JSGerson

I am taking my canopy frame fabrication cues from several builders but am using 1/32” brass tube instead of 1/32” brass rod as many other builders have used for the vertical components. This allows me to use a continuous vertical component, passing through the junction blocks and decorative balls to just beyond the top railing. Then the overhead canopy support made of 0.02” brass rod can be inserted into the 1/32” tube creating a strong mechanical connection. The 0.06” blocks will only support the horizontal rails with no stress. The brass balls are strictly ornamental and provide no support. The tricky part is where the canopy arches all meet at the top. A hub piece will be used to connect all the arches plus the finial. The finial is to be comprised of a rod and tube configuration (TBD), and filed into its final shape and inserted into the hub. The vertical framework base will be inserted into rings made from 1/16” tubes, embedded into the grating wood frames. Here is a summary of the materials:
Base of vertical component: 1/16” brass tube – K&S Engineering No. 5125 Vertical component: 1/32” brass tube– K&S Engineering No. 815035 Horizontal component: 1/32” brass rod - K&S Engineering No. Junction blocks: 0.06” Styrene square rod – Evergreen No. 223 Ornament: 1/32” brass balls – Tribal Desert from Etsy Junction hub: 3/32” styrene tube – Evergreen No. 153 So here is my plan based on the US Navy plans and the trial prototypes of the vertical components and the canopy hub element to see if this would work. The prototype is purely concept, so it is not adjusted for proper dimensions or glued and yet it stands on its own. The final image shows the styrene painted brass. It appears it just might work.

I am taking my canopy frame fabrication cues from several builders but am using 1/32” brass tube instead of 1/32” brass rod as many other builders have used for the vertical components. This allows me to use a continuous vertical component, passing through the junction blocks and decorative balls to just beyond the top railing. Then the overhead canopy support made of 0.02” brass rod can be inserted into the 1/32” tube creating a strong mechanical connection. The 0.06” blocks will only support the horizontal rails with no stress. The brass balls are strictly ornamental and provide no support. The tricky part is where the canopy arches all meet at the top. A hub piece will be used to connect all the arches plus the finial. The finial is to be comprised of a rod and tube configuration (TBD), and filed into its final shape and inserted into the hub. The vertical framework base will be inserted into rings made from 1/16” tubes, embedded into the grating wood frames. Here is a summary of the materials:
Base of vertical component: 1/16” brass tube – K&S Engineering No. 5125 Vertical component: 1/32” brass tube– K&S Engineering No. 815035 Horizontal component: 1/32” brass rod - K&S Engineering No. Junction blocks: 0.06” Styrene square rod – Evergreen No. 223 Ornament: 1/32” brass balls – Tribal Desert from Etsy Junction hub: 3/32” styrene tube – Evergreen No. 153 So here is my plan based on the US Navy plans and the trial prototypes of the vertical components and the canopy hub element to see if this would work. The prototype is purely concept, so it is not adjusted for proper dimensions or glued and yet it stands on its own. The final image shows the styrene painted brass. It appears it just might work.

I'll add that to my list of a metal lathe, 3-D printer, router, and dedicated drill press.😁

Per your request, here are the additional images I have for the anchors:
BTW, great planking!
 
Jon
[hor

I'll add that to my list of a metal lathe, 3-D printer, router, and dedicated drill press.😁

I'll add that to my list of a metal lathe, 3-D printer, router, and dedicated drill press.😁

As always, fantastic woodworking skills. Well done!
 
Jon

Peter, Ken Forman (xKen) is a master of metal work, so he made his scroll work out brass plate and solder and he did a beautiful job. Like him, my scroll work was fabricated from smaller pieces but I used 1/64" boxwood instead metal. I actually wanted to carve finer detail into the scroll work, but I didn't have the skills or tools to get the effect I wanted. But, from a foot away, the results were acceptable. I actually found creating the fiddlehead and the cheek knees much more difficult and I wasn't fully satisfied with those results either. Take your time, make trial pieces, and have patience and tenacity, and I have faith you'll will get it done.
 
Jon

Peter, Ken Forman (xKen) is a master of metal work, so he made his scroll work out brass plate and solder and he did a beautiful job. Like him, my scroll work was fabricated from smaller pieces but I used 1/64" boxwood instead metal. I actually wanted to carve finer detail into the scroll work, but I didn't have the skills or tools to get the effect I wanted. But, from a foot away, the results were acceptable. I actually found creating the fiddlehead and the cheek knees much more difficult and I wasn't fully satisfied with those results either. Take your time, make trial pieces, and have patience and tenacity, and I have faith you'll will get it done.
 
Jon

Peter, Ken Forman (xKen) is a master of metal work, so he made his scroll work out brass plate and solder and he did a beautiful job. Like him, my scroll work was fabricated from smaller pieces but I used 1/64" boxwood instead metal. I actually wanted to carve finer detail into the scroll work, but I didn't have the skills or tools to get the effect I wanted. But, from a foot away, the results were acceptable. I actually found creating the fiddlehead and the cheek knees much more difficult and I wasn't fully satisfied with those results either. Take your time, make trial pieces, and have patience and tenacity, and I have faith you'll will get it done.
 
