Piet

Hi Anthony, yes, I quite frequently browse through Amazon and several other online bookstores, including rare and out of print stores.  Not much luck price wise though but I'm not giving up 
 
Cheers,

A chart room.... lets's see. look now, Piet's getting carried away already
 
First the chimney, I was looking through my books because these came in al sorts and shapes
 

 
But fortunately TFFM hinted me to also check my NMM plans and guess what the chimney was drawn in so getting the shape right was easy peasy. (reminder look more on the NMM plans there is more on it than I had thought)
 
The pyramid shape was diver soldered from some scrap pieces, the funnel turned and tapered on the lathe. 
 

 
The floor was added in front of the stove. And here it is ready to be lit this was really a fun challenge to do, thank you Druxey for inspiring me to give it a try.
 

 

 
Remco

Daniel
 
Here are close-ups. If you need explanation, just post here or by PM, as you wish
 
 

Hello dear friends and thank you warmly for your kind words and recognition, I am extremely honored!!

Well, I must say that I was so much nervous during filming the reportage. My students helped me a lot, I like them very much. We are friends.
 I'm glad that was paid attention on TV to this beautiful hobby that connects us all together.
 
On Royal Caroline I have improved and added another details. Please, enjoy the pics and have a great time.

Best regards,
Doris
 








 
 

  

Thank you Greg - no, the case made it to the bedroom but I DID turn on the workshop lights on my way past .
 
 
Garry ..... is that you ? Thanks Steve .
 
Thank you too John.
 
Upper Finishing
 
Work continues on the Quarter Badge. Here is the Upper Finishing under construction. I made it from English Box. The first step was to cut out the lower portion to fit around the bell :
 

 
Then I finessed the inner face to fit tight against the hull planking :
 

 
The outer face was sanded down to fit the curvature of the upper stool :
 

 
Then the upper section was cut on the scroll saw :
 

 
Finally it was rounded off. The flat section on the top will support a carving of a Crown, and the whole piece will be textured :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks Druxey, actually it was quite easy. The hardest parts were shaping the molding around the end return and the small notch above the rudder hinge. Cutting the bevel only took one go (I must be getting better at doing things like that "by eye" ).
 
Quarter Badge Stools and Munions
 
This looked like being quite a challenge, but thanks to the instructions and tips in TFFM they haven't been too difficult so far (I haven't got to the Carving part yet though   ). I'm only fitting a Badge to the Port side.
 
The first pieces to be made, which the success of the rest depend on, are the Upper and Lower Stools. These took some careful measuring and marking out to get the right angles. In fact, I had a failure with the lower stool - I didn't have enough angle from the vertical (12 degrees) the first time I glued it in and had to get the Isopropyl out and have a second go. No biggie .
 
I took the shape of the stools straight from the drawing in TFFM and cut two identical pieces. These need slightly different bevels on their inboard edges to keep the stools horizontal athwartships. Here is one stool ready for gluing in, the molding on the edge has already been scraped in :
 

 
To assist in gluing them to the correct angle I used masking tape :
 

 
The upper stool is quite a bit trickier to make than the lower one. It consists of three parts with a "bell" shaped piece in the middle. To make the centre piece I first cut out the lower portion from some thick stock, sanded the outer face to conform with the lower stool, then scraped the molding, and finally sanded the outer portion to shape on the disc sander :
 

 

 

 
The joints are cut at a 45 degree angle. I glued the three pieces together before bevelling the assembly :
 

 
To ensure both stools were perfectly parallel I used a piece of scrap with two bevels sanded into it as a spacer. The 2nd pic shows the spacer in use, but was only my 1st attempt before I realised I'd got the angle wrong :
 

 

 
Take two, after I got the angles right :
 

 
Last step to this stage, I've fitted the four Munions - more tricky angles, all done on the disc sander. The rough bit of cutting into the Sheer Strake above the bell will be covered by the Upper Finishing later on :
 

 
  Danny

Hello all,
 
Finally an update, it was long overdue.
 
