much of it with equipment I hope to mask the missing depth. For the wales and the cappings of the sides I took only 1x1mm strips instead of 2x1. That way the proportions seemed more harmonious for such a small boat. The cutter was placed in the launch and both boats equipped with the kit's oars, boathooks and grapnels. Additionally both got a rudder with a tiller and also the removed thwarts and a water barrel were placed within the launch. While working on the boat also finished the poop and quarterdeck barricades with hammock nettings and the sand buckets. the small cutter with its rudder the skipper checks the completeness of the equipment the launch with equipment poop deck barricade quarter deck barricade (I see that the top of the hammock nettings need some reworking.) the launch on the beams an overview of the work done in this chapter
  3. Surprisingly (but I should've known by now) the making of the 3 yards, boom and gaff was more time demanding than the mast itself. I did deviate from the kit instructions a few times, mostly when making the crossjack. First of all making the crossjack with a 8mm dowel was grossly out of proportion. I tock a 6mm one. Making the centre part 16 squared turned out to be rather difficult. Finally I made 16 battens with a cross section of 0,5x1,1mm from leftover deck planks and glued them on. Battens were usually held with iron rings. Those were simulated with stripes of cartridge paper. After all that work the centre section looked more round than hexadecagonal. (I'm not sure if that word really exists in English - I'll have to ask Sheldon Cooper or another authority on complicated words.) The spritsail yard, which is even smaller and also should be 16 squared in the centre, will probably have to be content with a round centre. Another change I made, was to replace all stirrups for the footropes by 0,5mm black thread. A eye splice was simulated at the end by threading the rope back through itself twice and hardening that small sling with glue to keep it stable. The upper end was glued onto the yard with three round turns. This looks less orderly than the usual etched metal stirrups on models but I like it and think it's a bit closer to the prototype. The rest of the work was done according to plans and instructions except that I left off those strange 4 battens on the topsail yard. If ever it should have 8 and only when the yard is made from 2 pieces. Mine is one straight piece of wood with the usual octagonal centre part. the 3 yards boom and gaff crossjack centre part of crossjack- supposed to be 16-sided stirrup topsail yard topgallant yard boom gaff
  4. Hi Martin When checking on CT, I noticed that you will not get completely rid of the cows but you will have some decent vineyards nearby. Being in a nice rural landscape but only 2 hours from NY and BOS looks just great. I wish you save travel and a very happy landing at your new home. Peter
  5. I do agree with RussR. A sailing ship must have sails. My 3rd model was the first with (furled) sails. As I didn't know better I used pre-sawn sails and learned a lot. The main points are already mentioned in other posts here: Never use them and when sails are furled reduce the height by 1/3. The next try -Granado- was with furled sails made on order by a professional seamstress. I just sawed the boltropes on. As pointed out here the seams are much to coarse and also the boltropes still seemed too prominent. Then I made the sails myself, just pencilled the seams onto the fabric and glued the boltropes into the seams. Furled they looked good enough for me to try full sails on the next two models - both schooners. Now I'm coming to the point: There is a further possibility - you have partly set sails. For example leave the topgallant sails furled, set topsails as in medium wind and perhaps have the mainsail furled as well. Just choose a scenario, such as e.g. ready for battle in moderate wind, and set the sails accordingly. A benefit of full or partly set sails is the fact that you can brace the yards as sharp as you like and the rigging allows which gives a more dynamic look and reduces the space needed for the finished model (by about 15% for yards braced 30°). I'm building a 74 now and will add sails, do however not know yet how exactly. They will most probably be partly set because I want to brace the yards.
