JSGerson

The windows panes were made from mica cut to size and fastened on the backside with CA glue. Just a fine drop was all that was needed for capillary action to suck in the glue between the wood frame and mica lying on it

The side border framework was made from 1/16” x 1/32” boxwood.

I have the US Navy gun & carriage plans for the Conny should you want them. I have already submitted them to other builders as well.
 
Jon

Glad to be of help.  As always, if you need any additional pictures or plans, just ask.
 
Jon

I am taking my canopy frame fabrication cues from several builders but am using 1/32” brass tube instead of 1/32” brass rod as many other builders have used for the vertical components. This allows me to use a continuous vertical component, passing through the junction blocks and decorative balls to just beyond the top railing. Then the overhead canopy support made of 0.02” brass rod can be inserted into the 1/32” tube creating a strong mechanical connection. The 0.06” blocks will only support the horizontal rails with no stress. The brass balls are strictly ornamental and provide no support. The tricky part is where the canopy arches all meet at the top. A hub piece will be used to connect all the arches plus the finial. The finial is to be comprised of a rod and tube configuration (TBD), and filed into its final shape and inserted into the hub. The vertical framework base will be inserted into rings made from 1/16” tubes, embedded into the grating wood frames. Here is a summary of the materials:
Base of vertical component: 1/16” brass tube – K&S Engineering No. 5125 Vertical component: 1/32” brass tube– K&S Engineering No. 815035 Horizontal component: 1/32” brass rod - K&S Engineering No. Junction blocks: 0.06” Styrene square rod – Evergreen No. 223 Ornament: 1/32” brass balls – Tribal Desert from Etsy Junction hub: 3/32” styrene tube – Evergreen No. 153 So here is my plan based on the US Navy plans and the trial prototypes of the vertical components and the canopy hub element to see if this would work. The prototype is purely concept, so it is not adjusted for proper dimensions or glued and yet it stands on its own. The final image shows the styrene painted brass. It appears it just might work.

Peter, Ken Forman (xKen) is a master of metal work, so he made his scroll work out brass plate and solder and he did a beautiful job. Like him, my scroll work was fabricated from smaller pieces but I used 1/64" boxwood instead metal. I actually wanted to carve finer detail into the scroll work, but I didn't have the skills or tools to get the effect I wanted. But, from a foot away, the results were acceptable. I actually found creating the fiddlehead and the cheek knees much more difficult and I wasn't fully satisfied with those results either. Take your time, make trial pieces, and have patience and tenacity, and I have faith you'll will get it done.
 
Jon

Glad to be of help.  As always, if you need any additional pictures or plans, just ask.
 
Jon

Glad to be of help.  As always, if you need any additional pictures or plans, just ask.
 
Jon

I am by no means an expert on "blackening," but it appears to me that the brass may still have had some fine residual oil remaining on the metal from the turning or casting process (which ever was used) or even your fingers. I usually clean the metal with acetone first. You may have done that, in which case try rubbing off the blackening, This may absorb what ever substance is covering those bare spots. Clean once more with acetone and blacken again.
 
Still no luck? Then you presented the choices yourself, keep or paint. The argument for paint is that the rest of the ship looks pristine, fresh out of shipyard and the paint will make the guns look new. But I do like the weathered look that you achieved. 
 
I don't know if I helped or hindered.
 
Jon

My vote is for the dark gray.
 
Jon

My vote is for the dark gray.
 
Jon

I feel better knowing the barrels can be separated. Very nice job. Are going to show any additional details on your blog?
 
Jon

I feel better knowing the barrels can be separated. Very nice job. Are going to show any additional details on your blog?
 
Jon

My vote is for the dark gray.
 
Jon

My vote is for the dark gray.
 
Jon

I am by no means an expert on "blackening," but it appears to me that the brass may still have had some fine residual oil remaining on the metal from the turning or casting process (which ever was used) or even your fingers. I usually clean the metal with acetone first. You may have done that, in which case try rubbing off the blackening, This may absorb what ever substance is covering those bare spots. Clean once more with acetone and blacken again.
 
Still no luck? Then you presented the choices yourself, keep or paint. The argument for paint is that the rest of the ship looks pristine, fresh out of shipyard and the paint will make the guns look new. But I do like the weathered look that you achieved. 
 
I don't know if I helped or hindered.
 
Jon

I am by no means an expert on "blackening," but it appears to me that the brass may still have had some fine residual oil remaining on the metal from the turning or casting process (which ever was used) or even your fingers. I usually clean the metal with acetone first. You may have done that, in which case try rubbing off the blackening, This may absorb what ever substance is covering those bare spots. Clean once more with acetone and blacken again.
 
