Capt.Bob

Hi Bob,
 
If by the master you mistakenly mean me, I will try to answer.
 
 Unfortunately, the heights of decks were not included on the original builders offsets.  Crothers used a height of about 7'9" from top of beam to top of beam on the centerline.  I adopted his dimensions, measured from his 1:96 drawing.  The comparable heights at the side will vary due to the constant round up radius of the deck beams and the varying width of the hull.  The red lines on Drawing 5 define the heights at the side with reasonable accuracy.  I believe I recommended using these lines to measure deck heights at the side.  Due to drawing issues in creating long fair lines in bezier curves where there are many points, the fairness of the deck lines at the side (or on the centerline) is not perfect, but close enough for the purpose.  Using battens and a few points along the side will yield fair lines well within acceptable accuracy.  The heights should then be made equal on the opposite side.  A constant differential in deck lines at the side would have saved me many hours of drafting work and might help you as well, but alas, it would be incorrect - at least given the assumptions on the centerline heights.
 
If you want to do an exercise, measure heights at the side from cross-section drawings where the beam round up is shown.  You might want to verify heights at the center before using these.  Hopefully they should match the red lines on Drawing 5.  I do not recall doing this level of checking.  Maybe I'll try a few.
 
Ed

Thank you all for your kind remarks.
 
Roger:  It is a neat trick for quick results.  I have used it on occasion in the past with softer woods like balsa.  Rather than boiling water, I would tightly wrap the pieces in a paper towel saturated with water.  The towel provided a sufficient supply of moisture and enough pressure to help force steam into the material. Hard woods may not be quite as easy.  I can tell you that without sufficient moisture you can set the piece on fire.  I'd rather not explain how I know this.
 
I ran several build threads on RC Universe while building large RC airplanes.  I would build one project a year, which usually took 6-8 months.  Progress on airplanes can be quite dramatic and very conducive to photo essays rather than dialogue.  The YA project, at least for me, is a very long term affair.  I have no illusions about ever completing it.  I not sure that I have enough years left.  However, it has become one of the most rewarding projects I have ever attempted.  It is truly the journey and not the destination that is of the most value.  In the meantime I have my books, music, woodshop, and time spent in the country club bar with friends lying about my golf game.  Honestly, I couldn't be happier than to sit and the feet of the Master and enjoy the beauty of his work.  With Ed's indulgence I will be happy to inject a brief update now and then.
 
For the Master: After resolving approximately 150 data points I have come to the conclusion that the correct dimension between the top surface of the three deck clamps is 84". Please confirm.   I have attributed any significant data variation to print distortion and measurement error.  As a means of eliminating as much error as possible I am designing a jig to set the middle and lower deck clamps using the main deck clamp as a datum.  These feature are so fundamental that it deserves extra effort.
 
I'm a little surprised that I appear to be the only one enjoying the build of such a great vessel.  Also, what man can pass up an excuse to buy more tools.  Just for prospective I've attached a photo of where the ship was born.  12 bdf of 8/4 Swiss pear.
 
Later,  Bob
 
 

While there is a lull in the action, I thought I'd share some progress on my YA.  After making frames for what seemed like forever, its finally time to begin on the ship's interior.  Ed suggested starting with the bilge ceiling, but since it required removing the shell from the shipway (which I have never had the courage to do), I've decided to start with the deck clamps.  With the three deck clamps in place the structure will be far more rigid and less prone to warping.  Given the importance of these initial structures I have had nightmares about alinement accuracy.  I keep re-measuring everything constantly.  The deeper I get into this project the greater the investment.  It can get a bit scary.
 
Looking ahead at the bending members I decided a small steam box is going to be essential.  I built this small one from an old electric kettle, tubing, and PVC pipe.  I made a 12", 18", & 36" insulated tube oven to accommodate different sizes.  I steamed an 8 X 8 piece of hard maple and bent it around the stern rail pattern.  It seemed to work quite well.  However, PVC doesn't like elevated temperatures.  I'm going to try ABS.
 
I do have a question for Ed.  You used 24 awg wire and 5 minute epoxy to secure the deck clamps, et al.  Also, you peened the ends of the wire after cure.  I'm concerned that 5 minute epoxy has too short a working life and would constantly mixing small batches.  Additionally, by peening the ends after trimming I would be concerned about breaking the epoxy/copper bond.  Any advice?
 
Its time to charge into the breach.  ....., the brave die but once.
 
