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hof00

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Everything posted by hof00

  1. hof00
    @ClipperFan I guess, looking again at the plan, there are 24 Stanchions per side. To stop being lazy, I should represent these with something like 0.5 X 1.5mm strip wood? Does this sound viable at 1/96? Cheers.
  2. hof00
    Hi There, This diagram may help to explain.... These are the Stanchions that go from Deck to Pin Rail. Flying_Cloud_Bradner_hull-side.graffle (sobco.com) Trouble is, what do they actually look like? (Profile?) and exactly how many are there? 24 or 48 per side? Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  3. hof00
    Hi All, It's been a few weeks since my last update as I have been otherwise occupied with the first Hull Planking. Firstly, for anyone that may be thinking about building this kit, be very, very frugal with the material provided.... I ended up using my longer Planking offcuts to complete. (I feel that this will be the case for all subsequent material supplied, in fact, I know this to be the case.... 🙂 Anyway, enough griping about things.... I feel that there were a few errors on my behalf, (The "Operator"), prior to laying the Strakes, I ended up using filler to get good and smooth lines, most of the filler being sanded away, (A good thing), but I would have preferred not to use any filler at all. The attached photos show the Hull as it stands this morning, I have to pay a little more attention to the Stern to complete. I believe that the best way forward now is to continue with the second cover before I remove the Bulwark extensions to enable me to complete the Deck and Internal Bulwark planking. (I figure it is a good thing to have the Bulwark Extensions in situ while I ham handling the Hull so much.) I am thinking I will build the "Houses" next to give me a break from the Hull. 🙂 Cheers....HOF. Photos for your appraisal and critique.
  4. hof00
    Thank you Sir, The info that I would like to obtain, if you have access to it, are the Stanchions that are visible on the Deck Bulwarks. (You have been very kind in giving me the information that I asked for.... My apologies, my error.) Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  5. hof00
    Gentlemen, Thank you both for your continued interest, feedback and information, very much appreciated. I have a question for you both: Do you have a photo or similar of the "Internal" Bulwark Stanchions? I have Mr. Bouchers plans but they are not 100% clear. The first Hull Planking is pretty much complete with some fine sanding to do. I will also post some photos tomorrow of progress to date. Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  6. hof00
    Thank you, kindly Sir, for your extensive dissertation and images!! I will get to your attached article in a day or two. I have been away from the PC for a few days now, concentrating on the Flying Cloud 1st Planking. (The lines are really starting to show themselves. I should have a reasonable update in the next few days. Thank you once again for your information, much appreciated. Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  7. hof00
    Hi All, Small update. Although I haven't posted for a while, I have been reasonably busy on the Flying Cloud. I have put my Plate marker to one side for the mo. to concentrate on getting some work done on the Ship. Attached all Decks Faired Bulkheads First four rows of 1.5mm Lime Planking attached So, another "Gripe" with the kit supplied material, the Lime is extremely brittle, it does not want o bend easily and is very prone to fracturing, great care must be taken when handling the Hull. I am hopeful that once the Bulwarks and Hull have thier extra layers of Planking attached things will be a little more "Robust." 🙂 Anyway, I have chosen to use this material and it was a good "Win" to get some real progress done With regards to the remainder of the first cover, I think that all Planks will need to be tapered. (I think that will be starting tomorrow.) Cheers....HOF. Photos:
  8. hof00
    Hi Rob, A couple of photos of the Jig thingy.... It seems to work o.k. by dragging the Copper through the PE Wheels. Needs a couple of "Tweaks before I'm happy with it which I'll get to in the near future. The important thing for me was not to modify the A/L tool in any way. (I can remove the original tool with a gentle pull. Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  9. hof00
    Hi Rob, Thanks for that. Yup, the Plates marker is a good innovation, the only thing that I don't like about it is keeping it centered on the Copper Tape. At present I'm in the process of developing a Jig for just this purpose. withought altering/modifying the Marker in any way. 🙂 It's taken a bit of time to think about and assemble. I am hopeful that I'll be able to test my device tomorrow. I have a plan "B" and "C" if the Copper Tape is a "Fail." The Tape is 0.1mm thick and I think that double this will be much better in terms of Plate "Stiffness." (I'll make a Jig for this as well.... 🙂) Cheers and Regards, Harry. Once this is complete, I'll be fixing the Decks in place and fairing the Bulkheads.
