JSGerson

These are questions that the USS Constitution Museum might be able to help you with. Jon

Another job well done. The wood contrasts add a nice touch. Jon

That bowsprit is one complicated component and you fabricated beautifully. Well done!!! Jon

Very nice! Yes, I know that "two steps forward, one step back" dance too, even more so with a couple of side steps and a twirl or two!😁 Jon

Neat jig! Jon

I would love to have that milling machine, but at this late stage of the build and my age ( I just turned 79 in November), I don't think I'll be building anything (if at all) nearly as challenging as this model that would require that tool, once my Conny is done. I do have an idea as to how to fabricate the stairs that would not require a milling tool as be as precise as yours ... I think. We'll see when I get there. In the meantime, I'm still plugging away at rigging the spar deck guns. Things should pick up pace once they are done. Jon

Nicely done! But I have questions; don’t I always. When cutting the steps, I assume you “dialed in" the horizontal distance with the X-Y table to be precise and consistent. How did you measure the vertical distance? I don’t have a real drill press, just a Dremel drill press stand which does not have any controls for precise measured movement vertically. Are there any controls on your dedicated drill press or did you just use a ruler or micrometer? How did/will you mate the stairs to the bowsprit? Did cut a bevel on the underside of the stairs, or flatten the top surface of the bowsprit? If you beveled the stairs, how? Did you use a scraper or something else? Oh yes, don’t forget to provide a clearance notch under the stairs for the gammoning to pass through. Jon

Heavy anchor chains were stored in the chain locker, located beneath the orlop deck (the lowest deck) and forward of the mainmast, in the bow section where the anchor chains would run down and coil when brought aboard. The rope cable or chains length varied but were about several hundred feet long. See attached plan. On my model, I have both a cable and a chain traveling from the hawsers along the gun deck and down into pipes leading down into the chain locker. Jon

Thank you. You made a complicated rigging element look simple. Again, well done. Jon

They look beautiful! You didn't perhaps take pictures showing the sequence of steps you took to get the Bentinck shrouds into the state shown? Are the short shrouds sections coming off the the futtock stave, looping in the big ring or are they individually tied off at the ring? I understand your choice to omit some fine details due to scale; at full scale, there is an awful lot stuff crammed in there. But whatever you did, it look great. Jon

I checked a number of books I have, and this one had an explanation and diagram of what may have been going on in the two photos I previously sent you. This may relieve your headache or regrettable make it worse. I hope for the former. Jon

Well done! I don't think you have to worry about rigging the cathead blocks unless you plan on adding sails. BTW, I bought the same lion's head for my model, just at a larger scale (1:76.8). It worked quite well. Jon

I decided to dig a little further so explored the the last time the anchors were in use which was 1930s. I hoping to find how the cathead rigging was used and tied off. I had no luck from the spar deck, but I did get a clue from 1931 photos looking at the anchor hanging from the cathead. Note there is a line coming from the cathead running by the man kneeling on the cathead, rising up to somewhere in the mast rigging, bypassing the cleats on the bulwark. Jon

Here is a view of the cleat with the topgallant rail, albeit not being used for the cathead, but a clear picture never the less. Jon

At first glance at your next to last photo, (post 985), you almost can't tell if you are looking at a model or the actual ship! Well done!!!! Jon

Peter, other than installing a double linked chain (links with a cross bar) and a cable for two anchors on the gun deck, I haven't spent much time dealing with the anchors. Since my build is based mostly on the 2017 restoration, the last photo I found where the ship had an active anchor was from her tour to the west coast in the thirty's after her 1927 restoration. She sported a double linked chain and a rope cable for the anchors. Since the kit provided three anchors, I figured I'd store the third one on the spar deck. I haven't checked Ken's log for his anchor placement methods yet and probable won't until I get ready to install them. As I have mentioned before, I don't know how accurate my configuration is, but it does allow me to demonstrate the variations. At present, my anchor chain and cable hang anchorless and waiting. I am try not to add items they may get knocked off the model as it is being handled until necessary. I learned this lesson first with gun port covers being knocked off on my Rattlesnake, and second with the rope stanchions on the gun deck being knocked off for installing them too early. So, until I rig all the spar deck guns (and this is taking forever), add all the other furniture to the spar deck, and install the channels, among other things, the anchors will have to wait. Jon

Looking at the actual ship, you are right...of course! My eyesight is not what it use to be...and it was bad then too. I've been wearing glasses since I was seven and should have been wearing them sooner than that. That little detail my fabrication so much easier. Jon

Beautifully done. I assume that since that channel eyebolt is not attached to anything other than the channel, can pull it off, open it up to accept the block double rings, and insert it back into the opening left in the channel? Or do you have a better alternative elegant plan to attached to that triple block to the channel eyebolt? Jon

Looks good to me. Nicely done. Jon

Very impressive, as always!! Jon

Peter, have you looked at my log, starting at post 757. It may help you...or not🤓

Just stumbled onto this log and let me also welcome you the black hole of wooden ship model. Once you jump in, it is very hard to climb out. I have been working on my MSW Constitution since 2017 and still have a number of years to go. This is my 2nd fully rigged plank on bulkhead (POB) ship and my 3rd wooden model. My 1st was a solid hull Mamoli kit of the British schooner Evergreen. My 2nd was the POB Mamoli Rattlesnake. Since you are new to this hobby of wooden ships, may I suggest that when you are ready to start the USS Constitution, you invest in the USS Constitution practicum by Robert Hunt at his Lauck Street Shipyard website. He provides step by step instruction invaluable for beginners. But, be aware, his practicum is not perfect and most of us use his instructions just as a guide. We also review the build logs of others for their guidance as well. It is also important to have the proper tools. Do not make the mistake of buying a tool in anticipation of its use. Check with others, to find out if it really worth the money. I have have bought many a tool, only to have it covered in sawdust from lack of use. One tool however. that I highly recommend, is the Jim Byrnes 4" table saw from Byrnes Model Machines. This is a highly sought after precision tool well worth the money. I look forward to your future postings, especially when you start your USS Constitution kit. There is a wealth of information and active builders here on MSW to help you along. Jon

I did you one better. After I made my rudder, I set it aside in a box to be used later when I was ready to add its hinges. Then I used it to help formulate and fabricate the hinge axial, pintles, and gudgeons. When I was ready to install them on the rudder, I couldn't find the rudder. Now a rudder is not an easy thing to lose. Yet after weeks of looking I gave up because I didn't want to waste more time looking and so I fabricated a new one and installed it as you see it today. Then about a week later, the original one reappeared innocently sitting on my workbench just behind the model. I know I checked the workbench thoroughly and it was gone. Now it's back. A total mystery in the saga of ship model builders. Jon

I think you misread my post. I have no intentions of rigging the rudder to be activated by the ship's wheel. Once the rudder is in position in the display case, that's it, I'm done.😁

Very nice looking. From what I can see, the rudder will not move on your model, but then again it doesn't have to. It's a static model. I made mine moveable strictly as a challenge of my skills. Once my model is in its display case, my rudder won't move either. You save a lot of work and got beautiful results. Well done! Jon