Bob

While there is a lull in the action, I thought I'd share some progress on my YA.  After making frames for what seemed like forever, its finally time to begin on the ship's interior.  Ed suggested starting with the bilge ceiling, but since it required removing the shell from the shipway (which I have never had the courage to do), I've decided to start with the deck clamps.  With the three deck clamps in place the structure will be far more rigid and less prone to warping.  Given the importance of these initial structures I have had nightmares about alinement accuracy.  I keep re-measuring everything constantly.  The deeper I get into this project the greater the investment.  It can get a bit scary.
 
Looking ahead at the bending members I decided a small steam box is going to be essential.  I built this small one from an old electric kettle, tubing, and PVC pipe.  I made a 12", 18", & 36" insulated tube oven to accommodate different sizes.  I steamed an 8 X 8 piece of hard maple and bent it around the stern rail pattern.  It seemed to work quite well.  However, PVC doesn't like elevated temperatures.  I'm going to try ABS.
 
I do have a question for Ed.  You used 24 awg wire and 5 minute epoxy to secure the deck clamps, et al.  Also, you peened the ends of the wire after cure.  I'm concerned that 5 minute epoxy has too short a working life and would constantly mixing small batches.  Additionally, by peening the ends after trimming I would be concerned about breaking the epoxy/copper bond.  Any advice?
 
Its time to charge into the breach.  ....., the brave die but once.
 
Bob

While there is a lull in the action, I thought I'd share some progress on my YA.  After making frames for what seemed like forever, its finally time to begin on the ship's interior.  Ed suggested starting with the bilge ceiling, but since it required removing the shell from the shipway (which I have never had the courage to do), I've decided to start with the deck clamps.  With the three deck clamps in place the structure will be far more rigid and less prone to warping.  Given the importance of these initial structures I have had nightmares about alinement accuracy.  I keep re-measuring everything constantly.  The deeper I get into this project the greater the investment.  It can get a bit scary.
 
Looking ahead at the bending members I decided a small steam box is going to be essential.  I built this small one from an old electric kettle, tubing, and PVC pipe.  I made a 12", 18", & 36" insulated tube oven to accommodate different sizes.  I steamed an 8 X 8 piece of hard maple and bent it around the stern rail pattern.  It seemed to work quite well.  However, PVC doesn't like elevated temperatures.  I'm going to try ABS.
 
I do have a question for Ed.  You used 24 awg wire and 5 minute epoxy to secure the deck clamps, et al.  Also, you peened the ends of the wire after cure.  I'm concerned that 5 minute epoxy has too short a working life and would constantly mixing small batches.  Additionally, by peening the ends after trimming I would be concerned about breaking the epoxy/copper bond.  Any advice?
 
Its time to charge into the breach.  ....., the brave die but once.
 
Bob

While there is a lull in the action, I thought I'd share some progress on my YA.  After making frames for what seemed like forever, its finally time to begin on the ship's interior.  Ed suggested starting with the bilge ceiling, but since it required removing the shell from the shipway (which I have never had the courage to do), I've decided to start with the deck clamps.  With the three deck clamps in place the structure will be far more rigid and less prone to warping.  Given the importance of these initial structures I have had nightmares about alinement accuracy.  I keep re-measuring everything constantly.  The deeper I get into this project the greater the investment.  It can get a bit scary.
 
Looking ahead at the bending members I decided a small steam box is going to be essential.  I built this small one from an old electric kettle, tubing, and PVC pipe.  I made a 12", 18", & 36" insulated tube oven to accommodate different sizes.  I steamed an 8 X 8 piece of hard maple and bent it around the stern rail pattern.  It seemed to work quite well.  However, PVC doesn't like elevated temperatures.  I'm going to try ABS.
 
I do have a question for Ed.  You used 24 awg wire and 5 minute epoxy to secure the deck clamps, et al.  Also, you peened the ends of the wire after cure.  I'm concerned that 5 minute epoxy has too short a working life and would constantly mixing small batches.  Additionally, by peening the ends after trimming I would be concerned about breaking the epoxy/copper bond.  Any advice?
 
Its time to charge into the breach.  ....., the brave die but once.
 
Bob

While there is a lull in the action, I thought I'd share some progress on my YA.  After making frames for what seemed like forever, its finally time to begin on the ship's interior.  Ed suggested starting with the bilge ceiling, but since it required removing the shell from the shipway (which I have never had the courage to do), I've decided to start with the deck clamps.  With the three deck clamps in place the structure will be far more rigid and less prone to warping.  Given the importance of these initial structures I have had nightmares about alinement accuracy.  I keep re-measuring everything constantly.  The deeper I get into this project the greater the investment.  It can get a bit scary.
 
