Jack12477

Dr. Per,
 
You are correct.  The hobby market cutters are just not to a good level yet.  Hang onto your cash and buy what you need from a known good supplier, like Chuck. 

Mark, I am interested in the laser cutter but however I am very hesitant over the quality of this MM product.
As Chuck stated in another posting there is a huge difference between the machine he is using for his products vs. the items "we" (the common) like to use for our personal use.
400 dollars of laser machine is still a lot of money, this versus what you can get custom made from Chuck who has a higher quality machine with better tolerance.
I am looking forward to read more about your advances with the laser.
As of today, my money would go to Chuck.
He know his machine very well, while our trial and error will increase costs for a time.
Good luck my friend.
 
Edit from previous:
I don't know if I am wrong but I might have the cost of the machine wrong, as according to MM the price is $2000.00

Thanks Nigel.   I'm still working on the speed and the power along with the number of passes settings.  And you are right about the potential.  

Hi Mark,
 
Bringing up any optical based tool is tough and it is even harder when the customer service is poor. Your tests do show the promise the tool has to do some really detailed work.
 
Couple more thoughts in case they help.  Consider checking how level the stage is in the x  and y directions and also if the laser head is perpendicular. Any tilts could make finding a clean focus point across the piece more difficult. I also don't know how much adjustment you have to control the scan speed. Slowing the scan speed should allow the laser power to be dialed down and perhaps help reduce the charing. Sometimes slower translations speeds also help to reduce any vibrations back into the optics as well. Every little can help.
 
Cheering you on from afar... good luck!
 
Cheers!
 
Nigel.

I think it's a rotten shame their tech-support is non-existent, and after spending that much money on an item that you have to spend hours to get to work right? Sorry, but I'd be really tempted to take it back, and personally feed it to the sales-rep. Well, probably not, because I'd still want my money back at that point, but it's fun to fantasize. 
   I hope you get things tweaked so it functions alright for you Mark. Still I'd mark the "too late to send back day" on the calendar, just in case. Thanks for the review. I know I won't be getting any tech items, or power-tools from them for sure.

Thanks for the likes and comments, folks.    Here's the latest...
 
Well... my patience has run out with MM.  There will be no more tools for me bought from them.   If I can't fix any of the ones I've bought from them, it will be replaced by another manufacturer.   As I said previously, I sent an email (posted at the end of this post) on Sunday night.  5 days and no response.   I don't believe I was offensive, angry or mean. But no response, not even a "got your mail and we're looking into this" would have been acceptable. 
 
As for the tool in question... after discussion with the Admiral, she calmed me down and got me rational.  Rather than starting the whole process over, I'm hanging on to it.  I can upgrade when the laser tube dies to a larger power tube.   With what I'm using it for, it'll work.   I had to do mods to the mini-mill to get to work better and sometimes the devil you do know is better than the one you don't.
 
I'm not sure there really is a good solution to a hobby type cutter out there for what we do and under $3000 (US).  Or at least one that won't require a lot time and energy to set it up, climb up and over the learning curve, and get it properly tweaked.   This already has many of the mods that I'd have to source and go through anyway....  220 VAC power unit, for example.  I also know the weaknesses.  So I'll put my time and energy into resolving the issues I have left rather than starting over. 
 
Anyway... I won't recommend this tool to anyone because the tech support isn't there.  But if you do buy one, be forewarned.
 
Anyway, here's the email.... 
 
Hi,
I have a question and some observations on my LaserKnife.   Questions: 1)  Lenses... are there better lenses available or perhaps ones with different focal lengths?  I'll be cutting a variety of wood thicknesses from 1/64" up to possibly 1/4".  I've double and triple checked and cleaned the mirrors and I think the focus could be a bit better.   2) Is there a manual somewhere that has more detail on CorelLaser?  There's settings in there I have no idea what they are for.   3) The cooling water, is there a max temperature rise or a max temperature to watch out for?   Observations, 1)  The manual is a bit vague in areas like parts identification and mirror alignment.   2)  The lense in the cutting head seems to have been installed upside down.  It had the concave side up and the convex side down.  After Googling and reading, I find out that these should be the other way with the concave side down and the convex side up.  I got a finer cut when I did that.   Thank you. 

