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JSGerson

NRG Member
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About JSGerson

  • Birthday 11/04/1946

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aiken, South Carolina

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  1. Just found your build today. Wow, I did not know how challenging working with a solid hull was. I am building the Model Shipways version styled to the 2017 restoration with a scratch built gun deck. I'm one of the slower builders as I have been at it for 8 years and am still working on the hull. I'm just beginning the spar deck. You have a wonderful group of active Conny builders at your disposal should you require assistance. Like you, I live in South Carolina about 75 miles south of you. I'll be looking forward to your future posts. Jon
  2. That looks like your standard ready for battle setup: the gun is pull through the gun port, the tackle is loose, and not coiled. Jon
  3. First off, I'm not nautical expert, have no military experience (except army ROTC), let alone any naval experience. What I know is from model builders I've followed on various sites and books. So my two cents: As near as I understand it, if the guns are rigged for sea voyage but not battle, the tackle and guns are rigged fast so as to not move or be in the way of the sailor's activities, the gun is pulled up to the bulwark and the gun port is closed and the loose ends of tackle are made snug against the guns. When the guns ae on display for the public or inspection, the guns are pulled through the open gun ports and the loose rope may be coiled "pretty" or remain snug to the gun. If the guns are posed "ready for battle," everything is loose so the gun can recoil freely and the tackle can be manned for loading and pulling back through the gun port. In other words, it all depends on how you want your model to look. Jon
  4. I would never have thought of using fishhooks to create eyebolts; it's a great idea. You did a great job especially at your smaller scale. I'm curious, did the BJ kit provide a cathead face sculpture for the end of the cathead? I didn't see you address this item. If BJ didn't and you can't fabricate one, check online to see if you can buy something. As a last resort, you could just paint the flat end with gold paint. At a foot away, I don't think many would even notice it's a flat surface. Jon
  5. Your canopy netting is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship. Did you mention anywhere what material you used for the the actual netting? In the past when I needed netting, I used Tulle, but that does not look like what you used. Your netting has more realistic square openings. Any chance you remember what you used and where you got it? Jon
  6. I used an 1/32" eyebolt for than and skipped half cleat thing on the top as well as too small to fabricate. Jon
  7. Don't forget the other two photos I sent of the aft side of the cathead which shows additional hardware. Jon
  8. This what I wrote when I installed them on my model. Here are some pictures that might help Jon
  9. I loved the detail you put into your description and images of how and why you did what you did. This was not easy by any means, and I admire your skills to pull this off. My hat is off to you!!! Jon
  10. Not the easiest component to construct, but you did it well. BTW, don't forget to complete the hawsers on the port side. Just something I noticed in the last photo. Jon
  11. I had a simple choice for the bow bumpkin, the actual ship has it, therefore I have on my model. Whether the model is being rigged for sails or not is immaterial for me, it's there now on the real ship, so it's on my model. And, it was not difficult to install. I still haven't added the stern ones yet. Jon
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