The railings and the grating at the bow section are in place. They just need a little touching up and staining.
Now I can really see where I made the mistakes. Before placing the railings I wish I had thought of using a template to get the right angles/roundings like J. (JCT) did on his Half Moon.
But that is water under the bridge and something to keep in mind for future reference.
The rudder is also in place.
 
Tomorrow it is time to start shaping the masts and spars.
 
Thanks for watching.
 
Anja
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hoi Marc,
 
I too love everything nautical of the Dutch!  VOC and the fishing vessels.  Of course also the naval war ships.  I wish I could afford the purchase price of the many books available, either in Dutch or English.
 
Cheers,

Title: The Ships of Abel Tasman
Author(s): Ab Hoving & Cor Emke with an introduction by Peter Sigmond
Year: 2000
Publisher: Verloren, Hilversum, The Netherlands
Language: English
Edition: First
ISBN: 90-6550-087-1
Pages: 144
Book Type: Softcover
Extra: This box contains a book (Dutch, English or German), 40 printed drawings scale 1:75 and a cd-rom.

The cd-rom includes Plans for both the Heemskerck - yacht and the Zeehaen - fluit for the following metric scales: 1:50, 1:87.5, 1:100 and 1:150.
The plans are in HPLT format. Any decent CAD app. can read this. I use TurboCAD Deluxe 20 and it reads it well.
The cd-rom also includes tabels in Microsoft Excel for Every measurement in Every scale and lots of pictures of the model, paintings of these types of ships and maps.

Summary:
As described in his preserved extract-journal, Abel Tasman had two ships under his command during his memorable voyage to the mysterious 'Southland' in 1642: the yacht 'Heemskerck' and the fluyt 'Zeehaen'. According to historian Peter Sigmond, head of the department of Dutch History of the Amsterdam Rijksmuseum, these ships can be placed in the same rank as ships like the 'Santa Maria', the 'Golden Hind' and the 'Endeavour'. Ab Hoving, head of the restoration department working for Sigmond, built models of these ships. Cor Emke has recorded the entire (experimental) building process on cad drawings. These drawings are not only printed but also recorded on cd-rom.
 
This cd-rom enables the model builder to examine and print each part of the ship in a scale selected by himself. In the book to which the cd-rom belongs, Peter Sigmond describes the historical background of Tasman's expedition. Original illustrations from Tasman's journal, and paintings and pictures of yachts and fluyts illustrate the narrative. The book also offers an analysis of seventeenth-century shipbuilding; an account of how the models were built; a typology of the ships Tasman sailed with and a lot of information from which anyone interested can make his own choice in order to construct his model.

My Personal Interest.
Some of the modelers in this site know that my interests is in Dutch ships, preferably VOC and flat & round bottom boats. For a couple of years I have been looking for boats to scratch built. To start with I am going to built the Statenjacht "Utrecht". From there on I wanted something larger, challenging and historical. As I read anything about the VOC I have been reading a lot about Australia (Anthony van Diemens landt), New Zealand (Named after the Dutch Provence Zeeland) and Tasmania (last name of the explorer). So decided that the Ships of Abel Tasman would be a challenge and different. (I enjoy building boats that very few people built).

I had difficulty obtaining the book, but found out that a member of my local nautical club, Bob F., had the book in possession and was willing to part with it. Purchased the book and have been reading it and studying the plans. The printed plans in the book are in scale 1:75 which is of a good size.   If I am energetic enough I may do the boats in scale 1:50.  I plan to do the jacht 'Heemskerck' first and when I have more experience with building do the fluit 'Zeehaen' last. The fluit looks so odd to me. Small waist (deck), big buttom (hull). Pear shaped boat with a large cargo bay near the waterline and a narrow deck.

For the members of this site that do not know what the purpose of a fluit was is the following: The Dutch had to pay high taxes to Denmark which was assessed based on the area of the main deck and this is how the fluit came about.  It was not built for conversion in wartime to a warship, so it was cheaper to build and carried twice the cargo, and could be handled by a smaller crew.
 