I have completed framing in the cabin walls and doors on the ship. Still to be done on this deck are the sail bin, the Brodie Stove, and the various accouterments for the cabins. I still need to do some research for the various storage rooms. Typically there would be one for each of the Carpenter, Gunner and, Boatswain. Since the Eagle was on a fresh water lake, there was no need to have large storage areas for water, however, food, armaments, and rigging were still required to run the ship.
 
 

Well I had some free time today and I worked on the ship steering mechanism. My first foray into working with the rigging and I learned a lot...
 
First I had fits getting the rope through the block eyelet - until I discovered how much beeswax helps that process. Tying the blocks was similarly challenging until I did a little research on this site and discovered that holding the block with a clothespin does the trick. I also learned that you need to think through the steps in setting up rigging, I tried threading the block eyelet once tied onto the boat and that just wasn't going to happen. So more backtracking.
 
I thought I was getting real ingenious by using a small clothespin to hold the rope tight in the block, keeping tension across the wheel, which I had wrapped the rope around three times. I also managed to tie the rope to the steering block eye nice and tight, but didn't consider the slack that would be added when I released the small clothespin - so now my whole system looks a little droopy. I'm hoping that's realistic to how this setup looked. I need to look for a picture to validate.
 
One last minor point of frustration. I had intentionally set the two pins I placed in the stantions a little off center to get the line up correct, and when I put the glue on and was rushing because we know how fast that glue cures - well I got it wrong and now it looks a little off-line. I'm going to try to fix that when my ship's wheel arrives.
 
I took a few more pics than normal because I wanted to capture the steps for myself as well as others that might be trying this for the first time as well. Definitely educational for me and hopefully for others.
 
 

Nice work Robb! It would seem to me that one side or the would have a little slack in the line anyway. Tight on one side would slacken the other side. In respect to planning ahead, I've been reading posts here on the site for over a year and a half, and if there's one thing to remember from that, it would be when you're planning steps, it's good to look ahead about 4 or 5 steps, or even on ahead to the next chapter, so what you're doing now, doesn't get in the way of what you need to do later. If that makes any sense. 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 2
 
In the last part, spacers were shown being glued to the midship bulkhead.  The spacers were cut from ¾” thick pine, ripped to a width equal to the distance between stations (even numbered/lettered frame lines) and the 9” plywood thickness.  These were then glued to the bulkheads in an arrangement as shown in the first picture – to provide a continuous hull surface for later planking.
 

 
The spacers in this picture were cut to a width of 55” – marked on one of the loose pieces.  Station spacing in this area is 64”.  Subtracting the 9” plywood thickness leaves 55”.  As mentioned before, 9” plywood was used because that is the siding of the integral toptimbers.
 
The excess spacer material was removed by cutting along the bulkhead as shown below.
 

 
This was then trimmed right to the line using a disk sander.
 
The thickness of the glued assembly was then measured and if necessary adjusted and/or leveled by sanding as shown below. 
 

 
In this picture the midship bulkhead assembly is being sanded.  It has spacers on both sides.  The spacers are always sized at the broader of the two adjoining bulkheads, so bulkheads fore and aft of this one are smaller.  All other bulkheads have spacers on only one side – the forward side on those forward of midship and the aft side on those aft of midship.  Trimming the second bulkhead on this frame is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the finished midship bulkhead trimmed to size with its adjacent partner – both ready to be erected.
 

 
In the next picture the midship bulkhead is being erected on the spine. 
 

 
The alignment methods are virtually identical to those used on the fully-framed version – squares set at the maximum breadth line on both sides and additional squares to hold it vertical and on the station line.  The only glue joint here is between the plywood and the spine.  Additional bulkheads will add the strength as they are installed.
 