Looking ahead at the bending members I decided a small steam box is going to be essential.  I built this small one from an old electric kettle, tubing, and PVC pipe.  I made a 12", 18", & 36" insulated tube oven to accommodate different sizes.  I steamed an 8 X 8 piece of hard maple and bent it around the stern rail pattern.  It seemed to work quite well.  However, PVC doesn't like elevated temperatures.  I'm going to try ABS.
 
I do have a question for Ed.  You used 24 awg wire and 5 minute epoxy to secure the deck clamps, et al.  Also, you peened the ends of the wire after cure.  I'm concerned that 5 minute epoxy has too short a working life and would constantly mixing small batches.  Additionally, by peening the ends after trimming I would be concerned about breaking the epoxy/copper bond.  Any advice?
 
Its time to charge into the breach.  ....., the brave die but once.
 
Bob

While there is a lull in the action, I thought I'd share some progress on my YA.  After making frames for what seemed like forever, its finally time to begin on the ship's interior.  Ed suggested starting with the bilge ceiling, but since it required removing the shell from the shipway (which I have never had the courage to do), I've decided to start with the deck clamps.  With the three deck clamps in place the structure will be far more rigid and less prone to warping.  Given the importance of these initial structures I have had nightmares about alinement accuracy.  I keep re-measuring everything constantly.  The deeper I get into this project the greater the investment.  It can get a bit scary.
 
Looking ahead at the bending members I decided a small steam box is going to be essential.  I built this small one from an old electric kettle, tubing, and PVC pipe.  I made a 12", 18", & 36" insulated tube oven to accommodate different sizes.  I steamed an 8 X 8 piece of hard maple and bent it around the stern rail pattern.  It seemed to work quite well.  However, PVC doesn't like elevated temperatures.  I'm going to try ABS.
 
I do have a question for Ed.  You used 24 awg wire and 5 minute epoxy to secure the deck clamps, et al.  Also, you peened the ends of the wire after cure.  I'm concerned that 5 minute epoxy has too short a working life and would constantly mixing small batches.  Additionally, by peening the ends after trimming I would be concerned about breaking the epoxy/copper bond.  Any advice?
 
Its time to charge into the breach.  ....., the brave die but once.
 
Bob

While there is a lull in the action, I thought I'd share some progress on my YA.  After making frames for what seemed like forever, its finally time to begin on the ship's interior.  Ed suggested starting with the bilge ceiling, but since it required removing the shell from the shipway (which I have never had the courage to do), I've decided to start with the deck clamps.  With the three deck clamps in place the structure will be far more rigid and less prone to warping.  Given the importance of these initial structures I have had nightmares about alinement accuracy.  I keep re-measuring everything constantly.  The deeper I get into this project the greater the investment.  It can get a bit scary.
 
Looking ahead at the bending members I decided a small steam box is going to be essential.  I built this small one from an old electric kettle, tubing, and PVC pipe.  I made a 12", 18", & 36" insulated tube oven to accommodate different sizes.  I steamed an 8 X 8 piece of hard maple and bent it around the stern rail pattern.  It seemed to work quite well.  However, PVC doesn't like elevated temperatures.  I'm going to try ABS.
 
I do have a question for Ed.  You used 24 awg wire and 5 minute epoxy to secure the deck clamps, et al.  Also, you peened the ends of the wire after cure.  I'm concerned that 5 minute epoxy has too short a working life and would constantly mixing small batches.  Additionally, by peening the ends after trimming I would be concerned about breaking the epoxy/copper bond.  Any advice?
 
Its time to charge into the breach.  ....., the brave die but once.
 
Bob

While there is a lull in the action, I thought I'd share some progress on my YA.  After making frames for what seemed like forever, its finally time to begin on the ship's interior.  Ed suggested starting with the bilge ceiling, but since it required removing the shell from the shipway (which I have never had the courage to do), I've decided to start with the deck clamps.  With the three deck clamps in place the structure will be far more rigid and less prone to warping.  Given the importance of these initial structures I have had nightmares about alinement accuracy.  I keep re-measuring everything constantly.  The deeper I get into this project the greater the investment.  It can get a bit scary.
 