Jon

Peter, Ken Forman (xKen) is a master of metal work, so he made his scroll work out brass plate and solder and he did a beautiful job. Like him, my scroll work was fabricated from smaller pieces but I used 1/64" boxwood instead metal. I actually wanted to carve finer detail into the scroll work, but I didn't have the skills or tools to get the effect I wanted. But, from a foot away, the results were acceptable. I actually found creating the fiddlehead and the cheek knees much more difficult and I wasn't fully satisfied with those results either. Take your time, make trial pieces, and have patience and tenacity, and I have faith you'll will get it done.
 
Jon

However, using the 2nd rails to dry-fit the rail supports, I soon found out that the rail supports did not fit properly between the rail and the stem. Then, reading section 8.1.4 in the practicum about installing the “2nd rail from the top” I discovered that Mr. Hunt also ran into this problem. He believed through his investigation, that the MS plans were in error for the shape of the rail supports. I then checked the US Navy plans and there were only very slight differences that I could discern, so both Mr. Hunt and I don’t know where or what error(s) occurred. His solution was to fabricate and install the 2nd rail first, then custom fabricate and fit the rail supports then, work backwards to install the 3rd rails last. Because I only glued the 3rd rail to the starboard side at just one point, it was relatively easily to pry the rail off to continue following the practicum’s solution.
 
Going back over the practicum instructions, I noticed the practicum’s instruction for fabricating and installing the 2nd rail weren’t correct. The first error was to use the MS plan profile (elevation) view of the rail directly from the MS plan. Unfortunately, this is a foreshortened view because the rails are angled from the hull inwards towards the tip of the bow stem as indicated in the plan view. (I had this same foreshortening problem when I constructed the transom) To get the true view, that is the true length of the rails, I scanned the elevation view of the rail into my computer, using PowerPoint, rotated the image to match the angle of the rail in the plan view, then stretched the image till it matched the length shown in the plan view. Only then could I print the image with the proper rail length and make a template.

I really don't know where the problem lies, my technique, proper type of tools, quality of tools, or my skills. The one thing I couldn't try was a slower drill speed. My old Dremel drill press can only accept my one speed plug-in Dremel drill and not my cordless variable speed Dremel. I think it will work out OK with using Styrene for this one component.
 
Jon

I really don't know where the problem lies, my technique, proper type of tools, quality of tools, or my skills. The one thing I couldn't try was a slower drill speed. My old Dremel drill press can only accept my one speed plug-in Dremel drill and not my cordless variable speed Dremel. I think it will work out OK with using Styrene for this one component.
 
Jon

Another quick update on brass drilling. Yes, the new bits drilled through the brass...until they didn't.  If you look back, I made a diagram of how I was going to the drill brass blocks. Basically, each block requires two holes, some passing all the way through the block, and others only halfway. Each block required two set ups on the drill press. I was lucky if my new drill bits lasted two blocks before they quickly dulled up or broke. On moment they were drilling, the next they weren't. One didn't even drill from the start. I actually bought bits from three sources, my original bits from either Model Expo or Micro-Mark, a full set from AliExpress, and two Gyros #75 packages and one Gyros #67 each containing 12 bits/pkg. The AliExpress #67 bit broke immediately upon touching the brass and the #75 went dull. The Gyros went dull after a couple of holes. I was using a light touch, not  jamming the drill into the brass.
 
After all this, I don't have much to show for my efforts, just two cleanly drilled brass blocks. So I will admit defeat and go to plan B, Styrene plastic. The drill bits cut through in seconds, and cutting the blocks off from the bar requires just a sharp knife instead of a fine tooth saw or cutting disk. Hopefully, the brass painted blocks will blend in with all the brass rod that make up the canopies. 

Just a quick update. I finally got to play with my new drill bits (which I put aside while making the skylight) and they work just fine drilling into brass, so I'll working on the canopy frames once again.
 
Jon

Just a quick update. I finally got to play with my new drill bits (which I put aside while making the skylight) and they work just fine drilling into brass, so I'll working on the canopy frames once again.
 
Jon

I met Ken (a professional model builder) and his wife at the 2016 NRG conference in San Diego CA while he was still building his USS Constitution model (you'll find my two cents comments and contributions in his build log). Since he finished that build he designed, built the prototype, and wrote the manual for the Model Shipways' USS Constitution cross section model kit. And to top that  off he did the same for the Model Trailways 1869 Allerton Steam Fire Pumper. He also written a couple of books on how to machine brass parts on a mill and lathe. He is an awfully nice guy and would probably answer any questions posed to him, but I doubt he still follows Conny build logs because he moved on to other projects.
 
