JSGerson

Ahh yes, the Model Airways 1917 Albatross d.Va. I finished building that in 2007. Around 2020 or so a strange phenomena took place. The Britannia metal wheel struts collapsed in veeerrrrrryyyy slow motion. I didn't notice it because it happened over years and then I did. I just wasn't looking at very often. The model was kept in case, in an air condition room, out of direct sunlight. I must assume it was the weight of the model that was too heavy for the soft Britannia struts. So, I got the kit box back out, looked up the part number and requested a replacement from Model Expo, which to their credit they did. But as I thought more about it, I decided why go through all the trouble and effort to replace the Britannia struts which collapsed, with another set of Britannia struts making the same mistake. Therefore, I used the replacement Britannia struts as a template for new stronger Boxwood ones. Now the problem is how to dismantle the model and rigging enough to remove the deformed struts, while not damaging anything else. I will need to create and fabricate a rig to support the model upside down so as to not putting negative stress on the wings. When the struts were originally installed, the wings were not attached. A relatively easy process. By the way, those coins did not come out of pocket, but out of my old coin jar. Heck, I don't even recognize paper money any more other than a one dollar bill, the only bill that hasn't changed over the years. I live and die by the credit card and electronic banking and bill paying. The only place I spend cash is at my barber shop which is all they accept. Yes, an old fashioned barber shop, not a hair salon. Jon

As it turned out, the 3-D misprinted/broken recoil rope eye bolts for are a moot point as I had to remove all of them anyways. They were very fragile, delicate, and broke when I tried to attach the required ring to them. The plastic is very stiff, inflexible, and will snap if any stress is applied to them. Each of the 20 carronades required seven 1/32” eyebolts, one each for the two tackles per side, one for the recoil rope per side, and one on the rear of the gun slide. The recoil eyebolts have a ring passing through their eye through which the recoil ropes are threaded. These were replaced with trimmed eyebolts bent 90° with the attached ring. All 20 carronades were dry positioned on the spar deck ready to be rigged. First, I need to fabricate the two long guns to complete the spar deck’s armament.

Ken Forman is always a wealth of experience and knowledge. Jon

You got the brass bands real snug to the mast without any voids and they look great. Any particular method to accomplish that? My first thought when I saw the pictures before I read the post was that you sliced up a brass tube, but you obviously didn't do that. Well done!! Jon

A single wire around the the deadeye should work perfectly fine. No one will aware what is stropping the deadeye or notice, much less know, that it is not a double wire like the real ship. There will be a whole more interesting things to look at on the model when you are done. You are making a model, not a miniature replica. You've got s good design for your deadeye to strap connection. They will be very pretty when done. Jon

I agree with you that 0.6 mm or 0.7 mm wire would provide better results and would be easier to work with. Jon.

Marcus,K.: I took another look at 35208 and you are correct, it is "risers." I stand corrected.🤔

From what I surmised from the images Ken provided, he did not attached the deadeyes to the chain plates. He twisted the wires stropping the deadeyes creating a tail which was then inserted into the channel. The chain plates were laid on top of the tails and extended to the hull. The "joint" was eventually covered over by the channel cap hiding the false connection. A little bit of modeler's sleight of hand.

I read it the same way but made some minor corrections (typos, different interpretation of words, & omissions) in red. Note the term "viz." means "in other words" (I had to look that up). This plan has been drawn as a matter of record and comparison with Navy Yard Boston Midship Section Plan No 34526 BU C.S.A No 130241 which has been approved by that bureau subject to checking and revision to bring it in accord with additional data as may come to the attention of the commandant before any work is authorized and or started. Plan A ?? per original specification is not to be strictly followed in reconstruction. Some features will however be incorporated viz.: height of main hatch coamings, diagonal risers chamfering edges of wales and black strakes installation of third strakes etc. Whether this helps or not, 🫤 I don't know.

Always glad to be of help Jon

I'm surprised that the MS plans don't provide plans for these parts. I copied what was provided in the kit with a centimeter scale for your convenience. Jon

Here is what I have for 35208 Jon

US Navy Plans attached Jon

I sent these images to Mustafa as well. It shows what the actual connections look like to help guide you. In my opinion, your idea should work better if you use the stronger boxwood for the channels instead of basswood. Jon

The MS plans are based on the 1927-31 renovation with some more recent details scattered about. What makes this renovation unique is that it added the top gallant rail, which has since been removed in more recent renovations. I checked Marguardt's AOS book on the USS Constitution and the 1812 configuration. Surprisingly, it showed no sheaves. Sheaves did appear in later configurations of the hull that he presented. As an aside, I can't believe/understand why sheaves would be on the gun deck. You're in the midst of battle, the command is to move the sails. You are going to have run down a ladder to another deck to pull on ropes and get your subsequent commands relayed to you through one or more people with the noise of a battle in a confined space? Doesn't make sense to me. To be sure, I would DM MrBlueJacket for clarification/explanation. He will respond to you. Jon