Jump to content
Welcome to our new sponsor - Portland Scale Ship Co.! Specializing in Scale model ship kits and building chapters for the HMS Winchelsea and other ships ×

hof00

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,655

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by hof00

  1. hof00
    Hi All, More "Channel" progress, sorry about that.... 🙂 Anyway, Channels/Chainplates pretty much complete, just a few "Tweaks," some tiny applications of CA and Paint. (I am pretty relieved to see the back end of these, soonish. (I also took the opportunity to clean up the Hull Plating.)) I am unsure of wots next, I thought I'd have a go at "Prototyping" the three Main Tops for Fairlead drilling. No matter what, there's plenty to do.... 🙂 Comments/critique always welcome. Cheers....HOF. Photos:
  2. hof00
    Hi All, Small update yup Channels again....😗 Main and Stern Lower Channels constructed and pinned on. Mainmast stepped temporarily to get angle of Chainplates worked out. (I "Notched" the Channels this afternoon, a couple of "Notches" need to be filled and moved slightly.) I decided to temporarily Step the other Masts to gauge if additional work is needed to strengthen the Mast "Steps." As it turns out, these will need some attention to make the Fore and Main a little more "Rigid." (Not today 🙂) Looks more like a Ship with the Masts on. (They are now removed.... 🙂) Most Chainplates, 62, constructed, only 10 to go. Cheers.... HOF. Photos:
  3. hof00
    Hi All, Fore Channels complete? (Maybe a paint touch-up here and there.) So, now I have done the Fore Channels, I feel a little more confident that I have an idea of what I want to achieve. The only take-away from this assembly is that I won't be using "Blackening" solution, it stained the Deadeyes a bit, paint is better for these, the Blackening does not like the solder, and the Deadeye Strop is gaining a good patina after a few days anyway. I guess I am o.k. with my work thus far. Next will be the Main Channels/Chainplates and I have been busy making a bunch of Chainplates. (Low impact work 🙂) You'll have to excuse my grubby fingerprints on the Plating; I'll polish the Hull once I have completed Channel/Chainplate works. 🙂 As Rick310 stated, the Chainplates blend in, yup, they do. Only the Camera Flash picks them out. That's me for the mo. Cheers.... HOF. Photos:
  4. hof00
    Thanks Rick.
  5. hof00
    Hi All, Another Channel/Chainplate update I am afraid. Started last night with the Port side utilizing my Channel "Spacer." So, with a modicum of success, this morning, I decided to de-construct the Starboard side. An additional pin in the center of the Lower Channel fixed the "Bowing" issue. Spacer inserted, Chainplates were rescued where possible, bent and pinned to the Hull. (I only had to make two additional Chainplates. 🙂) I also made a very simple Jig for the initial bend for the Lower Channel. I decided on an angle of 18' At least all Chainplates are now more consistent. I am now a bit happier with the Starboard side. Once Channel Caps are fitted and all painted it should look the part.... Tomorrow, I'll finish the Port Side, Fore Chainplates and have a think about attaching Channel Cap-strips. (1.5 X 1.5mm Walnut) Cheers....HOF. Photos:
  6. hof00
    Hi All, Small update: Starboard Fore Channels/Chainplates, (Raw), Pinned in place. A bit of a learning process for me. (I may redo these, well probably.... 🙂) Some takeouts: Lower Channel needs at least 3 pins along its length Slots for Chainplates need to be a tad deeper Spacer required between Channels to prevent bowing as Chainplates are installed Need a more accurate drilling/cutting method for Chainplates I need to make up some more Chainplates before having a go at the Fore Port side. Anyway, enough for the mo. Cheers.... HOF. Photos:
  7. hof00
    Hi Ian, That's a rather large Hull!! Several years ago, I remember a build Log for this. (Can't recall where, sorry.) Anyway, the builder ran out of Decking Planks/Material.... I guess be judicious with the "Waste." Cheers....HOF.
  8. hof00
    Thanks Rick.