Looking ahead at the bending members I decided a small steam box is going to be essential.  I built this small one from an old electric kettle, tubing, and PVC pipe.  I made a 12", 18", & 36" insulated tube oven to accommodate different sizes.  I steamed an 8 X 8 piece of hard maple and bent it around the stern rail pattern.  It seemed to work quite well.  However, PVC doesn't like elevated temperatures.  I'm going to try ABS.
 
I do have a question for Ed.  You used 24 awg wire and 5 minute epoxy to secure the deck clamps, et al.  Also, you peened the ends of the wire after cure.  I'm concerned that 5 minute epoxy has too short a working life and would constantly mixing small batches.  Additionally, by peening the ends after trimming I would be concerned about breaking the epoxy/copper bond.  Any advice?
 
Its time to charge into the breach.  ....., the brave die but once.
 
Bob

While there is a lull in the action, I thought I'd share some progress on my YA.  After making frames for what seemed like forever, its finally time to begin on the ship's interior.  Ed suggested starting with the bilge ceiling, but since it required removing the shell from the shipway (which I have never had the courage to do), I've decided to start with the deck clamps.  With the three deck clamps in place the structure will be far more rigid and less prone to warping.  Given the importance of these initial structures I have had nightmares about alinement accuracy.  I keep re-measuring everything constantly.  The deeper I get into this project the greater the investment.  It can get a bit scary.
 
Looking ahead at the bending members I decided a small steam box is going to be essential.  I built this small one from an old electric kettle, tubing, and PVC pipe.  I made a 12", 18", & 36" insulated tube oven to accommodate different sizes.  I steamed an 8 X 8 piece of hard maple and bent it around the stern rail pattern.  It seemed to work quite well.  However, PVC doesn't like elevated temperatures.  I'm going to try ABS.
 
I do have a question for Ed.  You used 24 awg wire and 5 minute epoxy to secure the deck clamps, et al.  Also, you peened the ends of the wire after cure.  I'm concerned that 5 minute epoxy has too short a working life and would constantly mixing small batches.  Additionally, by peening the ends after trimming I would be concerned about breaking the epoxy/copper bond.  Any advice?
 
Its time to charge into the breach.  ....., the brave die but once.
 
Bob

While there is a lull in the action, I thought I'd share some progress on my YA.  After making frames for what seemed like forever, its finally time to begin on the ship's interior.  Ed suggested starting with the bilge ceiling, but since it required removing the shell from the shipway (which I have never had the courage to do), I've decided to start with the deck clamps.  With the three deck clamps in place the structure will be far more rigid and less prone to warping.  Given the importance of these initial structures I have had nightmares about alinement accuracy.  I keep re-measuring everything constantly.  The deeper I get into this project the greater the investment.  It can get a bit scary.
 
Looking ahead at the bending members I decided a small steam box is going to be essential.  I built this small one from an old electric kettle, tubing, and PVC pipe.  I made a 12", 18", & 36" insulated tube oven to accommodate different sizes.  I steamed an 8 X 8 piece of hard maple and bent it around the stern rail pattern.  It seemed to work quite well.  However, PVC doesn't like elevated temperatures.  I'm going to try ABS.
 
I do have a question for Ed.  You used 24 awg wire and 5 minute epoxy to secure the deck clamps, et al.  Also, you peened the ends of the wire after cure.  I'm concerned that 5 minute epoxy has too short a working life and would constantly mixing small batches.  Additionally, by peening the ends after trimming I would be concerned about breaking the epoxy/copper bond.  Any advice?
 
Its time to charge into the breach.  ....., the brave die but once.
 
Bob

While there is a lull in the action, I thought I'd share some progress on my YA.  After making frames for what seemed like forever, its finally time to begin on the ship's interior.  Ed suggested starting with the bilge ceiling, but since it required removing the shell from the shipway (which I have never had the courage to do), I've decided to start with the deck clamps.  With the three deck clamps in place the structure will be far more rigid and less prone to warping.  Given the importance of these initial structures I have had nightmares about alinement accuracy.  I keep re-measuring everything constantly.  The deeper I get into this project the greater the investment.  It can get a bit scary.
 
Looking ahead at the bending members I decided a small steam box is going to be essential.  I built this small one from an old electric kettle, tubing, and PVC pipe.  I made a 12", 18", & 36" insulated tube oven to accommodate different sizes.  I steamed an 8 X 8 piece of hard maple and bent it around the stern rail pattern.  It seemed to work quite well.  However, PVC doesn't like elevated temperatures.  I'm going to try ABS.
 