Still no luck? Then you presented the choices yourself, keep or paint. The argument for paint is that the rest of the ship looks pristine, fresh out of shipyard and the paint will make the guns look new. But I do like the weathered look that you achieved. 
 
I don't know if I helped or hindered.
 
Jon

I checked the US Navy plans and got the following gun lengths:
Carronades:
British Style: 5' 1 7/8" => scale: 0.81" (13/16") or 20.5 mm 1812 Style: 5' 5" => scale: 0.85" (27/32") or 21.6 mm 32 pdr: 10' 9 1/8" => scale: 1.7" (1 45/64") or 43.2 mm
24 pdr: 10' 1 1/4" => scale: 1.6" (39/64") or 40.6 mm
 
Jon

I am by no means an expert on "blackening," but it appears to me that the brass may still have had some fine residual oil remaining on the metal from the turning or casting process (which ever was used) or even your fingers. I usually clean the metal with acetone first. You may have done that, in which case try rubbing off the blackening, This may absorb what ever substance is covering those bare spots. Clean once more with acetone and blacken again.
 
Still no luck? Then you presented the choices yourself, keep or paint. The argument for paint is that the rest of the ship looks pristine, fresh out of shipyard and the paint will make the guns look new. But I do like the weathered look that you achieved. 
 
I don't know if I helped or hindered.
 
Jon

I checked the US Navy plans and got the following gun lengths:
Carronades:
British Style: 5' 1 7/8" => scale: 0.81" (13/16") or 20.5 mm 1812 Style: 5' 5" => scale: 0.85" (27/32") or 21.6 mm 32 pdr: 10' 9 1/8" => scale: 1.7" (1 45/64") or 43.2 mm
24 pdr: 10' 1 1/4" => scale: 1.6" (39/64") or 40.6 mm
 
Jon

I checked the US Navy plans and got the following gun lengths:
Carronades:
British Style: 5' 1 7/8" => scale: 0.81" (13/16") or 20.5 mm 1812 Style: 5' 5" => scale: 0.85" (27/32") or 21.6 mm 32 pdr: 10' 9 1/8" => scale: 1.7" (1 45/64") or 43.2 mm
24 pdr: 10' 1 1/4" => scale: 1.6" (39/64") or 40.6 mm
 
Jon

Peter, Ken Forman (xKen) is a master of metal work, so he made his scroll work out brass plate and solder and he did a beautiful job. Like him, my scroll work was fabricated from smaller pieces but I used 1/64" boxwood instead metal. I actually wanted to carve finer detail into the scroll work, but I didn't have the skills or tools to get the effect I wanted. But, from a foot away, the results were acceptable. I actually found creating the fiddlehead and the cheek knees much more difficult and I wasn't fully satisfied with those results either. Take your time, make trial pieces, and have patience and tenacity, and I have faith you'll will get it done.
 
Jon

I am taking my canopy frame fabrication cues from several builders but am using 1/32” brass tube instead of 1/32” brass rod as many other builders have used for the vertical components. This allows me to use a continuous vertical component, passing through the junction blocks and decorative balls to just beyond the top railing. Then the overhead canopy support made of 0.02” brass rod can be inserted into the 1/32” tube creating a strong mechanical connection. The 0.06” blocks will only support the horizontal rails with no stress. The brass balls are strictly ornamental and provide no support. The tricky part is where the canopy arches all meet at the top. A hub piece will be used to connect all the arches plus the finial. The finial is to be comprised of a rod and tube configuration (TBD), and filed into its final shape and inserted into the hub. The vertical framework base will be inserted into rings made from 1/16” tubes, embedded into the grating wood frames. Here is a summary of the materials:
Base of vertical component: 1/16” brass tube – K&S Engineering No. 5125 Vertical component: 1/32” brass tube– K&S Engineering No. 815035 Horizontal component: 1/32” brass rod - K&S Engineering No. Junction blocks: 0.06” Styrene square rod – Evergreen No. 223 Ornament: 1/32” brass balls – Tribal Desert from Etsy Junction hub: 3/32” styrene tube – Evergreen No. 153 So here is my plan based on the US Navy plans and the trial prototypes of the vertical components and the canopy hub element to see if this would work. The prototype is purely concept, so it is not adjusted for proper dimensions or glued and yet it stands on its own. The final image shows the styrene painted brass. It appears it just might work.

Gregg, My error, the USS Constitution carronades are still listed on Model Monkey. Thanks for the correction. But they are still expensive.
 
Jon