MarisStella.hr

I have been preparing all the parts for rear stays, sanding and filing blocks and clear coating them, painting straps, eye bolts etc.
 
I have been looking at bowsprit for some time knowing it is rising too much..( sill not fitted..) Kit says to have it about 5 degrees which looks right with historical sketches..
 
I can either make groove deeper or rebuild bowsprit rail to be higher... It must be a kit error.. although it doesn't say how deep to cut into bulwark...
 
Also would it have been lashed in or a pin to hold it through uprights of railing?
 
Regards Ollie
 
 

...

Leanne,, I"m glad i can return something, for all the help i have had is what has made this build what it is.. The whole MSW forum is a godsend..
 
I look forward to seeing your build log surface
 
John thanks for the compliments, i have a tendency towards wanting perfection, which can be a downfall at times, i came to the conclusion that ratlines were probably not perfect anyway..
 
Anyway the second time they have come up neater, although i did redo a few to get it right, too much sag on some.. also had a flame up and two rungs burnt out that was exciting/scary..  one has gotta be quick with the flame if burning fuzz..
 
When i stand back and look at it all, the ratlines and shrouds are really making it look close to done..      Onto back stays next..  steady as she goes, as i want to soak up the last parts of this marvelous journey..   Ollie
 
 

"A-trennelling we will go ... a-trennelling we will go. 
Trennelling ... trennelling ... trennelling ... trennelling ...
Life is but a dream !!"
 
CaptainSteve's already tenuous grasp upon sanity hath been sorely tested these past two weeks. For he hath been occupying every erstwhile free moment in cutting many a toothpick into even smaller pieces ...
 

 
Thence he didst taketh up his drill and madeth verily great numbers of tiny, tiny holes in which to place these pieces ...
 

 
And, thencewise, whereupon that was doneth, he didst commenceth the whole process over again ... and again ... and again. All the while singing the refrain at the top untoest his self.
 


 
But, just when it didst seemeth darkest, just when it wouldst appeareth that our hero's grasp on reality musteth surely fail, he was able to discovereth his Inner Porcupine !!
 

 
Whereupon, finally seeing light at the end of the trennel tunnel, he didst taketh up the Fearsome Clippers of Toe-Nail Destruction to trim that Porcupine ...
 




 
 
"They be subtle," our Hero didst sayeth. "But the detail be there ... and it be good, methinks !!"
 
At this stage, it twouldst be pertinent to point out that nobody has informed CaptainSteve just yet that the outer hull couldst beeth in need of a good trennelling, as well.
For the sake of our Hero's sanity, let's just keep that matter betwixt our own selves, for the time being !!!

Richard,
I'm enjoying your log, but a question: did the pedestals come with the kit, or did you purchase them separately? A couple of years ago my dentist gave me the same kit and asked me to build it, as it was too complicated for him. I did it, but there were no pedestals with my kit. So it just sits there:
 

 
Tom
 
 

I started this build almost 30 years ago. After completing the hull and deck fittings it was packed away (in newspaper dated 1986). I moved from to the US from the UK in 91 and brought it with me.
 
Needing something to do to relax, I decided to restart the build and try my hand at masts and rigging. We'll see how relaxing tying small knots turns out to be!
 
Progress so far:
 
Basic inventory - except for rigging line, everything seems to be there.
Damage - one pump handle is broken.
Tools - purchased a few obvious hand tools; tweezers, rigging toolset, new x-acto blades, built a small (12"x24") workbench.
Reading - as well as this site, I have copies of Ship Modeling Simplified (Frank Mastini) and Model Sailing Ships - Design and Construction (Robert F. Brien).
 
Immediate to-do's:
 
Read the books and plans - I need to get a better handle on terminology and techniques.
Decide on any changes to existing hull work.
Calculate size and quantities of rigging line - I'm thinking of using line from Syren.
Start work on yards and booms.
 