I do have a question for Ed.  You used 24 awg wire and 5 minute epoxy to secure the deck clamps, et al.  Also, you peened the ends of the wire after cure.  I'm concerned that 5 minute epoxy has too short a working life and would constantly mixing small batches.  Additionally, by peening the ends after trimming I would be concerned about breaking the epoxy/copper bond.  Any advice?
 
Its time to charge into the breach.  ....., the brave die but once.
 
Bob

Wayne, thank you for the link to the Science Museum picture of Cutty Sark.  I had not seen it before and have never seen the model, although I made at least 15-20 visits to the model section of the Science Museum in the 1980's.  Since many of these were to make notes on the Longridge Victory model. I know I would not have missed it, so I can only assume it was not on display in that period.  Of course, all that is gone now.
 
Greg, your comment got me paging back through the Longridge Cutty Sark book.  Like Anatomy, it is a fascinating read.  Some points that caught my eye:
 
In the 1933 preface he states that in trying to find a book giving "the anatomical view" of a sailing ship, he had it on good authority that "no such book existed in the English language".
 
Then, interestingly, "Although models of the Cutty Sark are so many, and varied, that as a prototype, she  is a somewhat hackneyed subject, I decided to build a model of her....".  Already hackneyed in 1933?
 
On Scale:  The model is 1/4" to the foot.  A big model of a 200' ship, but as I think about it, not a lot larger than the 1:72 model of the 239' Young America.
 
His comments on addresses in London where items may be purchased are fun to read - things like silk and linen thread, tinned copper wire, tools, etc.
 
He made actual screwed shackles from 26 gauge copper wire, hand filed the milling cutter teeth to groove the waterways, served all the footropes and stirrups, silver plated thimbles made from copper sheet, and it goes on.
 
Using a cyanide bath to darken metal makes me less hateful of the products we all use (and love to hate) today. 
 
Although for some reason I overlooked his model design for the windlass, I was pleased (and relieved) that it looks a lot like mine - and like mine his is virtually invisible under the forecastle.
 
The drawings for the book were done by Harold Underhill - a name that I am sure we all know.
 
The book contains many pictures of the ship and of the model in progress.
 
His comments on rigging sequence - leaving lower ratlines until all running rigging is done, setting up main and topmast stays before the lanyard on the lower shrouds on next  forward masts, etc.  But the big one is to make all the rigging with its parts, etc. an tuck it await in storage before any is erected on the model.  Who has the self-control for that?
 
A fascinating book - and worth the search it will take to find it.
 
Ed
 
 

Thank you, all.
 
Frank, the drafting has been a major part of the project and its complexity is ramping up as rigging approaches. One of my goals is to adopt a new approach to presenting rigging information.  I think this may be warranted by the inclusion of many lines on the model that are often omitted from the usual rigging drawings or many models.  For example, even Crothers extremely well done and detailed drawings exclude many important lines, like sheets, bunt and leech lines, reef tackle, to say nothing of running rigging associated with fore and aft sails - jibs, staysails, etc.  Even if some would decide to omit these lines from models, I wanted to include them in the design.  
 
Even at this level, I am not planning to describe or model the running rigging for studding sails that was usually stored with the sails and would not appear on the ship at most times.  Including all this on a typical rigging plan (or plans) would result in unreadable drawings.  
 
Also, the usual method of a belaying pin diagram that relates a pin number to the name of the line has always left me frustrated with the amount of cross-referencing left to the modeler.  
 
Finally, I think rigging can be made a lot more understandable and user friendly if preparation for it begins early in the modeling.  Hence, you will see rigging line numbers appearing on deck plans, spar and spar furniture drawings, sometimes along with rigging elements like blocks, shackles, etc, that are best installed early, as the pieces are made.  So far, this is working out well from the modeling standpoint but has added work to the drafting and other document preparation.  I am finding the process fascinating and hope to say more about it and specifics as work proceeds.
 
I should say that some gratitude is owed to author's who have influenced my thinking on this in earlier and present work:  Longridge, McKay, and Underhill.  While I am not duplicating their presentations on rigging, they have influenced my thinking and been very helpful.  McKay with the Victory Rigging List.  Longridge and Underhill with their setup notes and diagrams.  I should note that much of the design is coming from contemporary sources like, Luce, Murphy and Jeffers, Kipping, Biddlecomb, and others.
 
So, a long story but one I hope will generate some interest.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 192 – More on Tops
 
The holiday season is a time for reflection and I have been thinking about the work ahead on YA in the New Year and beyond.  One of the approaching tasks is to finish the dust case that was started in an earlier post.  This project always gets me thinking about the size of the model.  The first photo, showing the drawing of the enormous fore yard attached to the mast, is not nearly as scary as it is in real life, but gives some appreciation of the final model size.
 

