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JSGerson

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Everything posted by JSGerson

  1. It is fascinating to watch you assemble the historical pieces you have accumulated and translate them into your model. I can't wait for more posts. Jon
  2. I have completed the gun deck on my model and followed the photos of the real ship for fastening the ropes and tackles to the bulwarks. I am doing the same thing for the spar deck now. It was a little tricky to attach the recoil ropes between two eyebolts and adding a pin to lock them in place, but I made it work. If you are going to seize your block and tackle directly to the bulwark eyebolts, DO NOT attach the eyebolts to the bulwark first. It will be a b*tch seizing the lines to the eyebolts on the model. Seize the lines to the eyebolts off-ship, then insert the eyebolt with the attached tackle into bulwark. Personally, IMHO, I believe the use of hooks would have been more practical on the ship for quick and easy replacement when it was required. Jon
  3. Well done! And I love your sense of humor. I bet you have the only model of the USS Constitution demonstrating the use of the "seats of ease."🤣 Jon
  4. The main thing I don't like about tulle is that it is not a true cross net. If you look closely, the intersections of the lines forms a star pattern. Of course, you would have to be up real close and be wither very near sighted or have a magnifying glass so the model builder can get away with it. I have found ship blogs where the builders weave their own nets. If anyone is interested, I can point you to them. Then there is the alternative: Steel mesh. Model Expo offer one but does not indicate the dimensions of the mesh squares Modeler Central (Australia) I have not used either one Jon
  5. That is some jig you made. It worked perfectly! Jon
  6. Those are some exquisitely clean cut notches on those trestle tree components. As always, a pleasure to see your workmanship. Jon
  7. For me, the enjoyment is in the journey and this model has a multitudes of side trips, some seen by others, others not so much. Once the project is finished and on display, the fun, for the most part ends. My journey so far. is 8 years and still running😁! Jon
  8. I too built the gun deck with a bunch of details. I made them somewhat visible by removing some of the main hatchways, spar deck planking, and beam supports. However, even with openings, a lot of the gun deck details are still obscured. Only me and the man upstairs know they are there. The image below shows the present state of my model. Jon
  9. Well, it looks like you jumped into the deep end of pool!!! Enjoy!! Jon
  10. If you look closely, drilling holes is the way to go. They don't look constructed like the method the channels used. Jon
  11. I can't speak for Mustafa's model but technically, the deadeyes on the actual ship are not attached to the tops at all; but pass through openings in the tops and attached to the Bentnik Shrouds below. Jon
  12. I have seen it, but think it may just be too big at the scale we are working at. I can barely use fine needle tweezers, so I just tie a simple knot with the seizing line, wrap 2 or 3 times and tie another simple knot. Then I add a fine drop of CA glue to finish. For me, that tool makes sense for larger scales. Jon
  13. Frank. you might be able to make the hook style I used using a thinner gauge for your 1:96 scale, but I think you would also lose strength with such a fine wire. And I not even talking about line seizing. I would simplify the process. Getting blocks smaller than 3/32" is going to be tough and adding a hook, tougher. When I made my 1:64 scale Rattlesnake, I wasn't as cognizant of the block rigging details, so I drilled a fine hole into the block and inserted/glued a straight shaft hook into the hole and skipped tieing the hook to the block. Wrapping the rope line around the block was made easier, neater, and no layman was wiser. Jon
  14. Would you believe there are 100 hooks in this container? Once I got into the rhythm of bending the 1/32” eyebolts, I could do about 2, to 3 per minute, but it was tedious and working using the pliers, wire cutter, with a magnifier headset was tiresome. Now comes the really tiresome part, making 5 identical sets of tackle per each of the 20 carronades and 2 long guns. Oh joy.
  15. Gregg, now you are just being nice. I would say, it's just barely passing. snipping the seizing line close to to the rope line so it's not hanging, is an art I must master. I could get away with these flaws on the gun deck because you just can't see them well, but on the spar deck, they are out in the open. Jon
  16. You don't disappoint, they look gorgeous! Jon
  17. I did make a prototype recoil tackle to determine how much line I would need for that, approx. 3”. Looking at the miniature rope provided by the kit, the smallest diameter line provided were parts Nos. WP2589 (black) & WP2587 (tan) 3/0, 0.005” (0.13 mm) dia. two strand nylon. They did not look rope. They did look good for seizing line, so that is what I tried. My first attempt was a tad crude, but it won’t be noticed unless you have fantastic eyesight. I should improve as I make more.
  18. Rigging the Spar Deck Carronades There are three components to gun tackle: the rope, the hooks, and the blocks. I will initially be using .008” (.20 mm) Syren Ship Model Co, miniature tan rope and 3/32” (2.4 mm) blocks (single & double). The hooks I must make myself from 1/32” (0.8 mm) eyebolts. As far as I know, nobody makes 1/32” hooks with a quarter twist so that the eye is turned 90° from the hook. There are 20 carronades each requiring a minimum of 4 hooks. Then there are 5 hooks each for the two 24 pounders. That’s 90 hooks minimum assuming I don’t lose any during the fabrication process. I’ll make about 100 of these for the time being. So that alone is going to take a while to fabricate.
  19. The Constitution's transom has been the bane of many a builder, including Robert Hunt and myself among them. I really hope this works well for you. So far, so good. Jon
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