mort stoll

I used simple black thread to serve my lines, right from the thread counter. Nothing fancy, just simple thread.

Mort

You should be very proud. I salute you sir.

Mort

Well done my friend, very very well done.

Mort

Hi Stergios,

I used all of the ropes included within the kit. I kept the rope as tight as I could just by keeping it hand tight as I served the ropes. you will see it is easy.

Hope this helps,

Mort

I have always wanted installed belaying pins - glued to the pin rails - before the standing rigging is installed. The entire area is exposed and for me it is easier to install. When the time comes I prefer to belay the rigging line to a secure belaying pin as opposed to a loose one. I put a pin in each hole. If I have any pins that do not have lines belayed to them I usually wrap coils around them. A ship I feel would had extra coils close on hand for emergencies.   

Keep up the great work. Your build is great.

Mort

I used basically the same thread as Jason and I used Elmer's School Glue. Worked out very well.

Mort

Hi Jason,

Hobbymill  is a great source for your wood. Just an FYI if you should need any in the future. They supplied me with wood for my Rattlesnake and it was great. I have maple on order from him for my Diana.

Mort 

Yes I did.

Mort

I used a double block.

Mort

Thanks.

Mort

Thank you, it really does look great.

Mort 

Hi Ray,

Great job as always. Been meaning to ask did you use the kits wood to plank your hull? It looks really great in the pictures.

Thanks,

Mort

Sorry I forgot to add that I think I would have used the kit supplied dowels were I to have not painted the masts and yards.

Mort

I painted my masts ochre and the yards black. I think if I were to do it again I might paint the mast bands black instead of the ochre for a bit of contrast but this was not a fancy boat. She was a working "girl".

Mort

welcome back. You were missed.

Mort

That's why do overs were invented.

Mort

We have  all been there.  I have many many times more then I want to admit, but the bottom line is that I am much happier with the redos than the initial do.

Your build is great. I enjoy it very much.

Keep up the nice work,

Mort 

Hi Kevin,

No, I was just curious. Everything looks great.

Thanks,

Mort

I voted foe an American 74.

Mort

Hi Kevin

What size line did you use for your cannon breaching cables?

Thanks,

Mort

Enjoy your vacation.

My pleasure my friend.

Hi Stergios,

There is nothing to thank me for. We are all in this together. Any advice I can offer I will.

Lever is Darcy Lever - "Young Officer's Sheet Anchor"

Pattersson is Lennarth Petersson - "Rigging Period Ship Models"

Lees is James Lees - "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War"

Take your time and enjoy the rigging process.

I only have to rig #'s 54 and 55, the lower ratlines and hoist the Red Ensign.....hopefully 3-5 weeks more. 

Keep up the great work. Your model is beautiful.

Mort

I have always preferred to attach as many yards and lines - both standing and running rigging lines - as possible to the masts before I step them.  On my last 3 ships - Mamoli Connie and Rattlesnake and Caldercraft Snake - I did not pin - nail -  the yards to the masts or the masts to the deck. I followed Lees, Pattersson and Lever and had no problem. It was just as they said. On my first few models I glued the masts to the deck and pined the - nailed - the yards to the masts.  

I think it is easier and faster to work with everything off of the ship. I label all of the standing rigging lines with the # of the pin they attach to. The schrouds are numbered from bow to stern on the plans  by me so I know where to tie them to on the model. Same with the fore and back stays.

There are times that all of the lines look like a plate of spaghetti but they are easy to untangle and you should have no problem if you take your time.

The rat lines I attach when everything is tied down.

Hope this helps,

Mort  

I agree.

Mort