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Rich_engr

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Everything posted by Rich_engr

  1. Yep, that's about right... of course, since this is my first build, I am basically estimating the time for each step (masting, rigging, deck fixtures, guns, etc.). Some things tend to go a lot faster than I expected, while others take a good bit longer. One thing I am noticing is that as I gain experience, I can recover a lot more quickly and don't have to spend as much time re-tracing my steps if I don't work on her for a while. Also, I'm not constantly referring to the plans as my safety net- I can basically see how it's supposed to go, then refer to the plans for a specific location/reference point. Plus, I only have a few hours in the evenings and some on the weekends to work on it. Keel was laid in April 2009 or so, and there's been over a year where I didn't work on her at all, but if my momentum keeps up I should be able to pull that "2 years from now" in a bit. Nonetheless, I'm trying to do it right and incorporate as much fine detail as I feel comfortable with at this time- pushing my limits but knowing when to stop. As an update: The other night I stropped all of the DB's for the guns, and last night I stropped around 70 of the SB's (some need reworked since the wires broke). Next up: Finish the remaining 20 or so SB's and then seize the "pigtails" of the tackle lines to the SB's, followed by reeving the tackle. Then I gotta cut and drill the remaining breech plates and finish the rest of the carriges, as well as blacken the guns and eyebolts.
  2. Here's an idea as to my process/order of events for the build- this is a Gantt chart I made up during lunch one time (apologize for the bad scanned copy). MS2240 Sched.pdf Although I'm not necessarily keeping to the milestones and dates, it helps me stay somewhat organized and focused on one aspect at a time.
  3. John- check out my Niagara build log, page 2 or 3 for how to rig a caronnade. For attaching the strop to the block, I show a simple process for this. Once stropped, the tackle line is passed thru a small hole in the end of the strop (really just a gap big enough for the line to fit). This line is then seized to the block, then reeved thru the blocks. Although my guns have double blocks attached to the bulwarks and a single on the gun, the process should be very similar. I hope this helps! -Rich
  4. Welcome back to the club Ken! We look forward to seeing your build! Sucks about the damage, but one good thing of starting a new one is that you have an opportunity to do it even better than before!
  5. Lol! Patrick, that's funny!! Yeah, I tend to look for efficient ways when doing things (my ocd engineer in me). My management team must know yours, but we are working to improve the situation here (Gemba anyone?). I doubt it was my grilled cheese- most likely was adrenaline/focus (which one would think a few cold ones would have relaxed me after mowing...) Glad you like the blocks- I really hope when all is said and done, they still look ok scale-wise. We shall see. Over the weekend I'd like to have about 4 guns rigged so I can place them on deck to check the scale.
  6. This evening I was able to strop 90 double blocks (and this was after moving the front lawn and making grilled cheeses for dinner). Tomorrow will be stropping the single blocks!!!
  7. Here's how I strop the blocks: 1. Basic components here are the 5/32 double blocks (DB's) and some 1 in long pieces of 0.020 in wire (from Michaels). 2. I stick two drill bits the size of the reeve holes into a block to hold the DB's steady when I form the wire around them. In this case I can stack up to 7 blocks at a time. 3. With the wire formed around the block, I then use some small pliers and twist the end (maybe 1-2 turns, keeping it tight around the block) to form the "knot" at the top, while leaving one end longer (this end will be used to form the hook). 4. Next, I use a #60 drill bit (size may vary depending on the size of hook) to bend the wire around to form the head/top of the hook. 5. Finally, use a pair of nippers to slightly bend up the end and cut the excess off, leaving a nicely formed hook at the top.
  8. Yeah, I know about the weather/seasons up there- I grew up in Pittsburgh. . Last time I mowed was Feb here (temps have been ALL over the place, 29 the other night, 70 today, 82 on Monday- it's a crapshoot right now!). The guns are gonna be fun, but I probably need to do a few then make some deck stuff just to keep it interesting and not so single-tracked. So far the guns and the deck have been the most fun (planking the hull for me was like having a sprinter try to run a double marathon!). Definitely looking forward to trying my hand at the rigging- guns are good mini-practice right now.