Minimized or completely eliminated its armaments to maximize available cargo space. Construction by specialized shipyards using new tools made it half the cost of rival ships. These factors combined to sharply lower the cost of transportation for Dutch merchants, giving them a major competitive advantage. Another advantage was a shallow draft which allowed the vessel to bring cargo in and out of ports and down rivers that other vessels couldn't reach.  The fluit gained such popularity that English merchants build similar looking ships.

Here is a link of a person in Germany that built the Zeehaen. Excellent built.
http://www.modelships.de/Fluyt-Zeehaen/Photos-ship-model-fluyt-Zeehaen_details.htm

Thank you for reading.
Marc

Hoi Remco, thanks for looking for your scrap box and the parts, no problem.  I'll do some browsing on the Internet and see what the model railroad folks have to offer.  I think that O gauge is 1:48 and on the old freight cars the hand brakes had similar hand wheels.
However, I have no problem with "home build" hand wheels that I can cement to the gun mount, not rotatable, just static.  It's all the other paraphernalia that comes with it.  See pic below.
 
Hi ho John, good to hear from you and thanks for your compliment - - - I lucked out with the hinges and lids.  I have been searching for your progress reports on your Morgan, where are they????  
Remco may need some wale oil for the lamps he should make for the captain's cabin 
 
Pretty much a lost day today, again a dental visit but the end is in sight   
I spend some time in fixing one minor hitch.  The snorkel intake guard was too far aft and interfered with the aft AA gun.  Then I made a bunch 1 X 1 mm slats for the deck planking.  Tedious work but it has to be done. 
Next step is to stain them in some teak looking stain.  I'm very curious in finding out how they'll look but according to the color chart it should be good, fingers crossed 
I also painted the decks again and the gun bun lids, they look quite nice 
 

This is a pic from the original factory drawings of the AA guns on the O19 when it was build.   To look at the pics Boris send they are a few pages back.
 

This is the same factory drawing with my gun model next to it for comparison.  As all yuns can see I need to do some modifying primarily on the top end.  I think I can do it and make it believable.  It'll be strictly stationary and as long as my guns kinda look similar then I'm a happy camper.
 
Cheers,

Fantastic looking hearth Remco and also the pots.  Now also a few ladles and pokers and other utensils they may have used.  And while you are at it with making charts you may as well make a few oil lamps for the captain's cabin.  John Texxn5 better get on the ball and cook off some wale oil to sell you   
 
Cheers,
 
 

Again my thanks to everyone who visited and clicked on like.
 
Hoi Remco, thanks for the idea for PE parts.  I agree that that would be the most logical way to arrive at a more accurate gun model but I needed to try my hand first at scratch making everything myself.  You think I'm being anal in wanting to make everything myself, including the ship's bell?  Yeah, I'm not happy with that plastic thing, it's a little too big anyhow.  
However, having said all that, realism and accuracy may take the overhand.  Yeah sure, look in your scrap box and when you come up with a set of 1:48 parts I'll gladly accept them       I'll be looking on the internet to find an outfit that makes nice hand wheels in 1:48.  Model trains come to mind.
 
There is a slight problem though, the gun mount I made is not quite like the one on the drawings.  Again, hindsight - - - I received the drawings from you and Boris after I already made the guns.  The upper part is where the difference comes in.  I have been thinking about this all day as I did some yard work.  I may have to remake the entire mount or at least the upper portion.  That last option seem to be the most viable because the lower part is close enough for me to work with.
It's the gun elevation mechanism I'm looking at.  It's a curved rack and pinion system and I can make a decent fixed look alike from brass sheet.  
The little hand wheels are done now and look quite decent.  I cemented them on with CA before I realized that I had to do something with the upper part of the mount.  So, I had to remove them again.  This left some cement residue that needs to be cleaned off or remake them.  This is not too much of a problem now that I have gained some experience in making them   
So for now I'm putting the guns aside till I have finalized my next step with these things, sketches and parts.   I have the time, it's not urgent to complete them right now   
 
I did manage to cement the gun bun lids to the styrene buns though    I'm quite happy with the way they turned out.  I'm ready to paint them and repaint the deck so I can glue the deck slats to the gun decks.  Then the railings.  That'll bring the upper part of the con to completion and on to the bottom part - - - the hinged doors 
 

Your hingework is ingenious....looks real....

