JSGerson
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To create the actual lid, an outer component and inner component were glued together at right angles to each other with one edge flush with each other in such a way that outer component slats were horizontal.
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20 pieces were cut to a length of 3/8” and another 20 were cut 1/32” shorter. Although you can’t tell in the picture above, the inner pile of pieces is the large size. This was a modification of the method described in the Practicum which used 40 pieces cut to the same length but required subsequent hand trimming. I thought my method was simpler and it gave the same final results. Two pieces of the same size were glued along their long edges using a simple jig to ensure everything was square making a component. The larger ones made the outer component and the smaller the inner.
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The Gunport Lids Although the Rattlesnake is a 20 gun ship only 10 of the gunports, which are under the Quarter Deck and the Forecastle, have lids. In lieu of using the kit supplied one piece lid these are fabricated from 4 strips of 1/32” x 3/16” boxwood. Two of the strips glued at their edges are perpendicular to the other two strips glued the same way. The one difference is that the inner side of the lid is has a 1/32” lip on the sides and bottom.
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There are so many great build logs on MSW it's hard to keep track of them all. Thanks for pointing me to Blue Ensign's blog. It's getting so I haven't had any time to build, I spend so much time reading everybody's else's stuff. I'm about halfway through making the gunport doors and will post them as so as I'm done.
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Flattery will get you everywhere! Careful, I may sound like I know what I am doing but I'm learning on the fly. There are a lot of things I wish I could do over and hopefully better. For example, I'm still not comfortable with planking. Looking at other builds and can see that I have a lot to learn. The part that really scares me are the masts and yards not to mention the rigging. But like they say, take it one step at a time...that and a deep breath!
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Now it was just a matter of positioning the channels and chain plates according to Hahn’s plans and gluing and fastening everything down. The results you see below.
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I received a tip from Martin W for a simple way to shorten the chainplates, but in the end I decided it really didn’t make much difference; the amount was so small. If one were follow exactly the Practicum and glue the molding to the channels before slipping the chainplate into the resulting square hole, you would quickly realize that the chainplate won’t fit. The loop at the bottom where the nail is to go is twice as large as the opening. Of course if I followed Mr. Martin W’s tip of snipping off the loop and drilling a new hole there would be no problem. So instead I cut the moldings to length and glued them on with the chainplates in place.
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I have the Byrnes Thickness Sander and as usual it is up to his high standards. The only items I don't have are his new rope walk and and the disk sander. They're on the expensive side but you get what you pay for.
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Not a bad idea. Since I'm still attaching them to the channels and they are not on the model I can still do that. Thanks for the tip.
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The chainplates are made of Britannia metal which very soft and has the consistency of lead (without the lead). It is very easy to break. So very carefully the large loop of the chainplate was squeezed tight as much as I dared around each deadeye, eight of which were of a smaller diameter. The Practicum discusses how Mr. Hunt modified the kit’s chainplates to shorten them, but I didn't want to risk doing that. The channel moldings were made in the same fashion as my earlier moldings using a razor blade with the molding cross section cut into it. The wood strip was then drawn repeatedly over the cut area until the design was cut into the wood.
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At this point the Practicum gives the builder a choice to either use the kit supplied chainplates or make their own. Based on the experience of Mr. Hunt and the need to solder very fine pieces, I chose to follow his lead and use the kit provided chainplates. They look a bit different from the Hahn’s plans, but it’ll work. Here an image of all the components necessary to create the channels.
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CHAPTER 9 - Final Details The Channels Basically the decks are complete sans the rigging accoutrements; it’s time to work on the channels. The first thing I noticed was that the Practicum directs the construction of 6 channels per side. Looking at the Hahn’s plans, it shows only 5 (two in the bow and three at the aft end) while the Mamoli plans shows 6 (3 at each end). The channel in contention is the one which starts from the edge of the forecastle. As a two channel breaking over the gun port configuration, the first channel contains one deadeye and the second contains three. As a single channel, it contains all 4 deadeyes and spans over the gun port. To get a consensus of which way I should build them, I went looking at my collection of 44 different Rattlesnake models images (Mamoli, Model Shipway, scratch built and pre-assembled). Only two model-makers built their models with 5 channels (a very fine Hahn’s based POF and a pre-assembled), so it would appear the 6 channel configuration is the model of choice. So be it. Using 1/16” x 3/16” boxwood two pieces each of six lengths were cut per the Practicum. These were then placed on the drawing to determine where the 1/16” notch for the chainplates were located. As shown in the Practicum, I used the Byrnes saw with a .40” thick blade to cut a 1/16” notch. The Practicum called for a .057 thick blade, but I didn't have one. A fine diamond coated needle file will be used to get the extra width.