Some pictures:
 
The original box

 
Minor damage after a 3800 mile journey

 
Lots still to do



 

Hello All, 
 
I have finished the first layer of the hull, filled and sanded, came out not bad tbh, Might add a little bit of filler around the Bow.
all though i was adding 2 per side per day,, the last few was 3  due to the small size, a
 
any ways this task was done..

Although the great build is on track and time, we have ordered new hands to help from far, they should arrive in a a week or so :-
 
 
Plank layer one is a working progress,, we are managing two planks per side, per day,.  

Hello to all,
 
Just a small update, I started to paint the areas for the gun ports,, then i ran out of paint..      so I sprayed the area in stead,,
I have installed one side (ATM) of the Gun port patterns, I need a few 3mm brass pins to hold some in place as a few sprung out and needed to be re glued,
 
Pins should arrive tomorrow, so ill get the other side done over the weekend
 
Could anyone clarify the supports in the Picture (13), Do these get broken out? hope so, so have i got something wrong?

Ok buddy here is a diagram(actually a photo of a pretty rough sketch by me of how I set them out.The two measurements along the plank want to be the same and the nib and recess both want to be 1/3 of the plank width(this is not following the rulebook,but rather something achievable and looks convincing.Join the points up as on the sketch.This gives the outline of one half.The longitudinal measurements you can play around with until you are happy with the angle,as long as they are the same that is the important thing.To give you an idea I have just done some on 6mm wide pear and they worked out at 2 x 10mm.The clever bit is you clamp the marked out end with the piece you are joining it to ideally in a vice.Ensure the edges of the planks are inline and cut both ends at once.I do the cuts across with a razor saw down to the line and then shave away the material with a scalpel.Carefully file down to the line ensuring the faces are level.Providing the two 1/3 width sections are cut and marked accurately,the two ends should join together in a perfectly straight line.A couple of goes on some scrap will help but once you get in the swing it is relatively straight forward
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Oh and no i didn't miss a run, they just are not needed..

Ok, rats are done on starboard side.. reasonably happy with it, oh ok... I cant complain for a first go
 
It's not as easy as one would like and i'm sure it will go smoother on second run..  
 
I was brave enough to throw in a macro..  Black card helps find the fuzzy bits...
best if you dont use waterbased marker to mark out card, it runs when glueng.. 
 
I have a grip on the cow and clove hitch now, handy to know..   I used the principle of doing every forth run and then coming back to fill in..  Ollie
 
 

I got a lot done today, started this log, sorted out creating a signature, linking my build log and gallery, and trying to post a picture to my profile.  There is a lot of great guides on how to do all that but it took me some time as I am only moderatly proficient when it comes to computers.  Next I started on making the plank above and forward of this stealer plank and botched it up as well  so I tossed it in the trash and started over.  This time it went better but still a gap crept in. Some times this hobby can be so frustrating and I am getting the feeling this may be one of those days. So not much progress but its progress.  Its a little agrivating to me as I have been looking forward all week to getting home and doing some planking but I think I am going to take a break for a bit and cut the grass.  Sorry for the rant, just needed to vent. 
 
Fair winds my friends!

Today was an excercise in frustration!  I planed to start working on the lower hull on the port side.  I got distracted by my two puppies and glued the stealer I was fashioning on before the final shaping  So after a great deal of trouble removing it I started over.  This left some gaps to fill with putty later.

This will be my third model ship and second plank on bulkhead ship. In addition to this web site I will be building the Pride of Baltimore II (POB II) with the assistance of Robert Hunts Sophomore course practicum, and of course all of you here at MSW. I thank you all in advance for your help and input along the way.

I must confess I am hesitant to start this log as there are already three magnificent build logs under way for this ship. I fear that I may have little to offer as I am very much a beginner and I do not posses any great skill, but I do have a desire to strive for perfection and like all of you a love and fascination with these beautiful tall ships that are reminders of our past. So with some trepidation and having being inspired by the craftsmanship of others here I have decided to take the plunge.

I chose the POB II for many reasons not the least of which is she is a beautiful ship, but also as I think she offers a great deal as a way to learn and improve as a model shipwright. She presents some new challenges compared to the AVS but in a way that is a natural progression for new builders.

