JSGerson
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Everything posted by JSGerson
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It has been over a month since my last posting of the progress of my model. I have not been idle but working on it at my usual pace…slowly. I made very little progress considering the time I spent. For the first railing and canopy structure I chose the companionway and skylight frame because it was large and looked like it was the easiest. I drilled seven 1/16” holes for the 1/16” base sleeves which were cut from a 1/16” brass tube. The stanchions were cut from 3/32” brass tube and inserted into the sleeves for fit.
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I would never pass judgment on the model builder's choices, so much is involved. In this case, there is no correct selection for the carronades. Either you match what is on the the ship today and have the incorrect style armament or install the correct 1812 style guns and not be true to what the ship has on board. It's the builder's decision. Jon
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To be honest, I did not pay attention to the asymmetry because I was wasn't really aware of it at the time. The differences are so slight I cannot discern the differences at this small scale with my eyesight. I serious believe that most people wouldn't even recognize the differences even if it were pointed out to them on the model. So, I got away with this small error. I'll probably make a whole lot more before I'm done. Jon
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Since you are going to try and recreate the shield, you might as well have the exact shape from the US Navy.
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I looked at all of the museum model images I had, especially the 1812 Hull model. There was no consensus. The Hull model didn't even show the sea steps. And the other models, constructed as early as 1870, showed all the combinations: all black, all white, matched the hull adjacent to the steps. One model even had a Jacob ladder instead of permanent steps. I imagine the coloration may have changed anytime time the hull was painted to the captain-at-the-time's whim. So the choice is yours. Jon
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The following is from the USS Constitution Museum: As stated above, all but two carronades are inaccurate British guns replicas with the remaining two gun replicas closer to the 1812 pattern. Somewhere I read in the USS Constitution Museum documents that the plan is to replace the inaccurate carronades with the 1812 style at some future date. Therefore, I decided that ALL my model's carronades will be the more accurate 1812 style (screw type elevation mechanism). Jon
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You might try making a decal from one of these photos. Of course you will have to reduce it down to the proper size. Jon
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You are the only person I've seen, known, or been aware of, other than myself, who fabricated their own scuppers and I've seen over 100 build logs (completed and uncompleted). You did a great job on those scuppers. Jon
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Thanks for letting me know you had started a build log; I'll following along. I was not aware of the Archer 3D decals so I did not consider them when figuring out how to make the pseudo bolt heads for the hull. Would I have used them had I known about them, I don't know. You mentioned that you felt like you were "cheating" when making the nail divots in the copper plates. You didn't. You created a tool to get the job done to your satisfaction. I thought hard about making a stamp for my nail divots but decided that the results of the stamp would have been too out of scale for my tastes. Even at full scale, the indentations are difficult to see. If I didn't make divots, the copper surface would have been smooth and shiny, and that would have been wrong. So, I tried the "sandpaper" technique to suggest to the viewer there was texture to the copper surface. You may have gotten away with the same technique if you had used finer sandpaper due to your smaller scale. In the end, your copper plates will be the envy of many future builders. Those airports you fabricated are fantastic. Just remember, the port frame lies flush to the hull surface and only the eyebrow protrudes. However, once they are painted black like the hull, they will still "disappear." They even do on my 1:76 model. I look forward to your future posts Jon
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Blood, sweat, and tears is what it takes! It's looking great! Jon
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As long as you are aware that some tweeting (not twerking) may be required, then all is good.🙂
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I'm being very critical so don't take this wrong. It appears from the photos that your beautifully cut pieces may be a tad too wide/thick (for lack of a better term). Looking at the line drawing and comparing it to the cut pieces, it seems to be the cut pieces are too wide by a width of the line. It's as if you cut the pieces to the outside of the line when it should have been to the inside. This may be an optical illusion, as we are talking thousands of an inch, but these pieces need to fit on the trail board with room for the white edging. The tolerances are very tight. Have you dry fitted these few pieces yet. I would hate to have you realize, that when all the pieces are put together, they won't fit. I hope I'm wrong Jon
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It looks great! I had a lot of fun installing all the accoutrements the boats required. I still have to make the oars at least and any other goodies I may think of. It's for that reason, I plan on not covering the boats. It would be a shame to hide all of those details. Jon
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Those stars look simple enough, but are real easy to screw up. Nice job! Jon
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Well Done!!! Jon
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This looks very familiar. Now you know why mine looks the way it does. This is NOT easy. You need teeny, tiny clamps, and ultra, ultra, sharp cutting tools, and spider like fingers to hold and cut the fine pieces of wood. Even styrene will break apart at these sizes. What is needed I think, are fine watchmaker skills which I don't have. Jon
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I can't help but thinking that you are going to a lot of trouble to get accurate planking for the gun deck. The situation as I see it is that the gun deck planking will be unviewable through the open gun ports because the guns themself will be blocking them up, reducing the gun deck viewing angle to almost nothing. If the spar deck is to be fully planked, you will have no light to illuminate the gun deck to see any of its detailed planking. In order to get viewing light, that means something must be opened on the spar deck. If that happens, now you will have to at least partially furnish the gun deck that is to be viewed. My build doesn't have any spar deck planks installed yet, and already the gun deck is getting difficult to see the detail I've added. So, what are your plan? I love what you are attempting to do, but as you are already aware, what you do in the very early stages of the build, will have repercussions as you move forward. Jon
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You've got to admit, it's an interesting optical illusion 🫣😁 Jon
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Gorgeous work, but are my eyes deceiving me, it looks like the mold is only one side of the Pinnace. How does that work? Jon
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You have set the standards! Jon -
Placing those window bars on the skylight is tough (at least for me); nice job! Everything is coming together nicely. And that Pinnace looks like a real beauty. Other that the obvious reasons, why did you choose to scratch fabricate the boats instead of using the "bread and butter" build from the kit? How did you make the mold? I'm still dicking around on my canopy frames. Jon
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I assume you wanted the vector images for a laser cutter. Hopefully, the laser won't burn off the fine sharp details. I used the US Navy plans scaled down and hand carved the scrollwork from that. When it came to the sharp points and narrow joints, I had difficulty. My tools were just too thick to get into those areas. As a result, they are a bit rounded or thick more that I would have liked. But, if you're more than 1 foot away, it's not very noticeable. If it's not too late, the US Navy trailboard plans provides three dimensional detail that a good laser cutter could use, especially at the fiddlehead. If you want and don't have the plans, I can send them to you. Jon
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I have the US Navy gun & carriage plans for the Conny should you want them. I have already submitted them to other builders as well. Jon
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I tried styrene with mixed results. I found that CA glue made the plastic brittle. If I were to do it over again, I would use birchwood strips. Its flexible enough to tie into knots! I don't know if you can find the exact dimensions pre-cut however, so you might have to do that yourself. There are an number of suppliers on the web. Jon
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