  9. hof00
    Hi Rick, Et All, I have taken a few photos to hopefully illustrate the method to the madness.... 🙂 At this time, I am concentrating on manufacture of the Chainplates and have not as yet "Notched" the lower Channels, nor have I Blackened/Filed/Drilled/Tweaked the Chainplates, so, you will have to imagine them fixed in place under the Lower Channel. Yes, the Chainplates are long at the mo., this will give me something to hold while "Manipulating." A big advantage, the Deadeyes sit "Flat" on the Channel, no nasty gap and in line. The method seems to work, a bit of time but very cheap, the wire was harvested from a bit of heavy electrical flex that I have in my Garage. The solder is 3% Silver, 1% Copper and 96% Tin with a "No Clean" Flux Paste. (I just have to be careful not to "Flame" the Deadeye. 🙂) Cheers.... HOF. Photos:
  10. hof00
    Hi Rick, Thank you for your kind comments and advice, appreciated. 🙂 I have started my Chainplate manufacturing process, ("Prototyping"), and have rescued my already constructed Lower Channels. Quite correct, I could not live with the kit Chainplates, they just did not look correct at all. (I had pinned the Fore Starboard-Side kit Chainplates, no good at all.) I have viewed your Flying Fish build on more than one occasion to see how you have done the Chainplate/Channel construction. I am utilizing 0.6mm Copper wire to form both the Deadeye Strop and Chainplate, pinch the wire together around the Deadeye and draw the wire, (Straight), together to form the Chainplate and run solder along the joint. (Chainplate) The only downside is no articulated Deadeye strop. Thus far I have almost completed the Fore Chainplates. I decided to use Copper wire as it is much more malleable especially around 3.0mm Deadeyes. (I did experiment with 0.6mm annealed Brass wire.) So, that's the state of affairs at the mo. and I'll get some photos when I have something to show for my time. 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  11. hof00
    Hi All, Small update, no photos as yet. I have been struggling with the Chainplates for some time. I have decided to put the kit supplied parts in the "Too much trouble" basket and manufacture my own. This has the possibility of Lower Channels "Back in play" and this is what I am working towards.... (I am pleased that I kept these....) I have had many E-Mails with Daniel from Dusek Models to ascertain if he had replacements for Flying Cloud. (As it happens, he does, and they are an improvement in the form of Laser cut Aluminum.) I am still keeping my options open here, Daniel will review the Shipping cost in a couple of weeks but mentioned to me that the Shipping would probably be around 60.00 Euro. Hats' off to Daniel thus far for his efforts and Customer Service!! Tomorrow will be more "Experimenting" with Chainplates, and I'll post photos of development ideas in a few days. BTW All the best for everyone in 2026!! Cheers....HOF.
  12. hof00
    Hi Rob, Thank you very kindly for your comments, much appreciated. I'll go with what I am comfortable with and with what "Prototyping" shows me. Even though not 100% I am hopeful the finished result will be acceptable. 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  13. hof00
    Thanks Ron, I'm trying my best, my first at 1/96.... Tolerances are much "Tighter." 🙂 Yup, the "Table" has already proved its worth, edge drilling 1.5mm Lower Channels, even though they will not be used. Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  14. hof00
    Hi All, Lower Channel update.... I began by pinning the Fore Lower Channels to the Hull, easy enough. I then decided to make s Mock-Up, (Prototype), the Channels to fit the Chainplates. (I had already drawn this out....) As per my Drawing, the Chainplates were too short, esp. the Backstay Chainplates. Regarding the Backstay Chainplate with respect to the Lower Channels, the slot that I would have to cut in the Lower Channel to accept the Chainplate would leave about 1.5mm thickness where the Channel meets the Hull, far too thin. The kit utilizes a 2.0mm thick strip mounted on the Lower Rub Rail to simulate the Lower Channels. I now have to choose the way forward: Not really keen to construct/replace the Chainplates Lower Channels are not designed for this kit Not 100% accurate to leave Lower Channels off Photo, (On Box), looks just fine without Lower Channels Pushing ahead with Lower Channels risks breakages KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid Finally, what am I building this for? It is something that I enjoy, not a gift or presentation. My decision to omit the Lower Channels may upset some who are following this thread but that's just the way it is, constraints of the kit, engineering/design do not allow for modification. So, in conclusion, this model will be "Devoid" of Lower Channels I have tried and prototyped to install these items; I have to admit a small defeat.... With this attempt out of the way, I can concentrate on mounting/positioning Chainplates with only Upper Channels. In saying all of the Above, I will most probably install a 1.0mm strip on the lower Rub Rail where the Channel would have been, this will assist in Marking and positioning individual Chainplates and will be more in keeping to the kit design. Onward!! Many more challenges ahead.... 🙂 Cheers....HOF. Photos:
  15. hof00
    Hi Chap, Looking good!! I missed the scale, 1/48? I have been looking, just looking, at thr Revell 1/32 version, re-released this year. I'll be interested to see the final result. Cheers.... HOF.
