hof00

Hi All,
Update:
 
Moving on with the build....
Bowsprit, Chain Stays and Shrouds installed. (I must thank @rwiederrich once again for his input and photos, assisting with placement of Shroud/Stay termination points on the Hull..) (Kit plans were very confusing and not at all logical.)
 
This took me two attempts, the first I just could not live with. The Rake of the Bowsprit/Jibboom was not in any way enough.
I removed everything and started over, reaming out the Bowsprit mounting hole with a rotary tool.
Second attempt I think much improved. ((The only downside, my grubby fingers on the Copper, not a huge issue, another polish will fix this.
I have not quite completed this, I have left the Deadeye Lanyards loose at the mo. to enable further tensioning and Jibboom Guys are yet to be installed. 
 
I can now continue with installing the remainder of various Blocks/Eyebolts on the Deck followed by the remainder of Deck Furniture.
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 
 

Hi All,
Update:
 
Moving on with the build....
Bowsprit, Chain Stays and Shrouds installed. (I must thank @rwiederrich once again for his input and photos, assisting with placement of Shroud/Stay termination points on the Hull..) (Kit plans were very confusing and not at all logical.)
 
This took me two attempts, the first I just could not live with. The Rake of the Bowsprit/Jibboom was not in any way enough.
I removed everything and started over, reaming out the Bowsprit mounting hole with a rotary tool.
Second attempt I think much improved. ((The only downside, my grubby fingers on the Copper, not a huge issue, another polish will fix this.
I have not quite completed this, I have left the Deadeye Lanyards loose at the mo. to enable further tensioning and Jibboom Guys are yet to be installed. 
 
I can now continue with installing the remainder of various Blocks/Eyebolts on the Deck followed by the remainder of Deck Furniture.
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 
 

Nice job on the bowsprit rigging!
Rick

Hi All,
Update:
 
Moving on with the build....
Bowsprit, Chain Stays and Shrouds installed. (I must thank @rwiederrich once again for his input and photos, assisting with placement of Shroud/Stay termination points on the Hull..) (Kit plans were very confusing and not at all logical.)
 
This took me two attempts, the first I just could not live with. The Rake of the Bowsprit/Jibboom was not in any way enough.
I removed everything and started over, reaming out the Bowsprit mounting hole with a rotary tool.
Second attempt I think much improved. ((The only downside, my grubby fingers on the Copper, not a huge issue, another polish will fix this.
I have not quite completed this, I have left the Deadeye Lanyards loose at the mo. to enable further tensioning and Jibboom Guys are yet to be installed. 
 
I can now continue with installing the remainder of various Blocks/Eyebolts on the Deck followed by the remainder of Deck Furniture.
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 
 

The Cobra Coupe is almost done, what a relief. 
Last steps were adding the exhaust sidepipes, adding the wheels, mounting the wiper and also doing a lot of touch up work. The exhausts were fiddly to attach, but again, clever design by MFH helped a lot and with a little wiggling they snapped in place, without breaking the manifolds loose, which would have been very bad.
The wheels were a joy to assemble and easy to attach with their turned and threaded aluminum axles and fitting nuts. The nuts also received the three winged securing nuts and a tiny PE logo in the middle.
The wiper was a multi part affair, made from cast white metal and several bended PE parts. There are only a few parts missing now, which I hope to find during cleaning the bench.
Last and most dreaded was the assembly of the hood. I cut the hinges and was only able to close the hood perfectly with a tiny bit of force. I added two tiny aluminum rivets with 0,5 mm diameter to secure the hood in it´s appropriate place, phew, done .
Some outdoor pics will follow later, when the sun is shining and all the touch ups are done.

























Cheers Rob

The usual robust framing in a Halinski kit, this time for the aft fuselage. The tail wheel well includes a piece with the interior color.
 

 
And now for a bit of news: This build will be going on a temporary hiatus. I know I already have another kit on hiatus for this build, so I guess that makes this a hiatus²? 🤔 Anyways, I will be building WAK's SBLim-2A, which shouldn't take too long to build (hopefully). A build log will be created for that shortly.
 

 
Cheers!

A few more additions: finished the ash / cinder box subassembly that also supports the rear portion of the boiler; completed basic framing of the tender.

Now the size of this model is starting to reveal itself! The way it is currently sitting gives a length of 26.5"; the advertised length of the completed model is 720mm = 28.35".

Bell and bell housing mounted.  The color guidance in the manuals would have the bell housing the same beige color as the pistons, but I wanted to match the nice brass bell and brass axle, so I painted the housing gold and it all came out looking as good as I'd hoped.
 
Regards,
David

The engine got a bad hair day with the tubing. I used the supplied vinyl tube, albeit it may be a bit on the thick side, but I want a relatively quick build and not hassle with preparing all the connectors with tiny brass rods. Not much of it will be visible, anyway. The frame was sprayed with Tamiya LP gloss black, which again was perfect with it´s shiny finish. The light brown "things" might be capacitors, if I´m not wrong, which will be connected with the spark plug wires.
The footrests are made from turned aluminum and are supplied with the original kit, nice touch, Tamiya.