  6. Mizzen mast In order to make the following work more varied I decided to alternate between building a boat and a mast. As the mizzen mast is the smallest I started with that. Still having no lathe I had to file the dowels first square, then octagonal. Then they were put in a drilling machine and worked round with increasingly fine sanding paper. So far I made all my lasts and yards that way and it seems to work. The mizzen presented some minor difficulties. The lower mast was quite straightforward to build, only a saddle for the boom was added. Several books, e.g. 'Victory' in the AOTS series show such a device but not my main reference of the Bellona. But she still shows the lateen mizzen yard. The foots of the topmast and topgallant mast were doubled up to a rectangular form, not square. This was necessary to fit them in the right distance to the lower mast heads into the tops. The topmast cap was also too small to fit and had to be doubled up by 1mm in length and width and the holes were slightly adjusted to get the right distance. I don't quite understand why the caps are presented lengthwise cut in two and quite imprecisely so. A cap in the right size in one piece as in other kits would be easier to work with and more precise. The fact that the head of each mast and its hole in the cap should be square and not round was not corrected - black paint will hide that flaw. The mizzen top got also some vertical battens glued on, on top of the iron rings which strengthen the mast head. A rather minor but important change was made to the top of the topgallant mast. The plan shows a 1mm hole front to aft just below the top for the tie of the topgallant yard. It is rather unwise to weaken the mast in its thinnest position that way. I remember at least one model where I broke a topgallant mast in exactly this position twice when I got caught during rigging work. According to Lees the tie was led anyhow through sheaves in the masthead so I drilled that hole about 1 third from the top through the head. As always I finished the mast off the ship and glued all parts together. That way I have a mast with all parts truly in line. The shrouds may be attached without problems to the finished mast. lower mast, topmast, topgallant mast and top - fids already inserted saddle on lower mast and reworked topmast cap topmast cap being reworked - the left hole and the head of the lower mast should actually be square mizzen top. iron rings, bolsters and battens added topgallant top with hole for the tie finished mast top with blocks attached the first mast stands provisionally - this model really takes up a lot of space
  7. Hi Martin A search in the web revealed that that belt was a gift and it was dyed purple. I guess that was an expensive colour then. However nothing about its construction - some fabric perhaps. Anyhow, I'll think about adding a purple belt to my Bellerophon. So, you are close to moving. Might I ask where to? Someplace which is cooler, with more wine and less tornadoes and cows perhaps? Cheers Peter
  8. Hi Bob It definitely looks much better. Don't worry, be happy. Perhaps even when building - or repairing - the prototype they didn't always have the right strength of rope available either. And of course they would take the next stronger one. Anyway, I keep telling myself, that all the snags and imperfections on my models make them to look more realistic, because working conditions back in the 18th and 19th century weren't perfect either. Cheers Peter
  9. Hi Snowy Yes, the same stripes for 1st and 2nd planking and yes again I tried to stagger it by starting the 2nd planking a bit too high and then sanding off the top 1mm of the 2nd planking. (With some foresight I would however have done this to the 1st planking because it would be less obvious.) Anyhow I still had a few areas where the seams of both layers met - and split during sanding. Reinforcement with liquid CA glue helped. Btw I used CA glue for the whole 2nd planking and epoxy glue to fix the rails. Hi Sailor1234567890 Well I think you could start with the boats. Me, I was impatient to see the real dimensions of the ship and started with the big one. I don't know if you could use the boats as training pieces, if that is on your mind, because they are fiddly work and you have less room for corrections with those thin planks. I had to check where that place Shubenacadie is. I hope you forgive me that I had never heard of it. Well, that looks like a nice location, quite close to Halifax and therefore much closer to the sea and the navy than my place. Cheers all Peter
  10. Hi Martin A bit belated I rise an answering glass towards the west - one of my last Corona beers. It's too hot for red wine. About Bellerophon's belt: Was it perhaps mentioned in some writing or seen on a statue? I only remember Orion's belt and would know how this one looks... Take care Peter
  11. 34 foot launch Next I wanted to try the first boat. According to the manual I started with the big launch. Up to now I used resin shells with additional built in details to make boats. This was the first plank on frame built. It went quite well albeit much slower than the 3 weeks the manual mentions for all 4 boats. Also not everything went as intended. When putting in the ribs, the base of the floor boards in the aft part proved to be mounted askew. I hope to disguise this mistake with the benches and perhaps some of the boats equipment stowed inside. The inside was painted yellow with floorboards and benches only varnished. Most of the outside is painted white with black wales and a yellow rail. After about two weeks of occasional work the launch is finished. No thwarts are put into the launch because the 18 foot cutter will later be placed inside. She is quite large compared to other boats I made so far. But I can see the usefulness of such a craft for a variety of tasks. I don't remember seeing much about building these boats in other logs. Therefore I put some additional pictures into this one. Skeleton with first plank. First planking in progress... ...and finished. Some filler was necessary to get smooth lines. The transom was planked horizontally - contrary to the manuals vertical planks. 2nd planking under way ... and finished. Now the bulkheads were removed. floor boards in place The rail was preformed and added in one piece and then the rowlocks filed into it. 2 stripes of cartridge paper serve as gudgeons for the rudder. The finished and painted launch is checked by the crew. Provisionally put in place on the beams of a 74 the launch looks huge.
  12. Hi Bob Now I see that the 3mm blocks in fact also look a bit thin - especially compared to your wonderfully detailed bowsprit shrouds. I'm afraid that from now on you will always look at that tackle in a sceptical light and if you ever want to be happy again you'll have to install something like a tackle with 5mm blocks and 0.25mm thread. Sorry for that trouble. Cheers Peter
  13. Hi Bob Your rope works look excellent - the Syren thread is a tremendous improvement. However as an engineer something chafes me: That stay on the starboard side of the bowsprit (main top stay?) has to take a certain load. The whole load has to be transmitted via the tackle to the belaying points. Each of the 3 legs of the tackle takes 1/3 of the load which means the thread of the tackle should in this case be at least 1/3 of the strength of the stay. Yours seems to be quite thinner and will either break when the stay takes the full load or the stay is oversized. It just doesn't look balanced. May I suggest to use the next stronger thread as tackle? Take care Peter
  14. Hi Helli Thank you for sharing that amazing build with us. That's a very clever trick for attaching the breaching rope rings to the guns. And your work looks great, clean and precise. Cheers Peter
  15. Hi B.E. Another great build where you improved an already excellent kit by adding your personal touch. Congratulations on a masterpiece. The unavoidable question: And now? Cheers Peter

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