  16. hof00
    Hi All, It's been a while since I last posted so here is a little progress. I am, at present, working on the Lower Channels. I have been thinking about how to approach these for some time. The solution that I have settled on, (Hope it works.... 🙂) Photocopy Channel parts from plans Paste to 1.50mm Ply Cut out parts, Scroll Saw Drill holes, (Edgewise), through Channel Pin to Hull Mark Chainplate positions Remove Channels from Hull Cut Chainplate locations Install Channels Install Chainplates Install Channel Capping strips Simple? If you have a look at #156 in the photos you can see how much the Channel deviates from the photocopy template. this is due to the changing shape of the Hull towards the Bow. (I used a Profile Guage for this. The other Channels, #157/#158 will be sanded to fit closer to the time. I eyeballed the fit of these, the photocopy template is not too bad. (I have made two of each Channel, in case I need to re-work something.) To facilitate Edge Drilling these components, I took the plunge and purchased a X Y Table and Clamping Vise. from Ali Express for NZD $142.00. (Inc shipping) This item is available from many different sites on the internet. The Table will also be useful for many other tasks, i.e. Main-Top Fairleads, etc., etc. (I have had a play at edge drilling the Channel material, its quick and easy. 🙂) Right, so that's where I am at the mo. Much more "Jiggery Pokery" to go Cheers.... HOF. Photos:
  17. hof00
    Hi Chap, Very nice work!! Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  18. hof00
    Thanks Rob.
  19. hof00
    Hi Peter, Thanks for that. Yup, you're 100% correct, "Eat the Elephant one bite at a time." 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  20. hof00
    Hi All, Small update: Today, I finished off the Sky-Sail Yards, (Royals completed last week.), that completes the full "Suite" of Spars inc. Boom and Gaff. (I hope that my work pays off.... As mentioned in a previous post, I wasn't 100% happy with my work. (At this juncture, "It is what it is." and it's time to move on with the build. 🙂)) I feel it's time to affix the last 3 Capstans and Mooring Bitts. After this small task, it will be time to work on Lower Channels and set up Shrouds/Chainplates, not something that I am looking forward to.... 🙂 Anyway, that's me for the mo. Cheers.... HOF. Photos:
  21. hof00
    Thanks Ian, I purchased some "Tiny" Black Glass beads, (NZD $3.00 for 100) (1.0mm)), I don't think that I'll be making Ribs for these at this scale. Possible I guess but not for me.... 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  22. hof00
    Hi Chap, Thanks for the feedback, appreciated! Many more "Challenges" ahead.... 🙂 BTW your first build is looking pretty sharp!! Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  23. hof00
    Thanks Ian, The Lower Yard Trusses are kit provided, Main and Top-Sail Yards. I should have got someone to cast some copies of these in Brass. The Castings provided are White Metal and very, very fragile until they were located and fixed, that is. (I managed to break a couple of the locating pins.) I was not happy with the way the plans/instructions fixed the Upper Yards, (Tied on), to the Masts so decided to make Parrel Jaws? to ride on the Masts. (I hope it works out ok.... 🙂) Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  24. hof00
    Hi All, Small update: More Yard work, this time the Topgallant yards are complete. Unsure if I am completely happy with my work thus far, (I don't think I'll ever be 100% satisfied though.... 🙂) If I had it over, I would be fixing the Blocks with annealed Brass wire. (I don't think I will be re-doing this, next time perhaps....) (I have, however, decided to use annealed Black wire for the Mast Block work So, a bit of a hybrid, Thread for the Yards/Boom/Gaff and wire for everything else.,) Anyway, next up the Royals followed by the Skysail Yards, six to go. I am hopeful that these won't take so long, the Block count is ever decreasing the further up the Yard and no Stunsail Booms to worry about, Nice!!🙂 Yards are painted, Jackstays installed on the Royals, no Jackstays on the Skysail Yards. I ordered a Contour Guage to assist with the Lower Channels, the Hull profile is completely different to the Upper Channels, Once the Channels are made, I will pin them to the Hull, mark and make the necessary slots for the Chainplates. Thanks to @Rick310 for the Flemish Horse idea. I have installed these on the Main and Mizzen Top-Sail Yards only, less work, less stress.... 🙂 That's me for the mo.... Cheers....HOF. Photos:
  25. hof00
    Thanks Jan, I think that sometimes I can't see the wood for the trees.... I do recall seeing this in Flying Fish instructions I downloaded years ago. I'll have a go once I have completed the remainder of the Flying Cloud Yards. The time spent on this task will give me more time to ponder my approach. Cheers and Regards, Harry.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...