mort stoll
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Posts posted by mort stoll
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Well done sailor. Very, very well done.
Mort
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Hi Mark,
I use DAP Weldwood Contact Cement. It's not the same as the cement you would use on plastic models. Fact is I don't what it's used for. It's just contact cement. My mentor used it and whatever he said ALWAYS worked. I have been using it since 1986 with no longevity problems at all.
In fact I just had a new can delivered 2 weeks ago for my Victory. Same brand, it's supposed to be low odor except it takes about an hour to dry. If not I go back to the other contact cement.
Mort
- NewbyMark and chris watton
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Hi Mark,
Meant to add that since there is cement on both the hull and plate there's no issue with the corners. Should a corner rise up I gently press it down.
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Hi Mark,
I think I'm in the minority as I use contact cement when I copper a hull. I buy it in 3 ounce bottles, which keeps the fumes down and also apply it with the windows open. The bottle contains a small brush for application. I brush a thin covering onto the hull - a 3x3 or 4X4 area. I then apply it to each copper plate - yes it's time consuming. By then - approximately 15 minutes - the glue on the hull has begun to cure and I then copper the hull.
I like contact cement because I have a few minutes to reposition the plates after I apply them if necessary, as opposed to Ca which instantly dries. If any cement does adhere to a plate I simply and easily peel/rub it off. Finally should it be necessary to slightly adjust or remove a plate after they completely dry I heat the plate with a soldering iron on low heat adjust or replace it.
Any questions, don't hesitate.
Keep up the great work.
Hope this helps,
Mort
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Great job. Can't thank you enough for sharing.
mort
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very nice. very, very nice. you're doing a wonderful job.
keep up the great work.
mort
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perfect. thank you very much my friend.
mort
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impressive, very, very impressive.
mort
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did you order the eyelets from cmb?
keep up the great work it's very very nice.
mort
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well done sailor, very well done.
mort
- RGL, popeye the sailor and Canute
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looks nice really nice. it's a delicate process but it's fine. i painted the preventer stays with elmers school glue - diluted white glue - and used a hair drier to accelerate the drying in order to make sure they stayed straight.
keep up the great work.
mort
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glad to have you back. thanks very much for the reply
mort
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very nice .very very nice.
mort
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was worth waiting for. she looks great
mort
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great job great job. an elegant build
mort
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well done sailor, very well done.
mort
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try micro mark. they should have some.
mort
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nice, very nice. thanks for sharing
mort
- Old Collingwood and flyer
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looking through the beakhead bulkhead door, one is transported back to the day.......
great shot, great modeling.
mort
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welcome home sailor. you were missed. welcome home.
mort
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great job. if i didn't know, i would never know. keep up the great work.
mort
- flyer, Martin W and Old Collingwood
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hi mark,
i used adhesive cooper tape my mamoli connie which i completed about 10 years ago and it worked out fine. i first coated a portion of hull with contact cement and after a few minutes applied the tape - which i cut into individual plates before hand - and all was well.
hope this helps,
mort
HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Posted
I bought 2 boats from CMB and mounted them on the stern quarters. worked out well.
Mort