The keel was first laid December 08, 2012 shortly after completing my Armed Virginia Sloop. Work progressed to the point where I had begun the process of planking the hull and had completed the first 6 rows below the wales. Some of the photos from early construction are posted below. Then life took me away and the poor ship has sat idle until recently. Like many others this hobby has a way of always pulling me back and the pride as waited patiently for my return.

Getting back in the shipyard.  Starting to plank the side.  Needed to bend the planks so after soaking in a glass of water for a 20 or so minutes I gently bent the planks and then clamped them on this container 2 at a time.
 

 
Laying the first plank and gluing/clamping.
 

 
 
So it is much more noticeable now that I have the first plank layer, that the wale and the planks are not quite horizontal to the waterline.  They kinda point up right at the bow. 
 

 
 
I am going to try to lessen this with a bit of plank narrowing by sanding on each of the next 4 planks.

Before placing the main deck, it calls for slicing off the top section of bulkhead "B" to accomodate the forecastle later on. When to cut this is not clear, but it does help support the main deck bulwark planks. I decided to add the 4 planks that will make up the main deck bulwarks first making sure not to glue the planks to this bulkhead, and then cut it off. The plans call for an 18.0mm height at the lowest point of the bulwarks, but it should be more like 20.0mm to allow placing the decorative siding later on. With 4 planks it came to about 24.0mm. It can be shaved down later on. Also, the planks need to be longer at the bow by at least 15.0mm past bulkhead "F" and flush with the last bulkhead at the stern. I still need to trim that.
 
Next up is tp place the main deck and plank it.
 
Vince P.

I have finally finished the first layer of hull planking below the main deck. This took over a month and a half.  Considering the size of this hull, that was a whole lot of planking. This is definetely the most difficult of the planking. The planks above the main deck are nice and straight, and the second finish layer has a bottom surface to lay it on. The only thing about the finish layer is that it has to be precise and pretty. 
Next up is to install and plank the main deck.
 
Vince P.

An small update.
I decided to plank the balconies and cut-out the frame from 1,5 mm mahogany veneer
 

 

 
I made the frame a bit larger so I’m sure I still can adjust its size if needed.
 

 

 
So next thing on the list are the columns/handrail and some nice wood carvings ..
 

Good day
 
Here is simple build OOB of 12 gun brigantine of admiral F.Ushakov from the kit of Russian maker Master Korabel
 
































 

I now have a total of 10 guns mounted.  I also added the bilge pumps and the aft gallows, although it isn’t glued.  I acquired a new spool of 28 gauge wire that is annealed and it is much stronger than the wire I was using that I got from a craft store.  It’s much easier to work with.  My method for rigging the guns is to do everything before the carriage, with barrel attached, is installed on the deck.  The holes on the bulwark are drilled and the eyebolt for the outhaul tackle is in; and the barrel attached to the carriage before installation.
I do agree that the whole process of setting up the carriage/gun is lengthy, but I try to break it up by doing 4 guns and then working on some deck furniture.  So I have 10 down and 4 to go.  Next up is the capstan – and I’m not pleased with the kit supplied one.  I’m going to have to create my own somehow.
 

Sal, I'm certainly no expert on this matter. You wait for others to chime in. I'd say that each plank on this build could be nibbed and go with that, but I also tend to like the look of it and usually go with what I like over historical accuracy as long as it's not too far fetched.

Started working on the launching ways.  Cut all the pieces and stained them. Made up a little jig to set the cross timbers.
 

 
Also painted the hull and marked the waterline. Almost ready to copper the hull. I wanted to finish the launching ways first so I could locate and drill the holes in the keel for the mounting pins.
 

Hello my friends
 
just a little update. I am working at the preparation of the planking. The frames meanwhile are glued, the stern has ist first planking, the maindeck is planked with the very bright strips. I tried to show the caulked deck. Therefore I used a pencil and marked the edges of the strips very soft. I think it looks quite good - not to strong but visible. No problemns yet - everything fits good and can be worked out very easily.
 
Some pics...
 
 
 

...