This is very similar to the alignment of real frames at the original shipyards.  Using this method on these simple assemblies is a step toward erecting authentic model frames on more advanced models.  This was one of the purposes behind this process – and the entire bulkhead model.
 
Erection of additional frames will be described in the next parts.
 
Ed

Michael, this one is for you!  Isn't there a beer commercial with a very similar jingle?  These are my display cases.  They are made of mahogany left over from construction of the house.  There is a can light in each bay (I think you Canadians call them pot lights).  The glass floor of the upper tier allows light into the lower tier.  
 

 
Some of the occupants of my dockyard are Mantua's Peregrine Galley (the first POB ship I built), Mamoli's Roter Lowe, Amati's Prince (abandoned because of terrible plans), Sergal's Cutty Sark, Model Shipways' Fair American, the Lumberyard's Oneida and Mantua's Victory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Then there is my triplet of small ships, Scientific's Cutty (we're not even saying what decade that was built), Admiralty Model's cutter and Chuck's longboat.
 

 
Finally, there is a small display for my other hobby.  Those eggs take up a lot less room than a ship!
 

 
There is a running theme with these ships.  I discovered that I truly dislike rigging.  I keep telling myself that I will finish the rigging on the Cutty and Victory, especially the Victory, but so far it hasn't happened.  That is why I have converted to hull-only models.  Sorry about the photographer in one of the pics, those mirrors make photographs difficult.
 
 

Planking of the port side above the wales is now completed. Both sides have had an initial sanding with 180 grit.
 

 
In preparation for the stern planking the outside stern frames were thinned to 1/16" in thickness. I'm looking forward to getting started on the planking so I can tighten up this area which is still somewhat fragile.
 

when purchasing a piece of equipment such as this,  one does tend to wonder if it will pay for itself.   I hope that things get better and easier for you,  before your patience runs out.

Bob,
 
That first set is increadible, the second ... I wouldn't be able to do that either ... I have to admit that the finess and sharpness does diminish when age increases ... however, isn't it the joy and pleasure we find in building models which are the motivation to do so. To strive to do as best we can... I've seen my father drawing all his life, even in his last lucid moments, untill his death last Sunday morning ... he continued drawing because he loved to do it, even if that sharpness faded ...

It's update time again gents, only a small one this time though.
 
Thank-you one and all for your positive and very kind remarks, also for all who hit the like button.
 
The Mortar pit is now complete and fitted, given the two coats of WOP and the fit became really tight, fortunately a little persuasion and it went home ok.
 
The Hatch coamings are made from Redheart, not familiar with this wood and I don't think I like it very much, It's really easy to work with and I think is softer than Swiss Pear, another drawback is that the filings act very similar to Ebony in that they stain other wood, when sanding down the sandpaper mustn't be used for any other wood, having said all that the effect is very different. 
 
The Hatch Boards are made from Walnut and are so simple, the bend in the boards was formed by moulding them around the Hatch Coaming, you will see the method I used in the pictures, nothing startling there I can assure you.
 
Said Hatch is now complete and fixed onto the deck, the cross section has now been placed into a plastic carrier bag and put aside waiting for company.
 
My attention is currently focused on repairing my Barge which was damaged in the Museum, a log has yet to be set up but will be located in the Scratch Section, this log will be up and running in the next day or so.
 
Picture time
 
The completed Mortar Pit frame

 
Hatch Coaming

 
Old planks laid over the coaming and held down by an elastic band

 

 
The shape for the boards to follow

 
The four boards clamped in place

 
Completed Hatch including the lifting rings, they look a little on the heavy side.

 
Both Mortar Pit and Coaming fixed in position

 

 
So your up to date now guys, it may be a while before the next update.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Carl thanks for the encouragement and telling me my fingers still have magic.  Gerty, Lawrence and Nils thanks for the good words.  And to all my other friends, thanks.
 
When I mentioned the magic in my fingers, it was to say, I wish I had been building boats in my forties.  My Eye hand coordination was so much better then.  Let me show you.  Back then I was doing pysanky, a type of decorated Easter egg usually done by women in eastern Europe.  The eggs in the first picture were done about 1980 the second set were done in 2011. 
 