  10. hof00
    Hi All, Small update for some small pieces.... 🙂 I have been busy although I have not posted for a while. Since my Pin Push tool did not arrive, I decided, (A few weeks ago now), to try and manufacture some of the kit components that I was not happy with, namely, Doors, Windows and Skylights. I have pretty much finished these, (Perhaps a wee "Mullion Tickle" here and there with a Needle File and, not to forget Glazing) I'm much happier with the wood frames as they are rather than painting them White as shown on the box top. The research information that I have is that the frames were Oak, I think that the Cherry Frames are a reasonable analogue.... There are eight Doors required and twenty-four Windows required, I Will shortly have made twelve Doors and around thirty Windows, I can choose the best ones.... 🙂 I glazed three of the Skylights for a test, (Not glued as yet), 0.2mm Acetate, Back side painted with Tamiya Clear Blue. I also purchased an Artesania Latina 17.0mm X 5.0mm Plates Marker, a bit fiddly to put together but seems to work o.k. A bit more practice with this tool and it should be o.k. (I tried to make a Guide-Rail Jig for this tool but the best results at the mo. are "Freehand.") Anyway, like the Windows, Doors, Etc. That's further down the track but needs to be done regardless. 🙂 In the next couple of days, the intention is to fix the Decks in place so that I can start to "Fair" the Bulkheads, I'm also looking forward to re-ordering a Pin Push tool. I am hopeful that this will arrive in time for Hull Planking. Cheers.... HOF. Photos:
  11. hof00
    Thanks John. Yup, I like the Color variation of the Deck, I think this will disappear after a light sand..... (I made a test piece, gave it a light sand and gave it a dose of Matt Vallejo Varnish, if you look hard, there is some very slight color variation NZ Post have lost my new Planking Nail Driver, so, in the interim, I'm working on the Doors/Skylights/Etc. Once I receive a "Nail Driver I can resume Bulkhead Fairing, Etc. Regarding Bulkhead thickness, they appear to be 2.5mm O/A with a 4.0mm wide Rail. Bulkhead Extensions removed "Post" external 1.5mm Planking complete. (Much like my Cutty Sark.) Anyway, I don't know everything at this stage.... 🙂 Advice and comments very much appreciated. Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  12. hof00
    Thanks Rick, I agree 100% with that!! 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  13. hof00
    Thanks John!! The Door Frames, Rail/Stiles are 1.0mm thick as measured off the plastic kit-supplied Doors. (You can imagine my disappointment to discover these Doors, (Porta), were plastic not Metal as described in the parts listing.... ☹️) The Mullions are pretty much the same, I do get what you are saying maybe 0.3mm different in section? I'll probably end up filing a slight Bevel on these. (I only need eight Doors that need to be 1.0mm thick so I should have a few "Spares" at my disposal. 🙂 Kit supplied Windows are 24 X Metal castings? The Frames/Mullions are 1.0mm in section all round. (I am thinking if I should make replacements for these as well, maybe....) Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  14. hof00
    Hi All, Small update: While I await the arrival of my new Nail Inserting device, (Lost somewhere within the NZ Postal system), I decided to have a go at making my own Deck House Doors. I first tried with 1.0 X 1.0mm Strip assembled around a "Plug." This proved very frustrating and a very poor result. I thought about the "Plug" a little more and decided to assemble a "Billet?" around a wooden Plug. This worked a lot better and once assembled the Doors could be individually sawn off the Billet. One problem with my first "Billet" was that the Grain was running lengthwise resulting in very, very delicate Door Frames. I assembled a new "Billet" this time with all "Billet" components, Grain running Widthwise. The initial couple of Door Frames that I cut off the "Billet" were much improved and easily handled, (And filed), without the Frames crumbling... 🙂 1.0mm Mahogany Sheet was utilized rather than Walnut as the Grain is a little more porous for Glue penetration reasons. I can now also choose some nicely contrasting wood for the bottom panel of the Door. (The Frames are supposed to be painted white, I really did not want to mask these up and the less plastic the better!! 🙂) I took some photos of the Door Frames next to the Kit offerings. O/A dimensions of the Door Frames, 7.0 X 17.5mm I'm sure that this method is not a new idea, but I thought to share regardless. Cheers....HOF. Photos:
