72Nova

And what might be your next masterpiece Kirill?

Michael D.

I figured it was a good time to work on the davits and started the modifications by eliminating the diagonal support and adding misc styrene on the underside of the rail to create a tapering effect and modifying the front support, a steel rod will replace the support, the picture should show the work in progress modified version vs the kit version. A mock revealed the davits follow the same angle as the benches which surprised me as one would think they'd be perpendicular to the rails, but in this case the stanchion is in the way and since I already have the port side railings installed I'm okay with this.

The other thing I wanted to check is the clearance between the sheet line and boat and looks like I have plenty. Back to the ship yard.

Michael D.

Hi Bill,

Yes it will be similar and I'll do a quick mock up for you of that as well, plus it gives me a chance to see how it actually looks on the model and make any necessary adjustments to suit the eye, at this scale one could eliminate the ring and just use the eye bolt and look good.

Michael D.

A picture of the completed bowline and braces, tied off all the rigging thus far and glued in the fore mast.

Michael D.

You're welcome Bill, There's 2 separate ropes, I just illustrated the inside rope that would be lead through the gun port. I do not like those deadeyes, but if you want to use them it should not be hard to make your own back piece to create that groove. The smallest deadeyes I've found are 2.5mm and might look ok.

Michael D.

Here ya go Bill, I used 2mm eye bolts with reduced dia, wire thickness is 0.36mm and #60 bobbin thread on the smallest gun port lid, actually looks pretty good and not too far out of scale, I have to tell you I wouldn't want to work with any smaller scale then this. Hope this helps.

Michael D.

You nailed Kirill, looks very nice and functional.👍

Michael D.

Thank you Frank. A crowning moment in finishing up the main shrouds and lanyards and started the bowline along with temporary lines and weights on the vangs to somewhat stabilize the yard while I rigged the braces, a single block stropped and tied to an eye bolt in the deck, the line is tied to the bight of the strop and lead through the double block and will be tied to the chain, I still need to add the tackle at the end of the yard and complete the tackle for the vangs before finishing up the braces.

Michael D.

Superb display of your craftsmanship , well done Maurice!!

Michael D.

Bill,

Looking at your picture I'm confident I can make it work, I'll do a mock up on a gun port lid and let you be the judge.

Michael D.

Clever use of some spare parts there Bill, looks good👍. I will be using 2mm eye bolts and nip a section out of the eye and close it back up and should look very close to scale.

Michael D.

Well done Kirill, did you use a modeling clay for the muzzle?

Michael D.

I addressed an area in the middle deck that's been annoying me for a while, the Heller deck section stops far too short and leaves a void so I fabricated 2 sections cover the area, I still need to fashion some handles as these would need to be removable to access the tackle..all in all it's looks ok.

Michael D.

Brilliantly done Marc or should I say Michael Angelo!!. I assume you're using mostly fresh exacto blades or equivalent?. I struggled a bit figuring out how I was going to tackle Victory's figurehead and settled on sculpy modeling clay. Quite the master piece you have there.

Michael D.

Hi Kirill,

I totally agree with you on all counts and really the only resolution is to scratch build the ship to as exact scale as possible and  one can spend a decade and easily more on such a project. I thought I provided a link in Marc's build log?, granted It's only pictures....HMS Victory of 1765 - Google Photos

Michael D.

Kirill regarding the rudder, the logical thinking to me would be the pendant whether single or double would lead to the deck  where one can have some control of it as illustrated in the William Rex photo or thru the transom  like in your last picture. Do you plan to rig the fish pendant tackle also?, it's seldom ever seen rigged on models mainly because it would be removed once the anchor is secured, but just adds that much more detail. I rigged it on the starboard side of my Victory.

Michael D.

This is too cool!, love it!!, nice work!

Michael D.

Clearly there's a rope ladder in the last pictures Kirill posted, but looks like a later period galley?. The bunt line rigging is completed and brought down to an eyebolt in the deck at the base of the mast, also I had to redo the tackle for the stay, now it's setup similar to a breast backstay purchase.

Michael D.

Thanks for the heads up Bill, that would the fore bitts and bolin is correct on the location, usually there are belay pins incorporated into the rail, but maybe not in the case of the Vasa. Looking at the plans there appears to be 4 eye/ring bolts in the deck?, bolin are those plans available to purchase?.

Michael D.

Great question Marc as I wondered about this myself and Kirill's explanation seems valid, but maybe some kind of lift/tackle  system was used?, or they just shimmied up the ropes. Here's and interesting model and the first I've seen with ratlines. I just love the look of this model.

Michael D.

Thank you as always for your kind comments Maurice. The Starboard shrouds and lanyards are complete with the exception of tying them off, I started the rigging at the mast head for the bunt line.

Michael D.

I've been following most of your builds for a long time now and they just keep getting and better. If I were ever to take on a wooden kit, get my feet wet so to speak this might be it. Looking great so far!.

Michael D.

I ordered a bottle of that Plaid folk arts 817, looks promising and will try it out on the Vasa, thanks for that tip Kirill👍.  Well It's out of stock, actually I think it's discontinued and I inquired about it on another website, awaiting a response, but looks like a no go.

Michael D.

Thank you Rich, I try to keep things simple. Kirill it must be the flash, I noticed the smaller lines do look brighter in the photos, but it's not that bright in person, I'm using Amati natural rigging line.

Michael D.

I like your technique and the use of the wire brush, your graining looks fantastic also. My process after removing all flash etc, is sanding the part with 80 grit sandpaper and a light sanding with 220 grit, I feel the deeper scratches allow the darker color to settle in, no primer just straight to tamiya desert yellow using a soft 1/4" wide brush, once dried I use an artist acrylic Raw Umber, for the benches etc I use it right out of tube with a stiffer bristled brush to achieve a darker appearance, for the masts I use the same desert yellow base, but apply the first coat of Raw Umber as a thin wash and once that dries I go back over it, but do not thin the paint to create the darker streaks, occasionally wiping any excess off with my fingers then I seal everything with dulcoat, even though I'm only using 2 colors it looks like more. Hope that helps Kirill?.

I started the shrouds and lanyards.

Michael D.