So I say, “What boats I could have made”. 
 
Sorry for venting, hopefully this will get rid of the, “Woe is me’s”.
 
Bob 
 
 
 

For those who have not had the pleasure of seeing O19 up close and personal, let me say, you have missed something extremely rare in life.... and I am not speaking so much of the amazing model we have seen come together before our eyes right here on MSW. 
 
The man who crafted this extreme labor of love is a true marvel of a very special class by himself. 
Within minutes after shaking his hand, one realizes this diminutive gentleman, so full of live, is the embodiment of what our unique art represents. 
Mr. Piet...."Pete".... is the real deal! 

Nenad, my deepest sympathies on the loss of your mother and wife. My prayers go with you.

Since interest has been shown in this tool by many including myself, here goes a hopefully, full review.  I will preface this by saying that this tool is NOT for everyone.   To make it clear:  if you are expecting out-of-box performance from this, stop reading and go do something else.  I fear this is going to be rather long winded....
 
Background
My scroll saw skills leave a lot to be desired and for repetitive items like knees, beams and even cutting small pieces for carving is an issue.  So rather than stand in front of a scroll saw for hours and end up tossing 30-50% of the pieces into the scrap box, I thought about a laser cutter.  The so-called “hobby lasers” seem appealing.  Reasonably low power requirements, low costs, and relatively smaller size appeals to me.
 
Research
The caveats that I read about Laser Cutters and followed in the research are: 
Use a company in the country you are in or will provide support to you. Use a company that has been in business for more than a couple of years. I’ve looked at the imported China Lasers (~$500 US) but have found much wrong with them in the reviews.  Extra costs of dealing with an import agent to get the unit out of customs and shipped to you, generally mediocre quality in the assembly, and then there’s the normal software that comes with the these products.  Also dealing with a seller in China leaves you high and dry without support.   I discovered two being “used” here locally.  One is not working and hasn’t from the time he got it a few months ago.  He’s in the process of replacing the PC board to be compatible with better software and fixing some damaged items like a broken laser tube.  The other, I saw it work, and tried my hand but the software (MoshiDraw) is incredibly bad.  The owner was running it on an XP PC as it wouldn’t run consistently in Win7 even in compatibility mode. 
 
I looked at another higher priced unit (~$4000 US base price with accessories adding up rapidly).  The unit was high quality, made in the US with some Chinese parts including the main board.  It used  LaserDraw software and from what I saw, the performance was adequate.  But as I was unable to sit down and try the woods we use, I can’t give a full report on it.  The owners use basswood and thin veneers for creating dollhouses, model railway buildings, etc.  The output seemed of good quality but again, it was not the woods or sizes we use.   My observation is that this is basically a hobby machine upgraded to being a production type.
 
The one I’m testing is the Micro-Mark brand (~$2000 US).  It comes with a 30 day refund guarantee which, if I determine this isn’t what will work for me, I’ll return it.   I read their claims that this machine is built to their specifications (http://www.micromark.com/html_pages/misc/the-micro-mark-difference.pdf) .  I know that some of us (myself included) have issues with certain practices which I won’t go into.  I will say that I won’t buy ripped off equipment.  This unit doesn’t appear ripped off but an upgraded Chinese unit.
 
I did not consider anything more powerful than 40W.  Maybe I should have, but there's also a cost factor that goes with that.
 
Pre-Order
The unit uses CorelLaser as its cutting software using an industry standard HP Plotter Driver and also Corel Draw.  I downloaded the manual and documentation from MM.  I also ordered a copy of CorelDraw X6 from Amazon.   CorelLaser works only with CorelDraw above version 13 so I bought a shrink wrapped, new-in-the-box program for $150 US.  I would suggest you do your homework on this.  X7, the latest from Corel is a subscription based program.  In other words, you pay every month for it.  I prefer to have a CD in my drawer just in case….
 
