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JSGerson

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Everything posted by JSGerson

  1. JSGerson
    The skylight windows invited numerous methods from a variety of builders depending on whether the skylight was solid wood mimicking a glass enclosure or an actual framework. My method is also a bit unique. Because I intended to make actual windows with a frame and glass (mica), the window frame would only be supported at the base and top of the window frame. Therefore, I had to create a “floating” top support. The actual skylight has a wood dome with an internal mechanism to facilitate the opening and closing of the windows. So, that inspired me to have my dome supported by a pole paying homage to the real thing. An extended dome was fabricated out of boxwood with a hole drilled about halfway through to accept a piece of music wire. Another hole was drilled through the base to support the wire. The dome was stuck on the wire, inserted into the base, tweaked so that the top of the dome was ½” from the bottom of the base.
  2. JSGerson
    The side border framework was made from 1/16” x 1/32” boxwood.
  3. JSGerson
    As usual, the first thing I did was gather my materials needed for this endeavor. One of the items was brass wire for the horizontal 3/8” brass bars protecting the glass windows. This scaled down to 0.005” or 36-gauge brass wire which Mr. Hunt did use on his construct. However, try as I might, I could not locate 36-gauge identified brass wire to purchase. I did find Infini Model Micro Fine Brass Wire 0.1mm IBW-1000 (0.004”) online at A-Z Toy Hobby in Texas. I don’t think anyone will notice the 0.001” difference in thickness. Using the template from the practicum, the skylight base core was cut from ¼” thick basswood stock.
  4. JSGerson
    While I waited for the new drill bits to arrive, I put the canopy stanchions on hold and started to work on the captain’s skylight. This took longer than I had expected, and the time was also interrupted with my annual Thanksgiving weeklong trip to my sister’s home where the family gathers for the holiday. I studied the practicum method, xKen’s method and others. Since I am a glutton for punishment, I chose not to take the simple route. I wanted transparent windowpanes and close to scale details which meant, I would be using Ken Foreman’s as a guide more than Bob Hunt’s. Also, Bob did not fabricate the brass railing surrounding the skylight which Ken did.
  5. JSGerson
    The photo of the anchor was taken May 5,1931 by Leslie Jones. I have six more similar images taken at the same time should you want them. Jon
  6. JSGerson
    I didn't find any additional detail on the waterways other than this 1927 version of the midsection section which just states "solid waterways" & "white oak," with a clear image of the waterways cross section. As for the joints, they are probably some sort of lap joints. but any detail would be perpendicular joint lines and those be barely visible on bare wood. Your model would get the same visual effect from a simple butt joint. I think any effort to make them more prominent, would render them out of scale and not help the model. Jon
  7. JSGerson
    Click here for unegawaya One of the reasons the waterway is installed first is because that's the way the actual ship was built (see cross section plan). I see no reason you couldn't plank first then add the waterways second for a model. You would have to modify the waterway cross section to account for the planking under it. Jon
  8. JSGerson
    Just catching up on a week's worth of everyone I've following's build logs. Beautiful work as always. Jon
  9. JSGerson
    We are making models, not miniature reconstructions. I didn't cut the waterways either. It just has to look right no mater how you do it....and you do it very well. Jon
  10. JSGerson
    Well, I got home late Monday afternoon and saw that you completed(?) fabricating the catheads, but as promised here are the US Navy plans. Jon
  11. JSGerson
    Gregg, We are here to answer your questions as best as we can. Look forward to your build. Jon
  12. JSGerson
    I have 1 or 2 books from that era, but I'll to wait till I get home next week to check to see if I have that one. Jon
  13. JSGerson
    If you are willing to wait a week, I would tell you the exact US Navy plan for the catheads. I am visiting my sister for the Thanksgiving holiday and am not able to access my computer. I am using hers to communicate. Jon
  14. JSGerson