 
Cheers Rob

I started with the engine and I have to say, this kit is absolutely fantastic, even by Tamiya´s standards. I built their big F4-U and the 1/48 P-38, which were excellent kits, but the Honda is even better. 
The engine is very complex, but so well engineered and the parts are fitting perfectly. The cooling ribs are a piece of art and are only possible to be casted in plastic, as there are several thin parts, which get stacked onto each other, genius.
I used Extreme Metal colors for the engine, matte aluminum for the block, titanium for the oil pan and other parts and a mix from titanium and copper for the carburetors. The air funnels are turned aluminum and the clutch consists from PE clutch discs and a pre fabricated metal cage.
I used a brown panel liner for accentuation and painted all the screwheads with silver.











Cheers Rob

 

I discovered that I am bad at build logs. Once I get going, I forget to take photos and post. I am 95% complete now and all I have is the finished product. Going to post this anyway. I'll try to do better on the next one. 

The building of the tracks was as frustrating as I expected and the build very nearly came to an as a result. I spent every day of the last week trying to get the individual links assembled.
The links are small and don’t have any features that align the subsequent link and the width of the drive wheels and sprockets are almost too wide so setting the links on the rims is a challenge. Oh, and the teeth in the sprockets are too fine for the part of the track that engages. 

I tried making up sections of three or four pieces glued onto a small piece of tape and them forming them around the wheels. I think the concept might have been good but the links came off the tape at the slightest provocation so I went back to adding each link individually. Then I found that adjusting the next link invariably disturbed the previous link and it all had to be done over again. Eventually I resigned myself to adding two at each end and then going off for a cup of tea, a fig roll and a chapter of the current Bernie Gunther novel.
The results could be better in places but I think this is a reasonable compromise with my sanity.
The tracks have been dry brushed with dark steel and a black oil wash has been applied to the tracks and the lower hull.



And suddenly thinks could leap forward. I added the upper hull and then the turret. The turret is a very stiff fit and I don’t want to try to add it once all the fiddle PE is on.
 additional frontal armor is added and several of the lockers.
ive tried to bring out some of the brown oxide primer by lightly sanding wear spots and I also used a fiberglass pen / eraser. So far I think it works but I may need to work on it further.


Well, it’s great to be away from those track pieces, suddenly the kit is fun again.
 Thanks for looking in, for the likes and theencouraging comments 
Alan
 
 
 

The wing and fuselage have been joined, and the first of the two wing fillets has been added. There's a bit of a goof on the fillet where I had to make a repair after inadvertently rubbing some of the printed color off the part. I'm going to say that this is where some Japanese technicians applied Bondo on the original aircraft.
 

 

 
In the meantime, look what came in the mail!
 
WAK's 1/100 Brig Badger designed by our friend Tomek of Seahorse models.

 
A 2-for-1 special edition from Shipyard of a Swedish Yacht and the schooner Berbice.

 
And the very odd US Navy one-off USS Vesuvius armed with "dynamite guns." This one is from Orel.

 
I purchased these kits from a very special acquaintance of mine, David Okamura. David and I were members together of the Ship Modelers Association many moons ago, and he's the guy who introduced me to the amazing world of card modeling, so you can blame him for all of the card subjects I've dropped here at the forum.
 
Cheers!

Here is an update on the modification of part M20. This 3D-printed part has been painted, and I have added two 4 mm diameter brass pulleys.
 

After researching alternatives, I found a suitable pulley system from Amati. The Amati pulleys feature a frame made of photo-etched brass, with both the pulley wheel and the axis also crafted from brass. However, the overall dimensions of these pulleys were slightly larger than the Artesania ones, requiring some modifications to fit properly within the wing's designated space.
 


 
One key issue was the diameter of the brass pulley wheels. The stock Amati pulleys come with a 6 mm diameter wheel, which was too large for my needs. To resolve this, I replaced them with 5 mm diameter pulleys, ensuring a better fit while maintaining full functionality.
 

 
Here is the new pulley in place in the wing.
 

 

The cylinder side cladding has been added, as well as a platform in front of the cylinders. Here's what the subassembly looks like along with the boiler and cab:

Finally found a part that needed some more serious modification! The small brass sheets on the top of the cylinder sides were approximately 4mm too high (the dimension of the gap that is left between the two cylinder side pieces). After attaching the smaller pieces, a mill file took off the excess material with not much effort.

I have started another little 1/48 seeing space is starting to run out the Meng Me-410 with the only add-ons being the Quintas Interior.The fit thus far has been quite Nice I have even placed the copit and gunner section within the fuselage halves fit looks excellent.The kit also supplies both engines and look like they might be pretty good for 1/48 sadly I will properly close those up once built.I also have the Revell 1/48 in the stash to which I order my mask for it when I ordered this one's mask.Pics of work done thus far....

good evening
nice to be back posting daily, now need to catch up on members logs, and two other Forums i post too
 
Another Balcony
 top is the kit, and my version

kit railings taken apart to shorten them by 10mm

in German grey and fitted in position

 
 

I’ve been a bit dilatory with the updates and actually the build has been pretty slow thanks to intrusions by real life. After finishing the undercarriage everything got a coat of MiG One Shot iron oxide (brown) primer.