I spent a week or so refreshing myself on CorelDraw as the last time I used it was Version 5… yeah… been a few years.
 
Unpacking and Set-Up
I received this is 3 boxes, well packed in foam.   Unpacking is pretty straight forward.  I would suggest that the air pump and water pump NOT be removed from their bubble wrap as there is nothing on these items to indicate what they are.  I wish that MM had put a photo or two in the instruction manual to identify parts.
 
One thing that is needed is a GFI socket.  I’m using  a GFI adapter in case I wish at some future date, to move the cutter to a different place.
 
Set-up is pretty straight forward following the manual.  The hardest part was figuring out the exhaust setup without cutting a hole in the wall of the house.  Also, do NOT secure the exhaust unit to the cutter with tape.  Use #10 X 3/4” self-tapping screws.  There’s  bit a misfit between these parts and the tape will not hold it securely in place.  
 
Here's photos of the unit and all the accessories...

 
Testing Started
I used the factory settings and followed the instructions in the manual for the recommended passes and power.  Not a happy camper using boxwood.  The little nameplate is 1/8” thick boxwood.  Took  9 passes to cut.  Lots of charring.
 

 
I discovered the mirrors were off.  MM instructions are vague in the extreme and need some serious re-writing to be useful.   I Googled and eventually found the information I needed here:  http://dck40.blogspot.com/
Using other web sources, I discovered that the lens in the cutting head was upside down…  WTF!!!! This really irritated me.
 
After  spending a day going back and forth between all three mirrors and adjusting them, and then resetting the focus for the wood, here’s the next round.
 

 
I’m continuing to test and massage things.  This will take time.   I’m able to cut 3/16” boxwwod which requires multiple passes but as yet, not I’ve not tried ¼”  boxwood.
 
Overall Observations.
The learning curve on this machine is a vertical, straight line.  These machines are still in their infancy and not mature.  Documentation is extremely sparse although there are forums out there for laser cutters, getting to the information you need for a particular type or model is a bit overwhelming and I consider myself a knowledgeable Googler.
There is no guidance on power settings or cutting speed to cut various types and thicknesses of wood.  Serious experimentation is required.
 
This machine is finicky in that all mirrors have to be perfectly adjusted to make use of the power and they have to be kept clean.  It is big, and sometimes smelly.  It’s not a production machine and the bucket of cooling water will have to be watched.  Running at “high” power (no definition from anyone on this or on the max water temperature) will shorten the life of the laser bulb.  There is a focus issue and I believe it could cut with a thinner kerf.  I’m trying to talk with MM about this….
 
The nameplate, I couldn’t even begin to cut something that tiny on the scroll saw.  It’s now almost ready for carving.  I do need to tweak the drawing some more to get a bit better spacing.  The anchor stocks I’ve done,  would have taken maybe 30 minutes on the scroll saw.  Including drawing time, this took approximately 1 hour and no wasted/ruined pieces.  However, all 4 are exactly alike and the bolt holes are ready to be cleaned of char and the bolts installed.  No fiddling with the drill press, either.  I have about 8 other parts ready for cutting and will do them as I go.   The kerf size and charring are still an issue.
 
I’ll say it again, it’s not for everyone.  If you have the time and ability to Google and research and then  to fiddle with it and get it running correctly and then to keep it running, it might be ok for you.  The manuals are skimpy at best and a bit of creative Googling will need to be done to help sort things out.  There’s still settings in CorelLaser that I have no idea what they do.  There is an alternative to CorelLaser called LaserCut 5.3.  I haven’t tried it yet and the documentation on-line seems rather sparse from what I’ve seen.
 
Thicknesses of 3/16” and up are tricky to work with.  There’s no tables or inputs from MM on this and the web is all over the place on using these “hobby” cutters.  However, most folks who have reviewed similar machines are using basswood and thin woods.  Doll houses and RR accessories seem to be the major uses along with etching for various things like signs, pendants, etc.   I need to have a conversation with MM on the lens… I think it needs to be higher quality and damn it... there’s no excuse to have it installed upside down. 
 