Hi Piet, so I went to my scrap box only to find out I had scrapped the scrap box some time ago when I sold or threw away all my plastic kits. Of the kits I still have left I could not find appropriate sized handwheels. I looked on the internet and I think you guess pretty good that railway supply's are the best place to look. Sorry I couldn't help you out on this one....
 
Remco

Today I have got a surprise for you, there was another report on TV about my hobby and work ( i am a teacher at secondary school), so you can watch it here at this link:
http://www.ceskatelevize.cz/ivysilani/10122978233-udalosti-v-regionech-ostrava/414231100030117-udalosti-v-regionech/obsah/303453-modelarka-stavi-plachetnici-z-18-stoleti-i-s-posadkou/
 
Please, enjoy it and have a great time.
 

Hello dear friends,
I appreciate your support and kind words a lot, thank you for your feedback and good advise.
Well, I have changed the long wooden pole connected to the rudder - now it is in a right position ( I hope )  and also improved the helmsman's dress a little bit. The hat could be also good touch, but I would like to let helmsman´s head without changes ( I made him according to my friend from Czech forum and I want to preserve resemblance of his face and hair). Maybe I will make a hat and place it into his hand.




You are right that people on royal yacht wore their best uniforms, unfortunately I have only few pictures from museums that can help me to imagine, how to create dresses for some crew members. Please, if you have some pics, I will be very grateful for them.
 
 
I use medium dense cyanoacrylate adhesive, but it is important to apply accurately and in a small amount.
Here you can see, how I glue together clear parts using this adhesive:
 

 
 
And here are new pics of the model:
 




 
Kind regards,
Doris

Again my thanks to everyone who visited and clicked on like.
 
Hoi Remco, thanks for the idea for PE parts.  I agree that that would be the most logical way to arrive at a more accurate gun model but I needed to try my hand first at scratch making everything myself.  You think I'm being anal in wanting to make everything myself, including the ship's bell?  Yeah, I'm not happy with that plastic thing, it's a little too big anyhow.  
However, having said all that, realism and accuracy may take the overhand.  Yeah sure, look in your scrap box and when you come up with a set of 1:48 parts I'll gladly accept them       I'll be looking on the internet to find an outfit that makes nice hand wheels in 1:48.  Model trains come to mind.
 
There is a slight problem though, the gun mount I made is not quite like the one on the drawings.  Again, hindsight - - - I received the drawings from you and Boris after I already made the guns.  The upper part is where the difference comes in.  I have been thinking about this all day as I did some yard work.  I may have to remake the entire mount or at least the upper portion.  That last option seem to be the most viable because the lower part is close enough for me to work with.
It's the gun elevation mechanism I'm looking at.  It's a curved rack and pinion system and I can make a decent fixed look alike from brass sheet.  
The little hand wheels are done now and look quite decent.  I cemented them on with CA before I realized that I had to do something with the upper part of the mount.  So, I had to remove them again.  This left some cement residue that needs to be cleaned off or remake them.  This is not too much of a problem now that I have gained some experience in making them   
So for now I'm putting the guns aside till I have finalized my next step with these things, sketches and parts.   I have the time, it's not urgent to complete them right now   
 
I did manage to cement the gun bun lids to the styrene buns though    I'm quite happy with the way they turned out.  I'm ready to paint them and repaint the deck so I can glue the deck slats to the gun decks.  Then the railings.  That'll bring the upper part of the con to completion and on to the bottom part - - - the hinged doors 
 

Again my thanks to everyone who visited and clicked on like.
 