The color schemes show what I assume is a winter scheme in white with some brown creeping through in places. I rather like it and thought I would give it a try. I added several misted coats of Tamiya Flat White and was fairly happy with the results.

it’s a bit paler in real life but I’m starting to think another coat might be a good idea. I’m scared of getting a dead white result though.
Next up was the tyres on the road wheels. I had great hopes of the Dspiae circle cutter but I abandoned it in favor of the old circle template to make the masks for the wheels 


The Dspiae cutter worked flawlessly on a piece of copier paper but tore up about 75% of my attempts with masking tape. I think it’s my fault for not getting the right tension on the cutting blade, it’s probably fiddle with thin material like masking tape. I should have tried painters tape- next time.
 

The tyres were sprayed with Mig Rubber black which is a grey in reality but I think it works and then the running gear was assembled.

And that brings us to the next significant challenge, the tracks! The sprue has all the parts needed for one side. I’m not sure whether to try to build the tracks off the model or assemble them in place. 
Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments.
Alan
 
 

Just remember....there are no photos of Flying cloud....just models and speculation.  Duncan McLean describes her hull and deck furniture the best.....however.  The photos I provided of Glory of the Seas...McKay's last clipper
Must be your best option.  I cannot assume he would have done things differently.  These images are *EVIDENCE*.
 
Will you be correcting the kits cutwater and stem to replicate as she was originally built.  Utilizing McKay's secret *Naval Hood* design? Contemporary paintings and models clearly get her bow wrong...simply sticking the figurehead on the stem.  This photograph of Glory of the Seas....depicts McKay's famous *Naval Hood*.  Note the location of the figurehead...on the Hood under the bowsprit!
 
Drawing by Clipperfan.
Rob
 

Before skinning the wings, the landing gear bays must first be added.
 

 
Then the main skin is added. I don't glue the entire thing at once -- I tack the center section first to get everything aligned, then work around each half a bit at a time. The fit has been super tight, but good.
 

 
You don't get to see the bottom yet, because I still need to do the seams around the gear bays.
 
Cheers!

Moving on to the wings. The wing framing is built around a single main spar. Wicking CA into it seemed sensible.
 

 
And here is the finished framing.
 

 
The kit includes optional parts to show the model with flaps deployed, but since flaps typically aren't deployed while an aircraft is on the ground, I will be displaying them raised. And besides, adding the flaps adds a large number of fiddly parts.
 
Here, the main wing skins have been shaped and trial-fitted. Still work to do before they get glued on.
 

Nice boiler and engine control detail on the inside of the cab.  The perspective for one of the parts is off in the drawings, so you have to hand fit some things.
 
Regards,
David

Taking a little break from my 'main project' - the Santos-Dumont No18 Hydroplane. It is not cooperating currently, so best to leave it alone for a few days. This is one of the reasons that I like to have several modeling projects going on simultaneously - always something else to do and a chance to step aside if needed.
 
Anyway, over the past couple of days, I've been cleaning up and getting the brass cladding onto the cab. Here is the photo-etch / brass sheets provided for the cab:
 
I've had little experience with photo-etched parts, but these seem to be nice. The front and side pieces fit and went on well:

The semi-circular pieces need to be bent to provide front window visors. The main reason that I've included this picture is to note the 3 small protrusions on the flat side of the visor pieces. After detaching the two parts from there sprues, I needed to remind myself not to file them off when smoothing the sprue attachment locations even though they don't look a lot different from where the pieces were cut out. The three protrusions register and fit into the main front brass sheet. In the first picture of this post you can see the corresponding three small slots near the top of the window cutout. 
 
The curvature was massaged into the roof brass sheet and then the underside was planked with strip wood before being attached to the cab assembly. The instructions basically tell you to apply glue and hold the roof in place until the glue sticks. I don't think I could pull that off! Instead, I clamped the roof in place without glue - even though the roof is cut to the correct dimensions, this took me several trials to get it exactly where it needed to be. I then put on the rubber bands to pull the brass to the formers and the edges of the cab. Thinned white glue was brushed at the joints between the three curved formers and the roof. I'm going to let that dry through the night and tomorrow I'll run a bead of CA along the brass-to-brass junctions. I might not need the one along the front, but the ones where the roof meet the sides seem to be important.

I have nearly finished the cab exterior. There still are 4 hook (?) castings that go on the roof - I do  not know what their function is; anyway I seem to have been supplied with just 3 of them. I'm not sure it is worth the time to contact OcCre about this as they look fairly easy to fabricate from scrap material. Something to do another day! 
 
So here is the cab sitting up against the boiler. They don't get attached together until much later in the build - but it is fun to see them together.

Only other note is that the grab bars on the side of the cab and the corresponding wires forming the aft side of the rear cab windows have been made with piano wire instead of the very soft brass wire supplied in the kit.