    The short answer is yes, you must sign up, but it doesn't cost anything. You can also choose the language you wish to read it in. I did, and have had no problems. Jon
  15. JSGerson
    I like Marcus' idea. You may end up with a very unique model. I have not seen any 1804 based models. This is most important. NOW is the time to make these decisions. Trying to make or change your choices after you start building up the ship's frame will become increasingly difficult. Take a look at the history of the figurehead/billethead here: https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2017/03/03/bow-decor/ BTW, the missing Hercules figurehead was finally replaced in 1833 with the President Andrew Jackson figurehead, an unpopular President in the Constitution's home port of Boston, Massachusetts. One stormy night in1834, a protesting local captain sawed off the wooden Jackson's head. Since then, there hasn't been a figurehead on the ship, just the billethead decoration. Jon
  16. JSGerson
    The stem that came with the kit was never meant to be seen without a covering of copper plate and paint so Model Shipways wasn't concerned about the individual pieces that it was comprised of. As such, the silhouette of the stem reflects closely what the ship looks like today so I am not surprised it doesn't match the old plans. You are trying to envision the ship as she was commissioned which nobody really knows what that looked like, other than some historically based educated guesses. Your stem plan looks plausible, but probably not historically accurate. I don't have any drawings of the stem earlier than 1927. Plan 14705 shows what the stem looked like prior to the 1927-31 restoration. So, if you were to try to me be more historically accurate, I would try to make the stem look more like what the 1927 plans show. Here are the plan numbers I have. If you can't find all of them at the museum, let me know. Here is the earliest know photograph of the ship showing her stem during her restoration in Portsmouth, Maine 1858. 1927 - No.: 14705 1927 - No.: 25006 1927 - No.: 25026 1929 - No.: 24779 1972 - No.: 25007 Hope this helps, Jon
  17. JSGerson
    I would take the drawing you made in your last post, copy it and copy again in mirror image (port and starboard). Make a template by cutting the whole image as a whole out of the paper and with rubber cement, glue it to the stem on the model. With a sharp blade or using pin points, imprint the "puzzle pieces" into the wood. Then you can peel off the templates and finish embossing the lines into the wood. Jon
  18. JSGerson
    If the ship didn't already have a name, I would have suggested you name her Tenacity, because that's what it took to get the model to this stage! Jon
  19. JSGerson
    Deck planks were about: · 20’ (6.4m) long · 8” and 10” (20 cm and 25 cm) wide At 1:76.8 scale: · 3¼” (8.25 cm) long · 7/64” and 1/8” (2.5 mm and 3 mm) wide Jon
  20. JSGerson
    Planks are typically no more than 12" (30 cm) wide at midships and with an average length of 40’ (12 m). That means at scale of 1:76.8: · Max width: 5/32” (4 mm) (This what is provided in the kit) · Average length: 6” (15 cm) When approaching the bow or stern, the planks will narrow. Do not narrow more than ½ of the original plank width. Jon
  21. JSGerson
    Most of the US Navy plans that I have can be found at the USS Constitution Museum which are free to the public to download. I have collected a few more obscure plans from various other sources of the years. Should you need photos, I have accumulated thousands of images of the ship from the present day all the way back to 1857. Earlier than that you will have to rely on contemporary paintings for images. Jon
  22. JSGerson
    For anything that requires sharp, precise edges, I use Boxwood. Basswood is too soft and frays at the edges. BTW, here are some US Navy drawings for the columns.
  23. JSGerson
    There is an excellent model of the 1797 configuration of the Frigate Constitution by Mark Antczak that were posted on Usetosail's log starting at post #556. Unfortunately, the original site these images were posted on, American Marine Models no longer exist there. I do have another set of 19 B&W images of a 1797 configuration model from the US Navy should you be interested. Hopefully these model will help you construct your model. Enjoy the journey Jon
  24. JSGerson
    I just found your build log today. It looks like you are on an exciting, if not challenging endeavor. I have some additional US Navy plans of the stem that may (or not) help.
  25. JSGerson
    Glad to have been of help. Jon

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