  15. hof00
    Thanks, Rob/Rick, It will be good not to worry about Serving. Having a break from the Hull/Deck today, I decided to make myself a Jig for replacement Cabin Doors Frames. I don't like the plastic offerings. I guess we'll see how that goes.... 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  16. hof00
    Hi Rob, Many thanks for your input and ongoing interest in my efforts thus far. Yup, I agree wholeheartedly with your comments and realize that things might be well overscale. I do think that there will be many more "Issues" that I will discover further down the line.🙂 I have had a quick look at some of your models and I am in awe. I completed my 1st Clipper, Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark, (On this site), in 2013 after 6 1/2 years of weekend work. It came out o.k. I think, but the thought was that I can perhaps do better. (Now that I am pretty much retired, I can devote much more time to modelling.) So, in conclusion, I do not feel that you are "Nit Picking," far from it, I value the input and aways prefer that people give me constructive criticism, maybe a paradigm shift? Always a good thing. I also value your knowledge and experience that you bring to the table. Please continue to "Critique" my efforts, this is very welcome. I do have a question for you, its' a little way off, keeping an eye to the future, do you think Serving Shrouds, Etc. is appropriate at this scale? If so, what thickness of material would be appropriate for Serving? My thought is that normal sewing thread would be too "Heavy.' Thoughts? Kind Regards, Harry.
  17. hof00
    Thanks Rob and Johnny, The more I look, the more things I see that need attention, today's efforts included lining the edges of the Poop Deck and discovering that another Bulkhead lacked symmetry, I fixed these, but I have found yet another Bulkhead that need some attention...🙂 I am also considering edge treatment on the Focsal Deck as well. I am now reasonably happy with the Main and Poop Decks. Johnny, I hear you regarding the Bulwark thickness, the Bulwarks are 2.5mm thick O/A, outside Planking: 1.5 + 0.5mm, inside Planking:0.5mm. The Bulwark Main Rail is 4.0m wide. I have left the Deck Planking where it is to facilitate "Flush" trimming of the extensions post 1st cover Hull Planking. The advice is appreciated regardless thank you. Thats' me for the day.... 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  18. hof00
    Hi All, Small update: Deck Planking has reached a point that I can no longer continue this task until the Hull is planked. (Otherwise, I'll be "Painting myself into a corner." 🙂) Kit supplied Tanganika, not all that good, some material is very "Rough" and I do not think that there is enough material to Plank all three Decks. I found some Billings Tanganika, (BL 1024), in my stock so have employed this as well. (You can see the random color variations; I think it looks not too bad.) Caulking is by way of a 6B pencil, and all attached with dilute PVA. I'm not too keen on sanding the Tanganika but I just think that I may have to, once the Decks are complete of course. I will tidy up around the hole where the Main House will sit. I guess that it will very soon be time to affix the Decks and start Fairing the Bulkheads.... I will have a think on the best approach to this. Cheers.... HOF. Photos:
  19. hof00