Hoi Remco, thanks for the idea for PE parts.  I agree that that would be the most logical way to arrive at a more accurate gun model but I needed to try my hand first at scratch making everything myself.  You think I'm being anal in wanting to make everything myself, including the ship's bell?  Yeah, I'm not happy with that plastic thing, it's a little too big anyhow.  
However, having said all that, realism and accuracy may take the overhand.  Yeah sure, look in your scrap box and when you come up with a set of 1:48 parts I'll gladly accept them       I'll be looking on the internet to find an outfit that makes nice hand wheels in 1:48.  Model trains come to mind.
 
There is a slight problem though, the gun mount I made is not quite like the one on the drawings.  Again, hindsight - - - I received the drawings from you and Boris after I already made the guns.  The upper part is where the difference comes in.  I have been thinking about this all day as I did some yard work.  I may have to remake the entire mount or at least the upper portion.  That last option seem to be the most viable because the lower part is close enough for me to work with.
It's the gun elevation mechanism I'm looking at.  It's a curved rack and pinion system and I can make a decent fixed look alike from brass sheet.  
The little hand wheels are done now and look quite decent.  I cemented them on with CA before I realized that I had to do something with the upper part of the mount.  So, I had to remove them again.  This left some cement residue that needs to be cleaned off or remake them.  This is not too much of a problem now that I have gained some experience in making them   
So for now I'm putting the guns aside till I have finalized my next step with these things, sketches and parts.   I have the time, it's not urgent to complete them right now   
 
I did manage to cement the gun bun lids to the styrene buns though    I'm quite happy with the way they turned out.  I'm ready to paint them and repaint the deck so I can glue the deck slats to the gun decks.  Then the railings.  That'll bring the upper part of the con to completion and on to the bottom part - - - the hinged doors 
 

Again my thanks to everyone who visited and clicked on like.
 
Hoi Remco, thanks for the idea for PE parts.  I agree that that would be the most logical way to arrive at a more accurate gun model but I needed to try my hand first at scratch making everything myself.  You think I'm being anal in wanting to make everything myself, including the ship's bell?  Yeah, I'm not happy with that plastic thing, it's a little too big anyhow.  
However, having said all that, realism and accuracy may take the overhand.  Yeah sure, look in your scrap box and when you come up with a set of 1:48 parts I'll gladly accept them       I'll be looking on the internet to find an outfit that makes nice hand wheels in 1:48.  Model trains come to mind.
 
There is a slight problem though, the gun mount I made is not quite like the one on the drawings.  Again, hindsight - - - I received the drawings from you and Boris after I already made the guns.  The upper part is where the difference comes in.  I have been thinking about this all day as I did some yard work.  I may have to remake the entire mount or at least the upper portion.  That last option seem to be the most viable because the lower part is close enough for me to work with.
It's the gun elevation mechanism I'm looking at.  It's a curved rack and pinion system and I can make a decent fixed look alike from brass sheet.  
The little hand wheels are done now and look quite decent.  I cemented them on with CA before I realized that I had to do something with the upper part of the mount.  So, I had to remove them again.  This left some cement residue that needs to be cleaned off or remake them.  This is not too much of a problem now that I have gained some experience in making them   
So for now I'm putting the guns aside till I have finalized my next step with these things, sketches and parts.   I have the time, it's not urgent to complete them right now   
 
I did manage to cement the gun bun lids to the styrene buns though    I'm quite happy with the way they turned out.  I'm ready to paint them and repaint the deck so I can glue the deck slats to the gun decks.  Then the railings.  That'll bring the upper part of the con to completion and on to the bottom part - - - the hinged doors 
 

Could not do much today due to other things I had to do with the admiral in St. Augustine but that gave me the chance to visit Hobby Lobby there.  Could not find what I'm looking for, it's more of a craft store rather then a hobby store    On to the internet for a search. 
 