Jon

TBE - I have Olof A. Eriksen's book Constitution - All Sails Up and Flying that you linked to in your post, but the link was for the whole book excerpt and not anything specific, so I don't know what specifically you wanted me to see. The book deals and rigging and sails, with a little history, and not so much the structure of the ship. He also has a few photos of his various models of the Constitution. His masterpiece was his 1:24 1812 scale model. Unfortunately I could not find any detail photos of his models.
 
The USS Constitution Museum talks about the 1812 Hull model exhibited in the Peabody Essex Museum. Although the Peabody Museum does not show any images of this exhibit, a good collection of them can be found at Fine Scale Modeler Magazine's website. I have found a few more images over the years.
 
The open waist was reintroduced by the US Navy with this plan below. It was an attempt to return to the 1812 configuration. The 1992 cross section plan showing the waterway and plank sheer was drawn the same time the open waist returned. You could use this as a guide.
 
I am not an historical expert, but I just have a lot of "stuff." Nobody really knows what the ship looked in her early days, just educated guesses, so you have some artistic freedom. As I have always said, your making a model of the ship, not a miniature reconstruction.
 
I hopes this helps
 
Jon
 
 
 

TBE - I have Olof A. Eriksen's book Constitution - All Sails Up and Flying that you linked to in your post, but the link was for the whole book excerpt and not anything specific, so I don't know what specifically you wanted me to see. The book deals and rigging and sails, with a little history, and not so much the structure of the ship. He also has a few photos of his various models of the Constitution. His masterpiece was his 1:24 1812 scale model. Unfortunately I could not find any detail photos of his models.
 
The USS Constitution Museum talks about the 1812 Hull model exhibited in the Peabody Essex Museum. Although the Peabody Museum does not show any images of this exhibit, a good collection of them can be found at Fine Scale Modeler Magazine's website. I have found a few more images over the years.
 
The open waist was reintroduced by the US Navy with this plan below. It was an attempt to return to the 1812 configuration. The 1992 cross section plan showing the waterway and plank sheer was drawn the same time the open waist returned. You could use this as a guide.
 
I am not an historical expert, but I just have a lot of "stuff." Nobody really knows what the ship looked in her early days, just educated guesses, so you have some artistic freedom. As I have always said, your making a model of the ship, not a miniature reconstruction.
 
I hopes this helps
 
Jon
 
 
 

Per your request, here are the additional images I have for the anchors:
BTW, great planking!
 
Jon
[hor

TBE - I have Olof A. Eriksen's book Constitution - All Sails Up and Flying that you linked to in your post, but the link was for the whole book excerpt and not anything specific, so I don't know what specifically you wanted me to see. The book deals and rigging and sails, with a little history, and not so much the structure of the ship. He also has a few photos of his various models of the Constitution. His masterpiece was his 1:24 1812 scale model. Unfortunately I could not find any detail photos of his models.
 
The USS Constitution Museum talks about the 1812 Hull model exhibited in the Peabody Essex Museum. Although the Peabody Museum does not show any images of this exhibit, a good collection of them can be found at Fine Scale Modeler Magazine's website. I have found a few more images over the years.
 
The open waist was reintroduced by the US Navy with this plan below. It was an attempt to return to the 1812 configuration. The 1992 cross section plan showing the waterway and plank sheer was drawn the same time the open waist returned. You could use this as a guide.
 
I am not an historical expert, but I just have a lot of "stuff." Nobody really knows what the ship looked in her early days, just educated guesses, so you have some artistic freedom. As I have always said, your making a model of the ship, not a miniature reconstruction.
 
I hopes this helps
 
Jon
 
 
 

The topgallant rail was added during the 1927-31 restoration. It was subsequently removed during the 2007 -10 restoration (I believe) after it was determined to be historical inaccurate. The MS kit is based on the 1927-31 restoration which why its part of the MS model. So, all USS Constitution builders must decide what era their model represents...the earlier in the build the better.
 
Jon

With lots of tenacity and patience, I was able to place the four wire pieces in ascending order, longest to shortest, from base to the top of the windowpane. The wires were initially held in place with a very fine drop of PVA glue at one end of each wire. This glue was used so I had time to maneuver the wire into their final positions. Once the glue set up, CA glue was used to secure the wire at their other ends.
In the end, the skylight which fits on a US quarter coin, is comprised of 82 separate parts:
1 Base with six faces
each base face - 4 base frame pieces x 6 f aces = 24 pieces 1 Dome support wire 1 Dome 1 base plate 6 Window panels each consisting of:
4 window frames = 24 pieces 1 piece mica = 6 pieces 4 pieces wire = 24 pieces I’m not trying to make excuses, but with 82 separate parts, those tiny precision errors add up. On this scale, my novice workmanship is showing with these closeup images. It’s something I’ll have to live with it. The skylight will put aside till it’s time for its installation. Now, back to working on the canopy frames.

The topgallant rail was added during the 1927-31 restoration. It was subsequently removed during the 2007 -10 restoration (I believe) after it was determined to be historical inaccurate. The MS kit is based on the 1927-31 restoration which why its part of the MS model. So, all USS Constitution builders must decide what era their model represents...the earlier in the build the better.
 
Jon