Jack12477
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Photography looks good to me, Javlin. If you're not happy with the background, get some tri-fold presentation board, foam or card stock, from Michaels. It come in a variety of sizes, e.g., 36x48, and different colors, i recommend white as it will help fill in the shadows. -
Forgot to ask you, Craig, was the cart large enough for the haul of all the prizes etc ? 🙄 😉
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Congrats on your awards, Craig. Also for your raffle prizes.
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I don't think it will be big enough, Craig! 😉
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Correction: after reviewing my collection the Surface Dogs come with 4 dogs per set which is sufficient. But the Wonder Dog and Hold-Down only have 1 item per set, in practice two are needed so I recommend two sets of the Wonder Dog and Hold-Down.
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Thanks Gary. Yes the miniature worktable and accessories are great, well worth the purchase and useful on 1:1 projects as well . I would recommend getting two sets of Surface Dogs and two sets of Wonder Dogs. When I bought mine I quickly realized I needed two sets of each.
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Did I ruin my brush?
Jack12477 replied to MBerg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Make sure you clean the brush with soap/water/solvent as best you can before you wire brush it. The wire brush is used to remove any remaining paint build-up from the bristles and to straighten them. -
Did I ruin my brush?
Jack12477 replied to MBerg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
My son is a professional painter, when he cleans his brushes he also uses a wire brush to get the paint out of the bristles, brush from the handle straight towards the brush tip. Use the small brass brushes. The wire brush does not damage the bristles. You can also use Artists soap, it's like a saddle soap. See example below
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Beautiful! Fantastic color / photos
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Congratulations to everyone ! 🥳
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Yea, but that's cool ! 😎 Beautiful results Craig, very impressive 👏
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Thanks Alan ! Yes these miniature tools are proving to be very useful. Especially the 1:12 work table with the miniature clamps, stops, etc.
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And "the snail" continues along. Next up was the 3 decks (trestle trees) for each mast, Fore, Main and Mizzen. Once I figured out the drawing "codes", i.e., 219-220-221, 245-246-247, 269-270-271, on the same picture really meant, Fore, Main, Mizzen, I was able to cut all the parts to length, glue the subassembles together, square the ends of each subassembly with my Veritas Miniature Shooting Plan and Shooting board, and finally glue all the subassemblies together. After insuring everything was square I photocopied the deck templates to use to scribe the curvature and mask the holes for the upper rigging. Then I installed the balusters and railings. I also added the ring and supports to the lower part of the foremast, still have to construct the Main and Mizzen. Photos below: Squaring the subassemblies, assembling deck and squaring the ends Completed decks for Fore, Main and Mizzen Masts with railings The Veritas miniature work surface and Shooting Plane and Shooting Board (right hand plane) To be continued (with interruptions for yard work, raised bed vegetable planting, et al )
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Man, does that shine !
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Amazing model ! Fantastic detail ! Especially that California license plate. Nice touch.
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I'm curious Eric. How do you "sculpt" your rock faces/outcroppings? Carve by hand ? Use rubber molds like those available from Woodland Scenics? Will you be covering this in more detail in subsequent posts?
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Looking really good Eric! And I do remember the paper towels in runny plaster, very very messy. The plaster cloth is a great n improvement.
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I sort of deduced that from their appearance in your photos. They did look like L-girders. When I built mine I was surprised at how strong they were in terms of how much weight they can carry, yet be light enough to move the table around when needed. Your discussion of the history is most interesting.
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When I built my N scale layout, I used the L-girder design for the framework (you could screw everything, into the inverted leg of the L from below, such as the 1x3 cross members). For the top we used 3/8 inch plywood or sometimes 1/4 inch, glued to 3/4 (5/8 ??) Inch thick Homasote then the cork roadbed was tacked to the Homasote. Build a simple L-Girder
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Copy arrived in today’s mail. Thanks !
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Wow! Two years since I posted any work updates. Bet you all thought I quit. Almost did !😉 Got really bored and frustrated so I m stepped away for awhile 🙃 and of course life got in the way also. I built a few none ship models as a distraction during my hiatus. Now it's back to building the masts and doing the rigging. I finished the bowsprit. Photos follow. Next up is the 3 masts, I'm trying to decipher the vague and very sparse instructions. Everything is in 4 languages. The mast, spars, trees,, etc are a nice walnut wood. I swapping out the AL rope and most blocks for the @ChuckSyren rope and pear blocks I have in my stash. It looks so much better. Progress photos to date :
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Welcome, Steve ! I'm originally from Brighton, near Twelve Corners. I also got hooked on Tamiya 1:35 armour kits, have about 40 completed tanks.
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WZ-X by ccoyle - CardPlane - 1/33 - CARD
Jack12477 replied to ccoyle's topic in Completed non-ship models
I think you can get a USB attachable external CD drive, Chris. I have a USB attachable 3.5 inch floppy drive for all my old floppy disk, also one to attach an old hard drive. -
Creepy looking owl! What species is it ?
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Yea, I hate it when the software developers send out updates which change default settings and don't tell anyone. That's why my ThinkPad is still running Windows XP 😜 I got tired of replacing my flatbed photo scanners and Canon inkjet printers just because Gates decided to declare them obsolete and unsupported in his newest version of Windows.
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