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JSGerson

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  1. The last touch was to add the sceptre which nothing more than a pin with the point and head cut off. A hole was drilled into hand and the scepter was inserted. It was snug enough that no glue was necessary.
  2. As an aid in my carving, I pasted another template on the block carving.
  3. The first thing that had to be done was add the notch where it will attach to the stem as well as my temporary holder.
  4. Now the front view was cut out which resulted in a blocky figure from which the actual carving would commence.
  5. Using my scroll saw the side view was cut out and then reassembled with tape.
  6. The Figurehead Once more I was in an area I had never been before. I needed to carve a full three dimensional human figure. Heck, I can even draw a human figure let alone carve one. But like before, in for a penny, in for a pound. That and the fact the kit supplied figure won’t fit the scratch built stem. I was committed. Following the Practicum I printed the side and front views of the figurehead and rubber cemented them to a block of wood.
  7. The Counter Carvings Mr. Hunt wanted to provide an alternative method of creating ornamentation using a clay product called Premo because these counter carvings use compound curves and are difficult to create in wood even for him. I didn't like the results he got with Premo as shown in the Practicum, so I chose the hard method – I would wood carve it. I made numerous attempts because there is no true view of this shape. Through trial and error and shear tenacity I final came up with the shape that appears to work and would fit to the model.
  8. The carving commenced using the various burs, needle files and X-acto blades. For a first time carving the results were satisfactory to the novice eye. It didn't match the perfection of a skilled carving but it will do.
  9. The three pieces were glued together tight. The template was cut out, and rubber cemented to the assembled pieces. The shape was cut out using my old Dremel scroll saw
  10. The first thing I did was mess up. I cut the two pieces a bit short and had to improvise with a third piece.
  11. Mr. Hunt was very thoughtful and provided a color template. Anything in red was to be cut out. It made the carving easier to do. Because the carving is large and the HobbyMills wood package does not provide a piece of wood that width, the Practicum instructs the builder to use two pieces of 5/32” x ¾” wood stock and carve them separately in case “you mess up.” See the image from the practicum below.
  12. The Stern Carvings I have looked at a lot of rattlesnake models on the internet to see how the stern carvings were done. It appears no two are alike. They range from using the pre-cast metal “carving” the kits (MS and Mamoli) provide to simple or elaborate hand carvings. The practicum shows what the original British Admiralty draw looked like and the detail leaves something to be desired. Mr. Hunt made an admiral attempt to “clean up” the image but even he had difficulty with the snake image in the center of the carving. It is very difficult to discern the details. What he saw differs from what Mr. Hahn saw, which differs from what I saw. Since no can agree as what it really looked like, in the end I compromised a bit and used what I could carve.
  13. The two wolves were separated and with minimal effort using needle files and a fine chisel, I got what I assume is a satisfactory result.
  14. The Carvings Other than carving a canoe out of a piece of stick with a pocket knife when I was nine years old, I’ve never carved anything, let alone what I was about to attempt. The Practicum recommended that the builder get Bill Short’s book Carving ornamentation for Ship Models which I did. The Practicum also recommended that one should purchase a number of burs from Livesays Inc. for a rotary tool like the Dremel drill. This was almost mandatory as the burs are very fine and they are needed to make the fine cuts. I bought a few more than what the Practicum recommended: Type mm Part No. Ball Bur 0.50 18.1766G Cone Bur 0.80 18.289G Bud Bur 0.60 18.237G Inverted Cone 0.60 18.537G Mr. Hunt used a Turbo Carver but the Practicum advised against this purchase unless you are really into carving. As much as I like tools, I didn’t buy it. The Stem Carvings I suppose Mr. Hunt assumes that if the builder is going to carve the embellishments for the model, the builder must know how to carve because the first item the Practicum discusses is the stern carving. Since I’ve never done this before, I started with the stem carvings of the running wolves a much simpler challenge. As is the usual practice, the image was copied, cut, and rubber cemented to the stock wood. Because there is a wolf on either side of the model, the second one was reversed before printing.
  15. A template was made of each window showing the framework. The window frames were then constructed sandwich style like before. Place framework, add clear plastic insert, and add framework.
  16. CHAPTER 6 –The Carvings Transom and Side Stern Windows At this point the Practicum directs the builder to start the carvings. I looked at the boat and wondered why aren’t the transom and side stern windows being installed at this point? It would seem to be easier now than later when the carvings and interior stuff get installed. So once more I deviated from the Practicum. Looking at the transom, Mr. Hunt elected not to put in the center panel. All the models I saw including Mr. Hahn’s had the panel, so I decided that I would install the panel. It would have been easier when the window opening were first constructed, but now was not too late. Following the existing window lines the panel opening was drawn, drilled, cut out, and trimmed. Not knowing how the panel was constructed or how that construction would affect the completion of the interior as directed by the Practicum, I decided to use the 1/64” plywood for the panel face because it was so thin. I figured it wouldn’t affect the Practicum’s building process. Later on I saw one model maker use planks. Looking at the Hahn model pictures, I saw that the windows and the panel had frames around their openings. The windows then had their own frames. The opening frames were constructed directly on the model. The panel plywood was cut to size to just cover the opening and glued to the interior.
  17. Many thanks for the photos. Out of curiosity, you originally stated that "we used the rigging plan for the Rattlesnake as the model for the Eleanore's rig." What was the source used for the Rattlesnake rigging plan? Other than the rigging plan that Harold Hahn created for his model (based on the original British Admiralty drawings) the only other one I have found is in the book History of American Sailing Ships by Howard Chapelle.
  18. I grew up in the Boston area through the mid 1970's and worked next door to South Station. I walked by the Boston Tea Party ship (which I believe was the brig) all the time. For some reason, I never did get to visit it although I did visit the USS Constitution (my next build if I ever get to it). I wasn't aware they had a second "Tea" ship as I haven't been back since I left so long ago. I still have to finish Chapter 8 and start and finish Chapter 9 before I can start on the 2 chapters of rigging for Rattlesnake. Is there a website where there are pictures of the rigging project? It always helps to see the real thing to know what the model is suppose to look like.
  19. Once they sanded, poly-wiped, they didn’t look too bad. They were installed in their respective positions on the model. End Chapter 5
  20. So in the end, I felt like I cheated when I used the grating provided with the kit.
  21. Scuttles The scuttles are constructed like small hatches except they have a small lip around the outside edge using the table saw. Gratings I tried, believe me I tried, to make the gratings using the Byrnes table saw following the Practicum instructions. Each cut has to be exact and precisely on the money. Mine weren’t. Every attempt had flaws that were not acceptable
  22. Remaining Hatches All of the remaining hatches frames on this deck were constructed the same way. The frame made use of lap joints.
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