    Hi Chap, I have used a Four Butt Shift. (This is probably a "Continental" pattern that I used on the Cutty Sark, as described by Mr. Longridge.) The Shift is as follows: 5 - 2 - 4 -1 - 3 Working outwards, each side from the King Plank The longest Plank, "5" is 60.0mm (Each # is a 12.0mm increment.) I don't know if this "Shift" was ever used on American Clippers, but I find the pattern "Interesting" to say the least.... 🙂 (It is also quite time consuming.) I have had a good couple of days now working on the Main Deck which I hope to complete tomorrow, (As far as I want to go, that is, being mindful that I have to "Pin" the False Deck to Bulwarks and Bulwark extensions have to be trimmed off "Post" Planking the Hull. At this stage Deck Planking is looking to be about 2/3 the width of the Hull.) I'll hopefully get some photos tomorrow. Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  20. hof00
    Hi Chap, Yup, Fairing the Bulkheads something I am not an "Expert" at either. I will make myself a nice sanding block and affix sandpaper to it, I might try Aluminum Oxide this time around as it does not clog. I'll be sure to really take my time, the good thing about Clippers, Midships don't need too much fairing, more Bow/Stern. I'll get some more Deck Planking down tomorrow before I think about attaching the False Decks prior to Fairing. Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  21. hof00
    Thanks for that Rob. The hull "Skeleton" is not too bad. Yup, fairing the Bulkheads will be interesting, I believe slow.... 🙂 Had a play with the Decking material today and have decided on a four Butt Shift. I intend to start this tomorrow with the Main Deck but I will only be planking about 1/3 of the Deck from the center out each side. This will leave enough room for me to pin around the perimeter before fairing the Bulkheads/Planking the Hull and trimming off the Bulkhead extensions once the Hull is Planked. That's the plan anyway.... Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  22. hof00
    Hi All, Small update: Completed Deck width repair issues Triple checked overall Hull alignment All Decks look and fit much better. Port Side, Bulkhead #7 out of symmetry by 0.5mm (Mid Bulkhead) to 1.0mm (Bottom Bulkhead. Two laminations 0.5mm X 4.0mm glued and faired into bulkhead. Much better, I could see the discrepancy, it was really bugging me.... 🙂 (Planking Strake Port and Starboard to double check and all seems o.k.) So, I don't know if I'll do too much more today. Things to do next: Bow "Filler Blocks "Play" with Deck Planking - "Off Ship" Cheers....HOF. Photos:
  23. hof00
    Hi Wawona, Many thanks for looking in and your advice, much appreciated. I too was surprised at the issues I am faced with, no matter, just something to work through..... 🙂 Yup, I hear you regarding warped Keel/etc. (I have been very mindful of issues like these. I am pretty confident that things are "True." I did contemplate filler blocks and have attempted these a few years ago but was not a fan. Tomorrow, I'll get some photos loaded inc. a couple of the Hull structure I also hope to complete the Deck "Errors" and have a play with the Tanginika Decking material to work out Butt shifts and what medium would look best for Caulking. (Pencil/Sharpie) Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  24. hof00
    Thanks Rick, Nice to realize I'm not going insane.... 🙂 This build really gets me thinking. Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  25. hof00
    Many thanks Chap. Small update: Had a couple of days pondering things, my major concern was why the False Deck reach edges of the Bulkheads, widthwise. (If you look closely at the photos above, you might be able to see this.) My thought is that if not corrected it would seriously compromise fairing of the Bulkheads. Measured the width of the Deck at various points and it matches the part drawing Bulkheads not in error, all really well aligned, etc. (While I pondered, I decided to complete the Mast Steps.) I came to the realization that I was certainly not going to adjust Bulkhead width, so I resolved to add some Strip wood on the Deck between Bulkhead positions. The required width ranges from 0.5mm to 2.0mm depending on how far forward the Deck position is. (Strips are 1.5mm in thickness to match False Deck material.) So far, a much better result. (There are some positions that may require further investigation. 🙂) This kit is certainly not a Laser cut offering!! I'll hopefully get some photos tomorrow. Cheers....HOF.

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