Jump to content

JSGerson

NRG Member
  • Posts

    2,383
  • Joined

  • Last visited

6 Followers

About JSGerson

  • Birthday 11/04/1946

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aiken, South Carolina

Recent Profile Visitors

3,832 profile views
  1. Excellent research on the gun carriages to obtain authenticity for your model. It is for the reasons you encountered in the your quote above that use the hardwood, boxwood, for any wood component that requires precise edges. It may be a bit more expensive and not as readily available in hobby shops (but certainty available on-line), but is well worth it. If you have read my log closely, I indicated when and why I switched woods. Typically, if the wood is to be unpainted, stained, or I need those sharp edges even if painted, I'll use boxwood. In my Rattlesnake model, I used different color woods in lieu of paint (except for black. Ebony was called for but did I used paint for reasons of availability, health (saw dust not healthy), and resistance to bending). Jon
  2. See, there is an advantage for going slow, now I got you to show me how it's done. Beautiful work on the stanchions and fife rails. Now if I can just set up my Dremel drill stand so it can perform this feat when the time comes. Jon
  3. Peter: As tricky as that companion way framework was, I did enjoy working it out. It was a nice puzzle. If I had access to the printed versions, I might have giving up and surrendered to the temptation to using a manufactured part, and where is the fun in that? Looking closely at my work, there were a lot of things that weren't as precise as I would have liked. Hopefully, I will do better this next time around. Unegawahya: I am just starting to work on the next canopy and feel much more confident, however I do plan on leaving one companionway closed with the grating on, and the canopy frames off. just to show the difference. The concept is relatively simply, but the execution can be tedious and delicate. Jon
  4. Take a look at Jfinan's BJ build starting at Post 60, to help clarify the gratings for you. Jon
  5. Peter, I still haven't found out who made those printed versions we saw earlier. If I do, I'll let you know. Jon
  6. You made great progress especially on the windows openings. The window frames provided by the kit are not true to shape as they are distorted based on the foreshortened view from the side of the ship. This is why most of us had a problem using them and resorting to trying to fabricating them. I had so-so results. Looking forward to your future posts. One minor note, I appears your port holes are a little proud of the hull. They should be flush to the hull with only their "eyebrows" protruding. But I'm a detail nitpicker and unless one is aware of this fact nobody will notice or care. Jon
  7. Thanks for the praise guys, now I have have to do it again, & again, & again, & again and be consistent about it.😬 Jon
  8. Attaching the “spider” to the stanchions went smoother than I had expected. The legs of the “spider” were trimmed and be approximately even with each other. Then a brass bead was added to each support and inserted into a stanchion, moving around the hatchway one by one in turn. The last support (unpaired) was cut to size from the “0.020” brass rod and added to complete the canopy. It’s not perfect, a little out of scale, and maybe a tad crooked, but it’s done. This one assembly took almost two months to complete. Now that I know what to do, hopefully the remaining four frames will go a little easier and quicker…maybe.
  9. A 3/32” hole was drill into each of the two bending jigs to position the canopy hub. The canopy supports were easily bent which created a brass “spider.” Note, the 7th support remains to be fabricated.
  10. The assembly was cut off from the working “handle,” the ornamental top was trimmed, and the ornamental brass bead was glued to the bottom stem. The second photo shows assembly lying on the hatchway.
  11. To complete the mechanical hub structure, a locking ring was cut from the 1/8ӯ tube and fitted over the slots converting the slots into holes and locking the supports to the hub.
  12. A length of 2 3/8” 0.020” brass rod was cut and bent so that one leg was 1” and the other 1 3/8” for the two supports lengths of the frames. This is a bit more than was needed, but it is easier to cut off excess than extend a short leg. Three pairs or 6 supports were created, however, this canopy required 7 supports. The last support (non-pair) was planned to be added once the canopy was assembled. At that point the seventh support will slide into the remaining opening in the hub and be glued into place. A length of 1/16”Ø brass tube was inserted into the hub assembly as a “working” handle. As each pair of supports was added to the hub, it was secured by CA glue.
  13. The end of the 1/8” tube was sawed off, producing a 1/8”Ø “crown” shaped component. Next, a slice of 3/32” tube was cut creating the seat ring, which was inserted into the bottom of the “crown.” Inside of that, a length of 1/16” tube was inserted creating the inner wall and axial of the hub assembly. Following the plan, additional pieces were added to create the hub.
×
×
  • Create New...