  9. Not much to report for this evening, other than sanded down the remaining 50 DB's for the guns, tumbled them in my homemade block tumbler, and on the line drying with stain. The next few evenings will be stropping... or moving the lawn (depending on the weather). This weekend I hope to face the Blacken-it and get the guns & all metal parts done.
  10. Sanded another 20 DB's & stropped 40. What I might do for some variety is after I complete this first batch of 6 carronades, I might move onto the deck & bulwark hardware and deck houses, then go back to guns.
  11. Dave, Welcome to the Niagara club and MSW!! Glad you started a build- she looks fantastic! So 13 years and still going- sounds like my build (minus the kids, except I have dogs & cats to contend with). Keep it coming and good luck with the build!! -Rich
  12. Ken, I'm skipping the butts and I'm leaving it as it is. I thought about doing the butts, but I decided to stick with the simpler tapered look. I may do both butt-shift and tapered planks for the deck of my next build. Patrick, thanks for the compliments! Yeah, the guns are going to take a while, but I think I can handle it now (again, getting over that "intimidation" factor). I just gotta sit down and knock them out in batches/stages. I also need to try the Blacken-it for the gun hardware, deadeyes, and rings.
  13. Again, post-picture post: I think I'm making my seizings too long- maybe I only need 4-5 turns or so (don't know how many I have actually- should be counting those turns!!), especially since I'm trying to bring the size of stuff down to scale, like the blocks. More practice, and lots of stropping this week hopefully! (yes, I saw my deadeye on the carriage pulled out- I'll fix that.)
  14. Here are some pics of my rope that I made for the tackle and the breech lines. Each hank is about 6ft of homemade rope with the ropewalk.
  15. Sunday night update: Not too much progress this weekend, other than sanding and staining a few DB's. Reeved the tackle for 1 gun with the new, smaller blocks- here is one gun with the new blocks.
  16. Thanks Patrick! Yes, one certainly needs to get creative in this hobby. I'm glad you like my deck- I was somewhat intimidated by it since I wanted to do it right, and I'm pleased with the results. As for my deck-planking jig, I'll try to get some pics up later- that one took some practice at first, then really sped things up a lot!!
  17. Here's some of my block-holding/sanding jig... and half of my serving jib (holding blocks that have been sanded down, drying with stain).
  18. Ok... here's the pictures of the stained deck (have not added the weathered oak yet- just the golden chestnut stain).
  19. Mainstay, it's referring to the fellowship we Niagara builders share- there's not a specific club/forum, only our build logs and shared experiences on this ship. If you are building the Niagara (or any ship), start a log and join the fun!!
  20. Larry, Thanks for the compliment! I develop my processes as I go so I can speed things up a little and (most importantly) have repeatable results/quality. For sanding the blocks, I just came up with a jig- just some planks that make a trough that's as wide as the blocks, then load 20 or so in there, gently place in vice, and sand a side down. Flip bocks over and repeat. It's a lot easier than trying to hold w/ tweezers or fingers and sand 1 block at a time. . I promised some pics earlier, but the week has been busy. I'll work on getting some up tonight and show my deck and block sanding jig. . (Oh, and my deck plank tapering jig too!)
  21. Patrick, That's a good point. In order to keep things real and true to scale, I'll definitely have to check dimensions and the overall size of things. I was almost about to trust the kit's judgment and assumed that all parts were true, but it appears it isn't so. But that's part of the newbie learning curve, right? One thing I know I'll have to play with a bit in terms of size are the various rigging lines- it's a good thing I feel somewhat comfortable now in making my own rope (mostly using the line supplied in the kit, with the addition of some very thin thread for seizings and whatnot).
  22. I'm drooling Patrick!!! She's gorgeous- what a foxy lady!! Can't wait til I'm almost there!!
  23. Yep, I'm sanding down the DB's to bring them down to scale. After sanding I'll stain all blocks a dark brown for some uniformity of color. So now the "dance" is sand, strop, turn, seize, and reeve! Good times modeling!
  24. One thing I just noticed is that the DB's seem a bit too big for the scale- may try to shave them down a little. Also, the lines need a little more "taming," since they're a little stiff and don't lay as flat as I'd like.
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