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JSGerson

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About JSGerson

  • Birthday 11/04/1946

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aiken, South Carolina

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  1.    PaddyO reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by JSGerson - Model Shipways Kit No. MS2040
  2.    mtbediz reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by JSGerson - Model Shipways Kit No. MS2040
  3.    GGibson reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by JSGerson - Model Shipways Kit No. MS2040
  4.    vossiewulf reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by JSGerson - Model Shipways Kit No. MS2040
  5. JSGerson
    The second canopy frame is completed in one month, half the time it took me for the first one. This is one of the pairs of hatchways at the ship’s wheel. The other one is closed and therefore has no frame. The last two are on the main hatchway. They are a bit smaller and have only seven stanchions each. Jon
  6.    mtbediz reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
  7.    mtbediz reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by Der Alte Rentner - Model Shipways - 1/76
  8. JSGerson
    I know you asked this question to Geoff, but I thought I would throw in my two cents. I've always felt that the eye bolts supplied by Model Shipway were for the most part, too big for the scale of the model. Some years ago I found on eBay, Model Shipway supplied 1/32" brass eyebolts sold in a 1,000 items per bag. A 1/32" eyebolt is about 2.4" scale (1:76.8). I have used just about every one of them. Unfortunately, I could not find that deal again. But I have found from various vendors the 1/32" eyebolts both in brass and copper but sold in smaller units. For me, they are a must have item. I suggest that you have a supply of these as they will be very handy to have. Jon
  9. JSGerson
    I would love to have the dividing attachment, but for the cost and the amount of times I could use it in the future, I can't justify the cost. That and the fact my Dremel drill stand is not what you would call a precision instrument. Setting up the X-Y table on the drill stand is a pain because it's held in place with clamps and alignment is done by eyeball and trial and error. As for the draw plate, I got mine from Byrnes Machine Tools and it was worth every penny. I bought it because the drawplate had from Micro-Mark just wasn't a precision tool especially for the fine holes. I've learned not to buy tools before I need them, because invariably, I didn't need them. The other side of the coin is not having the tool when you need it and it's too late to buy it, like the dividing tool. I wish you well on you new acquisitions. Jon
  10.    mtbediz reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
  11. JSGerson
    I really wanted the canopy to have the center ornament that others had made. I committed myself and I will finish them before the decade is done🙃! Jon
  12.    mtbediz reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
  13.    GGibson reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
  14.    woodartist reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
  15. JSGerson
    Well done. I would have never have thought of fabricating the binnacles in that manner. Since I don't have a true drill press, just my Dremel drill stand and a Proxxon X-Y table, I'll have to give some thought as to how I could successfully accomplish the same thing as you (alignment issues) when the time comes . That is, if I ever finish these #$%^& canopy frames.🤬 Jon
  16. JSGerson
    Still, Wow!
  17. JSGerson
    Wow!
  18. JSGerson
    Out of curiosity, how did you set up your soldering jig for the skylight railing? Jon
  19. JSGerson
    Compared to mine, your skylight is simpler to construct and just as visually effective if not more so. Excellence job in placing those horizonal brass bars. That was not easy to do. Breath wrong or have a slight hand tremor, and it's messed up. Well done. Jon
  20. JSGerson
    I have a lot of images of the Constitution, I mean a LOT of pictures. However strange it may sound, I do not have any images of the interior of the Commodore's pantry. I suspect, and this my opinion only, the Navy staff uses that small area for storage, something the public doesn't need to see. I have visited the ship at least 3 times, the last time was November 31, 2014 just before her last refit, but never got a private tour which would have allowed me to see things the general public did not have had access to. Had I joined the NRG sooner when they had one of their yearly conventions in Boston, I would have had that private tour. So sorry, no pictures of the interior of the pantry. I do have pictures of the tiller room where the steering cables hook up to the rudder should you want them. Jon
  21. JSGerson
    I assume that at some point you will wrap rope around the steering drum. That means the rope needs to pass through the deck. I didn't see any provisions for that. Should you rig the ship's wheel, here are some photos to help you do that.
  22. JSGerson
    Coming along very nicely Jon
  23. JSGerson
    Nicely done, you make it seem so simple. Of course, it helps to have the proper tools, like a drill press sitting over a lathe. The metal rods work nicely too. They won’t snap and break at the merest glance. If you had absolutely no choice but to use wood, I would have recommended bamboo pulled through a drawplate. The bamboo fibers give added strength. That’s how I made my treenails for my Rattlesnake. Although that process is tedious and a pain, it works. Jon
  24. JSGerson
    As usual, you blew right past me with the canopy frames. I am not a soldering wiz. I thought about using solder, but I have never done anything that complicated with it. You seemed to have figured it out. You didn't fabricate the frame's central ornament so that simplifies things. I'm still playing footsie's with my glued joints. Until the whole structure is assembled, one wrong move and I break a glued joint and it's one step forward and two back. This slows down my normal slow pace even further, but I'll persevere. Now that you are starting the ship's wheel, are you following anyone's method or are you "reinventing the wheel"😁? Sorry, I couldn't resist that quip. I don't know if you have any plan's for the wheel, so I have attached the US Navy plans for your convenience should you want to refer to them. Jon
  25. JSGerson
    I wouldn't worry too much about whether the wire overlaps itself or not. Once you paint or blacken them, insert them into the bulwarks, and hook the gun tackle to them, they will all but disappear from from view or notice. Also they will be be in low light conditions and barely visible. I made mine the hard way, I silver soldered two eyebolts together because I didn't think to do it another simpler method. Jon

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