 
The yard is 82' long (~14" actual), just 7' shorter than the entire lower mast from step to cap – and without studding sail booms.  Even with all my familiarity with the drafting, it was somewhat shocking. 
 
The height of the model is another issue.  The next picture was taken using a Christmas gift – a new tripod that can crank up to 7' in height.
 

 
This will be needed for the rigging photos.  A leg of the old tripod may be seen in the picture.  So much for reflections on model size.
 
Some questions arose on the fabrication of the tops after the last post.  The steps are many, so I will refrain from describing everything here, except to answer some questions.  In the first picture the distance between index holes is being measured so the crosstree can be drilled to match the index holes on the drawing.
 

 
The aft tree has already been drilled and pinned in place on the drawing.  With the crosstrees in place the trestletrees were marked and the mortises cut, one at a time.  In the next picture the forward tree has been removed to check the first mortises.
 

 
After the structure was assembled, the bending pattern used for the rim, was used to mark the inner line of the rim on the structure.
 

 
In the next picture the half-laps on the cross and trestle trees have been cut, the structure has been located using pins, the rim has been pinned in place, and a chisel is being used to mark the lines of the mortises to be cut in the rim.
 

 
After fitting the joints, the rim was glued to the trees and all the excess ends were trimmed back.  The iron rim plates were then attached as described earlier.
 
There was a question on the slotting of the rim to fit the deadeye straps.  The next picture shows this being done using a jewelers saw.
 

 
The holes are too small to be filed.  The saw works well.  It does take some contortions to fit the saw to the threaded blade and to reverse it so the cut is always downward on the plate.  This keeps it from peeling off.
 
There is a cap over the forward part of the rim, covering the plank ends and also the joint at the forward end of the trestletrees.  This was cut from a single piece of wood and is shown in the next picture being finish sanded.
 

 
In this picture some planking has been installed.  These were installed over the lubbers hole to ensure a straight line once the lubber hole sections were cut out.  The next picture shows the three tops planked.
 

 
The holes in the fairlead planks were drilled using the x-y table on the mill to set the spacing.   I spent quite a lot of time this week making sure there were sufficient holes in each top.  This required reviewing the entire running rigging list of roughly 400 lines.  Each hole is allocated to a specific line – generally buntlines, leech lines, clue lines, upper sail sheets and some jib lines.  Six yards on each mast add up.  The line numbers for the mizzen top may be seen in the lower right of the photo.  As a result of the review, I added holes at the forward end of each top.  The fore and main tops now have 40 holes each and the mizzen 34.  There are just a few spare open holes, none in the mizzen top.  I mention this because rigging design and checking is consuming a lot of my time, so the modeling progress these days is slow.
 
The drawing in the last picture shows additional features added to the cap, in this case the mizzen cap.  Drawing discrepancies in the pictures, actually revisions were mentioned earlier.  Note that blocks are shown on the cap.  These are shackled to the cross iron on the cap, so to avoid having to strap the blocks later to the soldered shackles on the installed cap, this will be done before fitting the iron to the cap – a complication in using soldered shackles that requires more rigging checks early in the work – in this case checks of the entire standing and running list.  All of this is a great mental exercise.
 
Happy New Year everyone.
 
Ed
 

Mark
 
Ed has some very good drawings on making the simple screw clamps, flexible screw clamps and planking clamps like you see in his build logs in volume I of his Naiad books on pages 215 through 218.  Just one of many great things to be found in his Naiad books.
 
Allan

I just bought your book and it's fantastic. I'm strongly considering it for my next build. I saw the mini wood hand screw clamps throughout the book and wondering where you got them? 
 
Mark

Thank you, Mark, for your response to the book and for interest in building the model.  It has been a great experience for me - both the full-framed 1:72 model and the 1:96 hull.  The subject is certainly a beautiful ship.  If you decide to build one version or the other, please consider a build log on MSW.  You will get a lot of help - and a lot of satisfaction from that.  I know I do.
 
As Allan says, The Naid Frigate, Volume I contains an appendix on toolmaking that includes drawings and text on making three types of clamps, the flexible wood screw calmps, a simpler version of these, and the planking clamps that I have used on both Naiad and YA.  I have been pleased to see a number of modelers on MSW adopting these tools and other fixtures described in that first Naiad book.  Also, in that appendix is a section on making and hardening small chisels that will be very helpful in small hardwood joinery.  I will be most interested if you decide to proceed with YA - or make any of the tools.
 