As mentioned to Daniel in Spain I'm still working on the AA guns.  Right now I'm in the process of adding some detail items to them such as the elevation and rotation hand wheels and the elevation mechanism. I don't know yet how successful I'll be with either one because it's all so tiny but I'll give it an honest try 
 
I made four of the rims for these wheels but I need two more for the dingy tackle mechanism.  I think I made enough round rings for them all.
I am using 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes but if that proves too much of a struggle I'll have to resort to a strand of copper wire out of telephone wire and CA them to the rims, we'll see.
 
I have carved some wood away from the gun sides to accommodate these little hand wheels to allow them to go inside the buns. 
 
I'm anxious to start with the deck slats on the gun decks but I'll do these first now that I have started them.  The guns can always be fiddled with at any time because I can lift them out of the buns.
 

This picture shows the brass ring of 0.7 mm brass wire for the wheel rim with the 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes ready to be soldered.  I may tin the parts first and them hold the .1 mm wire with tweezers to tack them to the rim and then use a steel office clamp as  heat sink to solder the other end.  The second wire can be tacked on in the center, I think.  The diameter of the wheel is 5 mm.  I wound the .7 mm wire around a 5 mm pin punch and snipped a ring off it and then soldered it into a ring.
 

These are the four wheels in process of being made.  Even though the scale at 1:50 is rather large this stuff is still tiny to work with and make it half way decent looking.
 
Cheers,

Piet, maybe it's an idea to look for a simple PE set to add details to the gun or scavenge a 1/48 plastic artillery kit for parts ? I'll have a look in my scrap box for you.
 
Remco

Go forward in painting
 
Coloured, Her Majesty now seems so much longer no matter I removed bowsprit. She looks quite large ... and workshop desk looks quite small for further works. I must cook up something about this question
 

 

One more update
 
the first canons in place for testing position
it´s not easy to hold the ropes in position
 
  
 
 
 
Have fun
 
 

here a small update
 
the Blocks are now finished to takle on the Canons
 

 
 
The side takel had to be made once again because the hook and grummet were too long.
Everything carefully re-open (2 hooks broken) and a new strops. But this time in the correct length
 

The cannon rigging  part one

The Breech

The breeching tackle serves to prevent the gun after firing, to fly through over the deck. ( Secular terms )

Scientists would / express something else incomprehensible : mass times the muzzle velocity , including the air temperature and humidity = measured at the shoe size of the gunner .......... etc. etc. results in ::: A breeching takle is required !

The breeching tackle by the guns of the Royal Caroline was probably spliced ​​behind the breech around the trowel .

To install this required a device :

A bracket in the final length of the breeching takle and the cannon was to build.
Simultaneously, a device for positioning of the gun was used .

 

The gun barrel is inserted into the bore of the holder ; Breeching rope to the standoffs attached and the splice been marked on the dew.

 

The splice is a rope / thread in the strength of strands (3  or more strands laid together forming a rope)
The splice is then threaded into a needle and pricked with the needle through the rope placed around the trowel and out on the other side through the cable .
On the way back you wrap the splice depending on the length of 3 - 4 times to the existing Part.  At the end back through the rope out it goes back in the same way ( wrapped ) .
Thereby the end is not too thick, splice the stand again to the left or right through the dew, leave a small piece and cut .
Now there is a fixed eye spliced ​​to the existing breechrope .
In this way, all eyes and cringels (on sail)  can be made. This not only looks good, it is by working technically still correct !

   
 
 



Now the work is still dressed and ready is the breechrope on the trowel


   


The next step is to attach the eyebolt on breechrope .

Therefor the gun is fixed to the mounting board and fastened to the retaining ring bolt in the assembly position .

     
 


So it looks when the ring bolt is fastened . The glue ( white glue ) is wrapped with serving .




On the ship the ring bolts will installed for the guntackle and tackle .

   
 
The second part - guntackle and takle fastening follow soon .


Until then, good luck with your projects