Lastly, tech support.  I emailed them late on a Sunday night about some issues.  I'm still waiting for answer after 3 days… 
Since we’re talking tech support, it’s worthwhile to note that tech support hours are very limited… Monday through Friday, from 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm, EDT.
 
I asked tech support before I ordered about using an extender cable and the answer was a simple: not recommended.  The unit comes with a 9 foot USB cable so I had to seriously rearrange my workshop to get it closer to the computer.   I’m testing a USB powered extender cable so I don’t have cabling running across the floor where it can be stepped on.   Jury is out on this.
 
The short answer for all this is: I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are tech savvy, not just with computers but also can tolerate a large learning curve.  The quality of the cuts could be a lot better.  Overall, it might better that if this tool is something you have to have then spend about double the cash and get a higher powered, non-China built laser cutter with some tech support.  The BossLaser that Chuck uses runs about $5000 and has the higher power to cut thicker woods and is, I believe, also suitable as a production machine.
 
I'll continue to test, adjust, fiddle, and tweak for now... 

Hi All,
 
I'm not sure if this is exactly appropriate, but recently I received a few boxes of alcohol wipes from a relative who, shall we say, no longer needed them.
 
I find my self using them constantly to clean painted surfaces with smudge marks or finger prints, or on tools which got a bit of glue on them (especially Titebond and the like). For that matter, I use them to clean up anything. They don't seem to affect any of the surfaces I've used them on.
 

 
I got them for free, but checked and they are available for about 5 bucks for 200.
 
Best,
John

Just a word on soldering; patience is needed to let the iron get hot enough for the solder to flow. Most issues I have seen with cold joints is not allowing the iron to get hot enough. If one has a cold joint, add more flux and retry with the really hot iron.
 
I started to finish up capstan and thought I would show my humble effort at adding the top detail.
Here is the reference photo I found of it.

 
To add the top metal ring I started with a brass sheet piece .005" thick and covered it with a blue marker to see the scribed lines better. Drew two concentric circles the correct size. Then drilled a starter hole for the jeweler saw blade. Scribed a line through the center and then marked of 36 degrees with a compass from the first line. Then with a small compass marked off the 10 bolt head locations. Using a small center punch on a steel block I hit each location with a slight tap.

Here is a view of the bolt heads on the opposite side that will be the top good side when finished.

Small parts get hard to handle when sawing so I spray glued (3M 77) it to a scrap piece of wood as a carrier for handling.

Once the center was sawed out I cleaned the edge up with a needle file. Then I sawed out the outer edge and cleaned it up.

Here is the part ready to paint.

I hand painted a star on the top of the capstan the size of the inside diameter of the circle. If I had decal paper I might have made a decal; I figured that I could at least hand paint one quicker to keep going. I then CA'd the painted ring in place. The capstan will not be glued into the deck so if I decide later to rework the star.

 
I have also been busy with cleats, bits, eye bolts etc. Just a great deal of little items that are easier to add now than later.
 
 

She is finally finished.
It only took four years with major interruptions, to be sure.
 
After some minor repair work, adding the boats and making the mahogany base, I hoisted the flags and let her sails fill with our family room air.
             
 
One final touch will be a small brass plaque with the name and date mounted on a piece of the wood hopefully coming from our USS Constitution sailor friend. It will go inside the case in front of the bow.
 

that didn't take long!  Now I know how to finish mine properly.
Maury

Thanks George, Mark, Russell (you didn't have to wait long ) and Janos .
 
Ribs
 
I used the plug to form the 1/32" square ribs, once again using Tamiya tape to hold them in shape while they dried. The Tamiya tape holds onto the resin plug very well, and is easy to apply using the tape holder/cutter. The tape is 1/4" wide :
 

 
A couple of hair clips hold the rib in position whilst the glue dries :
 

 
The aftmost rib. The tops of the ribs will be trimmed when they are all fitted :
 

 
 Danny

You make that look so easy, Danny   And it came out looking great!