Than you, Allan and Happy New Year to you - and to everyone at MSW as well.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 191 – Decking the Fore Top
 
Just when I was having fun with wood, more ironwork was needed.  The first picture shows the addition of iron reinforcing for the rim in the area where the topmast shrouds will be positioned.
 

 
The iron in this case is .010" copper, snipped to the shape of the top, glued on with CA.  It was then trimmed to shape and polished, at least on the port side in the picture.
 
The next picture shows the frame temporarily wedged on to the hounds.
 

 
The iron rim caps have been drilled through the index points.  The wooden rim cap that will cover the plank ends is being glued on in this picture.  In the next picture, planking of the top is proceeding.
 

 
Planks are 6" x 2 ½" thick.  The 9" fairlead planks have been drilled and are being installed.  The next picture shows the top with all planking installed.
 

 
The holes in the rim have been converted to slots that will pass the deadeye straps.  Also, the two iron fid plates on which the topmast fid will rest have been installed.  Work on the fore mast cap has begun and is shown in the picture.
 
The next picture shows the top again placed on the hounds.
 

 
In the next picture the top has been trimmed out and the ironwork blackened. 
 

 
There are six eyebolts under the forward rim for the fore course bunt and leech lines.  The two on the top of the rim will be hooked to the tackles of the upper topsail sheets.  An interesting location for these.  Belaying points for the added upper topsails may have been difficult to find on the crowded deck rails.  The next picture shows the aft side.
 

 
The eyebolt just aft of the mast will secure the main topgallant stay.  There should be just sufficient space between this and the mast for the shroud collars.  The shackled eyebolt on the aft crosstree will anchor the standing lift on the spencer gaff.  There may need to be a bracket added forward of the topmast to secure an iron stay for the lower topsail yard that will be fixed at the cap.
 
Last post before the holidays.  All the best to everyone in this special season.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 190 – Framing the Fore Top
 
It was nice to get back to some pure – well almost pure – woodworking on the tops.  There will be ironwork involved, but not in this post.  The first picture shows the first step, pinning the 9" x 9" crosstrees to the drawing.
 

 
Pins were placed in holes that are centered on the slots that will pass the deadeye straps for the topmast shrouds.  They are conveniently located to index the pieces.  In the next picture the 9" x 18" trestletrees have been mortised and fitted.
 

 
The port trestletree is being glued, held down by pin clamps.  The next picture shows the basic framework positioned on the hounds.
 

 
The spacing of the members provides just sufficient clearance to go over the masthead bands.  The top framing is temporarily wedged forward of the mast to check and adjust the level on the top face of the hounds.  The top is aft-heavy.  The next picture shows the rim being formed.
 

 
This was made in a two piece laminate to facilitate bending and minimize spring-back after the two dried pieces were glued.  The rim is shown on the drawing in the next picture.
 

 
The lap joints in the trees have been cut in this picture.  In the next picture the laps have been cut in the rim.
 

 
Indexing holes were drilled in the rim before the joinery was done.  Finally, the assembled framing.
 

 
Next, planking and triming out the top.
 
Ed
 

Hi Ed,
There appears to be a discrepancy between the spanker mast bracket show in the third photo and the drawing.  You have added a flange on the forward face of the bracket which does not appear on the drawing.  Am I mistaken?
 
Bob

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 189 – Lower Mizzen Fittings
 
The mizzen mast has some additional hardware not found on the forward masts. First, there is a belaying ring, or spider band around the mast instead of the fife rails of the forward masts.  The design of this is not documented, but from the work on the rigging list, at least 16 lines should be belayed here.  The ring for the model is a simple circular flange around the mast bored for 16 belaying pins.  The unblackened part is shown in the first picture.
 

 
This was made as a turning from a solid brass billet to fit over a brass tube mast ring that was silver-soldered in.  The pin holes were then drilled in the mill using the rotary table.  The ring will be a tight fit over the mast about 39" off the deck.  This is a pretty piece that will be completely hidden under a mass of rope.
 
In the next picture it has been blackened and installed on the mast.  Above it is a reinforcing hoop and above that will be a bracket that will support the spanker mast.
 

 
 
A start on the spanker mast bracket is shown in the drawing.  The mast band part of it has been shaped to fit the mast and will be soldered with other parts added progressively.  The finished bracket is shown in the next picture.
 

