Ensign
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Domanoff Rope Serving Machine
Ensign replied to Ensign's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thank you Schnu, I will wait and try again later. Gary -
Thanks Glenn Gary
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Hi Glenn, Your gun carriage assemblies are coming along well, they look very good. Could you tell me what you used for Breech rope rings? I intend to add them to my build as well. I am currently working on the upper gun deck so will be posting more photos in my log soon. Regards Gary
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Domanoff Rope Serving Machine
Ensign replied to Ensign's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thank you Brian and Carl for your help. I had forgotten about vacations in August, so thank you Carl I shall be patient and wait awhile. Gary -
I have been trying to contact Alexey for several days about purchasing his Rope Serving Machine. After opening the home page on his website and going to the relevant page for this machine I have tried sending an enquiry via the tab where the price is listed and also tried sending an email via his contact panel. I have done this a number of times over several days and have not received a response. Can anybody enlighten me as to if there is some other method I am not aware of or has he fallen off the planet. Any help would be appreciated. Gary
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Thank you Glenn, Brian & Grant your praise is very encouraging indeed. Brian, thanks for your suggestion it's nice to know someone thinks enough of my work to make a comment like that. I shall check out the society online. Is some of your work featured there? Gary
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Time for an update, the second planking has been completed down to the keel. Overall I am quite happy with the result and feel I have a handle on the spiling of planks at the bow.
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Hi Grant, Victory is looking superb, a great job. I particularly like your attention to detail using references like Longridge etc to get it right, that is what I aspire to. It gives one great satisfaction knowing you have done your best. Gary
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Thanks Glenn, I thought it might be in that area, oh well, we won't get to the north east this time. Off to Sweden after The Cotswolds for an MG adventure. Keep having fun. Gary
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Hi Glenn, Thanks for the heads up on the alignment of the inner and outer gunport patterns, I dry fitted mine last night and of course they are the same as yours. I wasn't aware of this issue and now that David and Patrick have both stated that it is a problem and also how to overcome it, I can proceed without wondering why it is so. I am still doing the second planking, March has been a busy month, so won't post until there is something to see. Thanks also for the photos of Trincomalee, Where is she located? The Admiral and I are coming to visit Victory in late May and then continuing up to Banbury staying at a friends B&B for a few days. It would be nice to visit Trincomalee also but it may not be possible in the time we have. Gary
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Hi Glenn, just read your post on the method you used for second planking. Thank you it is very timely as I am about to tackle this myself, after I finish setting up the Quarter Galleries. I like your method and have copied it in word and printed it out, hope you don't mind. The map pins are a great idea, I use titebond wood glue so they will help in holding the planks in place. Gary
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Hi D'Brat Thank you so much for your praise. I can assure you I had my problems at times, easy it ain't. Every plank was "nailed" to every bulkhead with brass pins left protruding about 3mm. I applied glue and positioned the planks on the bulkheads and then drilled holes slightly smaller than the pin diameter through the planks and bulkheads creating a nice tight press fit. The pins were then removed after the glue had set overnight. The glue I use is Titebond I didn't use any super glue on the planking. Planks were tapered and spiled where necessary and then steam bent to shape using an old style aluminum kettle with a spout I picked up at a camping store. I started by laying the first couple of planks just under the gunport strips then I laid the garboard plank and worked my way back up. I find this gives a better result, for me anyway. Although I've built models most of my life I am only fairly new to wooden ship building so still have lots to learn. Regards Gary
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Thanks Grant, I located a product called Crystal Clear available at Metro Hobbies in Box Hill, about a half hour drive away, so will give that a try. Gary
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I have decided to try using Micro Glaze on the windows of Victory, the local model train shop does not stock the product any more. Can anyone advise where I can buy Micro Mark Micro Glaze I would prefer an Australian supplier if possible. Gary
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Thank you all for the kind words, keep that up and I will need a larger size hat. Gary
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Time for an update. The first planking has now been completed. The benefit of spiling planks at the bow became very apparent as I progressed, not entirely necessary for first planking I know but good practice anyway. Now for a good deal of sanding and some filler. Gary
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I use a Mini Plane,also known as a Balsa Plane. Having marked the line it is then easy to plane down to the line and also to bevel the plank if necessary. These planes should be available from good hobby shops, mine is about 3" or 75mm long and comes with a razor blade making it easy to replace the blade when necessary. Gary
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Hi Glenn, I am now well into the first planking of my Victory, this is the method I use. I try to plank as near to the way ships were actually done as possible as I think this produces a better result for second planking, and requires less sanding and filler. I plank from bow to stern cutting the planks to fit halfway on the bulkheads at the ends ie: each plank butt joints on a bulkhead. I cut the planks to about 150 mm lenghts or so, such that they sit on a bulkhead. Each plank is then tapered to size and in my case steam bent to fit if necessary. I would strongly suggest working the bow and stern separately, they are the most difficult planks to fit. Read the tutorials on planking they are a great guide. Gary
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Ensign, on 03 Jan 2014 - 10:40 PM, said: After much searching I have found a source of the correct diamond pattern Hammock Netting for period model ships, I was looking in a store called Spotlight for those in Australia and NZ, not sure if they are in other countries but I'm sure there are similar haberdashery, craft type stores. The material is Mosquito Netting and found in the curtain department, it comes in a range of colors but most importantly cream and black it cost $4.99/Metre, enough for a flotilla. Hope this benefits others. Can you post a picture of your product? Is it something like in post #19 above? I bought about a 1mt. of this material and have enough for a lifetime. Sorry for the late reply Ulises, only just noticed your question. Yes that is the stuff. Gary
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Thank you all for the words of encouragement. The planking continues so nothing more to show at the moment. Gary
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First planking continues. This brings the build up to date. Gary
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OK photos resized. Bulkheads, middle gun deck and dummy gun barrel strips assembled and glued. The middle gun deck was planked prior to assembly as this seemed an easier way to do it. Middle Gun deck planked. Four step Butt planking as per Longridge and the actual ship. Start of first planking, after fairing the bulkheads. Gary
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Hi all, Having joined MSW a year or so back back I thouht it was time I started a build log. I am 6 weeks into my build of Victory and enjoying every minute. I shall post some photos soon but first they need to be adjusted as the file sizes are way too large. Gary
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David and Nick, Thanks for the advice, I was advised to do this now by Gil Middleton and followed his recommendation, they seem to be ok. I haven't started a build log yet, but will soon. Nick, I'm coming to Portsmouth in late May to visit the old girl. I assume the masts are still off, is that the case? Pity if it is. Mike, I think your post was intended for Amfibius, he is asking about the best model. Gary
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Hi Keith, Caldercraft wins on all counts. I have heard some criticism of their instructions, but with this forum and experience as a model builder I don't see this as a big problem, common sense and forethought plays a big part. The Mamoli instructions leave a bit to be desired but the wood isn't bad, fittings fair, rigging line I would replace and did. Mamoli also requires a lot more fabricating of parts from wooden stock while Caldercraft parts are largely laser cut so much less work involved there, although still a challenge. Caldercraft fittings are in my opinion excellent and it is the most authentic Victory available at the moment. Hope this helps. Gary
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