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If you take a look at the Mamoli plan sheet No. 3, in the center right of the illustrations, it is part No. 107. On the Model Shipways plan (yes I finally received them) identified in the bottom right hand corner as "Plan-on Bulkhead Hull Construction" look at "section C-C" in the center of the drawing. The Hahn's plans don't address them. Somewhere I read that the gang planks were removed while out to sea, but those supports are something I wouldn't want run into during battle or in a storm.
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I'm curious, when the sailors removed the temporary gangplanks, what happened to the supports that held them up? They look like metal right angle brackets mounted directly to the bulwarks. If they are left in place, wouldn't that be some sort of work hazard? I know they didn't have OSHA looking over their shoulders but those shipwrights did know how to build a ship! In other words, should I install the brackets without the gangplanks?
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From what I understand, the temporary gangplanks were removed while the ship was at sea. The Practicum, based on Hahn's plans, does not address these. Some of the models I have images of show the temporary gangplank and some do not so at this point I have no plans to add them. If I did, I would have to move the ladders. They would also cover up the remaining cannon from view. Also some of the models show netting by the gangplanks. I'm not sure if that is part of the gangplanks or not so I'm not sure yet if I will try to make that.
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It was all done with fine needle files (flat and V-shape) and a very fine chisel
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End of Chapter 8 Here is what the model looks like at this stage
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They were glued on and then a coat of wipe-on poly applied
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Using scraps of swiss pear from the construction of the cannon trucks I fashion four ¼” cubes from which to carve the hances. (Remember, per the Practicum these were supposed to be put in when the gangplank was finished. At that point I explained why I didn’t) Once more my lack of experience has lead me to compromise. It turns out I did not pay attention to the angle of the rails in relationship to the deck. The waist rails should have been parallel to the forecastle and quarterdeck rails. Mine weren’t. As a result the hances are taller on the inside face than they are on the outside. The carvings were done to look like swirls. The Practicum claimed that the forward hances didn’t have any carvings on them, but per Hahn’s plans, you can’t tell as that area is covered with other detail. So I carved them to match the aft hances.
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Before they were glued to the bulwarks, I glued some pieces of scrap wood inside and flush to the top of the walls to provide a solid gluing surface for the rails.
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Main Waist Rails The main waist rails are made from two pieces of 1/16” x ¼” swiss pear. They were cut to length and trimmed as they narrow a bit at the ends. This was done with a series of dry fits.
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Forecastle Ladders Ahh the ladders…again. These ladders, the fifth and sixth ones now, were made the same way as the quarterdeck ladders were done so I have had a little practice. I looked around for a nice simple ladder making jig, but they seemed more effort than I thought worth it for these last two ladders. Using the Brynes saw and meticulous measurements, I was able to produce the required slots in the ladder sides with the proper width, depth, and spacing. The saw blade was 1/32” thick exactly the thickness of the steps which meant I had to sand the steps a bit to allow them to slide into the slots. After moving a few cannon ropes, they were glued into place.
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Forecastle Edge Piece Like the quarterdeck, I interpreted Harold Hahn’s plans to indicate there was an edge piece going from one deck clamp to the other for the forecastle. The Practicum did not address this at all. I have noted in other models, the maker did install it on theirs, so I did on mine. I was made in the same fashion as the quarterdeck
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Forecastle Deck Bitts The forecastle deck bitts were made in the same manner as the brace bitts on the quarterdeck from 3/32" square boxwood. They are the same height. The only difference between these and the brace bits is that the measurement from the ends of the cross piece was 5/32" instead of 3/32".
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I just ordered the MS plans - $12.50.(plus shipping $8.99) I finally got my sale!!!
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