 
This piece is of thicker stock than the normal mast hoop, as were the bands for the lower yard trusses.  The small eye will support the goose neck of the spanker boom.  Both pieces are shown on the mast in the next picture. 
 

 
The spider ring was pre-blackened, but all the copper work will be blackened later as was done for the other masts.  The third piece to be made was the wood stool for the spanker mast.  While the bracket maintains the horizontal position, the stool will take the weight of the 9" diameter mast.  The next picture shows the stool parts.
 

 
For strength on the model, I set the stool itself into a mortise in the mast that will give it the appearance of a surrounding piece but the strength of the mortise joint.  Two triangular gussets that will reinforce the stool are shown.  The last picture shows the three items installed.
 

 
Shaping and polishing of the stool assembly has yet to be done.  The gussets were glued to flats filed on the mast.  The remaining hoops may now be installed on the mizzen mast.
 
Meanwhile, work has begun on the fore top.
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 188 – Completing Main and Fore Masts
 
Just a few finishing up steps were required to complete the two large lower masts.  First, the tops of the hounds had to be angled to the rake of their masts so the tops, when fitted, would be level.  The foremast rake is about 4.75 degrees and the main is at about 5.4 degrees.  A plywood gauge, shown in the first picture was trimmed on each side to these angles.
 

 
This gauge was then used to check the angle of the hounds as it was trimmed back by filing, as shown below.
 

 
The gauge is held parallel to the masthead in the picture.  These mastheads are not tapered.  Both sides had to be matched.  These will get a final trim when the tops are installed and can be levelled more accurately and in both directions. 
 
The next picture shows the main and fore masts with all the construction work completed.
 

 
All the foremast ironwork has been blackened in the picture.  This was all done all at once after all the bands, including the masthead bands were installed and all other work on the mast completed.  This was done to avoid excessive handling of the blackened bands.  Liver of sulfur solution was brushed into each band until black.  Brushing helps eliminate black powdery buildup.  As each band was blackened it was rinsed under running water.  The masts were left to dry overnight then given a finish of Tung oil diluted 50%, applied with cotton swabs.  In the next picture a dry cotton swab is being used to soak up any excess oil.
 

 
The Tung oil restores the tone of the Castello and protects the blackened metal as well as the wood.  The mastheads were left unfinished so that wood fittings may be added later after the tops are slipped over.  The last picture shows the two masts placed temporarily in position to allow the Tung oil to dry..
 

 
Mast wedges will be made and fitted at the partners later, probably after the tops and masthead trim is installed.  This will permit that work to be completed on the workbench.  Meanwhile, the mizzen mast is in the works.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 187 – Chafing Battens
 
Chafing battens were used to limit damage to sails and rigging that were subject to rubbing against ironwork or other rough parts of masts or spars.  The largest and most prominent of these are the large forward battens on the lower masts.  These protected the lower sails. 
 
I am not sure how these battens were fitted over the mast bands in practice, but I assume they would be slotted, caulked, and sealed to prevent moisture causing rot on the mast.  So, fitting these neatly over the mast bands becomes a chore.
 
First, the battens must be fit over the mast.  I started by milling a concave gutter in the batten stock as shown in the first picture.
 

 
The purpose of this was to establish a straight groove as a starting point for the handwork necessary to fit the piece to the tapered mast.  This fitting was done with the curved rifflers in the next picture – with frequent checks against the mast itself, in this case the unbanded, new main mast in the picture.
 

 
After fitting to the mast, the batten was ripped off of the stock shown above.  Once the bands were placed on the mast, clearance slots were filed at the band locations.
 

 
These slots provide clearance at the edges but not in the center of the batten.  The slots are shallow.  The bands are only .010" thick.  The spaces between the slots were hollowed out with a small gouge to help the batten lie flat on the mast.
 

 
Since these inside hollows will not be visible, no attempt was made to square them to fit the bands.
 
The batten was then glued to the mast.  The shellac coating was filed away under the joint so the glue would adhere.  The batten was then nailed/bolted along its length with monofilament bolts held with CA.
 
The batten was then rounded on its forward face to the correct thickness.
 
The next picture shows the forward batten and the smaller side battens glued and bolted to the foremast. 
 

 
The side battens extend over the area where both the mainstay and the main topmast stay pass beside the mast.  This was checked by running lines from the main top, hence the red correction notation on the drawing.  The next picture shows these with the foremast temporarily in position.
 

 
The last picture shows the forward batten on the new main mast – alongside the replaced earlier mast.
 

 
Ed